Ordered this off EBay today. Don’t get my game until Dec though. Thanks for all the pics etc,it looks great.

Excited to see people getting theirs! I’m #17 on my distributor list so I probably still have to wait awhile.

Playing that was probably more fun than the Packer game Sunday.

With CGC on here knowing about a reoccurring problem, why do so many people have trouble with the shooter out of the box? Is it really just a small number encountering this or should I plan on addressing this with adjustments, washers, etc right out of the box. Excited to get mine but I’m not as good at fixing this stuff as you guys are so I’m kind of nervous.

Still waiting on the call for my LE but if it has the launch problem it seems easier to me to just use a couple washers. Probably not the best way but if it’s easy and works that’s what I’m going to do.

Looking through these posts it looks like #646 is the newest LE. Anybody have one higher? Trying to be patient waiting for my phone calll. Maybe I’m getting #1000.

My Met Pro worked perfectly out of the box. Hope my luck continues with AFMr LE

Just curious, when you guys are getting these calls from the shipping companies did your distributor call you first to say it was sent out or were these call out of the blue?

Awesome....very exciting. Have fun. I’m going crazy waiting.

Does still being in the box add a lot size? Every pin is a tight fit down my stairs, especially JD, but that doorway looks pretty wide and that machine taking every square inch.

Suppose to get mine Wed. It’s been cold, cold , cold here... 6 degrees now. When I get it how long you do you normally wait for it to get to room temp before turning it on?

There needs to be a dedicated topper thread...I just got mine today! However, topper isn't working right. I copied this from CGC and I'm having the exact same problem. Any ideas?

Alien topper does not work correctly. All connections are plugged in and verified. Only the alien eyes and the led strip that lights the front of the alien light. The motor, flashers, saucer lights, and city led strips do not work. However right at start up the saucer lights on the topper will spin/light once then never again while game is on. During topper test, neither the motor, city lights, mini saucers, flasher test, Martian test... nothing works. All fuses seem good and have four green lights lite on the topper board.

#763 reporting for duty! Besides topper issues above, I have the same airball, launching, and rattling glass many have reported. Only been playing around with the topper at the moment.

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Thx for pointing that out! I was wondering about that. I'll blame that for my terrible play! I've read this whole thread while waiting for mine and remember reading that about yours but this thread has become so huge it's become difficult to find the relevant part of the thread you want. Somebody suggested taking notes but I thought it'd be easy to find things if I went back. Should of made notes with a thread # next to it. But I like the idea of the technical issues above which I didn't see when I posted my issue. Right now I just want my topper working.

Put in my ticket for the Topper and ball launch issues. Already got back to me. Said they’ve seen this issue on recent machines and are sending me a new PIC 2.0, whatever that is. Also sent PDF on ball alignment and bending that metal part.

Yeah there’s been a lot of complaining. I’ve had some problems with mine that will hopefully soon be resolved but in the meantime the game is still playable. It’s beautiful, a blast and I love it. No regrets on selling a couple pins I liked to be able to buy this.

I agree. And this is a great machine and most the issues seem to be fixable. With that said I find it disturbing that it’s the same issue plaguing most people, the ball launch issue. You’d think they would have addressed this and I think the problem is more widespread than was let on.

When I got my LE on 1/3/18 the topper didn’t work correctly. Only eyes lit and the light in front of the alien. No other lights (except saucer lights one time upon power up) or motor worked. Put in ticket with CGC. They quickly sent PIC 2 chip and an extraction tool. It’s a 40 pin chip and was fairly difficult for me with my limited repair skills to get it in the socket without bending the pins but I did it and it fixed the problem. If you are like me and haven’t changed one of those before, it’s trickier than it seems. I pulled the whole card out of the game and found it simple while the circuit board flat vs doing it in the cabinet where it was difficult to see. Bent the pins twice that way.

Anybody have problems with that bar and latch inside the coin door? Mine has been very shaky since day one but I was more worried about getting my topper working. Put some electrical tape on the back of the glass to get rid of the rattle (it worked) but now I can’t get that latch to work. All the jiggling and rocking in the world and that latch won’t catch. None of my pins have done this before. Not quite sure what to adjust.

