Attack From Mars Remake (AFMr) Owners Club

(Topic ID: 192072)

Attack From Mars Remake (AFMr) Owners Club

By Pin_Guy

1 year ago

Topic Stats

  • 6,530 posts
  • 430 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 15 hours ago by Davedigger
  • Topic is favorited by 210 Pinsiders


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Topic index (key posts)

26 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20

Post #1 PinGuy's links to unboxing and SOL potential issue. Posted by Pin_Guy (1 year ago)

Post #5 SOL protector issue Posted by Pin_Guy (1 year ago)

Post #73 LED info Posted by stpcore (1 year ago)

Post #145 Cliffy install info Posted by evh347 (1 year ago)

Post #149 Firmware 1.0.0 Posted by Pin_Guy (1 year ago)

Post #189 info on using AFM cliffys Posted by GorillaBiscuits (1 year ago)

Post #357 Topper connector issue Posted by LTG (1 year ago)

Post #366 Image of Cliffy addition to scoop. Posted by sparechange1974 (1 year ago)

Post #368 Cliffy install info Posted by sparechange1974 (1 year ago)

Post #494 LCD screen info Posted by spazzman90 (1 year ago)

Post #639 workaround - to drooping shield targets Posted by markp99 (1 year ago)

Post #1966 Info on Easter eggs Posted by bigd1979 (1 year ago)

Post #2062 cliffy saucer install. Posted by PDFVT (1 year ago)

Post #2201 Urgent attention to flipper strength rates message from CGC Posted by NeilMcRae (1 year ago)

Post #2952 speaker lights for AFMR classic Posted by Lermods (1 year ago)

Post #3001 SOL PIC Posted by Damien (1 year ago)

Post #3167 Picture of crazed plastics defect on AfMr Posted by Onwallst (1 year ago)

Post #3174 list of issues Posted by Onwallst (1 year ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#1739 1 year ago

My standard came today......

#1741 1 year ago

Does anyone make a martian thats soft rubber....... As much as I love my new AFMr standard my original martian were the bomb

#1787 1 year ago

I am working on a theory and a fix for the shooter problem besides making a new bracket

I was closely looking and old Bally parts and comparing them to new

This was a design issue I a long time ago. I trying to make a fix now with a plastic printed sleeve on the plunger

When the plunger is in rest position it only sits 24.5 mm in the sleeve

When like this is has 3-4 mm play at the tip compared to 1 mm play when in.

My threory is this is what’s giving the shooter inconsistency

I will let ya know

#1791 1 year ago
Quoted from whthrs166:

Does your plunger sit in the middle of the ball? If not how far off is it vertically?

It sits center but vertical no. Matched it with shooter from my old AFM. It’s the same. I’m keeping it on as it definitely takes the play out.

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#1802 1 year ago
Quoted from whthrs166:

My machine will do this every ball when the launch solenoid is set to default now. If I try to adjust it stronger, it will not even make it to the top of the pf without hitting the wire ramp (even after the shimming) every ball let alone the skill shot. This will be the case until we can find a way to get the launch solenoid plunger to hit the middle of the ball. (like it should)

Been working on this for hours with zero headway. made every adjustment/ readjusted all wireforms and guides , sleeve/ no sleeve, rubber tip / no tip I just cant get the bounce out consistently. One minute it sux one minute its fine. FK!!!!! My MMR has zero issues with this.

#1803 1 year ago

Its gotta be software......... I put on default and it works great.

#1818 1 year ago

Mine is straight also. Would love to be able to launch the ball around instead of a slow cruise.

Gotta be away to achieve this. The ball rattles around going up the shooter then whacks the big guide rail on the top left.

My OEM from 1995 looks identical to whats on my machine. Thats what so frustrating.

#1819 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

If convenient, please post 2 photos of your with the following orientation. Thanks!

Im starting to wonder if its a " different mill of the play-field where the mech sits. You can see its on a very slight angle.

Like it should be cut deeper or some thing.

#1822 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

That's why B/W redesigned it It was a poor design. The stars need to align for it to work 100%. This is why the high-end restorers make the big bucks when restoring pinball machines.
My GNR has a similar awful design. In GNR's case, the precise location of the switch can be problematic (triggering the plunger too soon or too late). That's yet another benefit of the redesign...they unified the switch, plunger, and bracket.

