(Topic ID: 192072)

Attack From Mars Remake (AFMr) Owners Club


By Pin_Guy

2 years ago



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  • 7,561 posts
  • 479 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 hour ago by Fizz
  • Topic is favorited by 226 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

26 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20

Post #1 PinGuy's links to unboxing and SOL potential issue. Posted by Pin_Guy (2 years ago)

Post #5 SOL protector issue Posted by Pin_Guy (2 years ago)

Post #73 LED info Posted by stpcore (2 years ago)

Post #145 Cliffy install info Posted by evh347 (2 years ago)

Post #149 Firmware 1.0.0 Posted by Pin_Guy (2 years ago)

Post #189 info on using AFM cliffys Posted by GorillaBiscuits (2 years ago)

Post #357 Topper connector issue Posted by LTG (2 years ago)

Post #366 Image of Cliffy addition to scoop. Posted by sparechange1974 (2 years ago)

Post #368 Cliffy install info Posted by sparechange1974 (2 years ago)

Post #494 LCD screen info Posted by spazzman90 (2 years ago)

Post #639 workaround - to drooping shield targets Posted by markp99 (2 years ago)

Post #1966 Info on Easter eggs Posted by bigd1979 (1 year ago)

Post #2062 cliffy saucer install. Posted by PDFVT (1 year ago)

Post #2201 Urgent attention to flipper strength rates message from CGC Posted by NeilMcRae (1 year ago)

Post #2952 speaker lights for AFMR classic Posted by Lermods (1 year ago)

Post #3001 SOL PIC Posted by Damien (1 year ago)

Post #3167 Picture of crazed plastics defect on AfMr Posted by Onwallst (1 year ago)

Post #3174 list of issues Posted by Onwallst (1 year ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#7105 3 months ago

Hey all. Hoping to join the club soon with a NIB classic.

Apologies if this is elsewhere, but I did a quick search and couldn't find it.

Do the protectors for an original AFM work for the AFMr as well? And if so, which ones are preferred?

#7128 3 months ago
Quoted from dugmar:

I installed Cliffy's on my AFMr SE on the Stroke of Luck hole. The ball would not launch properly after install. I removed them and all is good again. I stupidly left the factory protector in the game however. So I may give it another go. YMMV

Excellent. Thanks for the feedback. I purchased a set of Cliffys made specifically for the remake. I'm ordering a Classic, so I don't believe that it will have the CGC mantis style ones already installed. Even if it did, I planned to remove them for Cliffys.

#7130 3 months ago

The plan is to have mine on play for a show (SFGE) in Atlanta. Would you have any concerns about leaving it as stock? I've purchased the Cliffys but can return if I'm being overly cautious.

#7131 3 months ago

Also, for those that have installed Cliffys. What is the issue with the posts? Are they really that difficult to remove? I was planning to install them before a show, but how much time should I target for the installation?

#7133 3 months ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

I wouldn't say it's the easiest install of protectors, but it's not terrible. You have to take a bunch of stuff apart to get to the space ship ball holes and Target bank.
For me, the toughest one was the SOL hole. The back part of it is still not flush, and I have to eventually take it apart and try to get it level with the pf to avoid balls getting stuck there.
Just take your time, take photos, and it should go smoothly.
Also, make sure to ask Cliffy about the ball lock Cliffy. Him and I worked on that one together, and it saved my game from massive chipping.

Thanks for the feedback. Do you have a photo of yours where it is not flush? Also, I ordered the full set of Cliffys including the lock, shooter eject, and drain.

#7135 3 months ago

Awesome, thanks for the advice!

For any of the CE owners, does it come with leg protectors stock?

#7137 3 months ago
Quoted from Only_Pinball:

Yes. All the remakes do in each trim line.

Awesome, thanks for the quick reply! Sorry to bombard with questions, just have to make a few orders for another pinball that I'm restoring and figured I'd add to it if needed.

#7147 3 months ago

Do the Bally/Williams pinball side mirrors work on an AFMr CE? I have some that I was going to install on a T2 but sold that long ago.

