Attack From Mars (Remake - Classic)
Chicago Gaming Co., 2017
Attack From Mars (Remake - LE)
Chicago Gaming Co., 2017
Attack From Mars (Remake - Special)
Chicago Gaming Co., 2017
Freddy: A Nightmare On Elm Street
Gottlieb, 1994You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider RussMyers.
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Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Finally got around to playing with the custom logo. I tried several, but in the end settled for something simple. Since it is so small, anything with too much detail or not enough contrast just didn't work well, IMO.[quoted image]
How did you do that?
Is there documentation?
Thanks,
RussM
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:In the manual, but outlined in this post: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/attack-from-mars-remake-afmr-owners-club/page/27#post-4095492
You just need a microSD card to transfer the file.
Thanks!
RM
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:At this point, I think I'm just about done with the mods once I make sure the green HAPP reject buttons are what I need for this game. I do have one other thing I would like to do, as I'm not particularly a fan of the backboard graphic. I think I'm going to go with the cityscape on the backboard, but need to figure out what all is involved to make this happen. Has anyone changed theirs, and if so would you mind sharing pics along with the procedure?[quoted image]
If it's like the original AFM, there are two metal L brackets on the front of the backboard that attach it to the top of the playfield you have to unscrew and then you have to remove the screws from the bottom that go through the bottom of the playfield and up through the bottom edge of the back board and it comes off.
RM
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:I looked at it closely the other day, and it looks like 4 screws/bolts hold the backboard on (2 brackets with 2 screws each - lower left and lower right). The bad thing is that the brackets are on the topside of the playfield and the screws are inserted from the playfield side, so some major teardown has to occur to get to them from what I can tell.
Not sure if/when I'll take the time and effort to make the change.
Correct. I have done this only when I have already had a lot of the playfield disassembled for a shop job.
RM
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:So I messed something up somehow when I put everything back together on the coin door. There was nothing electrical done when replacing the coin return buttons, but for some reason my bulbs will barely glow now. I tested both with the original bulbs and the Comets and they both do the same thing. Instead of being nice and bright when you turn the pin on, they bulbs barely illuminate (you cannot tell with the coin door closed but with it open you can see that the bulbs have faint light).
I've switched out bulbs, wiggled wires, checked connections, repowered the pin, but I still can't get them to illuminate correctly. Does anyone have any idea what my issue may be? The only thing that I can tell is impacted is the two coin door bulbs.
Put a voltmeter on the bulb sockets; should be about 12v. I bet you're getting low voltage on them.
RM
Quoted from LTG:No manufacturer can.
LTG : )
Lloyd,
I was thinking of adding some lighted flipper buttons to my MMr and AFMr.
I usually DIY these on WPC, Stern etc, but apparently I have to be more careful where I tap into power on the CGC games.
I can use 6v or 12v LED bulbs. Where is the recommended spot to tap into 6v or 12v power for these?
Thanks,
RussMyers
Quoted from pghpinfan:I bought the flipper button light kits from Mr_Tantrum, is this a warranty breaker?
Well, after looking around, BriteButtons offers a kit that they say is compatible with CGC games and they show how to wire it in.
http://www.britemods.com/britebuttons-.html
I am guessing that CGC's position is they don't support any non-CGC mods of any kind, and that owners do so entirely at our own risk, including voiding part or all of our warranty.
This is entirely understandable from their perspective.
I'd say anything non-approved we do with our games it at our own risk.
Disappointing to a degree, and the board failure from simply putting otherwise common LED bulbs in the coin door causing such an expensive problem is frustrating.
As previous posters have said, fixing that board is probably fairly trivial for a skilled electronics tech that can do small SMD device replacement (which is not me)
RM
Quoted from Erich0:I’m installing the Cliffy’s SOL protector and I’m having a tough time getting the post out. I tried tapping it from behind with a hammer and twisting it with some vice grips. Nothing doing. Any advice?
It is dangerous to tap it straight out from below because there is a risk of damaging the playfield around the hole, like spalling a big chip out of the plywood.
If you can, put steady pressure on the bottom of the post upwards from underneath while turning the post counterclockwise from above.
Basically unscrewing it from the wood hole with upwards pressure from below.
RM
Quoted from TOLLS:Sounds like you need a Martian number of arms to do that.
Yeah, LOL.
Playfield upright
Wooden dowel in left hand pushing up on bottom of post
Pliers in right hand turning top of post CCW
PITA, yes, but doable
Two people might help
RM
Quoted from amkoepfer:Is there a setting for knocker coil strength? It is deafening!!
You can also put a piece of foam weatherstrip on the strike plate to soften the sound and keep the function. Or a blue pad.
RM
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Linwood, NJ