First of all, I love this game and probably my favorite to play. Well outside of my price range, but Cidercade in Dallas (near me) has an AFM LE that is a blast to play. Literally, my only complaint about the pin (foregoing the bad flipper alignment they have setup on theirs) is the M-A-R-T-I-A-N insert lighting. I have a really hard time telling what is lit verses what needs to be lit during game play. I haven't taken the time to read through this thread, but was wondering if that was a common issue with others and/or is there a way to adjust the blinking rate or even turn off the target lights that aren't hit yet?

I've played the original AFM a few times, but can't seem to remember if it had the same type of operation or not.

Cool, thanks for the feedback.

Here you go: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinball-in-movies-or-tv-shows-name-a-game-you-have-seen-in-the-background/page/34#post-5222925

How would one be acquired if you are not the original owner? Still contact a local distributor?

Awesome, thank you. I'm in the process of acquiring a LE, and just trying to be prepared for things I might need to address.

Not going to count my chickens before they hatch, but I have a verbal agreement on an AFMr LE (green) that I'm picking up Saturday. Super excited, and I've already ordered the green Pinbits plastic protectors (which I think look great) and all Titan glow in the dark rings (I've seen/played a AFM in person with this setup, and it looked fabulous).

I've also ordered a couple of Comet Matrix lighting strips - ice blue for scoop and UV for center drain. On traditional pins, I just alligator clip or solder into the GI circuit (typically just on the leads of a light socket). Given the electronics of this pin, how would I go about easily tying a light strip into the GI?

Most definitely. You'll be asking for my Pinside account to be suspended by the time I'm done posting! Can't come close to express how excited I am to obtain my dream pin.

Has anyone been able to acquire or know of a source for the AFMr GI LED bulbs (interested in cool white)? I've communicated with Comet, and they do not have them nor are they going to. Apparently NiftyLED did not transfer any of their inventory, rather, they just referred all LED customers to Comet. NiftyLED is not communicating with any end-users from my understanding.

If you really wanted to show your love, you should have entered her initials

Silly question from an owner in waiting . . . how many balls does this game take (I seem to not be able to find the answer)?

Can anyone tell me what the Molex/plastic connector type/model is that is used for the GI bulbs? I'd like to buy a few to tap into the cables for adding on some accessory GI lighting.

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Exactly what I was looking for - thank you! I'm a Comet Matrix connoisseur when it comes to the older DMD games, but this will be my first new generation pin with all this high-fangled technology.

Crazy that you have to go to 4 different sources.

Actually, the NiftyLED bulbs were unique in that the housing used is proprietary. Comet does not and will not ever make these (I've had firsthand discussions with them). What I don't know since I don't possess the game yet, is if you can somehow Frankenstein a third party LED into the existing GI LED housings or if it is a closed unit.

Correct, you cannot use standard bulbs in the GI since it takes these things.

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After researching, I can get the JST 2.0 connectors and the Feed Thru Wire Housing from Mouser (fairly local to me). I'm still trying to figure out that blasted 4 pin Z-connector (some look like they are homemade). I have a PM to somebody that sells mods with those included to see if they will share a part number & source with me.

I assume for your Z-connector you just broke off a 4 pin section as you needed it? Also, do you really need the brightness adjuster or is that just a nice to have in case you want to tweak?

In preparation for my soon to be AFMr, I've designed a keychain for the coin door key to match others I offer for a variety of pins. Keychains are square transparent acrylic with the photo size approximately 1.25" square. If anyone is interested in purchasing one please PM me. I sell them for $12 for the first keychain plus $5 each for the next 5 if ordering multiples. Pricing includes US shipping, and I'm happy to custom design for any pin.
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Small piece, but maybe. I'm more concerned with how the pins and wiring are done. Might be easier to hack an existing socket.

Wow, they are proud of those. I was hoping to possibly convert to cool white, but even if they had them it would be over $100.

I usually end up just cutting SMDs off the strip to change intensity - but that is a non-reversible action.

Also, Eric from Pinduino pointed me to these: https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MWWS100-2236

Based upon your recommendations, I believe these components should do the trick (minus the Comet stuff):

- Feed Thru Wire Housing | https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/571-3-640620-4
- JST 2 Pin Power Connector | https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/713-321050009
- Feed Thru Z Connector (32 pin designed to be cut to size) | https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MWWS100-2236

Also, instead of buying wire, I'm just going to make my harnesses short (the length of the JST 2 cable) and then use the Comet Matrix extensions to route to where my add-on lighting mods will be.

