Eat at Eddy's Building is in stock at mezelmods!

Whoa...they got out of stock that quickly? I was slightly worried that I had waited an hour after getting the notification email to place my order (I was sifting through the rest of the site looking for anything else I might want with the order), and …..it looks like I should have been worried! Glad I still got one though.

I did my first cleaning of my AFMr, just a standard cleaning with Novus 1.

However....I was hoping it was going to be easier to clean the orbits/pop bumper areas, but....it seems I would need to take off most of the ramp plastics to get back there? Any suggestions on best way to clean the orbit?

Decently new to Pinball...so quick question. Is post passing fairly difficult on this pin? I can post pass no problem on my IMDN, but the ball follows a much different path when I try and post pass on AFMr. Just want to know if post-passing is/isn't feasible depending on the pin...

Also, in my home use environment...I notice a fairly decent amount of...static/ "fuzzy" type noise from the speakers. You know, lets say the speakers are not actively playing a sound, but I can still hear background noise. Definitely louder on the AFMr than the IMDN speakers. Should I check for anything or...is upgrading to flipper fidelity speakers the only way to reduce it?

OK...so, just curious, on your AFM are you able to post-pass reliably?

No..they are exactly the same for me.

Whoa...this is exactly what is happening. On Max and -1....I just get normal speaker sound, no "buzzing" (max and -1 are the same brightness so same sound coming out of the speaker). As soon as I go to -2 the buzzing comes back. -3 for me....is a higher pitched buzzing...a clearly different tone. Min has the same tone as the -2 setting.

I would really like to have the Min backbox setting....because it has much less glare on the PF glass. IMDN is nice because there is a setting where you can have the backbox be at a different brightness level during gameplay and then back to normal during attract. So...I have it at 10% during gameplay to eliminate glare.

Love the mezel mods eat at eddys building! Just echoing what everyone else says about it...it looks like it was supposed to be in the game. I didn't put tape on the VUK...it seems to stay in place just fine by itself. Plus if I taped it, it was close to blocking a screw on the plastics below it. I like mods that I can easily reverse.

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Bought to place a titan competition rubber order during their sale. Any suggestions on colors that look best on an LE?

Nice pics! Translucent green looks awesome....too bad Titan doesn't offer that color (just solid green and clear), though they do have a UV glow color that might be interesting on AFM. Those pop bumpers look really good too. I was going to do a comet order as well.

What color did you use for the popbumpers? Natural white/Natural white?

OK..here is another quick question. From Titanpinball's site....it says:

The Ultraviolet LEDs output light that reacts with anything containing phosphors. This means day glow playfield inks such as Monter Bash, Attack from Mars and others have the potential to fluoresce under UV light. The Titan Pinball Glow in the Dark Competition Silicone Rings reacr with these bulbs. Check out the pictures below.

AFM_glow-800x800 (resized).jpg

I held a flashlight to the playfield inks and they didn't glow? Do they only react with blacklights or..with these special UV leds? Do AFMRs have the special reactive playfield ink?

So...is there any way of changing the speaker volume besides the main volume option from the coin door?

In my home game room....AFMr is just loud. I have 0, 1, or 2 as my viable options. On my IMDN, I have 1-6 or so before it starts getting too loud, and on my Dialed In, I have a lot more (1-22 or so). I would love some more volume options besides 3 on AFMr. If I had some way of turning down the volume somewhere else (menu, hardware, etc) then I could get more options when using the main volume.

Yeah..it was a pretty straightforward install. Now....one way I could see making this better....is instead of the red led strip, if someone made a fire led strips. Like, comet has some 4smd "fire" led bulbs that is supposed to simulate a fire. It would look awesome in strip form inside the building...

Yeah, I just looked. It was set to 'yes', which allows to go below the minimum level. Factory default is 'no', which sets volume minimum at 8, which is blaring.

Well, yeah...but...I don't know if someone makes an LED fire strip. The comet "fire" series are bulbs, not strips.

Wait, so you handle support for both JJP and CGC?

Agreed. AFMR uses a lot of bass and a subwoofer makes it sound awesome. In contrast to my Dialed IN....which barely has any bass so I could barely tell I hooked up a sub to it.

I used alligator clips on mine...took all of 2 seconds.

Welcome aboard! And...sorry, where did you find that pdf with the instructions?

Is there a scoop power setting? I was trying to find it in the original settings and the "extended" settings from CGC and couldn't find one...