#7149 3 months ago

Does the DMD color upgrade on the CE also allow the main saucer to have red, blue, and green lights instead of just red?

#7154 3 months ago

Lol. This is why I'm asking. I've seen on some threads that people have mentioned that it does change the main saucer led output. I have not been able to find any videos or images to confirm.

I'm getting the color upgrade, and was even more excited if it changed these as well.

#7158 3 months ago
Quoted from Fizz:

I promise you... If you have the color chip, you can set the main saucer LEDs to "interactive" and it uses all the colors.
Also, this is not just something that some people (like myself) have reported. It's in the manual.

Excellent! I'm not picking my game up until next weekend (color upgrade included). This is very exciting.

1 week later
#7205 3 months ago

Just received my AFMr CE. Awesome game and am having a ton of fun playing it.

Quick question, are the flippers designed to feel a bit weaker? I have mine set at the default setting, but they feel very weak. A controlled shot will make the ramps, saucer, etc., but it is not zooming by any means. For instance, a controlled shot to the saucer will "roll into" the hole. It's not like I'd ever be worried about any damage there. I've turned the power level up to +1 on the flippers, but it didn't seem to make a ton of difference. Just curious if I'm over-analyzing this.

#7208 3 months ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Do you have the SOL 2 solenoid board chip installed?

I can look when I get home. Is this an aftermarket chip, or something from CGC that should be pre-installed, or...?

#7210 3 months ago

I have the SOL V2.0 chip it appears.

8A815BEE-1416-4739-A2CD-CEF36346E821 (resized).jpeg
#7213 3 months ago

What setting do most use?

#7218 88 days ago
Quoted from dugmar:

Just installed color chip. Confirmed main saucer changes colors now.

So... weird situation. I’m waiting on my color chip to arrive, but my main ship is already “interactive” and changing colors. I actually can’t set it to just a single color.

#7233 82 days ago
Quoted from nvu4prod:

I ordered the green protectors from Pinbits. Think the green fit the game nicely! They kind of glow with the game off as well![quoted image][quoted image]

I ordered those as well (from Pinbits) and went to install this past weekend. How were you able to install and still place the screws/nuts back on? The protectors were so thick that I was barely able to get a thread to turn on, and in some places the screws weren't long enough to reinstall. I would love to have these on, but don't see how it is possible.

#7236 82 days ago
Quoted from pghpinfan:

Had the same problem with the ones I ordered from Mezel Mods. Ending up returning them

Thanks for the comment. Curious how others have actually installed these? I've seen them on several machines, but without ordering longer posts/screws as well, I don't see how it is possible.

#7241 81 days ago
Quoted from wolftownjeff:

Pinball life sells longer (taller) post.

Thanks all. I've ordered taller posts from Pinballlife as well as some low-profile nuts per the links below. I just wasn't sure if people were somehow able to accomplish this without these replacement parts.

https://www.pinballlife.com/machine-poststud-530-5008-00.html
ebay.com link » Team Associated 8 32 Steel Low Profile Locknut 6 Asc6953

#7245 76 days ago

Does anyone know where I can find a left saucer plastic (image attached) available for purchase? I like to have replacements on hand if ever needed, but can only find the right one.

Left Saucer Plastic (resized).jpg
#7247 76 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

You'll probably have to buy the whole set.
LTG : )

Dang. That stinks. Not really into dropping ~$130 for backups. Thanks though for the advice, LTG.

#7255 75 days ago

Dirty pool is such an exciting bonus. I also like trying to have a ball trapped behind the shield (ready for dirty pool) when in Martian Attack or Total Annihilation. Then I try to avoid getting dirty pool.

Also, pay attention to your Martian Bombs when the martians are attacking. This is a good opportunity to go for the saucer (if you have enough bombs for the remaining martians) and if the ball is draining, quickly hit the launch button to bomb the final martian(s) to go into Martian Attack multiball.

#7265 75 days ago
Quoted from Fizz:

Is this simply to hold one ball out of the way during multiball? Or is there something else to this?

Yep. Just trapping it behind the targets as opposed to on a flipper.

