I’m not exaggerating when I say it’s a night and day difference. I have so much more control over the ball. And what’s the worst that can happen, if you don’t like them you’re out only a few bucks.

The fact that replacing a burnt LED required a technician is a major design flaw. I am one of those go can work with tiny SMB, which is the reason I'm very concerned. It's actually a major deal breaker too, as other have mentioned, so if this is the case, and a technician is required to use special equipment to change a bulb, it will affect the bottom line for certain. Now that I know there is no reasonable answer to this design flaw, I will also stay away from getting any other remakes, and stick to getting a super-nice original.

Not having tried them all I can’t give an answer and even if I did you might not like what I like. Having said that, for me the Titans are a vast improvement over the stock flipper rubbers. As for balls, mine have held up well so far but I bought the Ninja balls from Ball Baron for when they need replacing, balls after all need periodic replacement.

I'm fairly certain all of the new machines from Stern and JJP have this design point as well (DI photo below). Not defending it...simply pointing out the remakes aren't unique in this regard. Still think there are advantages of super-nice originals...but that's a deeper discussion.

snaroff

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It's good to know it's not unique to the remakes, but I wish there was a better solution other than referring people to a qualified technician. I want something that I can keep and work on for years to come, and thought I had found that in the remakes. The good news is my attention is on my TNA which is all about being modular, but still would be into the remakes if there was not this flaw in the design. I'm not worried about the PCB or Pics as they pop right in, but it's just a nagging, unnecessary concern. I tried hard to be a remake collector.

Why are you so concerned about this aspect? It’s not like owners are having issues with LEDs that need replacement. These are long life LEDs and should not need replacement in home use.

If you are going to be a pinball collector, you will need to know qualified techs. Bottom line. With originals, the most common board that needs rebuilding are the power driver boards. Fortunately, lots of folks are skilled at refurbishing various Power Driver boards. Last year, I had to rebuild my GNR and AFM power driver boards. Cost was low, since a collector friend offered to do it for me. $70 each IIRC? If you have a pro do it, could cost $200?

Even though these LED boards are fairly new, I imagine they will be less of a maintenance issue than power boards. With AFMr as a guide, the solenoid/power boards have already been proven to be a headache to some owners. Haven't heard about any issues with LED boards. Do you currently have an issue?

snaroff

Is this not a legitimate question? Why should I not be concerned about this aspect, I just want to understand the logic that has gone into the design. Home use or route, they will burn just as much. At 8 hours per day, that is 15 years max life for all the LEDs in the pin. I guess that is far enough of a kick down the road for it not to be a problem today. Is what I mentioned inaccurate in any way? Most manufacturers claim '20,000' hours, but no 3rd party tests have been done, and the life of a good LED should be milliions of hours. The fact is, due to the cheap electronics coming from china, LEDs fail, and there are known cases of bad batches. My guess is this LED problem will surface sooner or later.

I didn’t say it wasn’t a legitimate question. I feel that the risk is extremely low. I have my game in home use. These LEDs will likely last for decades. I don’t think that the LEDs are going to be an issue. There are FETs and other common through hole components that I feel will be an issue with this game (and all pinball games) in the long term because it’s Pinball and things happen!

I am sorry you felt I was doubting your question. Absolutely not the case. I am doubting that it’s a serious issue now, or that it would be hard to rectify later. It’s a beautiful game and it you wanted an AFM, this is a really great way to get one, especially with the LE upgrades.

I really should do a thread on how to SM solder; it’s not harder than through hole. But most folks around here feel that it is.

Marc

I'm curious, what do you base the lifespan on? There are so many factors involved, but most important I think is how the LEDs are driven. What if the glowing simulation actually puts more strain on the LEDs? For example, a bad PWM can kill flippers coils if not done right? I'm just wondering and asking and that is what I meant about not legitimate, or do not be concerned... I just like to base my findings on facts and have a tough time understanding how these LEDs won't be a problem. I realize the design cannot be changed, and that the LEDs will likely take years to fail in most cases, unless there was a bad batch.

Fair questions. I simply cannot answer the testing aspect of it. Basing it only on a few factors, one of them being this lamp design is shared with MMR which has been robust and has been out for a number of years now. I don’t work for CGC and don’t see every issue, but I do see a lot on the forums and the lamps haven’t been an issue. Maybe it will be; but usually issues start to pop up as the games get quantity and that hasn’t happened at all with lamps.