Just got my parts ordered - now my disappointment of not being able to do add-on lighting has turned into me being really stoked!

Cutting is simple on the Comet LED strips (done it dozes of times for all the mods I sell). You just have to maintain a resistor with each SMD (i.e. for every SMD you cut off, also cut off it's corresponding resistor). This image shows were all SMDs and resistors are in sequence. Sometimes in a strip the sequence will reverse (e.g. S|R|S|R|R|S|R|S) Same principle applies when cutting, you must leave each SMD's corresponding resistor intact for it to illuminate. Just work backwards from the opposite end of the wires in pairs, and you'll never mess up.

As far as doing anything to the end after you cut the strip - it always helps to lick it with your tongue to seal in the flavor.
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Just got these in the mail. Oh man, I'm getting excited. Only 3 more days before I pickup my game.

FYI, I bought both the standard and the thin flipper bands to see which I like best on this game.
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That is a beautiful game, and I also have the green plastic protectors on the way. I’ll have to think about the bats. A translucent green might look nice. As far as the E@E, I have my own ideas for that.

Who do I look like, Google?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/attack-from-mars-remake-afmr-owners-club/page/112#post-4510011

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/attack-from-mars-remake-afmr-owners-club/page/112#post-4513408

BTW, you know my comment was in jest, right? I typed it while smiling?

Seriously, however, if you’ve not figured out how to use the Pinside search features or how to view the image gallery in a topic, they are extremely useful features of this forum.

I had a few goodies arrive today. Now all I need is the actual machine to go with them - that's happening tomorrow.

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So, I'm not one to count my chicken's before they hatch, but I'm 99.9% certain that an AFMr LE (green) will be in my possession tomorrow. I found one in pristine condition within a day trip of where I live that is currently owned by a fellow Pinsider who really seems to love his pinball. He has a significant collection of all newer pins and typically LE models. He's got a couple of new ones coming in and needs to make room, so he decided to put his AFM on the market. Coincidentally (well, not really), it was exactly what I've been looking and saving for over the last year. Fortunately for me, I was the first to make a serious offer and we came to terms. I always dreamed one day that I would be able to join the exclusive AFM/AFMr owners club, and now it's just one day away.

Since the pin is in stock condition (beautiful and pristine at that), I do want to put my own flair on it - I just can't help myself. I've spent the last week reading every single post in this thread, and every other thread that references AFMr. Anyway, down the line I will most likely add some external lighting mods (definitely the interactive flipper buttons, and maybe the undercab lighting), but for now here are the things I have ordered. Let me know if I've overlooked anything obvious:

- Full set of AFMr Cliffy protectors
- Pinbits green plastic protectors (I have thin lock nuts coming - not sure what else I will need to make these work)
- Full set of Titan rings, posts, and flipper rubbers in glow-in-the-dark
- Parts to build my own lighting harnesses to tap into GI to for my planned lighting mods (trough light and scoop light using Comet Matrix LED strips)
- Nylon washers for the leg bolts (picked these up at Ace Hardware for $0.27 each)

- The other two things on my list that will come a little later are
1) Target decals - I'm going to design my own just for the red targets and the top of the 3 target gate. Not sure exactly what the design will be yet, but I don't care for the ones I've seen out there. Also, for some reason I really like the greens to be blank in this game (probably the semi-transparency).
2) Eat at Eddies - Well, my plan is to design my own version of this. I have something in my head, but not on digital paper yet. There are a few things I would prefer be different, and I want to put my own flare on the mod. More to come on that.

Thank you for the link. I'll see how things go for me, and turn to ordering new posts if I need to. These protectors are much thicker than I expected them to be.

Thanks for your perspective. I've played Titans on both of my other pins since I've owned them, and personally really like the look and the feel. Of course, I really don't have anything to compare to except the crappy deteriorated black rubber ones that came on Getaway (my JP was my neighbor's and he always had Titans on all of his pins too).

I initially had transparent with red posts on my getaway then switched to clear posts and red rings which looked much better. I have yellow on my DE Jurassic Park, I they look great.

