(Topic ID: 192072)

Attack From Mars Remake (AFMr) Owners Club

By Pin_Guy

6 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

26 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #1 PinGuy's links to unboxing and SOL potential issue. Posted by Pin_Guy (6 years ago)

Post #5 SOL protector issue Posted by Pin_Guy (6 years ago)

Post #73 LED info Posted by stpcore (6 years ago)

Post #145 Cliffy install info Posted by evh347 (6 years ago)

Post #149 Firmware 1.0.0 Posted by Pin_Guy (6 years ago)

Post #189 info on using AFM cliffys Posted by GorillaBiscuits (6 years ago)

Post #357 Topper connector issue Posted by LTG (6 years ago)

Post #366 Image of Cliffy addition to scoop. Posted by sparechange1974 (6 years ago)

Post #368 Cliffy install info Posted by sparechange1974 (6 years ago)


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#868 6 years ago

Picked up an se from cointaker at the York show....the modding has begun.

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#895 6 years ago

How difficult was it to remove the side rails? If they do it the old way, it’s held down with tape and I’m a little concerned about damaging the cabinet decals. Stern games are so much easier to remove the rail, they are screwdriver in.

#899 6 years ago

The le doesn’t come with pc on the hinges? You just get legs and rails?

1 week later
#941 6 years ago

The sound on the AFMr is so much better than the sound on MMr.

1 week later
#1024 6 years ago
Quoted from whthrs166:

Here is my video on both the interactive cabinet lighting (that coinsides with the game play) and the interactive saucer lighting (that coinsides with the topper lighting. » YouTube video

I’m confused on the interactive cabinet lighting. It looks the undercab lighting is static, always on and just changing when the speaker lights change. It would be better to tie your undercab lights to the topper lights, that would really be interactive.

#1029 6 years ago
Quoted from whthrs166:

When you play the game you see that the lighting for the speakers coinsides with modes in the game. You cant get anymore interactive that! The topper just flashes randomly. There is nothing static about the cabinet lighting.

You can get more interactive, you can tap off the flashers circuit via the board. You basically need the equivalent of a piggyback/splitter. My guess is what you did to tap off the speaker rgb, you could do the same for the flashers in the game. What you’ve done is nice, not trying to be critical, just noting another possible way.

#1041 6 years ago
Quoted from whthrs166:

. If you tap into the flasher circuits all you are going to get is more flashing lights. You can call that more interactivity if you like it’s just not so in my book. Interactivity is the software controlling the lights this is clearly evident when colors of the lights coinside with game modes.

I’ll try to hook it up your way and see if i like it. I don’t like having the lights on all the time, but maybe it will be ok.

1 week later
#1086 6 years ago

With the help of whthrs166 we have put together an rgb undercabinet light kit that is tied to the speaker lights in the se and le models (sorry standard owners). The lights are plug and play and interact with the game in the same manner that the speaker lights do.

For those that want to make their own, whthrs166 provided a write up with pics earlier in this thread. You will need:
-Male and female 4-pin .062 molex connectors and the male and female pins. If you've never worked with the pins, buy many extras as you'll need them for practice. GPE has them.
-Crimping tool
-12v rgd led strip (we are providing 4 feet with our mod)
-The ability to solder in somewhat tight spaces.
-22g wire

You simply unplug the 4 pin connector at the speaker and plug in a y splitter that you make. Run the strip through the hole covered by the mesh in the back of the cabinet. Affix the strip to the bottom of the cabinet. If you want to make it on your own, pm me and I'll be happy to answer any questions.

For those that don't want to make it, we are offering it at $75 shipped. Because this was whthsrs166 initial idea, we are going to kick back some funds to him on each sale as he is not interested in making it as a mod to sell.

There are other kits out there that tie to the games flashers and they look great too, this is just another option. A benefit to this hook up is that there is basically always light on under the cabinet so you get a constant glow plus an interactive feature.

We will have this mod listed on our website at lermods.com and in our pinside shop. You can also just pm me if you want one.

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#1096 6 years ago
Quoted from whthrs166:

Tapping into the topper connections can also be done with the Lermods kit. The topper connection (4 pin square .062 and is the same as the speaker LEDs with the same wire colors and positions) will give you more flashing and still have interactivity of the game. I used the topper connections for my Saucer mod. The topper connection has two sides. Either side will light the under cabinet LEDs.

Also, for you standard guys, the undercab will work too, it’s just a different connection to make so let me know which model you have if you want one.

Edit: with the same connection, it can also run in sync with the topper

2 weeks later
#1296 6 years ago
Quoted from GreenMarine:

Hey Fellas. About to place an order for this beautiful game. Heard some talk about Cliffys because of some problem areas with the old machine. Does everyone recommend Cliffys for this remake?

The stroke of luck hole has a mantis type protector already installed.

1 week later
#1399 6 years ago

My game came from the factory with a mantis type protector in the sol hole. Is more protection there really needed?

#1444 6 years ago

Sorry for the spam, it's been a few pages and more people are getting their games. We have undercabinet lights that light off the speaker lights or the topper and are interactive, plug and play. It's available in our pinside shop or on our website.

https://lermods.com/products/attack-from-mars-remake-pinball-led-strip-undercabinet-light-kit

#1585 6 years ago

Grab it with vice grips and twist it out.

Quoted from GreenMarine:Trying to install Cliffys and this little bugger won't come out. Do I bang or unscrew it out?

