Hey guys; what are the street prices for NIB on the SE and LE versions? Is there a price difference between black or green trim? Thanks in advance.
(Topic ID: 192072)
Linked Games
Attack From Mars (Remake - Classic)
Chicago Gaming Co., 2017-
Attack From Mars (Remake - LE)
Chicago Gaming Co., 2017
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Attack From Mars (Remake - Special)
Chicago Gaming Co., 2017
-
Freddy: A Nightmare On Elm Street
Gottlieb, 1994
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Just thinking out loud here. I have a few games on my radar, AFMr being one. Think it’s too similar to SMVE in a small lineup? And what’s the consensus of the SE version? Is the light show and missing extra saucers worth upgrading to LE? Not much of a topper guy even though it’s a bad ass topper.
Quoted from PtownPin:Topper
Mirrored blades
Warranty
Powder coating
LED in the Mini Saucers
Its actually worth the extra $1K if you can even find one
I’m in the same boat SE v LE...if I get one.
Topper: don’t care
Mirror blades: like them but doesn’t matter, can easily add later.
Warranty: I ‘think’ I’m ok with the SE warranty. Have no idea what the issues have been that warrant having an extended warranty though.
Powder coating: could care less. I actually like the classic throwback stainless
LED mini saucers: this is actually the only thing I care about honestly in the LE, so is THIS worth the $1k extra?
Even though I don’t care about the topper. I’m wondering if my kids will get a hoot out of it (5 year old). But is 5 minutes of his attention and laughter worth $1k lol. Usually is for us dads 
Question all. May have line in on a HUO black trim LE. Any opinions on a fair price? I know the guy so neither of us are trying to make bank off each other, just looking at fair market prices. Also, are there any glaring issues these remakes have that I need to look out for? Will buying this void the extended LE warranty?
3 weeks later
Hey all. In the club temporarily, and maybe permanently. Quick question: after 10 games I got a credit dot, "diverted stuck open" but diverter is fine, diverted works in test and game plays normally. Any ideas? Going to bed now so will have to check into it tomorrow night so thanks in advance.
Quoted from LTG:Page 1-57 and 1-58 in the manual. Helps you with this.
LTG : )
Thanks Lloyd. Just got the game home a couple hours ago so I'll check into it, don't even know if the manual is in the game LOL. That said; I decided to play one more game and the credit dot went away so I'll see how it goes next few days. Thanks!
1 week later
Quoted from JJHLH:Congratulations on the game. There should be a new PIC chip installed on the big board in the backbox labeled “AFM SOL V2.0”. It corrects a software bug that could potentially lead to a problem with the Solenoid Driver Board when the flipper coils were placed on a setting other than default. Better explained in Doug’s post below.
Right on thanks! Yea that’s what’s installed on mine.
Quoted from Zennmaster:Thinking about a couple of mods for LE #186, I'd love to hear what peoples' experience has been:
1) Invisiglass - Seems like a pretty nice upgrade.
2) Pingraffix Powerblades. I like the design, and feel like they really fit in with the existing artwork. The tough part is that the mirror blades in the LE are already pretty cool. What I'm not completely clear on is if the mirror blades need to be removed first, or if the Powerblades go on over the top (minus the bolt heads, of course). If the mirror blades are removed, are they a standard size and shape? If I pull the trigger, I may want to keep them around and install them into another game down the road.
Thanks!
1) regarding invisiglass. It is awesome and I get it for all my games. That said, when I downgraded to 1 pin a few years back I sold all but 2 sheets of my invisiglass. Up until yesterday I had 4 pins (just sold SMVE); I tested my invisiglass on all 4 of my machines and found that it effected AFMr-LE the least. Not sure what it is, maybe the lighting and/or layout but as much of a fan and advocate I am of invisiglass, it's not a must have for AFMr. I have my 2 pieces in IMDN and GOT and standard glass in the AFMr. That said, I will eventually get another sheet of invisiglass for AFMr, but I am in no way in a hurry to get it. Take that for what it's worth.
2) I personally prefer mirror blades over side art blades. It just makes the game pop mores than art blades. So my opinion on it is just keep the mirror blades in.
Quoted from delt31:man just got my highest score yet and played strobe MB - no lights at all. Nice. This is a fun game. It just feels great.
Yea, I never truly gave this game the respect it deserves til I got it in the home. I was very borderline on buying it because I just got IMDN PRO, but friend gave me a good price and I went with it. Glad I did! very fun and brutal pin 
Quoted from pinballinreno:Is there ever going to be a software update for the blink rate of the playfield inserts?
The game needs this. Its hard to determine what is left to hit for Total Annihilation as the binking inserts look solid it blinks so fast.
Interesting that you brought this up; ive had my AFMr-LE for 2 weeks now and was concerned about this same exact issue; I was going to bring it up but havent had time so now's better time than any to talk to other owners about their settings to resolve this.