What did B/W do ? Ive never seen a different style.

#1823 1 year ago

Another thing I noticed after hours of working on this......... The two screws that hold the coil on need washers other wise the mushroom cap can graze the screws.

#1828 1 year ago

I have that old spare..... I may drill the welds and redo dropping it completely down by say 3-5 mm.

Also thinking of making another stainless ball guide with a V cut similar to a MM ramp to funnel and keep the ball riding the R side of the guide rail.

That could be the best mod as I may be able fire the ball at full speed then.

#1831 1 year ago

But the big question is.... how does it work at full speed.

Ticket also put in

#1847 1 year ago

Alright ....... riddle me this Batman. My new MMR has a totally different bracket , stikes the ball much worst than AFM and shoots it like a perfect rocket straight up. Wtf.

We need the ball to ride the right rail. That’s the issue I think

Totally different set up that’s sturdier

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#1850 1 year ago

Another observation....... ball can hit r side ramp ricotta tossing it left at the end of the ramp.

Here is. A pic

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#1854 1 year ago

Ok guys ....... Update. After looking at this problem all day I feel it’s two fold. One being the shooter housing and the second being the ramp not centered and hitting the rivets

I am not saying this is a fix for all machines but this is defiantly a problem on mine so please check.

As you seen in my previous pic the ramp is NOt centered in the shooter lane. It would hit the right river and divert the ball left enough to not make the loop 50% of the time and 25% of that was very slow

The only solution to this aspect of the problem is to move slide the ramp up 1/4 inch center and drill two fresh holes. No matter what CG come up with there is only this solution to this problem to stop it from hitting the rivets.

You will NOT see the holes ever and it’s been working 100% if the time for the past 3 hours

I used double sided tape to hold it in place and test for a few day but I am very confident it’s fixed. I will drill in place and attach after a few days.

I’m running max to get the speed.

I did a YouTube with 50 shooter lane shots in a row with zero rejects. I used a rubber band to hold the diverted open to make sure it makes the lube with nice speed

Here is the video

#1861 1 year ago

So is everyone’s shooter working 100% with the washers on the shooter ? Spoke with Doug today and they are looking into.

Since centering the shooter ramp I have had ZERO rejects on high.

If anyone is having this problem I would also just the position of that ramp.

#1863 1 year ago

Take a ball and with your hand just run it along each outer rail. If it touches a rivet especially the right one it’s off center.

I going to play for another day or two but I have not had even one reject since doing this just held with double sided tape.

#1870 1 year ago

Its really funny how touchy this simple action of a ball shooter is on this game.

I having trouble understanding why my ramp was off center if these are mass produced by template ..... or is this piece just drilled when installed.

All I can say is that....... everyone has great suggestions and like I said in my post , I was not sure everyones is like that.

Honestly it has been 100% dead on and fast since I did this with setting at MAX. Even if it comes back I feel that I should move it into its current position as there is no way around not having it hit the rivet if not centered.... thoughts ?

#1878 1 year ago

Spoke with Doug and he emailed me again that they are working big on a fix

With mine centered and moved up a 1/4 inch it’s still 100%.

I willleave as is mounted with double sided tape till I get an answer

#1879 1 year ago

Even looking at my ball balancing on the river ........ you van see the crest of the shooter lane and how the ramp is way off center from the point

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#1887 1 year ago

White superbands with green flipper rubber

#1938 1 year ago

Does anyone make a mini saucer kit like Bill Ung does for AFMr?

#1990 1 year ago

Get the stainless.

#1991 1 year ago

just got some LEDs for the Gi in for my standard. Only Nifty makes them and they do look great.

#2003 1 year ago

Just put my AFMr standard right next to my MMR standard

Installed some colored LEDs, full white super bands , colored flipper rubber , mirror glazed balls , cliff posts and protectors , shakers , colored pin cabs , flipper button protectors, and just waiting for pinball decals to reopen for target decals on both

Love the all original look as that’s what I grew up with.

