Attack From Mars Remake (AFMr) Owners Club

(Topic ID: 192072)

Attack From Mars Remake (AFMr) Owners Club


By Pin_Guy

1 year ago



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#2201 1 year ago

All look on the CGC thread but Doug just advised everyone with AFMr to put their flipper rating back to default...

AFMR ONLY:
As I mentioned to a customer on the phone today, when it comes to service, we don’t necessarily have all the answers. As we move forward, it takes a collection of service tickets before we can piece together a trend that then leads to a resolution. In all cases, we at CGC are committed to correcting these concerns. We discovered a software glitch in the PIC that controls our solenoid driver board. While you might try setting down the power on your flippers, the fact remains that these settings are currently having little to no change on the flippers. Our software team has already corrected the problem, and we are testing the new software with a few select customers. Before we do any massive distribution, we want to thoroughly test the update. This might take a few more weeks, and we ask that you be patient as we start to distribute the PIC’s. In the meantime, there will be NO need for you to enter a service ticket at this time in order to obtain the update. Please wait for further instructions. However, we are going to ask that all customers immediately return their software settings to DEFAULT. We have found that if you are using the lower range of settings that it is likely that you will blow one of the FET’s on the Solenoid Driver Board.

#2202 1 year ago

I put mine back on defalt a few days ago as the adjustments did not seem to be making a difference so this confirms it thanks for the update

#2203 1 year ago
Quoted from abagwell:

I submitted a ticket with CGC for my flipper position issue and also mentioned my shooter issue, CGC sent me a PDF with instructions for bending that shooter lane ramp so I guess that is the established fix at this point for the issue.

No, But I think I have finally got what was causing my issue. After getting the alignment vertically with the plunger on the ball (by Bending slightly on the bracket), I was still getting an erratic ball launch (ball seemed to just wobble off the top of the shooter ramp). I removed the metal ramp at the end of the shooter lane (yes the one with the rivets). I determined that my ball wasn't hitting the rivets it was jumping too high off of that metal ramp. My ramp has a small crease about three quarters up where the ramp goes from an angle to flat. That crease was acting like a speed bump making the ball jump off the ramp instead of rolling off causing the erratic ball behavior entering the top of the playfield. I just smoothed that out with counter bend (opposite way as the crease)
Now the ball rolls off the ramp like should when its shot. IMHO I would try this before redrilling any holes and repositioning that ramp. My balls are launching correctly now at high setting. Thread 1866

#2204 1 year ago
Quoted from whthrs166:

My balls are launching correctly now at high setting.

Ummm, too much info.

#2205 1 year ago

Agreed!

#2206 1 year ago
Quoted from whthrs166:

No, But I think I have finally got what was causing my issue. After getting the alignment vertically with the plunger on the ball (by Bending slightly on the bracket), I was still getting an erratic ball launch (ball seemed to just wobble off the top of the shooter ramp). I removed the metal ramp at the end of the shooter lane (yes the one with the rivets). I determined that my ball wasn't hitting the rivets it was jumping too high off of that metal ramp. My ramp has a small crease about three quarters up where the ramp goes from an angle to flat. That crease was acting like a speed bump making the ball jump off the ramp instead of rolling off causing the erratic ball behavior entering the top of the playfield. I just smoothed that out with counter bend (opposite way as the crease)
Now the ball rolls off the ramp like should when its shot. IMHO I would try this before redrilling any holes and repositioning that ramp. My balls are launching correctly now at high setting. Thread 1866

Yes; do not re-drill or move that ramp. It’s in the correct position. Good work on the bend.

#2207 1 year ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

All look on the CGC thread but Doug just advised everyone with AFMr to put their flipper rating back to default...
AFMR ONLY:
As I mentioned to a customer on the phone today, when it comes to service, we don’t necessarily have all the answers. As we move forward, it takes a collection of service tickets before we can piece together a trend that then leads to a resolution. In all cases, we at CGC are committed to correcting these concerns. We discovered a software glitch in the PIC that controls our solenoid driver board. While you might try setting down the power on your flippers, the fact remains that these settings are currently having little to no change on the flippers. Our software team has already corrected the problem, and we are testing the new software with a few select customers. Before we do any massive distribution, we want to thoroughly test the update. This might take a few more weeks, and we ask that you be patient as we start to distribute the PIC’s. In the meantime, there will be NO need for you to enter a service ticket at this time in order to obtain the update. Please wait for further instructions. However, we are going to ask that all customers immediately return their software settings to DEFAULT. We have found that if you are using the lower range of settings that it is likely that you will blow one of the FET’s on the Solenoid Driver Board.