Is anybody else annoyed by this light? Its the only light that shines directly in my face when playing. I can twist the rubber martian a bit to try and get his leg to "cover" the light a bit. But wondering if anybody else has noticed this light?

2019-05-06_1918 (resized).png

A new issue also cropped up for me. The shaker motor is starting to squeak, usually just as it turns off and comes to rest. I read through some forum posts...and cleaned the motor with some contact cleaner, which didn't seem to help (it also didn't seem dirty at all). I also reversed the direction that it spins by switching the wires in the connector. I also put a tiny bit of machine oil on the bushings.

Those 3 things just gave me a tiny slight improvement. Next step...is I read maybe applying some dry silicone lube to the bushings instead of the oil might help. I have some wet silicone lube...but may just go and get the dry version since I guess that's what you are really supposed to use...

With the dry lube...would it be awful if I also sprayed it inside the motor like I did with the contact cleaner? Or should I only spray on the outside bushing sleeve? Basically...wondering if the squeak is from the brushes squeaking on the armature and how I could access and lube those (if possible).

Its a july 2017 build date so....a warranty wouldn't be possible (mechanical is only 12 month warranty).

Yep...I went through the same thing when I wanted to do my own trough light kit. (I wanted to learn how to soder/do own mods and save money by DIY vs buying a kit).

I added a trough light to a IMDN, DI, and AFMr….and each one required different ways to do it.

For attack from mars...its .100 IDC connectors.

I mean, you could just buy the IDC assembly from mezelmods ->

https://mezelmods.com/collections/diy/products/4-pin-100-idc-assembly

But for DIY...here was my setup ->

2019-10-01_0935 (resized).png

and most of the parts ->

20191001_094347 (1) (resized).jpg

So the order is ->

1. 7 SMD led strip from comet

2. Comet matrix brightness adjuster

3. JST 2.0 connectors from aliexpress (something like this https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32848166904.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.2e874c4dLct124)

4. 22 gauge wire

5. .100 IDC connectors from digikey. (https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/3-640620-4/A31090-ND/698308?utm_medium=email&utm_source=oce&utm_campaign=2452_OCE18RT&utm_content=productdetail_US&utm_cid=707689&so=57863092&mkt_tok=eyJpIjoiWmpBMll6TXdOekkxTTJVeiIsInQiOiI0RHUzUnB3Vm52V290dzZxR1JjNFJDNjBkclowRHRYTW5SSkxRT29oVkorSTZsZkNKWk5KOE5UWjkzVng3MUFUT29odFQ3OWx6UUlzeUg4ZkUyTXRxT1Q4VFArUkttWU1vaTFzSTA0elM4V2ZsdEVpMTl5NW9LMnN5bDBGTnAxQiJ9)

6. .100 IDC z-connector. I bet this strip of z-connectors are at digikey somewhere...but I couldn't find them. I had to buy a strip of z-connectors from mezelmods for $4. They aren't listed on their shop...I think I had to contact them directly to ask to buy it. You don't HAVE to buy a z-connector...you could just splice all the wires together, but I wanted to keep it completely removable.

Wait a minute. I haven't had to replace an actual bulb yet in afmr. Are you saying I can't use standard Wedge (555) bulbs that I can get from most anywhere?

Oh crap...I guess ignorance is really bliss. I had no idea since I haven't had the need to change one. Where does Chicago expect us to get replacements then if niftyled isn't selling these? Does MBr also using these types of bulbs?

Ooooh...yeah, if you can find out the actual source of those zconnectors, that would be awesome. I'm sure they are called something else in the electronics industry besides z-connectors.

And yeah, you just break off however much you need at a time...2,4,6 pin, etc.

And no, you don't need the brightness adjuster. I bought them because I didn't know exactly how much a 7 smd would throw, or maybe a 5 smd wasn't going to be enough...etc. Easier to adjust down from a 7. Which...I believe I did (the 7 was too bright full power). I would probably still recommend though if you have to buy a led strip from comet anyway.

Ok nice...glad you found a local place for your electronics....and what another place to buy the z-connectors! Good to see that its at least the same price as mezelmods price so mezelmods wasn't price gouging me.

And with the led strips, you can really just snip them to length? Do you have to do anything to the end of them once you cut them?

Good luck with your upgrade!

Dang...I wish I did Glow in the dark when I switched mine out. Bet it looks cool in strobe multiball. I did all green titan, which looks good too, but not as cool I guess. I should get a set of the plastic protectors too...really looks like it makes things glow.