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#2007 1 year ago

It just going to be a diverter adjustment. Loosen up and reposition

#2009 1 year ago
Quoted from iceman44:

Anybody know sling rubber size on AFMR? 2-1/2?


#2013 1 year ago
Quoted from DngrWillRobinson:

That sounds simple enough but if I adjust the diverter so it opens fully will that stop it from closing fully?

Adjust it in rest position so it just closes,

#2017 1 year ago
Quoted from DngrWillRobinson:

Ok, I’ll give that a try, thanks.

You will get it . Should be no problem .

#2025 1 year ago
Quoted from brittlewater:

Hi forum. I have an error message from the test report. Could someone please tell me how to troubleshoot this. The message is check left gate stuck closed. What is the left gate, where is it on the machine? Thanks you.

Id bet you guys are all having some issues with the ball launch.

If your holding the left flipper during launch and the ball does not make the loop or is tooooo slow and just goes into the pops , after a few times it will come on and stay on.

#2026 1 year ago
Quoted from abagwell:

It seems to be tuned to be way more difficult than it used to be. I've only seen an EB once and I couldn't hit it. I used to just sweep back and forth but it seems something always gets through with that strat, and I've never seen the mothership.

I got 28 last night with no extra ball. Ill look later should come down at 30 and mother ship at 40/50. You get 1 smart bomb.

#2035 1 year ago
Quoted from abagwell:

Ahhh I had no idea it gave you a smart bomb to start with, I thought you could only use one if you had earned it before the video mode. Thanks!

Had three originals so a have an idea of the rules.

None were as perfect as my remake and don’t let anyone tell ya different

Had to work out shooter lane issues on two of the three but none were as hard as this to tweek in

#2037 1 year ago

Only cliffs needed is the SOL hole and 3 bank target imo

#2039 1 year ago

A pp will not stop edge chipping. That’s were the main problem stems from. I can live with dimples

#2043 1 year ago
Quoted from thunderking50:

Eazy fix , new launch ramp with rivet more on the left side .
I took the 2 screws out and pushed the ramp to the right and taped it : now it works 100%

Doesn’t it though. Took me about 6 hours to figure out back and forth with the shooter hardware and ramp. I bet it flys now

#2119 1 year ago

Did you verify with a DMM. Easy enough to check

#2122 1 year ago

Try disconnecting the topper from the main board. See if it changes anything. Maybe the coil on the topper is shorted or something. ( I dont know but ya gotta start somewhere. )

#2126 1 year ago

Take your DMM and measure voltage at the cpu board.

#2127 1 year ago

I gonna say hes missing some kind of voltage from the switching P/Supply. Not much lit on his boards.

#2130 1 year ago
Quoted from BagAJellyDonuts:

Obviously, the connection to the translite is open but that shouldn't make a difference.
You referred to the topper not working, those better versed may be able to explain it better but one of the connectors has a block installed from the factory to "key" the connector. IOW, you either pull the blocker or cut one of the pins to make it fit.
I do not have the topper installed but maybe this picture may be a help.

If thats the case ...... uuuum, thats not good.

#2135 1 year ago
Quoted from TheMickster:

You really need to plug in everything as needed, the picture you showed was missing at least two connections as required....and/or you plugged them in wrong and the machine blew a fuse. There really should not be any problems if done correctly and as documented in the manual....
I understand that there are plenty of Nu-bees here buying these NIB pinball machines, but really, read the manuals.....Starting from the front, it has a wealth of necessary information.

What plugs are you looking at so he knows. I actually thought the one on the bottom left was but looking closer it is plugged in. Lets help the guy out.

#2138 1 year ago

Hes on his way home now and hes going to start by checking his voltages at the PS first.

#2143 1 year ago

I actually have my flipper strength set at 22 and it feels perfect. Hit an 8way combo last night. Man did that feel good

#2163 1 year ago

Talked to Doug at CG and they are planning on making a saucer kit in the near future.

#2171 1 year ago
Quoted from neverahighscore:

Upgraded to Titan rubber, fluorescent green plastic protectors, black flipper bats. Waiting for my Cliffy's!

Joe where did you get the plastic protectors from and do you have a nice pic of them in the dark .