So, in essence the flippers are over powering the driver boards?

#2208 1 year ago

So this was one of my complaints with the flipper power and did not seem that it was being adjusted when I even put it to min flipper power. I just recently noticed that i have tons of ball dimples all over the playfield due to the air balls non stop. Even with the flipper setting set to min. And leveled at 7.2 degrees I still get the air balls. So I will be setting the flipper strength back to default like told by cgc but my question is now that my playfield has dimples/damage all over the place what/How will this be fixed. New playfield probably not. Kinda disappointed that I paid this kind of money and I have dimples all over the playfield.

10
#2209 1 year ago

Steel ball on wood.. every pin has hundreds of dimples, don't sweat it. Play on

#2210 1 year ago
Quoted from eagleeyemma:

So this was one of my complaints with the flipper power and did not seem that it was being adjusted when I even put it to min flipper power. I just recently noticed that i have tons of ball dimples all over the playfield due to the air balls non stop. Even with the flipper setting set to min. And leveled at 7.2 degrees I still get the air balls. So I will be setting the flipper strength back to default like told by cgc but my question is now that my playfield has dimples/damage all over the place what/How will this be fixed. New playfield probably not. Kinda disappointed that I paid this kind of money and I have dimples all over the playfield.

Dimples are completely normal. All playfields have dimples. If there are enough they start to merge together so the playfield actually looks smooth.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/playfield-dimple-reality-check

#2211 1 year ago

Not this dimple crap again.....

#2212 1 year ago
Quoted from pintechev:

Yes; do not re-drill or move that ramp. It’s in the correct position. Good work on the bend.

Each game is based on how it was manufactured and they all have variance. Mine clearly was to not centered and to the left, you could see it with the naked eye and by where the rivet was striking the ball. Once centered .... EVERY launch and I mean every single one after the process fires the ball on the skill shot like a rocket and not like a lazy loop or misfire.

As I stated in the original post this may not be the case in all games. Two other pinsiders contacted me and did the exact procedure I gave in my response. Thats 3 for 3 in my book.

Pics are after reposition.

E10683FE-25A1-4524-A4F7-76A03A9F01EB (resized).jpeg
E3056E71-D3B2-4D21-9BF6-CF7484BFF4A4 (resized).jpeg

#2213 1 year ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

While you might try setting down the power on your flippers, the fact remains that these settings are currently having little to no change on the flippers.

Not so sure about that. My airballs are pretty must resolved by turning flippers down to -5 or more. I was playing at -10 the last month or so, and I barely get 5 billion on a good game, and find it hard to get a 5-way combo.

Turned it back to default tonight after reading your post, and on my second game I got RTU with a new GC of 41B!

Pretty clear to me that dialing up the flipper strength made it easier to hit shots consistently. So not sure what CGC is saying here.

#2214 1 year ago
Quoted from abagwell:

I have mine at -18, wasn't having any issues making shots, though I always feel like the 5way is such a crap shoot, especially if you are trying to alternate ramps. I try and mix in a lock when I'm going for it to give myself a break or wait until my orbits are open. Also I was looking at the original AFMs high scores on here and people were saying that they "3x RTU'd", but after I finished RTU the game didn't reset. It just stayed with every city lit solid, Mars was flashing, and the saucer drop bank stayed down with the back target up. Every hit on that target for the rest of my game gave me 100M. I had several balls left after I RTU'd and this never changed...how are you supposed to 3x RTU or was that something they changed in this remake somehow?

When I completed RTU tonight, it awarded me 5 billion. The countries stayed lit, but the green objectives reset. I completed everything again except Martian Multiball, but I assume that after that it would've just been a matter of hitting the RTU scoop???

Can anyone shed some light. I finished RTU on ball 2, and had my third ball and two extra balls left. Blew two balls just trying to hit the RTU scoop!