Anyway, didn’t mean to turn this into a silicone vs. rubber conversation. Everyone go shoot down some Martian ships, and I guarantee you’ll feel good about whatever kind of rings you have installed.

Look what found its way to my house today. More pics to come when I get it unpacked and setup.

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It’s a beauty! LE #363 in perfect condition with 80 plays on it. Seller was an awesome guy, and he let me play the games I wanted in his collection, including the new Jurassic Park LE, Monster Bash Remake LE, and Black Knight LE - all 3 were awesome, as well as the rest of his collection.

I’m waiting for all my upgrades to arrive, so I can do everything at once. Even so, this pin is a stunning out of the box.

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So, I'm really on the fence about adding Pin Stadium lights, mainly due to the cost of the mod. For those of you who have them, I was wondering what your thoughts are once you've owned them for awhile and played several games. How might you persuade met to go for it, or do you regret your decision in any way? I've seen every post related to Pin Stadium in this thread, but they are somewhat limited and I know that photos probably don't do the lighting justice. Also, I'm sure everyone posted when they first installed the lights, and opinions may have changed as time passes.

My main desires are as follows:

- General better illumination of the middle of the playfield
- General better illumination of the back of the playfield
- Making the UV reactive inks on the playfield pop/glow (e.g. the green saucers, et. al.) - this would also be good for my Titan glow rings.

Also, have any of you purchased them at shows, and was there any kind of discount for doing so other than saving shipping? If I decide to buy them, I'm not sure I can wait until TPF 2020, but depends on if they offer a significant discount.

So, they don't turn the game purple do they (I don't want to end up in the color puke thread)? Seriously, does the mix of UV and white eliminate the "purpleization" while also giving a nice glow to the UV elements?

Do you have a video you can share? If you don't want to post publically, I can PM and give you my email.

Okay, that's pretty awesome.

So, after playing several games of my new AFMr LE (which I love), I just happened to notice that I have a set of plastics with the crackling artwork. I submitted a ticket and received a prompt reply that cosmetic issues are only warrantied to the original owner within two weeks of purchase (which has obviously lapsed) and that I would need to buy a replacement set from Planetary Pinball. I found the set here: http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-31-2535-COMP for $139 plus shipping, but had some questions from those of you who had to do the same.

Are these plastics truly OEM or are they remakes? The tiny picture doesn't do the coloring justice and there is no other info on the site about them. I'm bummed a little at having to spend the money if I want perfect condition ones (the ball returns are really the only 2 that are bugging me), but I want to make sure that I'm getting OEM quality and coloring.

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Thank you for the info. I'm going to consider it but not pull the trigger yet. There are minor issues with some of the other plastics (I've not looked closely at everything), but the lane returns are most noticeable. Of course the close-up camera shot does exaggerate the issue some.

If/when I decide to replace them, you have first right of refusal on my saucer plastics.

Okay, that is interesting. Why would they not offer consistent support in the same situation? Might it be because I'm beyond the initial 2 year warranty (even though that is not what was communicated to me?).

Well, I followed up with a reply equipped with the new info about what is occurring and how they have replaced for others. I'll see how they respond.

LTG, do you have any input on this or can you help me?

Thanks for taking the time to respond.

I definitely understand my situation, and I am being very respectful in my communications with CGC. I'm just not one to take the first "no" for the final answer in any circumstance. I know that the frontline support staff follow the processes and rules that have been established, but somewhere up the line is a decision maker that has the final say regarding if/how to support the customer. I realize they have no obligation to do so, but if they were to make a decision to support me then they would definitely earn my support and public praise. If not, then I have nothing negative to express about them, I have no hard feelings, and I move on with life.

To my surprise, the CGC technician (Art) just called me regarding the two cases I have open (PIC 2.0 chip & Plastics), and even transferred me to the VP of Sales (Ryan) who is responsible for approving the parts warranty. I must say that even though they have no obligation at all to support me (both as second owner of a game and also the 24 month warranty on my pin has expired), they were both extremely helpful, friendly, and supportive.

While they are unfortunately unable to provide me a replacement plastic set, Ryan took the time and effort to explain to me why. It isn't just a matter of policy or strict adherence to the terms of the warranty. Rather, due to the age of the AFM title they just don't have any plastic sets left in inventory to distribute. Regarding the PIC 2.0 chip, Art directed me to engage the original distributor, and they are now sending me the updated chip.