THX Allen

#2212 1 year ago
Quoted from pintechev:

Yes; do not re-drill or move that ramp. It’s in the correct position. Good work on the bend.

Each game is based on how it was manufactured and they all have variance. Mine clearly was to not centered and to the left, you could see it with the naked eye and by where the rivet was striking the ball. Once centered .... EVERY launch and I mean every single one after the process fires the ball on the skill shot like a rocket and not like a lazy loop or misfire.

As I stated in the original post this may not be the case in all games. Two other pinsiders contacted me and did the exact procedure I gave in my response. Thats 3 for 3 in my book.

Pics are after reposition.

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#2215 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

When I completed RTU tonight, it awarded me 5 billion. The countries stayed lit, but the green objectives reset. I completed everything again except Martian Multiball, but I assume that after that it would've just been a matter of hitting the RTU scoop???
Can anyone shed some light. I finished RTU on ball 2, and had my third ball and two extra balls left. Blew two balls just trying to hit the RTU scoop!
Too bad, as they would have come in handy for getting to that second RTU!

Thats correct .... heres a video of the original for you.

#2222 1 year ago
Quoted from abagwell:

Ahhh thanks for the clarification on the RTU. As for the flipper strength, calling BS on CGC saying that it has no effect. There is a massive difference between default and -18, and if I set them to Min my flippers barely even move. Setting them back to default for now regardless though so my machine doesn't explode(that saucer destruction effect is super realistic!).

Mine also made a big difference and barley moved on minimum. Set back to default for now untill I hear further.

#2238 1 year ago

Ya know the funny thing...... I have NEVER had someone come and buy one of my HUO games that I bought NIB and say, wait a minute.

That PF has dimples knock off 500 dollars. If they did id tell them go pound it up their @$$.

#2249 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

My gut says there are 2 hardware, one software.
First, hardware. I suspect folks with flippers on steroids (any game requiring severely dialed down flippers of -15...-25 to be playable) may have a faulty power transformer. The transformer is driving the solenoid board too hard.
Second, the software used to dial down the flipper strength is flawed and leads to Solenoid Board failure. This is what CGC appears to be working on, however the fix isn't interesting in isolation (since folks shouldn't need to severely dial down the flippers for the game to be playable).
Both of these issues seem interrelated to me.

Crazy....... I have played about 100 games on mine with no issues on -22. ( Knock on wood ). I did put mine back on default per CG. Just cant understand why some do and some dont. Im SURE they will work it out.

#2257 1 year ago
Quoted from Who-Dey:

Sorry if this has already been asked and I’m sure that it has, but does CGC sell the topper to people separately that don’t have an LE? It would be a shame if they didn’t because the topper on this game is amazing.


#2262 1 year ago
Quoted from whthrs166:

If they were to sell the topper individually over the counter it would hose all of the LE owners. We buy and pay special prices for an LE game because we believe it is truly special. The topper makes the LE worth the extra cost and risk in investment. Selling the wide screen and the lighted speakers separately is a different matter because it is available with the SE. You have to be careful not to alienate your customer base!

Problem is...... any game with an LE name that has a run thats 1000 is not really that special in this market. History has show that on pinside. It may have the LE name, some very cool features and and wowing looks but the only thing that makes it special or different from the others is the topper and plaque. ( CGC said they would be selling the saucers as a kit so ya cant count that either )

Any pinsider here can add green or black powder coating. Its a great value when you throw in the long warranty, topper and added features if your into all that bling. I bought the standard because I like the look of the original and only wanted to add features that I wanted. For me saving the almost extra 1.5k was where I wanted to be price wise also.The display was a big one for me too. If the LE would have had a color display in the standard size I may have considered one.

That being said its the best value, highest quality constructed, and longest warranted pin on the market. GREAT LOOKING game no matter which version you choose.

#2275 1 year ago
Quoted from Who-Dey:

For people who have the standard games, it would kind of be like putting Z-28 emblems on a regular Camaro or something.

I in no way feel like that at all....... Its like taking the perfect game ( thats why they remade it ) and having someone else bling it out for me. Its all a matter of taste.

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#2323 1 year ago

Super conductors run at near absolute zero...... I also let my game get to room temp but Im really not sure it makes a difference on electronics

#2325 1 year ago
Quoted from Who-Dey:

Do you think extreme weather changes are hard on playfields?