Too bad, as they would have come in handy for getting to that second RTU!

#2215 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

When I completed RTU tonight, it awarded me 5 billion. The countries stayed lit, but the green objectives reset. I completed everything again except Martian Multiball, but I assume that after that it would've just been a matter of hitting the RTU scoop???
Can anyone shed some light. I finished RTU on ball 2, and had my third ball and two extra balls left. Blew two balls just trying to hit the RTU scoop!
Too bad, as they would have come in handy for getting to that second RTU!

Thats correct .... heres a video of the original for you.

#2216 1 year ago

Hi all, Just set up my AFTr LE, After having approximately 20 games on it the Left flipper stopped working. I have checked the flipper return spring, fuse, as well as making sure all wires are connected properly. I have no Idea what the problem could be. Any help would be appreciated.Flipper strength was set at -22

#2217 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

Not so sure about that. My airballs are pretty must resolved by turning flippers down to -5 or more. I was playing at -10 the last month or so, and I barely get 5 billion on a good game, and find it hard to get a 5-way combo.
Turned it back to default tonight after reading your post, and on my second game I got RTU with a new GC of 41B!
Pretty clear to me that dialing up the flipper strength made it easier to hit shots consistently. So not sure what CGC is saying here.

Ahhh thanks for the clarification on the RTU. As for the flipper strength, calling BS on CGC saying that it has no effect. There is a massive difference between default and -18, and if I set them to Min my flippers barely even move. Setting them back to default for now regardless though so my machine doesn't explode(that saucer destruction effect is super realistic!).

#2218 1 year ago
Quoted from Mark000:

Hi all, Just set up my AFTr LE, After having approximately 20 games on it the Left flipper stopped working. I have checked the flipper return spring, fuse, as well as making sure all wires are connected properly. I have no Idea what the problem could be. Any help would be appreciated.

My flipper stopped working after 20 games as well...blown fuse & solenoid board. Make sure you checked the correct fuse. If the fuse is blown, the board is likely damaged and will need replacement. File a CGC ticket.

If it's not the fuse/solenoid board, I guess I'd make sure the flipper button is working in test mode...

snaroff

#2219 1 year ago

Flipper strength was set at -22

#2220 1 year ago
Quoted from eagleeyemma:

So this was one of my complaints with the flipper power and did not seem that it was being adjusted when I even put it to min flipper power. I just recently noticed that i have tons of ball dimples all over the playfield due to the air balls non stop. Even with the flipper setting set to min. And leveled at 7.2 degrees I still get the air balls. So I will be setting the flipper strength back to default like told by cgc but my question is now that my playfield has dimples/damage all over the place what/How will this be fixed. New playfield probably not. Kinda disappointed that I paid this kind of money and I have dimples all over the playfield.

Same here after 2nd day of playing this awesome game i find airballs occuring on every game especially after hitting the 2 green standup targets. The playfield looked amazing with a glass finish out of the box even better clearcoat than my mmr but has been battered with over 500 dimples everywhere already. Timber is not the issue. Clearcoat must be a thicker softer finish which is probably a good thing to avoid cracking chipping etc if it was harder. Flippers had to bet set to -15 but after reading post from cgc will set to default again.
Just want to know that this is normal since ive had over 10 nib pinnies but this one takes the cake in clearcoat dimples after one day.
If anyone can confirm that clearcoat coats and finish on this machine has been changed , increased and improved from previous game i can sleep better.
Is it just my game or all have the same issue?

#2221 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

My flipper stopped working after 20 games as well...blown fuse & solenoid board. Make sure you checked the correct fuse. If the fuse is blown, the board is likely damaged and will need replacement. File a CGC ticket.
If it's not the fuse/solenoid board, I guess I'd make sure the flipper button is working in test mode...
snaroff

Thanks for your reply. I will send a ticket

#2222 1 year ago
Quoted from abagwell:

Ahhh thanks for the clarification on the RTU. As for the flipper strength, calling BS on CGC saying that it has no effect. There is a massive difference between default and -18, and if I set them to Min my flippers barely even move. Setting them back to default for now regardless though so my machine doesn't explode(that saucer destruction effect is super realistic!).