#7268 72 days ago

Hey CE owners. What are you doing with the blank area below the DMD? I'd like to put a Bally logo badge there, but can't find one that fits correctly. I tried the one from Bay Area Amusements, but it's too large. Any other thoughts?

#7282 69 days ago
Quoted from rjsoeps:

I need the apron instruction cards for
Afm remake.
Can someone help me obtain these.
File or high rez scan would be great.
Ofcourse a donation for someone who is willing to help me out
Thanks

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-ART-INSCARD

1 week later
#7302 62 days ago
Quoted from maffewl:

Thanks all. I've ordered taller posts from Pinballlife as well as some low-profile nuts per the links below. I just wasn't sure if people were somehow able to accomplish this without these replacement parts.
https://www.pinballlife.com/machine-poststud-530-5008-00.html
ebay.com link » Team Associated 8 32 Steel Low Profile Locknut 6 Asc6953

Update to my previous comment. Do not buy the stud posts listed in my previous post. They do not work. They are 6-32 at the base and 8-32 at the stud. The proper size for AFMr is 8-32 on both the base and stud.

I ended up purchasing these.
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Session_ID=50314b04c98246911dd9072bf3ec226b&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-02-4425-1

The stud is a little long for the needs of the plastic protectors, so I had to Dremel them down a bit to the proper size.

Also, there are a couple ball guides that hold the plastics as well. So while I was purchasing the posts, I purchased the following ball guides as well.
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Session_ID=50314b04c98246911dd9072bf3ec226b&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-04-10275
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Session_ID=50314b04c98246911dd9072bf3ec226b&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-04-102742

These come with welded bolts that hold the plastics on. So I took a Dremel to those as well to remove. I then installed a longer 8-32 bolt (and had a friend tack weld) that was the correct size for the protectors + plastics.

I get that I probably went above and beyond, but I now have plastic protectors with washers/nuts and the top of the bolt is flush with the nut in all cases. Pics below.

Just wanted to post for others that may be a perfectionist as well.
IMG_4149 (resized).JPEGIMG_4150 (resized).JPEGIMG_4151 (resized).JPEGIMG_4152 (resized).JPEGIMG_4154 (resized).JPEGIMG_4155 (resized).JPEGIMG_4156 (resized).JPEGIMG_4157 (resized).JPEGIMG_4158 (resized).JPEGIMG_4159 (resized).JPEG

#7304 61 days ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

So since your plastic protectors are thicker than the standard bolt that means your plastics are now elevated higher than normal. Does that in turn mean that your wireforms are now raised higher at the base, meaning your ball returns to your flippers are now slower?

I didn't change the bolt at the wireforms as it was plenty long. This question would pretty much apply to anyone who has installed protectors. That said, I played for about an hour last night and if there is a difference, I didn't realize it.

That said, there's also usually a "rattle" of the ball when it comes to the inlane anyhow (was there prior to the plastics as well). I've tried doing a slow-motion video of the drop and it is dead center. The issue that I'm seeing is that due to the momentum of the ball coming down the wireform curves, it is unpredictable, and doesn't always drop straight leading to a rattle.

3 weeks later
#7308 37 days ago
Quoted from BMore-Pinball:

I have owned this machine for about 4 months. I can't seem to break much about 2 billion and have yet to get a high score.
Need some point scoring strategies

Watching Bowen's video helped me a ton (link below). I can consistently get around 5b, but 9b is my high. My typical strategy is to get by the first 2-3 saucers, then use multiball or martian attack to get by the next 3-5. Then look for total annihilation and whatever else is available. Though, saucers are my primary goal until I get to Attack Mars.

#7313 37 days ago
Quoted from BMore-Pinball:

I have owned this machine for about 4 months. I can't seem to break much about 2 billion and have yet to get a high score.
Need some point scoring strategies

This is also a good write-up.
https://papa.org/2009/12/tournament-approaches-attack-from-mars/

#7327 33 days ago

Anyone else's ball lock VUK occasionally lack the power to put the ball on the wireform? I've tried max settings, but it still about once a game doesn't have sufficient power. Should I weaken the coil spring, or has anyone else came up with a good solution?