I can honestly say that my experience with CGC customer support in the few days I've owned my AFMr LE has been very positive, respectful, and extremely responsive to my needs. After actually speaking with Ryan & Art, I feel even more positive about their company and the quality products they are bringing to the pinball community. Ryan was also nice enough to chat a little pinball with me (wasn't in a rush to move on and get me off the phone), and even extended the offer for me to call their support team any time I might experience an issue with my game in the future.

I'm a firm believer of letting others know when I have a positive customer experience, and CGC has treated me as well as I could expect given my particular situation.

So since I'm changing out all of my rings, I'll be left with a full set of OEM black rings with only 80 plays on them. I don't know if anyone wants them or not, but I'd be happy to send them to the first to claim them for $10 (includes US shipping). Otherwise, they are just going in the trash.

Good point, let me correct my statement " . . . Otherwise, they are just going in storage."

I just finished installing my plastic protector set (the low-profile nuts were an absolute requirement - thanks neverahighscore for suggesting that). Other than that, it was just figuring out how to take everything apart and put it back together.

While I was at it, I also replaced all of the rings/sleeves that I could with my new ones. Now I only have all of those in the pop area under the ramp. I have no idea how to remove that ramp, so I'm about to go researching. OCD refuses to let me play the game until I get all of rings the same color.

UPDATE: Well my research hasn't yielded any info on how to remove the pop ramp in order to get to all of the rings underneath. Can someone please provide some instruction/pointers, or point me to documentation that explains how to do it? I guess I could just start taking things apart, but wanted to avoid any unnecessary steps.

Thanks, but I needed to pull the pop ramps too. Took me awhile, and it wasn't easy, but I finally figured it out.

Everything you said + for the back ramp you had to remove the right wire form, the 2 ramp flap screws, the long standoff post, the gate at the left end, and even then it wouldn't move enough out of the way for me to reach everything so I had to cut the 4 zip ties. Finally was able to move it around enough to get to all of the posts and rings. Put it all back together with no left over fasteners, so I would call that a success.

So here are my pics after updating all of the rings and sleeves to Titan glow-in-the-dark and also adding the Pinbits green plastic protectors. I really like the way it came out. My Cliffy's are on order and I have some light strips coming to illuminate the scoop and center trough using my homemade wire harnesses.
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Those are nice, but I really like the Pinball Life Britecaps (have them in my Getaway). They have an outer ring that stays lit and an inner ring you can adjust to light based on the vibration of the pop firing. This gives a good visual to go along with the pop action.

https://www.pinballlife.com/britecaps-evo-pop-bumper-lighting.html

FYI, if anyone orders a set of rings form Titan, please be aware that the AMFr set is different than the original. Eric and I worked this out, and he is going to add a profile for AMFr so that the game can have its own recommended kits. If you want, you can go by the manual (2-39), but you will need two add 2 additional of item C For the 2 mini-posts in the game (by default one post has the ring and the other doesn’t, but not listed in the rings itemization, and I wanted both covered). FYI, these are the 1” red pointed posts - one above the left Martian and the other above the large flying saucer.

Thanks for the clarification, Eric. I appreciate you taking the time to figure everything out, and updating the group. Above & beyond service like you always deliver.

"Best" is in the eye of the beholder. Really depends upon what you want. You can set the PBL's to always be on (like the Comets) or for the outer ring to always be on with the inner LEDs flashing based upon the pop's vibration (the sensitivity is adjustable with a small Philips head screwdriver). I spend all kinds of money with Comet and love their products, but in this one case I prefer the Pinball Life product. The PBL ones also have white under lighting and they simply snap into the wedge socket w/o any wires and no gluing to the cap is required (the comets have a wire with a socket at the end, and you need to hot glue them into the inside of the cap). Also, just to be clear, these do not fire by being tied into the pop bumper somehow. The center lighting is strictly based on vibration sensed by the mod. You'll have to play around with the sensitivity to try to localize it to the pops as best you can verses heavy bass or shaker motor triggering them.

Of course the BriteCaps are more expensive at $12.95 each ($39 for a set of 3) verses the Comet rings at $7.95 each ($24 for a set of 3)

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No BriteCaps in PBL Clearance or rings in Comet clearance. What are you referring to?