Mine also made a big difference and barley moved on minimum. Set back to default for now untill I hear further.

#2223 1 year ago

Let's face it, the fact that so many owners were forced to dial down the flipper strength is highly unusual, and I'm surprised it doesn't get more airplay.

I've owned many machines and I've never had to fiddle with the flipper strength software settings. Having settings to fine-tune the pinball is one thing...being forced to use them to keep the ball on the PF/ramps is another thing. Hopefully CGC can dial in the default flipper setting so it actually works for most games.

snaroff

#2224 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Let's face it, the fact that so many owners were forced to dial down the flipper strength is highly unusual, and I'm surprised it doesn't get more airplay.
I've owned many machines and I've never had to fiddle with the flipper strength software settings. Having settings to fine-tune the pinball is one thing...being forced to use them to keep the ball on the PF/ramps is another thing. Hopefully CGC can dial in the default flipper setting so it actually works for most games.
snaroff

I, for one, have not had this problem. My build date is 8-1. My flippers have stayed at -2 and the game play has had few air balls (what I would consider normal based on my other games) The balls stay on the ramps (especially that perfect lock enable shot)
I have noticed the dimpling on the pf and considered it normal. ( a non issue for me)

#2225 1 year ago

I tried leaving it on default though I was getting to many air balls. I just read an earlier thread on leaving the settings on default as lowering the settings could cause damage to the solenoid driver board. Wish I had of read that earlier.

#2226 1 year ago
Quoted from Mark000:

I tried leaving it on default though I was getting to many air balls. I just read an earlier thread on leaving the settings on default as lowering the settings could cause damage to the solenoid driver board. Wish I had of read that earlier.

Yeah we need to keep this subject fresh here on the owner's thread so everyone can "Get the Memo" Hate seeing owners losing there Solenoid Driver Board over this!

#2227 1 year ago

Totally agree just frustrated now I cant get more games in on this awesome pinball.

#2228 1 year ago
Quoted from JJHLH:

Dimples are completely normal. All playfields have dimples. If there are enough they start to merge together so the playfield actually looks smooth.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/playfield-dimple-reality-check

Never owned a nib pin so good to know and this is a great read. I just get a crap load of airballs and noticed the dimples so o kinda was like wow. Thanks for posting this bc it make me feel better knowing that I got my money worth and on a side note cgc has been awesome to deal with.

#2229 1 year ago
Quoted from whthrs166:

I, for one, have not had this problem. My build date is 8-1. My flippers have stayed at -2 and the game play has had few air balls (what I would consider normal based on my other games) The balls stay on the ramps (especially that perfect lock enable shot)
I have noticed the dimpling on the pf and considered it normal. ( a non issue for me)

Nice to hear your machine is working properly. My build date was 12/6. Have no idea what electronics could have changed in 4 months. Whatever it is, I'm hopeful CGC will eventually get to the bottom of it. Here is a 14 second slo-motion video of the crazy lock shot behavior I was experiencing:

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0dJ8GySPJtcUnf;0A92F53F-00CC-476E-9E79-0D62C8C6EFB7

snaroff

#2230 1 year ago

You guys that went with the Titan Competition Silicone Rings, What have been your experiences? I went from Super Bands (on the flippers). I have noticed: Increased power on the flip (must be due to more grab on the ball), Increase control (definitely better grab on a spinning ball) , Less bounce back (from a different rubber compound that doesn't allow the ball to bounce over the slings to the drains) and better accuracy( I just seem to hit the ramps with more accuracy). The one shot that seems to be less reliable is lock shot.

#2231 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Nice to hear your machine is working properly. My build date was 12/6. Have no idea what electronics could have changed in 4 months. Whatever it is, I'm hopeful CGC will eventually get to the bottom of it. Here is a 14 second slo-motion video of the crazy lock shot behavior I was experiencing:
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0dJ8GySPJtcUnf;0A92F53F-00CC-476E-9E79-0D62C8C6EFB7
snaroff

I've got the exact same thing happening with mine. I've got an active ticket with CGC, still waiting for resolution, but good to hear they're on top of it.
I too played around with the flipper strength as others have, going incrementally from -5, -10, -15 and -20, with no noticeable change to fix this ramp jump and lots of air balls. Returned it default and patiently waiting for a fix.