#7332 33 days ago

Excellent. I'll try this. Thanks all!

#7341 30 days ago
Quoted from Halfwasted:

Looking at picking up a used LE.
Is there any questions I should be asking?
I saw something about a pic 2.0 chip? Is that a required fix? Or was it fixed after a certain build date?
Cheers,
Ted

Other than a new chip, there isn't a ton to look for other than just general wear and tear.

2 weeks later
#7387 13 days ago
Quoted from vireland:

Roll the ball on the habitrail and see if it rolls cleanly without any jitter or a bump. If you can feel a bump when rolling the ball manually, even a little one, grind that down. At high speeds that will launch the ball.
I'd also recommend recording it with a phone in slo-mo mode so you can see exactly where the ball has the problem and goes airborne. Slo-mo mode is very educational for problems like this.

+1 on the slow-motion phone video. I use this all the time to dial-in return in-lane drops.

#7407 12 days ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Oh crap...I guess ignorance is really bliss. I had no idea since I haven't had the need to change one. Where does Chicago expect us to get replacements then if niftyled isn't selling these? Does MBr also using these types of bulbs?

I've had to replace one, and they aren't cheap.

That said, if supply dries up for some reason (or you just don't want to buy them), I would think that the GI can always be replaced with standard sockets, cut the existing Molex connector off, and solder in the common socket. From what I can tell, there isn't anything special about these LEDs other than their connectors. They are standard faceted lens LEDs.

#7413 12 days ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Oh crap...I guess ignorance is really bliss. I had no idea since I haven't had the need to change one. Where does Chicago expect us to get replacements then if niftyled isn't selling these? Does MBr also using these types of bulbs?

Also, if you are just needing to buy replacements, you can get them from PlanetaryPinball. Link below.

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-LMP-GILEDWW

#7422 11 days ago

CE's provide the exact same game-play as all other models. The topper is quite awesome and adds to this experience, but it is definitely not the "only right answer". If he is most interested in the pinball aspects of the game, and the added money for bells and whistles don't appeal to him, CE is the way to go.

#7446 9 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

- Pinbits green plastic protectors (I have thin lock nuts coming - not sure what else I will need to make these work)

See my post #7302 at the link below:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/attack-from-mars-remake-afmr-owners-club/page/147#post-5145994

Thin nuts can work, but there will still be very little thread to "grab". There are plenty on here that have done it and do not seem to have issues. So, what I did was likely overboard, but it gives me peace of mind to know that the entire nut is on the threads. Just posting so that you are aware what will need to be changed if you want it similar.

Welcome to the club!

#7493 7 days ago

Does anyone else have a slight bounce from lane guide to flipper? I've tried both lining up according to the holes in the playfield (my preferred method), and lane guides. It's much smoother, but still has a slight bounce when there's a slow roller. Maybe thicker flipper rubber would work?

#7496 6 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

So, after playing several games of my new AFMr LE (which I love), I just happened to notice that I have a set of plastics with the crackling artwork. I submitted a ticket and received a prompt reply that cosmetic issues are only warrantied to the original owner within two weeks of purchase (which has obviously lapsed) and that I would need to buy a replacement set from Planetary Pinball. I found the set here: http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-31-2535-COMP for $139 plus shipping, but had some questions from those of you who had to do the same.
Are these plastics truly OEM or are they remakes? The tiny picture doesn't do the coloring justice and there is no other info on the site about them. I'm bummed a little at having to spend the money if I want perfect condition ones (the ball returns are really the only 2 that are bugging me), but I want to make sure that I'm getting OEM quality and coloring.[quoted image]

If you end up purchasing, I'd buy the saucer plastics (left and right of the scoop) from you if you don't need them.

1 week later
#7558 1 hour ago

"Eat at Eddy's" seems strange with it being an office looking building. I'd lean towards "Eddy's Inc.", "Eddy's Wood Co.", or "Eddy's Supply".

Just my .02.

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