Its coming alone nicely! The big improvement for me is the lighted sign which I think looks great.

Just to clarify....it wasn't my idea either. I just copied the mezelmods connector when I made my own.

Ok...so I'm looking for a definitive answer on this. With the AFMrs….did they use phosphorescent paint for the green on the playfield? (saucers, highlights around the light lock triangles, etc).

I have tried holding a flashlight to the paint and it doesn't glow like "glow in the dark" paints do. Do you have to have special UV bulbs to make them glow?

I also tried out and installed some glow in the dark titans but they sure don't glow much.

20191102_134542 (resized).jpg

I'm wondering if its because there are no UV lamps. I could switch out my red trough light for UV though if its going to make a difference...

Thanks guys..yeah...I didn't see the recent pic (dumb mistake on my part)...thanks all for the explanations!

How long of LED strips do most people use for undercabinet lighting? 10SMD, or...20SMD+?

Huh...I would have thought comet pinball would have rgb led strips...but I can't find them there. Do we have to go to Ebay or something to find them?

Ah nice...learn something new every day. Ok, so with those strips, you cut in 3 smd sections (so 3, 6, 9, etc), and then solder the wires directly to the strips at the 4 connection points.

Though...the led strips I was buying from comet are usually 6.3V, and these are 12V (though comet does sell 12V versions as well). I guess the speaker lights in AFMr are running 12V that you are tapping into, vs the GI lights (that I tapped into to run a trough light) are 6.3V?

Thanks for the info...wow, I never would have thought 4' worth...I would have definitely made it way too short if I had just guessed. Though now that I think about it, it is a large area to illuminate (the entire bottom of the cabinet). I guess if 4' is too bright for my room, its easily cut after the fact anyway.

I believe you have to hit the launch button when you hit a ramp and the "cow" voiceover line comes on. The line is different for each ramp. I think for the left ramp its just "MOOOO!"...

It sounds like you got to strobe multiball but the strobe light under the alien saucer wasn't working.

Odd to hear about the random reboots...mine has never done that.

Thanks for the pic....good timing. I was just about to install my UV trough light strip...and was a bit horrified on how I originally put my red one in ->

20191120_164120 (resized).jpg

So this time...I didn't completely take the apron off, I just loosened it enough to slide the wires through the top. When retightening...you can leave enough of a gap for the wires.

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In that location though..are you worried about balls constantly falling from the backside and hitting the led strip?

Ok...with help from @mr_tantrum 's advice and 3d printed led strip holders, I was able to make my interactive flipper buttons and under cabinet lighting additions for my AFMr.

20191121_214550 (resized).jpg

The under cabinet lighting is great (and yes...lermods suggestion of having the strip the entire length of the cabinet bottom (4') is right....you need all the brightness you can get). Currently I'm a bit disappointed at the brightness of the flipper buttons. It looks bright in the picture...but green is the brightest color for the speaker lights. Blue, red, etc look pretty dim. In real life its not a "strong" lighted flipper button. Which makes sense.....other single color lighted flipper buttons have a bright LED pressed up right against the flipper button but these work by the ambient light produced from the 3 SMD LED strip that's an inch away from it.

I'll have to experiment a bit more with how to make the flipper buttons brighter but not sure it will be possible or not.

I also experimented with comet's UV glow in the dark star post kit. Thankfully...comet is allowing me to return them. Basically....the UV light is just too blue when on...and clashes with the red/oranges/greens of the playfield.

20191120_191326 (resized).jpg

20191121_173716 (resized).jpg

I still have a UV trough light, which helps the glow in the dark titan rubbers on the flippers, but the blue light isn't so bad there because the strip itself is hidden so you aren't looking right at the blue lights.

And...I do like the GITD rubbers, ...I like the color green they are and they are translucent a bit so it does kind of "glow" when the lights are on, but everything only holds a 1 second charge so when the lights go off (strobe multiball, video mode, destroying a saucer) it doesn't maintain a glow like I was hoping for.

Yes! If there was a clear plastic pal nut...that would be awesome. The metal pal nut blocks a lot of light from the LED strip. A google search hasn't found me any though....

I don't think you need anything to make the plastic protectors "pop"..they are neon colored so any normal lights already from the GI will give you that "tron" like glow...