#2232 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Let's face it, the fact that so many owners were forced to dial down the flipper strength is highly unusual, and I'm surprised it doesn't get more airplay.
I've owned many machines and I've never had to fiddle with the flipper strength software settings. Having settings to fine-tune the pinball is one thing...being forced to use them to keep the ball on the PF/ramps is another thing. Hopefully CGC can dial in the default flipper setting so it actually works for most games.
snaroff

What CGC is saying, the common denominator in all of these failures were people setting their games flippers down deep in negative territory; IE -17 through -21. What they feel may be causing these boards to fry is a software glitch essentially causing the solenoid driver board to become overpowered by the flippers (locking up the transistors and popping the fuses). These machines are having issues in conjunction with the adjustment

I'm not really that technical...but that's what I've gathered from CGCs post on the matter. There are some peoples games where the flipper power adjustment is working properly, and others are causing shorts.

Someone feel free to comment on my interpretation on their post

#2233 1 year ago
Quoted from whthrs166:

You guys that went with the Titan Competition Silicone Rings, What have been your experiences? I went from Super Bands (on the flippers). I have noticed: Increased power on the flip (must be due to more grab on the ball), Increase control (definitely better grab on a spinning ball) , Less bounce back (from a different rubber compound that doesn't allow the ball to bounce over the slings to the drains) and better accuracy( I just seem to hit the ramps with more accuracy). The one shot that seems to be less reliable is lock shot.

I noticed the same when i switched to superbands

#2234 1 year ago
Quoted from eagleeyemma:

Never owned a nib pin so good to know and this is a great read. I just get a crap load of airballs and noticed the dimples so o kinda was like wow. Thanks for posting this bc it make me feel better knowing that I got my money worth and on a side note cgc has been awesome to deal with.

No problem. Vid’s post made me feel better as well. Dimples are a non-issue and completely normal. Vid posted this photo of an original AFM playfield with a sea of 1,000,000 dimples. Nothing to be concerned about.

AF906F5F-24BF-4386-9F40-A6F6B5AA07DF (resized).jpeg

Quoted from MrTilt:

Is it just my game or all have the same issue?

All the games have this issue. I think it’s normal. I bought 3 nib games last year before my AFMr and it was the same with them as well.

#2235 1 year ago
Quoted from Robertstone0407:

I noticed the same when i switched to superbands

Interesting! Then maybe it's just the new rubber and it's grip on the ball. I guess if you keep your game squeaky clean, then It should stay that way.

#2236 1 year ago
Quoted from JJHLH:

No problem. Vid’s post made me feel better as well. Dimples are a non-issue and completely normal. Vid posted this photo of an original AFM playfield with a sea of 1,000,000 dimples. Nothing to be concerned about

Said this in the dimple thread and I will say it here, If you don't want dimples on a NIB game install a playfield protector. I have done it and it does work.

#2237 1 year ago

Is the cow video mode missing?

Everytime the cow is displayed I push the launch button, but there is no „muh“, As it does in the original one

#2238 1 year ago

Ya know the funny thing...... I have NEVER had someone come and buy one of my HUO games that I bought NIB and say, wait a minute.

That PF has dimples knock off 500 dollars. If they did id tell them go pound it up their @$$.

#2239 1 year ago
Quoted from hoby1:

That PF has dimples knock off 500 dollars. If they did id tell them go pound it up their @$$.

HAHA! absolutely!

#2240 1 year ago
Quoted from PinLen83:

What CGC is saying, the common denominator in all of these failures were people setting their games flippers down deep in negative territory; IE -17 through -21. What they feel may be causing these boards to fry is a software glitch essentially causing the solenoid driver board to become overpowered by the flippers (locking up the transistors and popping the fuses). These machines are having issues in conjunction with the adjustment
I'm not really that technical...but that's what I've gathered from CGCs post on the matter. There are some peoples games where the flipper power adjustment is working properly, and others are causing shorts.
Someone feel free to comment on my interpretation on their post

Correct, however my machine wasn't playable at the default flipper power. So for folks with machines like mine, restoring the default flipper power is equivalent to saying the machine won't be playable until we have a fully tested update.