I dont live at the N Pole

#2332 1 year ago
Quoted from Who-Dey:

I know but I'm talking about games being shipped and stuff like that. I mean if a game is in zero degree weather for a few days etc. Just seems to me like that could affect a playfield possibly. Maybe I'm wrong I don't know, that's why I'm asking?

I agree with ya to. Cold weather is hard on everything. Just stupid humor.

#2439 1 year ago
Quoted from mpnox:

Shooter lane ramp fix is awesome, except for the fact that my 2 screws are stripped from the factory!

Move up higher 1/4 inch. No one will ever know

#2469 1 year ago

I just put the SOL, mothership and drop bank cliffys on tonight

#2472 1 year ago
Quoted from jamjam:

It's best to leave them at default until they release a software fix

Yeah but its kinda catch 22. Hammer on your game or blow a board ( which is under warranty anyway )

#2522 1 year ago

Seriously....... theres a lot of viable complaints and then there a huge bunch of whiners. WTF..... I have never bought a game that played great right out of the box. I spend days, if not weeks tweaking in every aspect of the game. I cant believe were even bringing up stuff like.... had to adjust lock bar, my screws were loose, or my glass rattles with a shaker.

Most of us do like I do and thats why our games play perfect..... period!

#2533 1 year ago

Not me ........ all my new Sterns get changed over to the BW style. For me it’s worth the extra 100 bucks

#2538 1 year ago
Quoted from whthrs166:

Hadn't thought of that!

Stern parts just the original style. Old habits are hard to break

1 week later
#2737 1 year ago

Order a decal set and redecal...... Thats about the only way its gonna look perfect.

#2752 1 year ago
Quoted from extraballingtmc:

Anyone else getting ghosting leds when they complete some of the rtu inserts?

Is it really ghosting or just the LED a side of the unlit one. They are all surface mount so Im sure its just the light extending from the other insert.

#2777 1 year ago
Quoted from DeeGor:

It seems like something happened over at CGC, and quality control went into the toilet with these recent builds. There is no way my machine should have left the line not being able to launch a ball smoothly. When I first got it, I was lucky enough to even get it into the pop bumpers, nevermind all the way around the orbit for a super skill shot.

Yeah it sux but to be honest I had two of my three original AFMs do this also. Its not a CGC thing.

#2781 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Curious...were your originals natural or restored? Any intimation that originals suffer from the same quality control problems is just off target. Hopefully you are talking about a very narrow CQ issue.
I've been playing my HEP AFM all week and can't believe how much better it plays than the AFMr I owned. Ball zips around the PF with amazing strength with 0 airballs or balls falling off wireforms. 7 years since HEP restored it...thousands of PF damage with minimal protection, no wireform breakage, feels much more solid in general. Most importantly, it *plays* much better...dramatic difference in flipper feel. The AFMr flippers felt awful to me...nothing like B/W flippers.
I don't begrudge remake advocates, but any notion that remakes are inherently better than originals because they are "newer" with modern tech haven't played a finely-tuned original.

Two routes and one HUO off the original owner. The HUO and one of the routed ones needed tweaking in

These are remakes so they are not going to reengineer parts. Same BW parts we are all use to

1 week later
#2968 1 year ago
Quoted from markp99:

Nope, nothing here either beyond April noting I was on her list...

When I talked to April last week they did not receive them yet.

#3046 1 year ago

Pic 2.0 installed from Automated today. Back to being better the restored original.

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#3049 1 year ago

Pic 2.0 installed from Automated today. Back to being better the restored original.

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#3059 1 year ago

Where are we seeing fading. Looks normal to me and planking is a common occurrence from all manufacturers.

2 weeks later
#4090 1 year ago

Does anyone have a scan of the original epilepsy sticker . I would like to print one out.

#4156 1 year ago

I have one of the very first standards that came out of CGC. The playfield is amazing and the game after tweaking in has been perfect. Not sure why some are having problems but all manufacturers experience issues with games.

#4158 1 year ago
Quoted from Mike_J:

Yep, it is always about the how the manufacturer handles those issues.
Thus far, CGC's response, or lack thereof, with the larger issues on AFMR is very poor.