Added a scoop light (ice blue) and a trough light (UV).

I selected the ice blue because I thought it would complement the light blue graphics and the blue inserts above "return to battle" light. However, I'm not sure that I'm happy with it. I may order a green strip next time I need something from Comet (will be soon). I like the UV light. The camera exaggerates the blue, but in person it looks much better. Throws some light on the area and makes the UV rings really glow.

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Since I have the PBL BriteCaps on my Getaway, I can actually measure pop height with and without. I’ll try to get this done later and will report back.

Thank you to everyone who provided input, photos, and video in response to my request about Pin Stadium lighting. I just placed my order based upon everyone's positive reviews when used on AFM.

Also, if anyone else is on the fence, I searched the web and found a current 15% off promo code before I ordered: "buffalo". Not sure how long this will be active, but thought I would share with everyone.

I test fitted this morning, and the BriteCaos will work without issue. However, you will need to remove the ramp to access all three pops.

Now just need to figure out which color. I color matched blues on my Getaway, and they look really nice. However, I don’t know how red with red caps would look.

For those of you who added the Comet rings, what color LEDs did you go with?

So up until now, I had only heard of strobe multi-ball. Was playing tonight in a totally dark room, my strobe is set to high, and voila . . . I was awarded SMB by SOL. WOW! What an experience - almost felt like I was at a rave or something. Absolutely loved it!

I received my PinStadium lights today, and just finished installing them. I must say that I am not disappointed. For now I’m just going with a fixed color and brightness (not using any of the randomizations), but I love how it brightened the game. I have it set to where lighting is more cool in color the way I like it. I can also now actually see the backboard.

My favorite part has to be the UVs tapped into the center saucer flasher - awesome light show!

Without PinStadium
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With PinStadium
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So the speaker panel rattle on this game has been driving me crazy. In addition to rattling as a result of its own vibration, my game room is upstairs so just walking around it caused vibration. After thinking about it a little, I came up with a perfect solution that completely eliminates the speaker panel rattle. I unscrewed the two spacers that the top of the panel hooks onto. I then took some thin silicone post sleeves that I had, and pushed them down over the spacer. I put the screw back through the sleeve and spacer then reinstalled. It is a perfect fit and the sleeve absorbs all of the vibration.

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Hmm, given that I don’t know what you are referring to, my game must not have that issue. I’ve done nothing aside from my mount mod with the thin post sleeves.

So, I kind of like Mezel's E@E building, but I don't really care for the overall style of it. I think the game calls for something more modern that matches the skyscrapers in the artwork of the backboard & backglass. Therefore, I've decided to design and build my own. Mine will have an illuminated sign on top, green tinted windows to match the game, and two fire bulbs on the inside. Also, it will be secured via friction fit and a magnet sheet so it is not permanently affixed, but still secure in place and won't rattle.

I've already printed a template and it works great. Now just need to get the time to print the actual final model. I plan on using a white marble filament for the exterior. I'll provide plenty of pics and a video to show it off once I'm done.

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This is white marble which has an overall appearance of a light grey, and I think it will look really good for a modern style building.

Here is a pic with true white on bottom and the marble white on top.
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Here's a pic of one of my JP mods using the white marble for the T-Rex sign. You can see the contrast between the marble and the white decal part of the sign.

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I like that idea. I might play with it to see what I can do.

Well, I messed around and realized that with broken windows you'll see the inside of the model which I don't want. You might just see black, but you could also see empty space and on the upper windows you might see the wires and lighting. Maybe I can figure out a way to make them at least looked cracked, but not sure.

Well, I didn't realize there was such passion over the AFM chute cover design. My intent is to design and create something that I like for my game, and that I think fits the theme of the existing artwork. That is definitely a modern style building, IMO, when looking at the buildings on the backboard and the backglass. The "Eat at Eddy's" is just a fun tie in. I see it more as a billboard on top of the building like you would see in many large cities. Heck, at worst Eddy's is a national chain and this building is home to their corporate HQ, so why not have your slogan on top of the building? I'm pretty much settled on my initial model, but I may later try to work in some additional damage to the building as I can make time to work on it.