The obvious related issue is this: Why do some machines play fine at default flipper power while others are virtually unplayable? Assuming all the AFMr's are running the same software, it would imply hardware malfunction of some kind. The other variable is voltage...my AC voltage is between 116 & 120. When CG was helping me and expressed concerned about my AC voltage, I purchased a device to measure it 24/7. If my AC was an issue for AFMr, it would be the outlier (since all my other machines play great).

snaroff

#2241 1 year ago

Airballs and dimples are part of Pinball.

Get an old EM without ramps if it bothers you

#2242 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Correct, however my machine wasn't playable at the default flipper power. So for folks with machines like mine, restoring the default flipper power is equivalent to saying the machine won't be playable until we have a fully tested update.

This doesn't sound right, and reducing your flipper strength is clearly not an option. All machines should have been factory tested at their default settings prior to shipping; I just have to wonder if you have a bad solder joint or connection issue that is not allowing full current to your flipper coils.

#2243 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

Pretty clear to me that dialing up the flipper strength made it easier to hit shots consistently. So not sure what CGC is saying here.

I thought the same based on my own play.

#2244 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

This doesn't sound right, and reducing your flipper strength is clearly not an option. All machines should have been factory tested at their default settings prior to shipping; I just have to wonder if you have a bad solder joint or connection issue that is not allowing full current to your flipper coils.

No idea, but if you've read many of the recent posts, dialing down the flipper strength has been a popular option for those of us with airballs and balls flying off wireforms. In addition to installing a new Solenoid Board, I installed two new flipper coils with a new wire harness and it didn't resolve the problem.

snaroff

#2245 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Nice to hear your machine is working properly. My build date was 12/6. Have no idea what electronics could have changed in 4 months. Whatever it is, I'm hopeful CGC will eventually get to the bottom of it. Here is a 14 second slo-motion video of the crazy lock shot behavior I was experiencing:
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0dJ8GySPJtcUnf;0A92F53F-00CC-476E-9E79-0D62C8C6EFB7
snaroff

That happens on mine too but only occasionally.

#2246 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

No idea, but if you've read many of the recent posts, dialing down the flipper strength has been a popular option for those of us with airballs and balls flying off wireforms. In addition to installing a new Solenoid Board, I installed two new flipper coils with a new wire harness and it didn't resolve the problem.

My gut says there are 2 issues...one hardware, one software.

First, hardware. I suspect folks with flippers on steroids (any game requiring severely dialed down flippers of -15...-25 to be playable) may have a faulty power transformer. The transformer is driving the solenoid board too hard.

Second, the software used to dial down the flipper strength is flawed and leads to Solenoid Board failure. This is what CGC appears to be working on, however the fix isn't interesting in isolation (since folks shouldn't need to severely dial down the flippers for the game to be playable).

Both of these issues seem interrelated to me.

snaroff

#2247 1 year ago

Lots of speculation here. Best to wait for CGC to do their due dliegnce and report back.

#2248 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

My gut says there are 2 issues...one hardware, one software.

Man this has got to be frustrating for you! I hope they can your game playing properly ASAP. That's a lot of repair work for a NIB.

#2249 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

My gut says there are 2 issues...one hardware, one software.
First, hardware. I suspect folks with flippers on steroids (any game requiring severely dialed down flippers of -15...-25 to be playable) may have a faulty power transformer. The transformer is driving the solenoid board too hard.
Second, the software used to dial down the flipper strength is flawed and leads to Solenoid Board failure. This is what CGC appears to be working on, however the fix isn't interesting in isolation (since folks shouldn't need to severely dial down the flippers for the game to be playable).
Both of these issues seem interrelated to me.
snaroff

Crazy....... I have played about 100 games on mine with no issues on -22. ( Knock on wood ). I did put mine back on default per CG. Just cant understand why some do and some dont. Im SURE they will work it out.

#2250 1 year ago
Quoted from hoby1:

Crazy....... I have played about 100 games on mine with no issues on -22. ( Knock on wood ). I did put mine back on default per CG. Just cant understand why some do and some dont. Im SURE they will work it out.

I went back from -22 to default as well - everything is fine except now about 3/10 times the sol pops out a weak ball and it goes STDM.
Annoying as it always ruins a good game in progress.

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