#1632 6 years ago

I got my game is September, not a single issue.

1 week later
#1932 6 years ago

Check your interlock switch at the coin door.

Quoted from pocketscience:Trough eject, auto plunger and a bunch of other solenoids not firing. All on the red-brn line. Connections seem fine though all the way back to board. Grr. Fuses all look fine too... Thoughts?

#1963 6 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Don't forget the launch button is used during video mode(kills everything on screen) and also Martian bombs.....

Awesome, didn’t know that, thx!

2 weeks later
#2451 6 years ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

its only causing issues to those in the second batch, first batch was problem free from what I can see.

I took delivery in late September and have had zero issues, not sure if that considered first batch. no flipper or ball launch issues, super skill shot works every time. Game is perfect. I sympathize with those having issues.

#2525 6 years ago
Quoted from Miknan:

Not trying to complain when asking about lock bar, just not sure how to fix it and looking for advice. I've had a few pins and never had this problem. Honestly, still not sure how to fix it as those brass screws loose and the silver latch part too low. I found if I reach inside and push it up it will catch. Also needed a new chip to make the topper even work. Hardly whining. People bash on Stern but my NIB MET had zero problem out of the box and I guess I expected the same. This has been more like the JD I bought.

Tighten or loosen the brass screws to adjust how the lock bar closes. It's a very simple adjustment. I had an issue with this on my dialed in.

1 week later
#2670 6 years ago

I’m not sure what’s going on with these cabinets, It’s woodworking 101. Not sure what kind of a joint they use, should be tongue and groove, which if done correctly, nailed and glued, is very strong and stable. Sounds like they may have starved the joint of glue. Both sides of the joining surfaces need to have glue on them. If done right, the glue becomes stronger than the wood.

Not to worry, it’s a simple and cheap fix. For those with an issue, I’d suggest using yellow gorilla glue or titebond 2 glue (available at local hardware store) and use a bar clamp to bring the wood back together. Protect the decals from the clamp with a towel or something else. Not too tight on the clamp, just enough to bring it back in, you don’t want to squeeze all the glue out. You could also use a band clamp around the entire cabinet to bring it back together. Let the clamp stay on for 24 hours, should be fine after that.

#2673 6 years ago
Quoted from bitpatrol:

I"m not doing that to my new $10,000 machine This should have been done, and is the responsibility of the manufacturer if not done correctly. I'll check mine in the next couple of days when I have time ( doing this for funzies ) but man, this could be a problem if they are splitting and my decals are already damaged. This is 101 woodworking for sure. If the joints were starved of glue, it will never be possible to get the same glue surface area coverage as would be possible if done before assembling the pieces.

I’m not saying it’s good or that you should have to do it given what you paid, but these are pinball machines, not cars you just bring back to the dealer. I do sympathize with you. I merely presented a simple fix. If your decals are damaged, that’s a different issue, but if it’s just the joint opening, it’s pretty minor and what I stated will fix it forever. You’ll be able to get enough glue in the joint to fix it, use a small artist brush to force the glue in the joint. You can spend 5 mins and $10 fixing it this way or go through the aggravation of getting Cgc to do something. Life is short, I like simplicity. That said, it is good to document it with cgc so others don’t experience it.

#2683 6 years ago
Quoted from Miknan:

I filled out a ticket with CGC but I don't know what they could possibly do but since others are having the same problem I think they should know. I plan on going to the store and buy that Titan brand wood glue recommended by others on here. I'll get a syringe to help get it in the split better. I might know someone who has ratchet straps to try and pull and hold the cabinet together while it dries but if I can't get that I'm not sure how'll I do this part. I don't really own any vice type tools or such. The decal itself is rough but if I fold it over and put some mylar over it that won't be that bad. My machine doesn't have to look 100%, it just can't be falling to pieces. Like I've said before, I love this game. It isn't going anywhere.

This is all you need

https://m.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-QUICK-GRIP-36-in-Clamp/50137694

Or this

https://m.harborfreight.com/1-inch-x-15-ft-ratcheting-band-clamp-66220.html?utm_referrer=direct%2Fnot%20provided

#2697 6 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

It's a SUPER TERRIBLE policy for CGC being a supposed "premium" vendor, and definitely asking a premium price. Both Stern and JJP will support second and third owners in the warranty period in a limited way (things like cabinet sticker nitpicks, no, broken boards and coils, yes, in my experience). Essentially the two year CGC LE warranty isn't worth the paper it's written on when you factor in the reality of the high end collector market where machines move sometimes in MONTHS, not years.
Anyway, I was told this PIC thing is more like a recall and they should cover it if I contact them directly instead of going to the distributor as is the usual policy (the policy I followed when I was denied). I'm a little less steamed, but only a little. This really bad warranty system will restrict their growth once more collectors get a taste of the wrong side of it. Made me a LOT less excited about anything CGC announces next, that's for sure.

I was denied by the distributor, citing CGC policy. However, I've now been told to contact CGC directly since this PIC thing is more like a recall and they'll handle it. I'll report back.

As a second owner of a hobbit, jjp did not cover a drop target board that went bad. I think I was toward the end of the warranty or just outside it. Stern covered a bad dmd a year out of warranty. In my experience, stern is the best on covering games.

#2705 6 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

JJP outside warranty, second owner with that part failure, I can see. The bad DMD was probably the batch that was known to have issues and was more like a silent recall, so that may be why you got that. Were you 2nd owner on the Stern, too?
I'm talking about 2nd and 3rd owner IN warranty, WELL within the CGC 2 year "warranty". No excuse compared to their peers.