Excellent points. I guess I just need to get my head around the fact that they are not bulbs and that for this design, not easily replaceable but like you said, other stuff will fail too, and I personally can fix a surface mount LED just as easily as a FET or other component, so I'm realizing this is not going to be an issue for ME, so I'm changing my mind I was putting myself in the shoes of someone who cannot fix it themselves and seeing it as a negative, but in reality, if many fail, I will be a plus for me really since I can whip out the small soldering tip and magnifying glass and fix it in 10 seconds. If there are used ones around in 15 years with burnt LEDs, I'll get a deal and fix them myself. Also, if newer/better LEDs come out in let say 10 years, I can upgrade them myself etc, so all good.

That’s a super good way to think about it. I just think you’ll love the game, it’s bright and beautiful and they just did an awesome job on it, plus AFM is perfect pinball.

Marc

It's my first pinball, and I really do love it. I play each day... I'm asking all this because I want to get more over the long run and the LED design was temporarily keeping me away from getting a MMr in Feb when they do a small batch. I know I sound like Cartman from South Park about the LEDs, but just was 'curious, kay'.

I will respect your authority MMR is fantastic as well; had mine since early 2015 when they bagan to ship and haven’t had anything big come up other than a flipper coil bracket bolt being loose which took two seconds to fix and my damsel shot needed adjustment after 2 years.

Highly reccommend the Titan Competition Silicone rubbers. I was using Superbands I tried the Titans and noticed much more control for trapping and switching

Here is a video of my interactive lighted
Flipper buttons

Hey Scott, the buttons look great! Maybe my next project ...though the player (me) will never really get to see the effect. Cool, nonetheless!

Can you take a quick snapshot inside the cabinet to show how/where you attached the RGB lighting? Or, were these RGB buttons?

Sure Mark Here ya go.

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Perfect. Looks easy enough!

Thanks!

Good stuff,finally a post about new stuff not conplaints. Awesome work

The trick here is how to mount the strips. They are tied into the cabinet lighting. The clear buttons I got on Ebay 6 bucks. If you have a couple of pieces left over from your cabinet lighting just solder the wires on. I had some old flipper lighting boards that I converted into bolt on mounts for the strips.

Thanks, I thought we needed something a little more enlighting!

Yeah there’s been a lot of complaining. I’ve had some problems with mine that will hopefully soon be resolved but in the meantime the game is still playable. It’s beautiful, a blast and I love it. No regrets on selling a couple pins I liked to be able to buy this.

Total change of conversation. Right in the centre of this shot is what I can best describe as a hexagonal riser with an open top thread. It can be easily unskrewed but seems to serve no purpose. Any ideas what this is. Is something missing.

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Not missing anything. It's just to prevent ball hangs..

The nice thing about that post, You can use it to mount aliens! I mounted one of my Alien additions there so it would look like he was crawling up the scoop.

Maybe pick up some oversized screws at the hardware store. One thing you might try is some blue Locktite Fill the holes then run the screws in. Once it solidifies it should keep them from backing out. You could also use some wood epoxy.

Bummer. You should take a photo and submit a ticket. If you did not cause it, it's CGC's responsibility to help you.

snaroff

I'm glad you aren't scared, but this isn't an "old car". Your last question is exactly why you should submit a ticket. If you contact them, you can ask them. None of us on Pinside will be able to answer your question with any certainty.

snaroff

Hey at least you had two screws. I went to do the ramp adjustment last night and realized that the right screw head is missing. Factory sheared it off during assembly. Only the left screw holding the ramp in.

Good plan! Yeah way different issue. My first reaction would be to drill out the screws but they might get too hot and start burning the wood.

Move up higher 1/4 inch. No one will ever know

On second look a Dremel could just cut slots. Then remove them with a standard screw driver (tweaker)

Hey guys I finally got my AFMR LE. Freaking ano one had a mazing machine! Especially the topper. Anyways, I couldn't find a limited edition certificate like my other machines come with, does it come with one?
Thanks
Mo

Great. For me, aligning the coil had a more positive impact than fiddling with the ramp.

snaroff

Mine didn't. The cool emblem on the apron is certification.

snaroff

Cool thanks, I guess I haven't really looked at that area, I'll check it out when I get home
thanks
Mo

It must be tough manufacturing these things and getting everything perfect. I can imagine just getting good reliable workers who have patience and attention to produce quality products is easier said than done. Maybe they should have 1 reliable quality assurance worker going over an inspection checklist before boxing, taking 1 or more pictures above and bellow the playfield of key areas, signing and dating the inspection checklist and including a copy in the box. It would save CGC time and money in support for sure.

I change the targets to the original ones. What a difference in looking and gameplay. Didn’t have so much airballs as before.

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Correct. The apron is the LE credentials.

I agree. And this is a great machine and most the issues seem to be fixable. With that said I find it disturbing that it’s the same issue plaguing most people, the ball launch issue. You’d think they would have addressed this and I think the problem is more widespread than was let on.

its only causing issues to those in the second batch, first batch was problem free from what I can see.