Cant say........ they have always responded quickly in with any concerns Ive have on both my remakes and Doug even calls me personally after the fact to make sure everythings good. They have been 100% by me.

#4193 1 year ago

Still waiting to see a "list" with all these people with issues and what they are. I bought there 2 games in the standard edition and will be buying MB as soon as it comes out.

And im not talking about tunable things like the shooter lane or replacing plastics ..... real stuff that they are not handling

I have purchased about 25 NIB games and let me say they all have small issues. With patience and respect every game I had was taken care of except some slight PF crazing issues.

#4236 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

Your infinite wisdom comes to the rescue once again!
Tried with a rag, but was a little difficult to maneuver in that tight space. So got creative, and grabbed some hockey stick tape, Wrapped the top of the posts, got the vice grips, and with a little finessing, got them right out.
All Cliffys now installed, but seems the SOL once are ever so slightly raised. Are these supposed to be completely flush with the pf guys? I know some of the ones I've installed on my other games are up a little bit. Problem here is, I've had a couple of balls stop after bouncing around in the pop bumpers, and I have to nudge the machine a bit to get it to drop in the hole.

When putting these back in DO NOT tap down or overtighten or you will warp the Cliffy Damien.

#4257 1 year ago

Still waiting to see a list or speadsheet with all these wide spread major issues.

#4291 1 year ago

These playfield post almost make me laugh. I really think they will be taken care of descreatly.

People have really terrible short term memory when just a year ago the same shit was getting said about Stern

F them , won’t buy another game , they suck , let are dollars cast our vote

Stern did the same dam thing and never made a major recall publicly to replace playfields

Plus the warranty would not apply either on second owners in these cases

Unreal !!!

#4303 1 year ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Yes. Doug was great. Classic personal touch.
And before either negative poster asks: I live in idaho and have no connection with CGC. Just hate to see any business being beaten up for no reason.

There is a reason. It hurts others sales. Even if they only sold 50% of the LEs, thats 4 million bucks out of the current market cash.

Not including all the other models and MMR

#4305 1 year ago
Quoted from vireland:

Of course the black is the knot, but the scattered mess on top was ill-applied putty. It's pretty clear. Here, look again:

Do YOU want an AfMr LE with this shooter lane? How did it even get out of the factory?

Also...... here’s the weird shit with this pick. You mean to tell me that they screened they PF then added filler not only to the shooter but to the screening in the black ink line.

I think I call BS and the only way I would believe if someone came out and gave better pics of there intire game with these marks

#4309 1 year ago

Also ..... in that pic WTF is that wear mark in the grey from

#4328 1 year ago

I said it once and ill say it again........ I have owned three original AFMs , one of them being HUO which I sold for $$$$. AFMr plays identical to them hardware wise had the SAME problems and all games needed to be dialed in by me.

Anyone who says different is a does not know what the FK they are talking about.

I been doing pins for almost 20 years and quality is as good or better than than originals ( excluding the board set which time will tell but at least these beagle boards are cheap )

1 week later
#4600 1 year ago

I gonna say the delay is incorporating the new gameplay features on BBB.

Code was pretty much prototype stuff on it. Would be the perfect example of their statements. If true that would make the second remakes a better game then the originals or first remakes by Gene,

Come on fellows..... lets start dumping those 20k BBBs .

1 week later
#4694 1 year ago

Honestly I love the classic look .... new boards are like 50 bucks and I don’t need all that extra stuff. The warranty would be great for me as I keep my games a long time but I add mods as I like and save myself 1800 bucks.

3 weeks later
#4867 11 months ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

Hey guys; what are the street prices for NIB on the SE and LE versions? Is there a price difference between black or green trim? Thanks in advance.

I bought the standard for the classic look. Hardware has year warrenty and beagle boards are cheap

#4896 11 months ago

Different strokes for different folks. That’s the great thing about having three models

I wanted mine to look just like my original, hence I bought a classic addition.

Can’t go wrong with any of them

9 months later
#6364 47 days ago

My CE came with a manual too.

One thing it did NOT come with was two keys...... Only one of each.

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