Yes second owner with stern.

#2715 6 years ago
Quoted from Miknan:

I’m trying to do the underlighting like Wthrs and Lermods have given such great instructions for but I’m having trouble finding the right .062 4 pin square molex connectors they used. One used Marco and the other GLE but on their sites I can’t find them. Maybe I’m just blind.

Here:

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=03-06-2044

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=03-06-1044

If you’ve never worked with pins before, this is not the size to learn with. Pins this size are very small, making crimping more challenging.

Happy to help with questions, or you can get them on our site.

#2807 6 years ago
Quoted from DngrWillRobinson:

I dispute that claim. PVA glue, also know as yellow glue such as Titebond is incredibly strong, so much so that the glue is stronger than the wood itself. By that I mean, if the joint is subjected to stress the wood around the joint will break before the joint at the glue line. PVA glue has been around for quite some time and has a proven track record. Even if the glue used in the 80’s and 90’s was stronger it wouldn’t matter since PVA is already stronger than the wood so you don’t benefit from a stronger glue. Failures in cabinet joints comes from poor construction at the outset not poor glue. For example, if the joint didn’t get enough glue or there was insufficient clamping pressure or it is an ill-fitting joint to begin with.

I noted this in an earlier post. It looks like they are using a clear type of glue, not sure what it is, maybe something water based. Yellow glue is what should be used, like you say, it becomes stronger than the wood and if done right, no way a joint can pull apart under normal conditions.

1 week later
#2952 6 years ago
Quoted from plowpusher:

Has anyone installed a speaker light kit for the classic yet . I contacted Pinball Bulbs Co. and they didn't think theres would work on the remake . Might be a do it yourself project so just wondering if any of you guys have done it yet .

Our MMR version of speaker lights will fit afmr classic.

https://lermods.com/products/medieval-madness-remake-pinball-led-strip-rgb-speaker-light-kit

#3039 6 years ago

Got my chip today and installed it. I didn’t have any air balls on 1.0, but the flippers were very strong. On 2.0 default, flippers are noticeably softer, in a good way. I’ll play around with settings, but default feels good.

#3084 6 years ago

My playfield looks like glass, no lines whatsoever. my game has 38 total plays.

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#3183 6 years ago
Quoted from Mike_J:

Remember, if issues are not taken care of to your satisfaction, you can always go to your credit card company for assistance.
Always pay with AMEX.

Wow, I can’t think of an issue ever getting this far with an established company like Cgc, stern or jjp. Thought would never even cross my mind and would feel that something could always be worked out.

#3239 6 years ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Yep. It's also true that we all have different thresholds for how much BS we are willing to tolerate. Doesn't mean we aren't having fun...means we have standards. I appreciate folks who aren't shy about discussing quality issues, since it helps the entire community. fwiw, I was one of the first AFMr owners to push for shooter lane and solenoid board fixes with CGC/Doug.
I no longer own my AFMr...invested several weeks back in December iterating with CGC and didn't feel like waiting another 6 weeks for the recent chip update. In today's market, there are many other choices. Since the R&D for a "remake" is substantially less than developing a brand new game, it's unfortunate the electronics and build quality weren't more rock solid out of the gate. Took my 8k invested in AFMrLE and purchased a DILE with 20 plays for $7,750.
snaroff

I thought you had a lot of issues with your di too, or is this another di you got?

#3285 6 years ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Such a silly comment, when newbie's ask for advice on all aspects of pinball. How do I learn the rules? How to I fix this or that? What machine should I buy, this vs. that?
PF protectors result in a game that's less enjoyable to play. If you don't believe they negatively effect play, then I don't know what to tell you. Geez...I even hate the way some mylar effects gameplay. After removing the magnet mylar from my Dialed In, the magnet behavior is way more predictable. But don't let us more experienced pinballers super impose our "opinions"
Whatever,
snaroff

I have one from Germany on my mmr, no issues, plays great. It came included with the game, never thought to take it off. I like the idea of several years down the road taking it off and having a brand new pf underneath. It doesnt affect game play at all, at least not that I notice.

1 week later
#3632 6 years ago

I’m finding that damage hard to believe too. There should not be any black, there is nothing under the clear except the wood. Even if there was filler, it would not be black like that. Can you post a full pic of the pf with room lights on and game off. I’d like to see the rest of the game?

#3641 6 years ago
Quoted from cooked71:

That is putty. It’s under the clear. There is no chipping. There is no way the owner has done it himself. Looks like there was a fault in the ply that only became obvious after the shooter groove was cut - probably a black knot in the wood - that was filled with putty before it was cleared. Was deemed satisfactory by CGC, but given its location on the shooter lane shouldn’t have been. It is was an questionable QC decision is all - happens all the time. No big deal as long as GFG look after him.
I can’t beleive the vitriolic attack on the owner. The guy has a faulty pf. That’s it.

They use birch or maple plywood for playfields. No way a black knot like that got through, that’s like C or D grade plywood. Never seen that on either side of any Playfield. I don’t know what it is, but it isn’t a knot. Looks more like tar. Filler I see, but there too, no way that could pass QC. If it did, that is really bad. There’s no hate toward the poster, we or at least I just need more info to understand it. That would have been visible right out of the box.