After many many different settings adjustments i found the following best to help with this issue:
CGC Settings-
Incandescent Emulation: Medium
Backbox GI: Mirror pf GI
Backbox Brightness: -2
Playfield GI: MAX
Playfield LED: -3
Mini Saucers: Interactive
Speaker LED: Interactive
Big Saucer: Interactive
Game Adjustments:
A.1 25 Allow Dim Illum: YES (Default)
Curious to hear what others have setup to get it better but i found these settings best for me in being able to comprehend inserts and not be blinded either.
Quoted from abagwell:Odd, I've never had an issue distinguishing which of my TA shots are left to complete. Is it that difficult to see for others? Wondering if there are any differences between machines or something because mine are super easy to distinguish. AFMRLE for reference.
I don't think it's an issue. With my settings at least, it works good. But it was something I noticed when I first setup my pin. Keep in mind, I bought second hand so maybe I should restore settings and see how it looks. But all in all looks good now. Curious if others felt they had to make adjustments in the cgc settings. Oh I turned the Martian topper off, how annoying is that!?! Although, whenits set to light its pretty cool.
Try Different positions with that adjustment nut right there in the pic at the top of the slingshot.
3 weeks later
Quoted from Arcade:Finally had it with the droopy factory set flippers. We did like Josh Sharpe did and raised each one a touch so it is now even with the lane guide and now looks like every other pinball.
So much easier to trap up now and all the shots are still makeable.
Just about 1/8 of an inch or two was all it took.
Still can't figure out why the sent the games out the door like that.
Loving it.
Curious, can you elaborate a little? What adjustment are you talking about and what did it fix?
I think I need to get mine replaced too. Is it an easy swap? and do you think cgc will support second hand owners?
Quoted from pinballinreno:I just pressed down on the bend with a 5/16 nut driver, thru the wireform and flexed it lower a little, problem solved.
Did you press down right in the center of the ball guide between the wire form or favor the left or right side more? I'm gonna try this later this week before I contact CGC.
2 weeks later
Quoted from Dopes214tx:The shaker goes off at the start of multiball and also when scoring jackpots. Its used really well in the game.
agreed. it's not overused or underused. it's a nice balance that feels good.
3 weeks later
Quoted from abagwell:This exact issue was occurring on my LE, but on my left flipper when I got it. The ball would take a severe hop and go airborne for over half the flipper length at any speed. I talked to CGC a lot and they sent me some washers to put into the holes that the left ball guide sat in. They told me to push the ball guide downwards while screwing it in with the washers and that made it about 95% better than it was before. It still looks like the flipper is slightly out of alignment compared to the right one but the bounce has been reduced to a very tiny hop and only on extremely slow rolling balls so it isn't affecting my shots anymore. Did anyone else have this issue out of the box?
Quoted from jimbeam42:I have it on my LE as well on the left side. I was thinking it was because of the flipper being aligned low. Maybe I will try the washers on the ball guide first.
I had this issue on my LE, left flipper too; it was driving me nuts. Almost stopped playing and selling the game altogether cause of it. I tried adjusting the flipper alignment, I tried 10 different pitch settings, I tried adjusting the lane guide and tightening screws while giving pressure to one direction. In the end...I found that one of the lane guide posts (top one of the 3) was too tight. The first few times I loosened it I didn't even notice. Loosening all 3 dramatically one day budged the post free, the little lip of it was caught under the lane guide. It's 99% good now so I'd recommend checking those lane guide posts. If you need a pic or further understanding let me know.
On another note; am I the only one who has flipper strength in the positive? I usually run it at +2 or +3 strength; then again, I am at 7.6 dig pitch so that may have something to do with it. Couldn't imagine playing it slower - game is brutal and I love it
Quoted from ausretrogamer:Even at 7.6 degrees that some powerful flipper settings. Mine is at 6.5 deg and was getting contestant air balls (when flippers were set to default) making it hard to slow down the play & aim my shots. Since adjusting to -3 my play is quite consistent with better (higher) scores.
Yea I dunno. Game just feels weak and limpy when I have lower flipper power. Feels fast and crisp with the positive power settings. I do like games that are fast, wild, and harder to control though.
Quoted from glasairpilot:How do you adjust the 3-drop target in front of the Mothership so it sits flush with playfield when retracted? My 3-drop target is not fully extending or retracting in game play or during the test procedure. The microswitches are activating just slightly before the cam is in the full extension of up or down making the target assembly roughly 3/32" from fully extending or retracting.
I do not see any adjustment for the microswitches. Thank you
There should be a couple Phillip screws under the mech under the pf. Tightening the screws raises the mech, loosening lowers it. It took a few different times adjusting it for me to get it right.
1 month later
I chose to scarf it down, give the 5 year old and 1 year old iPads, and proceed to rule the universe! Now I can go bathe the kids with a smile lol.
First time I ever got to the mothership in video mode too. Funny thing is, I never knew that existed!
Quoted from rai:how many extra balls??
3. One for saucers, one for SOL, and one for video mode. But I lit RTU on ball 1 + all 3 ebs (so really ball 4), then let it drain while I had it cradled pondering whether I should go to dinner or not haha.
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