Completely agree......on to the next topic...

New topic.

I have never made the 5-way combo

I am just not that good of a player it seems! Never ruled the universe either. One day, but it’s why I keep pressing start. Love this game!

"Missed me, haha"...is one of the best callouts! Never get tired of hearing it. Wish more pinball callouts were that clever...

I've ruled the universe ~10 times in 7 years...total rush. The 5-way combo is tough...

snaroff

I have only done the 5 way a couple of times. ( i'm not a great player either) one of the 5 ways was an 8 way. I guess I was just on that day. Never RTU yet. Not even close. Got the missed me call out for the first time today. Had the last alien right next to SOL and it went into SOL instead. Very cool that there is a subroutine in the software for that. It shows the brilliance of the code!

Yep. Very cool that today was the first time! It's one example of why AFM is one of the all time greats...the code is elegant, clever and the rules are straightforward. It's challenging and entertaining. One of my problems with some of the newer games is they can be overly complex, brutal, and take themselves a bit too seriously (i.e. no humor). I've always found B/W titles more entertaining in general...

snaroff

Agreed! So I have been trying out the cow routine. (what I call it) When you beam up the cow and you have to repeatedly hit the launch button to get the mooing. I cannot for the life of me keep from losing the ball when I do that! Anyone know any tricks?

I haven’t been able to do it either. I’ve managed to restart the game though. I also don’t know what the missed call out could be. While we’re at it, full disclosure I’ve never ruled the universe. Maybe in 2018!

Yes, SOLID wood can expand and contract significantly but that has far more to do with humidity than temperature. Solid wood can and does absorb and loose moisture with changes in humidity which causes the wood the expand or shrink accordingly. But plywood is dimensionally stable, relatively speaking, due to the way it’s manufactured. The “plys” are stacked with the grain at right angles to one another and are held together by a significant amount of glue which keeps the expansion and contraction to a minimum.

I agree completely! There is a certain charm to AFM and other classic B/W titles like MM and MB. There is a lot of tongue-in-cheek humor that is very appealing. The games don’t take themselves too seriously (look at all the cow humor) and are easy to understand and pure fun. It’s almost as if you can tell the design teams were confident and enjoying their work. Modern games are nice but in my opinion don’t have that same vibe.

Same problem, hope CGC gets a fix soon, no fun having a new machine sit broken

That's the Sacred Cow man! You don't know about the Sacred Cow? There is a cow in every W/B Game... Somewhere. Some games they hide in code as Easter Eggs. But you will find them somewhere in the game. I'ts Tradition! I'ts an Illinois thing.

No It should come out of there clean ever time. Normally I would tell you to turn up the coil strength for that poper but CGC wants all the games to be at Default settings right now because they have a new code update for the coil adjustments coming. Just make sure that coil is set to default. Wait just a bit til they get the update out to do any adjusting on the coil strength.

I have an LE and an LE Star Wars, CG has a great value proposition for buying the LE and the small price is worth it. The Stern SW LE was a complete raping for the privilege of an LE Designation IMHO. I bought is for my own reason but was not happy, Sheesh not even a 30 buck shaker! If it even cost them 30 bucks. First thing I bought, it feels kind of insulting. Will love to get it yet again when and if they release their r2d2 topper.

I dont see the discussion here, for 750 you want the topper, then buy the LE. They made a 1000 of them. You would not get the topper seperate for anything less than 400.00 so 350 is holding you up on 8000?

The topper discussion is perplexing. LEs are still available for purchase. If you want the topper, buy an LE. It's likely going to cost much more to add the mini saucer lights and topper (they are not going to be selling it anyway) later. It's a better deal to just buy the LE.

I reached attack Mars for the second time since ive owned this game and failed. How many shots does it take to blow up Mars? I had the planet down to just a few chunks before the ball drained leaving me drenched in foul language. I've been playing the crap out of this driven to get RTU. This game is crazy addictive. It lets you get so close to winning and then steals it away forcing you to press start again for another try.

10 shots to blow up Mars, but it isn't like the
other cities, shots to the saucer targets don't count, only shots to the saucer scoop count towards the 10. You can activate a multiball to make it safer, but I honestly feel better just getting the timing down to hit it ten times in a row since it returns it to the left flipper every time....plus you get to see the awesome ending if you beat it in single ball play.

This is a wonderfully worded description! Ha Ha

If that's the left popper, yes I've had this since I received the machine. Sometimes it can pop out first or second times, others it can take 5 or 6.Theres no consistency to it all, I've raised a ticked for it and had some advice from Lloyd - check for anything bent or obviously not right, couldn't see anything and I've tried different popper strengths (again suggested by Lloyd) but the issue remains, he's going to discuss with one of the engineers.

I would suggest a ticket, thought I was the only one....

Interestingly the SOL popper always ejects first time but increasingly delivers straight down the middle, I saw someone else had that problem, again no consistency to this either. Very odd.

I had this problem on my original after it's restoration years ago. All it needed was a VUK (vertical-up-kick) adjustment. Since the black chute is longer than the SOL vuk, it's more finicky (in terms of precisely where the ball hits). I'll let CGC reps advise you on how to adjust it, however it shouldn't be a big deal.

snaroff

Thanks, that's good to know.

I have the same issue. Sometimes it takes two attempts for the ball to come out. Today was the first time it took a third try to get out.

Is it possible to set the original dots on afmrle?

I do not believe so, no.