#3711 6 years ago
Quoted from Onwallst:

Dialed in was not a good game when it come out based on code. Wow what they have done with it now. A great game. The theme isn’t my favorite but the programmers worked hard and listened to feedback. On MMR we gave benefit of doubt and just accepted it. Thinking the next game would be spot on. Like many are doing here. Do it right the first time.

Not sure what you mean. The code has actually changed very little on di and has had only one update, which was fairly minor. It’s one of the benefits of buying jjp, complete code at release.

For AFMr prospective owners, there are good stories out there. My game has been 100% perfect. No clear coat issues, no chipping, playfield colors are correct and I’ve had no launch issues. It’s been done very well. I ordered cliffys, but I don’t need them right now.

#3805 6 years ago

Why is the color variation an issue? Is it because it doesn’t match the original? For tspp, there are at least three versions of the playfield with the car on those playfields varying in color from pinkish to different shades of red. Mine is pinkish, which I consider most authentic relative to the show, but in terms of resale, it doesn’t seem to matter.

#3914 6 years ago
Quoted from Mike_J:

I have purchased through a couple of distributors.
However, which distributors do not take a credit card? All of the big guys do and they typically add around 3.5% to the price which is good with me.

If you've bought 18 nib games and paid an additional 3.5% on each one, that's quite a bit of insurance to take out. If you figure an average nib is $6k, you've paid almost $4k in cc fees, yet never had to make a claim.

I've bought many nib games too, never had an issue I could not work out. I do feel for those with bad afm playfields, however, and hope it gets resolve amicably. My afm is so nice I was eyeing an mbr, but may hold off now.

#4066 6 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

I have never purchased a perfect game from any manufacturer; even if the perfect game was manufactured and boxed up, by the time it reached its destination and is setup it is likely going to have some issue that popped up.

I’ve actually had very good luck with nib games. Twd prem, IMve, acdc premVE, SW pro and AFMr all arrived perfectly. Twd prem, needed slight adjustment to bg ramp with a cliffy, AFMr needed adjustment to kill switch at coin door, not much more really. Dialed in needed a lot of work by those standards as did hobbit. Either way, it’s all good, I like fixing games...most days.

#4097 6 years ago

Are the saucer decals on the backboard standard on all models? I have them on my se, but I've seen pics of the LE without them.

#4167 6 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Why don't we just compile a list of members with issues, and we'll give CGC the opportunity to address the issues:
1) Damien - Chipping after less than 100 plays
2) Onwallst - Planking pf
Feel free to add...

Please add serial numbers.

#4239 6 years ago

It's been pretty quiet lately on the pf issues. I'd take that to suggest cgc is addressing issues in the own way. I'll be looking at an mbr at tpf.

#4288 6 years ago

Cedar? No way, that’s a pretty soft wood. Ash, yes, they make baseball bats out of it. Something not right here.

#4338 6 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Could it be Birch?

Image source...Churchill Cabinet Co., courtesy of Pinball News November 2016.

Lower quality, but at least it’s a hardwood. It’s not furniture grade, something you use in areas that are not seen. Very stable. Suppose it would be acceptable for a pinball cabinet, not a playfield so much.

1 month later
#4829 5 years ago

New mod that we developed for AFMr. Two Backboard lights (purple and green shown) and trough light (white shown) tied to the GI so it dims with GI and goes out with the GI, including during strobe multiball.

It's available in our pinside shop and on our website for those who may be interested.

https://lermods.com/t/attack-from-mars-remake-pinball-machine-mods

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#4831 5 years ago

Installed a full set of cliffies today, took about 1.5-2 hours, quite a few things to remove for sol and mother ship. Shooter lane and Target bank took 5 minutes, Target motor does not need to be touched. Are people still using the mantis protector for the sol hole with the cliffies? No way mine will fit in as tight as it was wedged in there.

#4836 5 years ago
Quoted from atg1469:

I'm having a hard time deciphering where exactly I can find a set of mirror blades (or game blades in-general) for my AFM SE, does anyone know the best vendor to buy from?

Cointaker.

#4845 5 years ago
Quoted from pocketscience:

Installed my Pinstadium - it's amazing! I'd originally ordered it for my Black Rose but changed my mind. So as it shipped with the Bally power hookup I needed to find 12V of juicy DC for it to feed on. After a bit of poking and prodding the best spot seemed to be the 12V connector feeding the display (J108) which conveniently has 2 spares pins on its 4 pin connector already hooked up on the board to provide 12V and GND. See I snipped off the Bally connector and crimped a couple of pins then inserted them into the existing factory connector. See below - nice and clean and looks factory. Oh and it works as an added bonus..
I did have one "oh crap" moment when during my first game the machine tilted 3 times in seconds without any nudging. Turns out I'd hastily stuffed the manual back inside and it was pressing up against the tilt mech! (whew!)

Do they go out/dim with the game’s features, like strobe mb?

1 week later
#4888 5 years ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

I’m in the same boat SE v LE...if I get one.
Topper: don’t care
Mirror blades: like them but doesn’t matter, can easily add later.
Warranty: I ‘think’ I’m ok with the SE warranty. Have no idea what the issues have been that warrant having an extended warranty though.
Powder coating: could care less. I actually like the classic throwback stainless
LED mini saucers: this is actually the only thing I care about honestly in the LE, so is THIS worth the $1k extra?

Not to me, I went with se and love it.

1 week later
#4956 5 years ago
Quoted from JJHLH:

I bought them at TPF. Do you have some?