Been playing around with them and can’t quite see what they are doing. Gone all the way from fairly tight to very loose. This is the kind of sh!T I didn’t expect to have to deal with. Moral of the story, buy local next time and have them set it up.

Not trying to complain when asking about lock bar, just not sure how to fix it and looking for advice. I've had a few pins and never had this problem. Honestly, still not sure how to fix it as those brass screws loose and the silver latch part too low. I found if I reach inside and push it up it will catch. Also needed a new chip to make the topper even work. Hardly whining. People bash on Stern but my NIB MET had zero problem out of the box and I guess I expected the same. This has been more like the JD I bought.

But whining aside... I love this pin, by far, more than any other. Even my wife and kids who really don’t like pinball like and play it. I’ll play around with the lock bar more but at least I figured out how to lock it even if unconventional. Next up is the doing the ramp bend.

I wonder how close they are to selling out the LEs? I know they aren’t going in absolute chronological order but mine is 763 so I imaging they have to be getting close to selling all 1000.

I disagree. My local vendor who I didn't go through for my AFR provided very good service setting up new MET. I would of noticed it immediately and said something. If you know what you are doing it sounds like an easy adjustment. I think they would of but I guess we'll never know.

I put in a ticket that my topper wasn't working and they immediately sent me PIC version 2 and an extraction tool. Fixed my topper issue.

Probably is if you've done it before. If you haven't just know all 40 pins don't just fit in the socket. You have to gently put some pressure on the side not resting in the socket. I bet there will be quite a few people who've never done this before bending some legs with board in the machine. Taking it out just makes it easier, much easier.

Thx for the advice and pics. When I have time I'm determined to get this working properly. I'm having fun playing rather than tweaking the game. Right now I just reach inside the coin door and push the silver lever down then it catches.

I got mine early Jan and had same topper problem. I had some airball but my game still very playable and fun. I put in a ticket with CGC and they responded right away. Had the new PIC in a few days. It fixed my topper problem. I went -2 on my flipper strength and haven’t noticed any airball. I still have to do ramp fix as mine fails about 20% of the time but that doesn’t bother me that much. I love this game and glad I bought it. I wouldn’t hesitate to buy another new game from CGC if I had the $ but it’s unlikely I’ll have the $ for another new pin.

Noticed decal starting to peel. Should I put some sort of glue or something over it so it doesn't get worse?

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Oh, Oh... do you mean something else ( maybe serious) is wrong? The cabinet itself is cracking? The bar itself is possibly scuffed because I've been trying and trying to adjust it to work easily, which I've failed to do. It's on nice and tight but I will struggle every time I need to deal with it. I don't think anything is wrong with the launch button. I"ll look closer when I get home. I didn't notice the decal until today. I'd think I would of noticed it right away but didn't until today. It is possible it happened moving it. I had to take it out of the box to fit through the very last door. I was very careful and I don't think I did t. I'm not sure what CGC could do about it. I love the game and don't plan on getting rid of it. I just don't want it getting worse.

Can you show a pic of what yours is doing? I thought it was "just" a tear in the wrap around decal. Now you have me worried.

Well, this sucks. Should I stop playing the game? Do you normally go through your distributor first or straight to CGC ticket?

You might be on to something. Right one is completely straight but look how crooked this left side is. Not sure if that's why I'm having some trouble or is it common for those to be mounted off some.

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Yes, thanks everyone for the advice.

My splitting cabinet. The legs weren’t that tight so I wonder what caused that. Are all pinball cabinets put together with glue?

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I filled out a ticket with CGC but I don't know what they could possibly do but since others are having the same problem I think they should know. I plan on going to the store and buy that Titan brand wood glue recommended by others on here. I'll get a syringe to help get it in the split better. I might know someone who has ratchet straps to try and pull and hold the cabinet together while it dries but if I can't get that I'm not sure how'll I do this part. I don't really own any vice type tools or such. The decal itself is rough but if I fold it over and put some mylar over it that won't be that bad. My machine doesn't have to look 100%, it just can't be falling to pieces. Like I've said before, I love this game. It isn't going anywhere.

Interesting article. Thanks!