I think the point is the Martians are attacking cities, and this is a building in the city you are defending. You are not really shooting the building in the lock shot, at least I don't perceive it this way. Just like you are not shooting the black chute when the mod is not there. It is just a ball return.

So here is my first prototype. I still need to put burn marks on it, but overall I think it came out pretty good.

With PinStadium
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Without PinStadium
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Just got my green LED strip installed, and I like it much better than the ice blue - definitely the way to go.

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I think you need to utilize the super skill shot to help you accomplish your goal, if you are not already doing so (Page D in the manual).

Finished my E@E building. Took a fire starter to it & then a flat clear coat to seal it in. Wen't more for a subtle burn than a crispy one.

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Also, I have the PBL BriteCaps on order (red) and Cliffy's too. After that, I may design a few target decals for the red targets (I like how the green ones look, so I'll keep those plane), then call it a day. Well, I also plan on doing some LED flipper buttons and tying those into the speaker lights, along with adding some of the static cling Titan button area protectors.

I’ve not noticed that, but now I’m curious and will look more closely. I would think that if it were there then I would have been bothered by it by now. Here is a pic of my panel lowered to compare with yours (I assume you have the issue). Probably a couple of ways to resolve it as I’ve had some bleed on my Getaway when I added illuminated flipper buttons. I just created a black bead using electrical tape that sealed the gap, but you could also use some beaded weather stripping on the back edges of the panel.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/attack-from-mars-remake-afmr-owners-club/page/151#post-5253223

My own 3D design and 3D print. I sourced Comet lighting products and custom made my own wiring harness to tie it into GI w/o altering original wiring in any way. Then used a fire starter to create burns, and finally coated with clear matte finish spray enamel.

The only variance I am aware of is the one that I just developed: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/attack-from-mars-remake-afmr-owners-club/page/152#post-5260091

I like the idea, but didn't like the old style office building. My idea was to make one in the likeness of the buildings in the artwork on the backboard & translite.

Just finished installing my Pinball Life BriteCaps EVO (red with original AFMr caps). I have the outer ring set to its brightest, and the inner ring to light on vibration. FYI, replacing the bulbs/caps on these is quite the chore. I had to remove the right wire frame, the tractor beam ramp, and the back ramp had to be fully loosed so that it could be moved around enough to get to the cap underneath it. Fit is perfectly good with nothing touching or rubbing.
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Well, I didn’t time myself but if anyone decides to give it a try, I’m happy to document how to remove everything since I’ve now done it twice: once to replace my rings and a second time for these pop lights. There are a couple of things you have to watch out for.

I just defeated Mars for the first time ever - lots of fun. However nowhere close to ruling the universe as I only had three achievements.

Playing tonight I do notice that I have some minor bleeding. However, it is not really noticeable when standing close to the machine when plying. However, you do see it if you shift to the side one way or the other.

So, I've been asked about any pointers I might have when installing the Pinball Life EVO BriteCaps. Here is my best effort to document the process. Before starting I recommend placing a towel over the playfield to protect it. BTW, this same process can be used to remove the pieces you need to replace the rings (I did have to cut the zip ties from the top ramp to get the access I needed however - no biggie, just took lots of pics beforehand and redid zip ties when putting it all back together).

-1) Remove the cow ramp by removing the 2 post screws and the 2 ramp flap screws. Be sure you use a screwdriver with the correct size head so as not to strip the ramp screws. When replacing the 2 ramp flap screws, make sure the heads are seated below the metal flap. You may have to use something thin and non-abrasive to "pop" the flap up over the head when you are re-installing.
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-2) Remove the right wire frame. Pay careful attention to the center mount screw as there will be a zip tie that will come loose from this. When re-installing, be sure to first put the ramp in position and slide the zip tie back over the post.

a) Remove the nut and washer from the right lower sling.
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b) Remove the screw from the center support.
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c) Carefully slide the two wires from where they are seated into the metal bracket attached to the top ramp. Note that you cannot fully remove the wireframe since wires are attached to it, but carefully set it out of the way and be careful not to scratch anything.
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-3) Loosen the top ramp so that you can maneuver it around enough to replace the pop caps You do not need to fully remove the top ramp, but if you do you will need to cut all of the zip ties off and disconnect cables - I highly suggest not doing this.