Do they dim and turn off with the GI?

1 month later
#5205 5 years ago
Quoted from Atrain:

I am going to be joining the AFMr club on June 12. Very excited. But I purchased a Special Edition, not an LE. I guess I want some comforting words that I didn't mess up the purchase by getting the SE. I love how it plays do I am confident that all will be good but I have some concern from the ratings only rating the LE and almost everyone seems to have an LE and not a classic or SE.

I have an SE and love it, no second thoughts. I'm not really into toppers and that's the main advantage.

I added some nice game lighting to the playfield and undercab lighting tied to the stock speaker lights and it looks and plays great.

2 months later
#5616 5 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Is Mezel Mods only place to get Eddie building? I thought they just resell mods from other sources?

Yes, they have a lot of their own original items, Eddy building being one of them. Great mod, installed mine last night, really well done.

#5618 5 years ago

SE is much better imo and worth the upgrade. Bigger and Colorized screen, better sound system, which is very good, better saucers, shaker, longer warranty. Hopefully you can get a great deal on a classic, if that's what you want.

I would have went LE, but didn't want a topper.

3 weeks later
#5750 5 years ago
Quoted from jkashani:

I just installed the Mezel Mods backboard illumination LED mod. When the game is powered on and off it always reverts back to the flashing LED mode no matter which I set it to. Has anyone had the same problem?

Contact them, you have a bad controller. The controller has no memory.

1 month later
#5919 5 years ago
Quoted from EasternBloc:

Just want to throw in my excellent experience with CGC support. I'm the second owner of an AfM Special and they've been absolutely super. Really wouldn't hesitate to buy another pin form them.

Same here, very good experience, under warranty. Very responsive, fast to ship the part (a board), and good follow up.

1 month later
#6038 5 years ago

Hi Everyone,

We are happy to announce that we are now a distributor for Pingraffix PowerBladez. We are starting with an inventory of the Attack from Mars remake version. We cannot provide a discount on the product, but we can help with shipping, offering an initial flat rate of $4.99 within the U.S.

These can be found on our website.

https://lermods.com/products/attack-from-mars-remake-powerbladez-by-pingraffix

#6046 5 years ago
Quoted from jkashani:

Is it easy enough to remove the mirror blades from and LE and put these on?

Yes it is. Mirror blades are held on with one or two screws and the hinge bolt. Wouldnt take more than 5 minutes per side to get them out.

#6062 5 years ago
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:

What type of mirror blades should I get for my SE? I'm ready for my first pinball mod as I really like the look of the mirror blades in the LE. If somebody could post a link to the exact type you purchased it would be most helpful. I can find Bally/Williams ones online but don't see any specific to Chicago Gaming remakes.
Also. After mirror blades are installed are they removable? I'd take them out of the machine to put in another down the road when I trade it out in a year or so if I could do it without them looking like garbage.
The second mod is going to be a pincup!
Hoping I can find a Black Friday deal on these as I am ordering tomorrow.
Thanks!

I have the ones from cointaker on mine. They are the same for any bw game, doesn’t matter if it’s a remake.

You can get regular pincups from pinball life or if you want a more custom cup, we have them.

https://lermods.com/products/attack-from-mars-remake-pinball-machine-pingulp-cupholder-b25b604a-00ca-4f7e-b631-b4e377fff0f9

#6086 5 years ago

it's very hard to see what's going on from your pics. If you line the hole up, where is it off? Is it at the glass channel where it is too high or is it hitting the back area? Are the blades touching the back area so you have no play at all? My blades came from cointaker and were a direct fit, no modification needed.

#6101 5 years ago
Quoted from pinballaddicted:

It is not just you and you are not missing anything. You do not have to remove the bolts to fit the mirrored blades. We have had a couple of sets like that, the hole in the blades is not in the correct position. Get another set from who ever you bought them from.

You DOhave to remove the hinge bolts on AFMr and any bw game. The bolt is what holds the mirror blade to the cabinet. The bolt also sits proud of the cabinet unlike a stern, which sits flush. You are correct that The mirror blades he has appear to be drilled incorrectly.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#6104 5 years ago

I have four sets of Pingraffix AFMr powebladez left. Pingraffix is sold out of them so if anyone is looking for them, we have them. $4.99 shipping.

https://lermods.com/products/attack-from-mars-remake-powerbladez-by-pingraffix

1 week later
#6154 5 years ago
Quoted from Budman:

Advice please. I am getting the Eat at Eddies mod and also want to brighten up the playfield . I would also like to light the SOL hole and outhole. Is Comet the best resource ? Is it easy to install? And would Pinstadium drown out that proposed lighting if I purchase that as well?
Thanks!

there are no sockets to hook mods to in the AFMr games only light boards so everything is molex connections of some sort. we offer a combo backboard and trough light setup. You can choose what colors you want to order. here is a pic of my game.

pf (resized).JPGpf (resized).JPG
2 weeks later
#6198 5 years ago

I have three sets of pingraffix powerbladez remaining if anyone wants a set. Pingraffix is out of stock.

https://lermods.com/products/attack-from-mars-remake-powerbladez-by-pingraffix

Happy holidays!

1 week later
#6254 5 years ago

I have two sets of new AFMr pingraffix powerbladez. We (and Pingraffix) sell these for $299, but to bring in the new year, I’m going to offer a temporary discount on them, priced at $279 + $5 shippping within the US. To get this deal, you must pay via PayPal gift (I save on fees, you save on price.). Pingraffix is out of stock. Contact me if you want a set.