Do you think that gap between the sides is normal? I don't remember seeing it on the other side but I'll check when I get home from work. A very knowledgeable pin friend of mine that I sent the pic too wasn't sure it was the cabinet splitting either but the consensus on here is that is exactly what it is. I'll be curious to look closer into it when I get home. I hope it is normal. I'll throw a piece of mylar over the decal and call it good.

Congrats. If I could have only one game in the entire world (and that’s pretty much the case now) it’d be this one.

I’m trying to do the underlighting like Wthrs and Lermods have given such great instructions for but I’m having trouble finding the right .062 4 pin square molex connectors they used. One used Marco and the other GLE but on their sites I can’t find them. Maybe I’m just blind.

Geeze, that was fast and easy. Really, I did try and look myself. Lol. Thx.

Thx for posting this.

Who cares what others score on it? I suck at this game. Can't even get the default initials off but that doesn't stop me from absolutely loving this game. Plus, I'm getting better...

This might sound stupid but my jet bumpers don't work upon initial launch. You'll do the skill shot then will hit them without popping and dribble down. But after that any shot that puts it back up there they work just fine. I thought maybe it was suppose to be disabled for the first part but I guess not. Is there a setting for that?

Finally got my LED lighting working. Thanks to everyone for their help with this. Esp Whthrs for all his advice, pics, and replying to my messages.

Oh boy,,, my AFMr LE just took a dump. I’m not sure what even happened, was playing when suddenly it just stopped. I heard some coils firing and now it seems the lamps aren’t working. GI and flashers will when I test. I have these errors;

Left outlane switch 16, right return switch 17, left return, right outlane switch 27, left top lane switch 38, EOS is stuck closed right flipper, EOS stuck close left flipper, check motor bank up SW broken, ground short row 6 white-blue R6, ground short row 7 white-violet R7

Yikes! Not even sure where to start. A power supply blown?

Interesting you’d mention the power cord. I did unplug it from the power strip for a few days because I needed the strip for something else temporarily (it wasn’t plugged in nor played) and it broke first game after plugging it back in that strip and then the wall. Everything seems ok with that.

All the fuse LEDs are on except F105 and F106. I took both out and checked and they were fine. The game is acting like there are no balls in it. I filled out a ticket with CG.

Thanks Lloyd

Well my game needed the entire PCB board under the playfield replaced because the game suddenly had many issues and wouldn’t play. CG was good about helping me troubleshoot and sending out a replacement board. All was well but I’m starting to lose some confidence in the game itself as I have no idea what caused that huge failure and I was wondering what I would of done if it wasn’t under warranty.

Now a new issue unless I’m being a bit paranoid which is possible. I was playing a game this morning when I saw a very faint flicker, could of been my imagination but when I look at the animations it doesn’t look as smooth as before. I know when I had my color dmd for JD there were a few different color modes but reading through documentation and going through the menus I don’t see it for this game. Is there such a thing? Kept playing and when hit the ball lock where it shows the tanks I thought I saw the faintest flicker again. When something happened to the PcB board previously I think I may have hit that same shot but it happened so fast I’m not sure. Maybe I’m going crazy... but I could of sworn the display had a more smooth look.

What’s the beaglebone board? So I take it there’s no color display modes?

“ a new issue unless I’m being a bit paranoid which is possible. I was playing a game this morning when I saw a very faint flicker, could of been my imagination but when I look at the animations it doesn’t look as smooth as before. I know when I had my color dmd for JD there were a few different color modes but reading through documentation and going through the menus I don’t see it for this game. Is there such a thing? Kept playing and when hit the ball lock where it shows the tanks I thought I saw the faintest flicker again. When something happened to the PcB board previously I think I may have hit that same shot but it happened so fast I’m not sure. Maybe I’m going crazy... but I could of sworn the display had a more smooth look.”

I think I’m just being paranoid. Different picture, different lighting but I thought it normally looked more like the big, smooth # in the pic I took when I first got it rather than the one I just took. BUT, when I do make the lock ball shot and lights are flashing as it says locked ball, it does dim just a fraction of a second while it’s flashing. Is this normal.

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The display dims just a very little bit at the same time it’s flashing “locked ball 1” after the shot. I’m not going to worry about it. It’s so subtle. Just wondering if the next time somebody hits that shot if they notice it on there’s.

Thanks guys.. I think having to replace a circuit board already on this machine has made me a bit paranoid.