a) Remove the nut and washer from the post securing the top ramp above the 3 pop bumpers.
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b) Loosen the top gate nut and remove the lower gate screw securing to the plastic, then rotate the gate so as to access the ramp flap screws. Also, remove the 2 ramp flap screws as performed in step 1.
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c) THIS IS CRITICAL OR YOU WILL DAMAGE YOUR PLAYFIELD AND/OR CABINET | 1) Use a small bag or sock or something to wrap around the upper ramp flap. When maneuvering the ramp around you could scratch the playfield with the thin metal piece. 2) Do the same to cover the metal support bracket at the right of the top plastic ramp. This piece is sharp, and it will scratch your side blade/panel or even the top of your side rail as you maneuver it around.
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-4) Maneuver the top ramp so as to access removal of the 2 screws on one of the pop caps. You may have to hold it up or to the side (or have an assistant do it) to keep it out of the way depending upon which cap you are replacing. Be careful not to scratch the underside of it with a screwdriver or other tool while working to replace the caps.

a) Remove the two screws, and set them aside as you will be using the longer screws supplied with the BriteCaps to re-secure the caps after installation.

b) Remove the LED bulb.

c) Insert the new BriteCap module and orient it so that the screw holes line up with the holes in the housing, and the two small adjustment screws on top of the BriteCap are accessible (i.e. not covered up by the ramp to where you can't get to them).

d) Repeat the process for the other two pop caps.

-5) Turn the pin on in order to adjust the brightness of the outer rings and to set the inner rings to be solid or triggered by vibration. The document that comes with the caps will tell you which adjustment screw is which, or you just turn one to see what it controls. You'll need a fine tipped Philips screwdriver to turn these screws. You only need to turn slightly to achieve change, so don't over do it.
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a) Find which screw controls the out ring brightness. Turn this screw to adjust to desired brightness (I have mine at 100%). Perform this for all 3 caps, as you'll want them to be equally bright, I assume.

b) Turn the other screw to desired setting. If the inner ring is currently on, then it will always be on. If you want it off by default and triggered by vibration then turn the screw slightly until the inner ring goes off. When set to the off position, the inner ring will flash during vibration (i.e. when a ball activates its pop). When adjustments are completed, turn the game off.

-6) Using the longer supplied screws, secure each of the caps by carefully aligning all of the holes. Tighten the screws until the caps are snug and don't vibrate, but don't tighten so much that you strip the holes.

-7) Install the top ramp.

a) Position the top plastic ramp back in place over the post and align the ramp flap holes. Insert and fully tighten the two top ramp flap screws, making sure that the heads rest below the metal flap.

b) Reposition the gate and insert the screw and tighten to secure the bottom part of the gate, then tighten the top nut of the gate.

c) Place the washer and nut back on the support post and tighten.

-8) Install the wire frame.

a) Insert the 2 wires into the support holes on the metal bracket attached to the upper ramp.

b) Place the bottom of the rap over the sling post but do not add nut back yet. Loop the zip tie over the center post to secure the wires, then insert the center post screw and tighten.

c) Place the washer and nut back onto the sling post, position the wire frame so that it is aligned with return lane, and tighten nut.

-9) Install the cow ramp.

a) Position the ramp in place and secure the 2 ramp flap screws fully. Again, make sure the heads of the screws sit below the metal ramp.

b) Insert and tighten the two post screws to secure the ramp.

ALL DONE! Turn the game back on, and enjoy your new PBL Brite Caps.

Thanks, I was fortunate enough to notice before I did any damage. If you are not aware, I think it would be really easy to accidentally scratch things up pretty badly.

You can do it, just learn from what I had to go through. Take your time and follow the process, and you'll do great. I wish I had someone walk me through it, but figured I'd try to help those who came after me since I had to figure things out on my own. BTW, if anyone else knows a better/easier way, then by all means please contribute to the conversation.

Just finishing installing all of my Cliffy protectors. Man, that is some serious work. Nothing overly complicated, but a lot of work and I spent a couple of hours doing it. Two key things I learned. First, I could not install both SOL Cliffy amp Mantis protectors. I could get them both to fit, but the mantis distorted the Cliffy where I could not get the lips to lay flat on the playfield. Therefore, I opted for the Cliffy’s. Second, you have to remove three posts to install all of the protectors. I saw where others couldn’t get the posts removed. All I had to do is remove the nut and washer from the underside, then use a hammer and punch tool to punch the post up through the bottom of the playfield.