#6260 5 years ago
Quoted from New_England:

Been on the fence, but I'll snag one. I know once they sell out I won't be finding another one.

Thx. 1 left.

1 month later
#6385 5 years ago
Quoted from New_England:

Got mine with 136 plays and $350 in mods for $6400. Just snagged a MMrS with 107 plays for $7,000

Great prices! Now you have money left over for more mods

2 weeks later
#6419 5 years ago
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:

Hi all, I just bought this topper. Any idea where I could connect this molex for this topper on my AFMR? Thank you.
[quoted image]

Nowhere in the remake, sorry those connections won’t work. Won’t work in the original either so wondering if it was made with some kind of power adaopter in mind. You could wire it straight to the power supply, assuming it’s 12v.

1 week later
#6481 5 years ago
Quoted from bigdaddy07:

I know on the LE there is a separate board the topper connects to. I'm not sure if that's what you would need here. Otherwise I'm thinking you would need to tap the GI or some aux power source somewhere.

There are no Molex connections for AFMr and I don’t think that IDC will work either, at least not under the playfield, unless you connect it to the GI connectors. Do you know if it’s a 5v mod? The fact that the connection you show has three wires, leads me to believe either the connector is designed for a specific connection to the boards in the backbox or its not designed for the remake.

2 months later
#6962 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinball-Wiz:

Got a quick question for those that own this game... is the side armor removeable without damaging the game? My old Bally/Williams had double stick tape on it, does this one also? Reason I'm asking is my friend is looking at one that has stainless armor and he wants green armor.

It's taped on, unfortunately.

1 month later
#7139 4 years ago

Plug and play

Quoted from dugmar:

Installing a shaker motor in my CE this weekend. It should be here today. Any idea if a software update is needed or is this just a PNP? Thanks.

#7148 4 years ago
Quoted from maffewl:

Do the Bally/Williams pinball side mirrors work on an AFMr CE? I have some that I was going to install on a T2 but sold that long ago.

yes, they should fit.

2 months later
#7355 4 years ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

I'm just about ready to torch the right hand scoop.
Has anyone got this consistently hitting the middle of the left flipper? I've tried about everything. (look at Bowen's tutorial video, the PAPA AFM is super consistent and that's what I want).
any ideas welcome. I've swapped the scoop out for a NOS one. changed the coil but its still inconsistent. I'm wondering if the game isn't storing enough power to make the coil fire at its fullest?
Neil.

Yes, 100% of the time. Add a piece of weatherstripping to the left side of the scoop.

1 week later
#7419 4 years ago
Quoted from pninja005:

Friend of mine wants to get the CE. Not for the price difference but to stay as close as possible to the original.
I recommend him to take the SE. Am I wrong?

Topper is the only reason to get an le. I’m not interested in the topper and went with the SE, which gives you the big screen, speaker lights and better playfield lighting. The CE is a stripped down game, but is the closest to the original.

3 weeks later
#7640 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Thanks for the link, as I didn't realize Mezel sold them. Quite honestly, these aren't fun to make (can't tell you how many times I've nearly punctured my fingers), but I wanted to make them available for those seeking to do their own mods.

I applaud people who can do it themselves (and for wanting to help others) and am always happy to help diyers if people ask. In fact, this is how we power some of our afmr mods. It just seemed odd to resell the harness when mezel already sells them and their harness was used as the guide by gogdog to make it originally.

By the way, those z connectors are now very hard to find as pancon has gone out of business. Either another company will have to buy the mold or we (the community) are going to have to make them. I may try to print them when I run out.

#7682 4 years ago
Quoted from RussMyers:

How did you do that?
Is there documentation?
Thanks,
RussM

Instructions are in the manual.

#7704 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I still need to design a mounting bracket for the LEDs, but overall the illuminated flipper buttons were a fairly simple mod. Of course I had to order all of the parts and make my own wiring harness to tap into the LED speaker connector, but everything went smoothly.[quoted image]

We’ve done under cab lights in similar fashion.

https://lermods.com/shop?olsPage=products%2Fattack-from-mars-remake-pinball-led-strip-undercabinet-light-kit

#7728 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

So, after evaluating everything, I'm offering my interactive illuminated flipper mod kit for $50 including US shipping. I will want a minimum of 5 commitments before I'm willing to take orders (I have to buy many of the items in bulk to make the kit). After the initial 5, I will need commitments in increments of 5 to fulfill subsequent orders. Please reply to this post if you are in, and if we hit at least 5 by the end of the weekend then payment will be required and I'll begin production.
Kit will include everything you need to illuminate both flipper buttons and will interact with the speaker lights:
- Power splitter to tap into speaker lighting
- Cabling from the backbox to the cabinet
- Splitter in cabinet to left & right extension cables
- 2x Extension cables
- 2x Interface to LED strips
- 2x LED strips (3 SMD each)
- 2x 3D printed LED strip adhesive mounts
- 2x Transparent flipper buttons with springs
I will also create step-by-step directions for installation. There will be no modification of the pin or its wiring required.[quoted image]

Can you show a pic of your connection at the speakers? We run our undercab lights through that connection, plug and play, and I just want to make sure there won’t be any compatibility issues so people don’t have to worry about it if they have our kit already (or have yours and want ours). If you made your connections like we made ours, anyone who buys your flipper buttons will not have to worry about compatibility with our undercab lights. And yes, the connection is the same for MBR. You must have an SE or an LE for these to work.