So...I came up with an idea to make the RGB lighted flipper buttons a bit brighter. And it does work...they are a little bit brighter. I just put took aluminum foil, folded it up a few times, and then taped it between the flipper arm and retention metal flap.

20191213_174014 (resized).jpg

I am a bit worried about having exposed conductive foil there...I should have just added a layer of packing tape on the outside and that would have insulated it electrically (I think).

I tried the GITD comet lights and posts...you can see those here ->

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/attack-from-mars-remake-afmr-owners-club/page/157#post-5317588

It was $36 plus shipping...and thankfully I was able to return them.

I do think green transparent with normal white light would look better though. They would be around the same price...$22 for the comet lights and $4.50 for the posts...but then you have to add in shipping so probably around the same price. Plus you have to make your own wiring harness so you need the parts for that (as you are aware...but they are easy to make).

For me the effect wasn't great enough to replace the GITD with something else so I went back to stock.

OK...those are pretty cool.

I could see $30 each for the non lighted ones as a reasonable cost. I mean...that would be hard to reproduce. I have no idea how he even made those. My imagination suggests like...a 3d scan of on original martian, then enlarge the scan by 20%, 3d print it, then use the 3d print to make a mold, and then use an injector to pipe in the rubbery substance into the mold? I can't do any one step of that.

But....adding $40 each to drill a hole into the eye socket and add $1 of micro leds? Especially since just like you, I would be making my own wiring harness for this since I don't want to crimp into the original wires on the machine.

That seems like an excessive cost for the lighted ones.

I was thinking maybe I should just drill holes into my existing martians eyes to add the lights. If I mess up...I can get replacement ones for $25 from pinball life. Though replacements at $25....might as well just get the extra large jiggly ones...

Yeah...I thought it would be super hard to make those Jiggly Martians. I think your pricing is great on the nonlighted versions, especially since normal sized replacements are $26...so $29 for larger, jigglier ones sound great. Especially with the investment that you put into the mold. (and...getting the molds filled with whatever substance these gets made with..PLUS..the painting involved...etc).

I think most people don't like tapping into existing wiring since it doesn't create a super solid connection, and it does cut into the wiring, (even if just a little bit). If you already have the red IDC and z connectors, offering the white JST connectors are way cheaper. You can get 50 pairs of JST 2.0 connectors (like what comet uses) for $1.80 shipped free from china (I still have no idea how they make any money off most stuff from aliexpress). And they already soldered wire to the connectors on the male side! https://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/0.html?spm=a2g0s.9042647.6.2.503b4c4dUzm2Og&orderId=97964060256474&productId=32848166904

You are right...I shouldn't have passed judgement on the pricing for the lighted aliens until I had tried it myself and known for myself how hard it is to get tiny wires through the eyes on the martians. I'm sorry about that.

Ok...those look good. A lot better than the UV lights and GITD star posts that I tried to do. And I didn't think about doing those other star posts on the side....(so 8 lights total)...nice job there.

Ok....I wanted to see if I could come up with my own way of creating the glow martian eyes, using my existing aliens.

I already had some lighthouse led red pico smd lights, so I used those. Extremely small lights, but are still bright. The wires for these lights really are like thread.

So this is my first martian, and if I come up with a better way to do it when I make the other 3, I'll let you know.

Instead of drilling a hole in the eye, I took a needling pin and simply pushed it straight through the eye.

20200110_194156 (resized).jpg

This is completely reversible. When I took out the pin, the hole completely self healed and I couldn't tell where I even stuck the pin through.

Anyway, lighthouse puts a resistor on each led, so you need to remove it. You can either ->

1. cut away the shrink tubing, and desolder the line from the resistor.
or
2. Cut the red wire and later splice it back on.

I'm not sure which is easier. I actually did both.

20200110_195406 (resized).jpg

Then, I soldered the red/black lines to the needling pin.

20200110_211852 (resized).jpg

And then pulled all the wires through. Wasn't hard.

20200110_212104 (resized).jpg

At this point in the project...I was just going gung-ho for getting it done so I stopped taking pictures. But the rest was easy. Solder the resistor back onto the red wires. Then solder the red wires to additional wiring for length, and do the same for the black wires. I then attached a JST 2.0 female connector on the end, so I could connect it to a JST 2.0 male that I had on a wiring harness I made. (I think there are instructions for making one a few pages back).

Anyway....end result!

20200110_222559 (resized).jpg

Now that I know I can do it, I'll order some more PICO leds to finish up the aliens. If anybody has any suggestions, let me know.