For anyone else interested, I started a new thread for technical discussion ONLY, i'm tired of reading 200 posts on the topper. This thread is for all things related to AFMr, and that's great, i just want to see a smaller thread on just technical issues and solutions. So i created one specific for that to help narrow things down for people looking for that type of information.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/attack-from-mars-remake-afmr-technical-thread#post-4156557

So now this thread is only for non technical discussions and the other thread is technical? I feel like this just splinters the group and makes it more difficult to get technical questions answered unless they are posted in both threads depending on who is reading which.

The tech thread is helpful. Thanks for creating that thread.

I agree, however this thread is so long/diverse that it's actually hard to find the salient technical problems/solutions.

Would be nice if the other thread could reference some of the help in this thread.

snaroff

Didn’t say that at all, but I don’t feel people need to dig through 200 in a couple days posts to find technical info.

I’m happy to link back to relevant technical stuff.

Just trying to help nothing more.

There needs to be a dedicated topper thread...I just got mine today! However, topper isn't working right. I copied this from CGC and I'm having the exact same problem. Any ideas?

Alien topper does not work correctly. All connections are plugged in and verified. Only the alien eyes and the led strip that lights the front of the alien light. The motor, flashers, saucer lights, and city led strips do not work. However right at start up the saucer lights on the topper will spin/light once then never again while game is on. During topper test, neither the motor, city lights, mini saucers, flasher test, Martian test... nothing works. All fuses seem good and have four green lights lite on the topper board.

Pull that little 3 amp fuse out of the topper control board and make 100 percent sure that it is still good. The topper board will still have green LEDs lit even when the fuse blows, but the Martian shaker motor will not work. My Machine blew that fuse for some unknown reason.... I replaced the fuse and have not had any further problems with the Martian shaker motor.

It’s looking like it’s a board issue.

#763 reporting for duty! Besides topper issues above, I have the same airball, launching, and rattling glass many have reported. Only been playing around with the topper at the moment.

C0D37129-01A2-4873-BA94-74EF905874D2 (resized).jpeg

45C7AA75-359C-4882-9FA6-C48F7CD59CB4 (resized).jpeg

Miknan your left flipper is drooping just like mine was based on that photo.

I was getting frustrated with this machine a lot lately because it felt like I couldn’t control the ball very well which led to some really disappointing games. I was really not liking the flipper rubber, it was extremely hard to control the ball because it bounced way too much and it created a bunch of unpredictable spin. I ordered the complete set of Titan rubbers more or less because I liked the looks but hadn’t got around to swapping them out. But tonight out of desperation I decided to do a quick change of the flipper rubbers. What a night and day difference. I can actually control the ball now, what a novel concept. I played a couple of games and I felt so much more in control, the second game I was back on the leaderboard for the first time in a while. I love the Titans, I’m glad I gave them a try.

Thx for pointing that out! I was wondering about that. I'll blame that for my terrible play! I've read this whole thread while waiting for mine and remember reading that about yours but this thread has become so huge it's become difficult to find the relevant part of the thread you want. Somebody suggested taking notes but I thought it'd be easy to find things if I went back. Should of made notes with a thread # next to it. But I like the idea of the technical issues above which I didn't see when I posted my issue. Right now I just want my topper working.

Which flipper rubbers are the best ones for me to get, and also, should I get better balls than the ones that came with it?

Thanks

Put in my ticket for the Topper and ball launch issues. Already got back to me. Said they’ve seen this issue on recent machines and are sending me a new PIC 2.0, whatever that is. Also sent PDF on ball alignment and bending that metal part.

you can turn colourisation off in the CGC menu - maybe that does it?

Neil.

look at the key posts. Adding another thread was just mental.

Neil.

Everyone will give you a different answer. I personally like the feel of standard black rubber. I like the look of Titans, but find they feel slightly different, and not sure I like that. I put them on my MMR, and took them off after a few games.

can you share the PDF please?

Neil.

Haven’t tried that. Good suggestion; I’ll try when I get home.

Cool, thanks.

Another question: Those LEDs are soldered directly onto the PCB right? LEDs often fail in 'batches' so even if there are 3 LEDs running at 20%, if 1 goes, there is a chance all 3 will, and others on the game. I'm super-curious to find out exactly what the strategy is in replacing LEDs on remakes. I see PICs and other uCs being shipped to the customers, but will a full PCB need to be shipped if LEDs go out? Again, having 2 LEDs boost their power to make up for 1 failed LED in the group of 3 will not help, as often LEDs burn out due to manufacturing issues and not a 'faulty' single LED. The most important issue though is in the long run, the LEDs will expire at the same rate, so again, having 2 make up for 1 going out won't help, all LEDs will need to be replaced... This to me is a design issue that has not been cleared up, maybe because it IS an major issue and there is no good answer? Scott over at TNA made all his LEDs modular and replaceable. I've asked CGC with no answer.

Yup, this is one of the reasons why I considered getting an original MM.

It will likely be the one game that I will keep forever and for that reason I thought having something that is time-tested and serviceable would be a better option.

Who knows. Maybe I'll sell my LE and chip in a little extra money and get an HEP original.

The LEDs are surface mount soldered to the board. Don’t overthink this; lots of technicians in the world who can easily replace a surface mount component. If in the unlikely event that all theee burn out, buy new LEDs and have a qualified tech replace them.

Can you send me the pdf , please ?

PM me your email addresses.

LTG : )

Long IC you exchange with the one on the driver board in the head.

LTG : )

I might give this a shot then, I too am kind of annoyed at how impossible it is to trap/catch the ball...I'll trap it and then watch it suddenly fly off in a random direction from a crazy amount of spin that it got from it touching the flipper.