Our undercab and instructions can be found here:

https://lermods.com/shop?olsPage=products%2Fattack-from-mars-remake-pinball-led-strip-undercabinet-light-kit

#7733 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Okay, I’ve been getting lots of PMs and things are getting hectic (I never thought the mod would be so popular). So, I’m definitely going to do a first run. I think I’ll give everyone a chance to commit through Sunday, so I can order all the materials on Monday. I’ll be PMing everyone over the next couple of days to provide payment info.
After seeing the pics for MBr, my mod will also work for it. I’ve also had a question about working with MMR. Are there any MMR owners out there who can confirm that the connections are the same (pics would be great)?

Mmr does not have speaker lights that are stock with the game.

#7735 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Does it have any RGB line you can tap into?

No.

#7743 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Here you go. Pic of current splitter with potential add-on male lead to power both buttons & undercab, along with pic with everything tucked in place.
BTW, not only do I crimp my wire leads, but I also solder and test them to ensure 100% they work and will not fail.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I don't think you need to make that extra lead for undercab. Your connections will work fine with my undercab, no issues.

Quoted from Gogdog:

How long of LED strips do most people use for undercabinet lighting? 10SMD, or...20SMD+?
Huh...I would have thought comet pinball would have rgb led strips...but I can't find them there. Do we have to go to Ebay or something to find them?

We use 4 feet for undercab lighting and use the 5050, 2835 is too dim IMO.

#7751 4 years ago

Here’s a video of the undercab, could look nice with the buttons.

#7772 4 years ago
Quoted from zaki:

anyone have this and jurassic park? i was thinking of getting jp, but wondered how the depth of this is jp? i have 5 stern and i'm looking for something different. but i don't want to get something it's easy to see all modes and stuff. i was thinking this, mb, or mm.

all of the CGC games are well done. Unlike some stern games, they aren't impossible to get toward the end of the game and are a lot of fun trying. I have owned JP and it's a very good game, but it's very hard to compare it with the CGC games. In your collection, any of the CGC games will fit well. I have all three and love them all.

#7790 4 years ago
Quoted from JeffF:

Received the alternative artwork today... IMO it is absolutely perfect! So fitting for the playfield art![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks awesome. I’m going to get one at the Allentown show if they are there again.

1 month later
#8017 4 years ago
Quoted from Lethal_Inc:

Anybody know where to get an AFM key fob?

We have some, pm sent.

#8019 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I make double-sided AFM keychains: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/attack-from-mars-remake-afmr-owners-club/page/149#post-5234141
I also make the same type of keychains for any pin title - either my design or yours.

Isn’t that a copyright issue for pps?

2 weeks later
-1
#8120 4 years ago
Quoted from pacman11:

Alright should a buy a remake classic or a nice original? About same price.. Any thoughts?

Remakes are great, but aren't easily repairable. If you can find a nice example of an original, I'd grab it. I doike my SE a lot, but they are tough to work on and repair.

2 months later
#8351 4 years ago
Quoted from Pizzaman13:

Relatively new to the party and love my AfM Se.
Problem i was wondering if anyone had a similar situation and any suggestion on a fix. 10-20% of the time the ball comes down the right wire form toward the right flipper, the ball is traveling so fast and with so much force that it flies off the ramp and either into the drain or completely over the flippers to a middle drain.
It’s almost as if the wire ramp isn’t deep enough to keep the ball on the ramp.
Anyone else ever experienced this? Any suggested solution?

Try dialing down your flipper power a little.

1 month later
#8510 3 years ago
Quoted from PunishersLEMC:

Joined the club - drove over 8 hour round trip for this. So far all I can say is WOW.. can’t wait to spend some time on it, what a color show and the topper is out of this world.. I’ll have to read these posts only thing I noticed is glass rattle from the bass of this monster. Under 200 plays. AFMr LE #793
Custom cover shown below is on the way
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

looks awesome, love all the green and the topper.

2 months later
#8633 3 years ago
Quoted from PinLoAf:

I already know the answer from the group I’m posting in but here goes. I’m considering getting a MB LE or a AFM SE NIB. What should I get and why? I already own a MM SE mind you. I need some insight.
Thanks

I have both in SE model, I give the edge to AFM, but I never tire of either of them.

#8643 3 years ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

I have both AFMr and DI....why does the SIM card value deter you from DI? That is the goal of the pin....to beat modes to collect sim cards. I have SIM card carry over ON (default is off....where you lose uncollected sim cards on ball drain), which ON is what I believe is fair since there are SIM card hold rejects too often. Great pin.

On my game, making the SIM card shot was nearly impossible, seemed to go in only on deflections, not good since it’s the most important shot. It’s the same shot as hitting the camera in TZ, but they messed up the geometry on it.

1 month later
#8856 3 years ago
Quoted from Reefkeep:

So I purchased the SE model last week and have fallen in love with just about every part of it. Iv’e read most of the 176 pages of this forum but I’m still confused as to what is the best under cabinet lighting that actually interacts with the game?