So...I haven't done any wire cleaning to the setup yet. This was basically just a prototype. Though...I doubt I'll change much when I do the other 3 martians (I'm waiting for more pico LEDs to come in the mail now).

My current wiring has a jst 2.0 connector on it, and that won't fit through the hole in the playfield that the coil uses, but yes it does go through the hole in the plastic, then I just fed it behind a stand up target.

20200111_133750 (resized).jpg

I could put a shrink tube sheath around these small thread wires, which would protect them more, though as is they are basically invisible. I would need to make sure to hide a shrink tube sheathed wire more. Not really worried about the shaking. I just made sure the wires had enough slack for the movement. If the leds themselves stood up to the abuse of being pulled through the eye socket and the soder is in tact then I think the shaking is fine (its in rubber too which would probably help with the shock).

Here is a pic of the connector I'm using. Its just attached to standard GI lighting by the slings/outlanes.

20200111_134108 (resized).jpg

Huh...for the connector...mezel mods used to sell them for $5 ->
https://mezelmods.com/collections/diy/products/4-pin-100-idc-assembly

But...they don't sell them anymore? It looks like they are now $14? -> https://mezelmods.com/collections/power-adapters/products/mezel-mods-pinball-power-adapter?variant=5855409111069 Though they might have the additional attachment on the end,.....I guess they look like this now from mezel, to handle some of their other mods I guess that uses that other type of connector on the end ->

2020-01-11_1356 (resized).png

Anyway...the connector I made looks like this ->
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/attack-from-mars-remake-afmr-owners-club/page/153#post-5278178

So...to answer your other question, the pico leds from lighthouse handle a wide range of voltages. Its because they bundle the led with a built in resistor. ->
https://lighthouseleds.com/0402-pico-smd-wide-angle-12v-pre-wired-led-red-ultra-bright.html

They say it works from 9v to 18v, but also state they work at lower voltages. Which...they do! With a multimeter I measured the voltage to the GI as 5.7V.

Whats interesting....is that on the lighthouse led product page, they have a resistor chart for various voltages, and they recommend using a 200Ω resistor for 6V. However...the resistor that comes with the led (as long as I'm reading the resistor color code correctly), is a 1500Ω resistor, so these LEDS should handle even higher than 24V.

Anyway....these leds are still quite bright. I think the brightness isn't too bright, but if you make your own and you think they are still too bright, you could always use a cometpinball.com matrix brightness adjuster. OR....put in a bigger resistor, like...2000 or 2500Ω or something.

You can get a huge range of resistors from aliexpress for $2.50

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32816386187.html?spm=a2g0s.12269583.0.0.3c207edcw7DmQ8

oh nevermind...get these instead
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32887567119.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.67ba708cTYU2nd&algo_pvid=0f9158d3-20be-4dcc-bac2-5ab2770c3211&algo_expid=0f9158d3-20be-4dcc-bac2-5ab2770c3211-7&btsid=3a516daf-ad15-4ab1-b869-339a1e78f0e4&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_4,searchweb201603_53

They are metal-film resistors so the tolerance is 1% vs 5% for the carbon ones I linked to. But...whatever.

That sounds like bull crap if they are voiding your warranty for that. You bought normal 12V led bulbs from a reputable pinball parts provider. Can we not change any bulb in any pinball machine as it will void warranties? The tolerances on amperage on the board should not have been so tight that you can't put in a different, reasonable led bulb without blowing a circuit board. That sounds like a design failure...not user error.

I'm glad that you made peace with it, though I still don't agree that its ok. The coin door GI uses standard 12V wedge sockets, and is SUPPOSED to be user changeable/replaceable. That is what it was designed for. LEDs break and you should be able to switch them out. And you are saying "NON-OEM" parts were used...but how are you going to get OEM led bulbs from Chicago? Its not like they have a user friendly store or something.

On the other hand....I do know that you went from probably 1smd bulbs that Chicago had in there...to using 8smd comet bulbs, which....was probably overboard, since bulbs like 8smd are usually used in high powered flashers....but what should be considered reasonable?

What if you put in a 2smd 12v comet wedge bulb and it blew the circuit board? And CGC still gave you the run around that you used NON-OEM parts? Would you do as your namesake says (mr_tantrum) and throw a bigger tantrum? I would...