Update: I played 2 games and got 3 balls hung up on the Cliffy's. The 3 target bank which I resolved by adjusting the default target depth, the backside of the SOL which I adjusted, and the outhole drain which I haven't done anything with. It seems like after installing the outhole drain one the edge of the Cliffy is not flush with the playfield. Not sure how I need to fix it as it was flush when installed, but when tightening the assembly underneath it pushes it up for some reason.

Thanks. Now that I've had them in, I think I want to take everything apart again and adjust the brightness on the outer ring (I have them cranked to max). Unfortunately, will take some effort on this game with everything that has to be removed, so I will probably be lazy for awhile and just live with it.

No, the LEDs are on a disk (i.e. round board) that has a fixed lead tab that plugs directly into the cap light socket. I've attached a pic, but this is an older setup - now the center ring adjustment is on top and is a screw. They have the color of your choice when ordering on the outer and inner rings on top, and cool white on the underside. IMO, clear caps would not look good with these as you would clearly see the board. Also, PBL does sell several different color caps with their lights ($3 extra per cap).

https://www.pinballlife.com/britecaps-evo-pop-bumper-lighting.html

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To light the SOL, I used a Comet Matrix 3 SMD strip and brightness controller. To tap into GI, I made a custom harness that pulls power from an existing connector and passes through to the same type of connector on one end to plug back onto a GI bulb, and a connector compatible with what the Comet Matrix lineup uses on the other end.

From the underside of the playfield I mounted the strip using the adhesive backing in the inside of the chute (backside) on the downslope near the bottom just above where it flattens.
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Those look really nice on DW.

FYI, if anyone would like to order a wiring harness that lets you tap into the GI and connect a Comet Matrix cable, I will sell them for $10 for the first and $5 for each additional with shipping included. Just PM me with quantity for payment details.

Here is a pic of the wiring harness (pic is missing the included Z-connector which allows you to connect to an existing GI wire for power). This is not my original idea, and full credit goes to Gogdog for the idea and instructions he posted earlier in this thread. It would cost someone as much or more than what I'm charging to source the materials and build for themselves. However, I know that many guys would rather buy a readymade piece than to go to the effort of creating their own, so I thought I would make them available to anyone who might be interested.

I'm making them for $5 a piece and the first order has to cover packing materials and shipping cost (thus, the extra $5). I know what parts have to be ordered, how to make the pigtails, and test each one before I ship. These allow for anyone to simply add lighting mods without any physical modifications to their pin (i.e. they are fully reversible, and do not require modifying the existing wiring whatsoever.
harness.jpg

Thanks for the link, as I didn't realize Mezel sold them. Quite honestly, these aren't fun to make (can't tell you how many times I've nearly punctured my fingers), but I wanted to make them available for those seeking to do their own simple and low-cost lighting mods (scoop lighting, backboard lighting, trough lighting, etc.)

I didn't realize Mezel sold them individually apart from combined with their mods, or I would have just bought mine from them and pointed people to their site. I searched everywhere I could before I decided to order all of the components to make my own, but somehow didn't come across Mezel's.

I've created and sold all kinds of mods for older pins and typically just tied in lighting using Comet Matrix components and their alligator clips to hook onto a GI socket. However, AFMr is my first modern pin, and it required a different solution. I haven't really seen any posts in this thread before about these being available anywhere (just Gogdog's post about making them), so my intention was to make a ready-to-us harness available to the group that I didn't think was publicly available elsewhere.

As far as the components go to make the harnesses, if anyone desires to build their own here is where I sourced everything:

- MTA-100 feed thru headers: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/571-3-640620-4
- JST 2 power connectors (male): https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/713-321050009
- 0.1" feedthru Z-connectors: https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MWWS100-2236 (you cut/snap these to the desired pin count - 4 pins in this case)

I don't have any kind of punch tool, so I use a narrow flathead screwdriver to punch the wiring onto the feed thru header. This process is a little precarious, and where I've nearly punched holes through my hands a few times when things slip.

I don't mind being downvoted for opinion posts, but what is wrong with my DIY SOL lighting mod @wackybrakke? Did I not explain or show something clearly regarding the mod? I'd like to resolve whatever the issue may be.