Ours of course . It interacts with the speaker lights.

https://lermods.com/shop/ols/products/attack-from-mars-remake-pinball-led-strip-undercabinet-light-kit

1 week later
#8892 3 years ago
Quoted from hawkfanz:

Has anyone had any experience with the Cointaker Bally/Williams Remake mirror blades? Was about to install these but the OCD in me is having a hard time with how the holes just don't seem like they're cut in the right spot (too low) for this machine. Also, it's bolt doesn't have to be tightened over the mirror to support it does it? Hole seems much bigger and off center from what I was hoping for.
[quoted image]

I have them on my AFMr, mmr and had them on my mbR. I had no issues with fit. The bolt doesn’t support it, the screws in the lower portion of the blades do.

#8895 3 years ago
Quoted from hawkfanz:

Thanks. I saw in an earlier post your mirror blades fit perfectly (no gap) not like how mine would look installed. Where’d you buy yours?

Cointaker

1 week later
#8929 3 years ago

that won't work on the remake because there are no light sockets to hook into. You have to use IDC type connectors and plug into one of the boards. We offer a full kit that includes two separate backboard lights and a trough light. You pick the colors (including a UV option to highlight the UV paint effects on the playfield). I recommend purple and green for the back board and white for the trough, which is what I put on my game. These will turn off during strobe mb and interact with the GI lighting.

https://lermods.com/shop/ols/products/attack-from-mars-remake-pinball-led-strip-backboard-and-trough-light-combo-kit

1 week later
#8952 3 years ago
Quoted from PKingRoch:

Does anyone have a couple of pics of what the Lermods under cab lighting looks like? I've looked all over the web and I can't find a pic of what you are actually buying. Lots of pics of what it looks like after installed, but I'm looking for what the actual kit looks like.

Ask and you shall receive...pic shows the prototype from my own game. In production, we use red 3m mounting tape to adhere it. It's a roughly 4ft long led strip. Plugs directly into the speaker light connections, no modification needed.

PXL_20201006_182457064.NIGHT (resized).jpgPXL_20201006_182457064.NIGHT (resized).jpg

#8957 3 years ago
Quoted from JeffF:

RGB and ground... I'd say yep.

Quoted from PKingRoch:

That looks like 5050 Dumb LED strip. Am I missing something?

Yes, they tie into the speaker lights. Don’t need addressable for this purpose.

2 weeks later
#9043 3 years ago
Quoted from Navystan:

Question on mods:
1. Cliffy's or playfield protector? Or, both?
2. Eat at Eddy's, must mod?
3. Scoop light mod. Any particular vendor?
4. Anyone do Pinstadium? Over kill?
5. If I do Cliffy's, do I still need mylar at key spots?
6. Any other key mods you recommend?
7. External sub help? I haver Pinnovators 4 sub mixer, so I can easily connect up if it helps.
Thanks. I'm so glad to finally get an AFM. Now, I understand why it's a classic shooter.

The game doesn’t need much. We offer some accent lighting and undercab lights tied to the speaker lights. I have the mezel mods eat at eddys mod, love it. External sub with pinnovators sub hook up sounds awesome.

https://lermods.com/shop/ols/products/attack-from-mars-remake-pinball-led-strip-undercabinet-light-kit

6E24C74F-EAFB-4E37-B34A-744162D449D3 (resized).jpeg6E24C74F-EAFB-4E37-B34A-744162D449D3 (resized).jpegD8F6E44B-E607-485F-B89C-19B396654F38 (resized).jpegD8F6E44B-E607-485F-B89C-19B396654F38 (resized).jpeg
2 months later
#9197 3 years ago
Quoted from sizzler747:

Ok so I traced the 4 wires back and the red and black wire lead back to the left ramp J5 spot. The blue wire is wired into the saucer J14 spot, and the green wire is wired into the right ramp J12 spot. Should I unplug all of those wires from the board since I dont need them?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Whoever did that did some pretty bad work. I’d get that out of there fast. That’s a hack for sure.

#9204 3 years ago
Quoted from sizzler747:

So I took all of those wires out. The previous owner has also installed your led strip backboard and trough light combo kit. I want to make sure the previous owner has installed this properly after seeing the other modification hack was done. I tried to look up the instructions on your website but are not available. Is this hooked up properly?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Yes, that looks correct. Does it light up?

4 months later
#9425 2 years ago

How durable do you think a 3D printed target will be, even with 100% infill? That target takes a beating. I’ve yet to see anything 3d printed that can withstand a steel ball whacking it repeatedly. Probably needs to be made in molded plastic for durability.

9 months later
#9915 2 years ago
Quoted from Heavyk:

Just got around to installing some of my cliffy protectors. I have a question about the ball drain. It is a compression fit, but the trough comes right up to the edge. Am I supposed to drop the trough and put on the cliffy with compression and then put the trough back basically flattening out the metal of the cliffy protector on the bottom side where the compression is being done?

Yes, that’s how it’s installed. Loosen screws holding trough in, slide cliffy into place, tighten it up.

1 year later
#10252 1 year ago
Quoted from Medic:

Hello, I have pinstadium and wanted to add UV through light as well. Do you know anyone that sells a kit? If not, from my understanding I need a 6.3v uv light strip from comet and the adapter from mezel to connect the light to the game’s GI bulb? Thanks

I just responded to a similar request in the mbR thread. I have UV strips and can wire up our trough light using them. A few customers have also done their backboard lights with the uv strips. You can diy or we have a ready made plug and play solution.

The link takes you to a combo product. If you just want trough, we can do that too. Send me a pm.

https://lermods.com/products/attack-from-mars-remake-pinball-led-strip-backboard-and-trough-light-combo-kit

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