Wasn't aware of britemods.com before. Looks like they are connecting their flipper buttons directly to the power supply in the cab. The RGB illuminated flipper buttons connect to the same power as the rgb leds in the speakers. At least we have proven that the system can handle it no problem (since I also connected a 4' rgb led strip to the same circuit as well as the flipper buttons!).

They are using radial led boards. Too bad the are only a single color...if someone made a RGB version that would be sweet! Then the RGB mod would be much brighter.

Ok.....leds came in and got all 4 martians done now. I didn't change anything with my previous process, just got slightly faster at it.

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And...for some reason I'm just now noticing this lock bar for when you raise the playfield.

20200115_195453 (resized).jpg

The instructions in the cabinet say to raise the arm and lock it in place...but how is it supposed to work? I don't see a place where it locks into the playfield. And...the bar has a 1 1/4" rubber ring on it? Did a previous owner put that on for some reason or is it on all pins from factory?

Glad that someone else has noticed that as well, because it has always bugged me.

My solution..is that you can rotate that martian to the left a bit and the martian's left leg will then block most of the light. The martian is rubber so you have some play with twisting him on his metal holder...and he stays pretty well in that position, even with shaking.

Small correction, 5 billion. Not the hardest thing though...long ball saver and everything is lit for jackpots.

Why would you need the washers anyway if you install the plastic protectors? Regardless, you can go to the hardware store and get low profile lock nuts too.

Nice...much better than my Father's day gift of a card!

I have both AFMr and DI....why does the SIM card value deter you from DI? That is the goal of the pin....to beat modes to collect sim cards. I have SIM card carry over ON (default is off....where you lose uncollected sim cards on ball drain), which ON is what I believe is fair since there are SIM card hold rejects too often. Great pin.

I think your scores are double what they should be.

I would consider a "good" game to get you to conquering mars, which puts in you in the 15-18 billion range.

RTU nets you 10 billion (5 billion for the mode and 5 billion for completing it), so around 30 billion by the time you get there.

By the time you requalify RTU (which would only be a couple billion since you don't have cities to reconquer for points), and then beating RTU the second time, you are over 40 billion.

My grand champion score is 44 billion for example, ruling the universe twice, and I've done that a few times now, with the remaining high scores in the 39 - 43 billion range or so.

Considering each RTU after the first probably nets a player 15 billion, to get a score of 120 billion you are looking at RTU 7x in a game.

I know what you mean. The game has what I consider "straight" scoring. There are no score multipliers, 30x super jackpots, point exploits, etc. Like I describe in my post above, I can pretty much tell exactly how far your game went just by looking at your final score.

He is a great player.

I was watching a bit of the second video...and noticed something. If you go to 3:35, he starts his 5 way combo ->

1. Light Lock ramp
2. Right Ramp
3. Left Ramp
4. Ball Lock
5. Right Orbit (shot 2 of 3, so not completing it).

Is there a setting that allows non-completed orbit shots to continue the combo streak? On my pin, orbit shots BREAK combo streaks unless the orbits are completed (thus allowing the ball to circle around the orbit). If the ball is not allowed to circle around the orbit (i.e., gets directed to Pops instead), it breaks your streak.

Which is why my strategy for my pin is to complete the orbits first, THEN work on doing a 5 way combo. It adds a level of complexity because you need to do a 5 way combo before total annihilation, so completing orbits before completing ramps.

It would be much easier to get a 5 way combo if it allowed noncompleted orbit shots....

EDIT: I realized it re-watching the video. His 5th orbit shot DOES break the combo so he can't continue for a 6-way combo, but still counts as a 5th shot for the 5-way combo requirement. The 5th shot immediately lights the 5-way combo achievement, but the flashing combo lights stop so the 6-way combo is not possible.

I don't know about #1, but yep...#2....known issue, without a fix. Usually there is a setting that is quieter than the others.

Thanks...works fantastic! Easiest 5 minute mod I've done in a long time.

You absolutely sure those are mylar flipper covers? Those look like the peel and stick plastic covers I have on all my machines that is mainly just held on by static cling. If they are those, then its trivial to use a finger to take them off.

If they are mylar...then.....yikes. I'm not sure.

I think the stick on protectors are plenty good for home environment. I wouldn't want something hard like lexan there.

Yeah, I have both stern HD and invisiglass. They dull some reflections, but yeah, they are still there. The real difference, like you said..is the clarity. So clear that you don't think glass is there.

here you go ->

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/attack-from-mars-remake-afmr-owners-club/page/148#post-5233027