Hi All, I've had mine around a week, and love it, there's just one thing that's bothering me, the left popper takes multiple attempts before the ball is ejected. Sometimes it takes a couple of attempts but it can take up to 5 or 6, which is a bit annoying. Has anyone else had this? It's set to maximum strength in the settings. Any advice on how to rectify, or should I raise a ticket? Thanks for any advice.
Quoted from abagwell:I have mine at -18, wasn't having any issues making shots, though I always feel like the 5way is such a crap shoot, especially if you are trying to alternate ramps. I try and mix in a lock when I'm going for it to give myself a break or wait until my orbits are open. Also I was looking at the original AFMs high scores on here and people were saying that they "3x RTU'd", but after I finished RTU the game didn't reset. It just stayed with every city lit solid, Mars was flashing, and the saucer drop bank stayed down with the back target up. Every hit on that target for the rest of my game gave me 100M. I had several balls left after I RTU'd and this never changed...how are you supposed to 3x RTU or was that something they changed in this remake somehow?
-18 wow! What slant do you have your game at? I'm at 6.8 when I measure it digitally near the bottom of the slings (basically in line with the bubble).
Even at -10 I was finding the shots a bit weak. And just read that someone here is at -22 and still getting air balls. Seems like a lack of consistency in the power from game to game.
Hopefully if CGC updates the code at all, they will dial the default flipper setting to something that mimics the original better. That way when we dial up and down it's more a preference than trying to find a normal setting.
Aside from that, the game is a gem. Been playing it more than my MMR and DI which is saying a lot!
Quoted from TheMickster:You really need to plug in everything as needed, the picture you showed was missing at least two connections as required....and/or you plugged them in wrong and the machine blew a fuse. There really should not be any problems if done correctly and as documented in the manual....
I understand that there are plenty of Nu-bees here buying these NIB pinball machines, but really, read the manuals.....Starting from the front, it has a wealth of necessary information.
I tend to agree but the manual info for the topper leaves a lot to be desired!
I've been streaming AFMR all week, what a fantastic game!
I got direct video going from the machine to my streaming rig... Here are a couple of videos, one where I do a walk through of the machine and the second that shows the direct video.
still haven't managed to get a high score yet!!!
Neil
Quoted from NeilMcRae:I've been streaming AFMR all week, what a fantastic game!
I got direct video going from the machine to my streaming rig... Here are a couple of videos, one where I do a walk through of the machine and the second that shows the direct video.
» YouTube video
» YouTube video
still haven't managed to get a high score yet!!!
Neil
The game is a ball buster! Took me a while to knock off the factory GC.
I actually moved down the outlane posts to enjoy it a bit more and make it family friendly. Might move them back up to factory setting soon since most people who come over end up playing MMR or TOM.
Quoted from NeilMcRae:I tend to agree but the manual info for the topper leaves a lot to be desired!
My vendor said the same thing about the topper/manual. He had to clarify with a buddy when hooking it up because it didn't 100% match. Damien I'm pretty sure I'm at 6.8. I've been using the PinGuy app to measure on the playfield but I probably need to get a digital scale to be certain. Even at -18 I occasionally have a ball fly off the lock rail, but that only happens about 5-10% of the time.
Also this is what I was referring to when I said my left flipper seems to be higher than my right one. You can see more of the wood outline inside that black circle on the right one than on the left. Slow rolling balls still bounce when coming onto the left flipper a bit and make shots feel awkward, and this never occurs on the right flipper. Every ball that enters the right flipper goes smoothly down it with no bounce.
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Quoted from LTG:Please post on your ticket again.
LTG : )
Lloyd, posted again on my ticket right after you posted this. Last time I've heard back from anybody on my ticket is now over a week ago.
Quoted from IonRay:Lloyd, posted again on my ticket right after you posted this. Last time I've heard back from anybody on my ticket is now over a week ago.
Please PM me the ticket number.
Thank you,
Lloyd
737 delivered today and place on route. I now have 4 of the 6 pins at Token Game Tavern in Knoxville. This is now by far the best place in town for Pinball.
Topper not working fully. Only the eyes light up but nothing else. Documentation sucks. Everything is labellled but only sort of and not obvious.
Super skill shot only going around about 50% of the time.
I think this pin is gonna kill it on route.
Darin
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CGC has hinted they may offer a saucer upgrade to SE owners in the future. Not being familiar with the playfield mechs, would you anticipate that being a simple changeover ? Do the saucers simply plug in or are solder skills required?
Quoted from hoby1:Talked to Doug at CG and they are planning on making a saucer kit in the near future.
Bring it on! I will get these as soon as they drop.
Quoted from neverahighscore:Upgraded to Titan rubber, fluorescent green plastic protectors, black flipper bats. Waiting for my Cliffy's!
It looks amazing! Coincidentally I was thinking about doing that upgrade as well, obviously same color as yours!
Thanks for posting!
Regards
Quoted from Rolls-Royce:It looks amazing! Coincidentally I was thinking about doing that upgrade as well, obviously same color as yours!
Thanks for posting!
Regards
Do the Titans change the feel of the game. Pretty sure I put a pair on my MMR, and immediately took them off because it sort of slowed things down.
Your thoughts?
Quoted from IonRay:Yeah, I have no doubt that CGC will get it all worked out in the end, but for the moment it's super frustrating!
There's plenty of posts on issues from just about all manufacturers and there's a lot of parts going into these things and totally understandable that things will need to be adjusted and setup by the end user but AFM LE is supposed to be *the* machine that is perfect out of box.
I had a support issue (unpacking issue) with my afmrle and they took care of it ASAP part shipped out like lightning. I cant be more happy with their support.
Can someone please post a photo of what all the wires look like on a topper that is fully working? Much appreciated.
Darin
Quoted from neverahighscore:Upgraded to Titan rubber, fluorescent green plastic protectors, black flipper bats. Waiting for my Cliffy's!
Joe where did you get the plastic protectors from and do you have a nice pic of them in the dark .
THX Allen
For those that are having problems with the topper, is the problem not being able to connect all the wires? The reason I ask is that on mine, a couple of the connectors had a piece of plastic (like a plastic pin) blocking one of the holes. I have no idea why they came like this. I was hesitant to try and remove the plastic pin but it was obvious that the only way to connect the wires was to remove those pins. I used needle nose pliers and they didn't exactly come out easily but once out I connected everything and the topper works fine. Anybody else have these plastic pins blocking holes on their connectors?
Quoted from DngrWillRobinson:For those that are having problems with the topper, is the problem not being able to connect all the wires? The reason I ask is that on mine, a couple of the connectors had a piece of plastic (like a plastic pin) blocking one of the holes. I have no idea why they came like this. I was hesitant to try and remove the plastic pin but it was obvious that the only way to connect the wires was to remove those pins. I used needle nose pliers and they didn't exactly come out easily but once out I connected everything and the topper works fine. Anybody else have these plastic pins blocking holes on their connectors?
We had them on ours, they were removed during install and everything works fine.
Quoted from VolunteerPin:Can someone please post a photo of what all the wires look like on a topper that is fully working? Much appreciated.
Darin
Here is a picture of mine without the last plug installed. The last plug required the removal of a pin plug. But Dont look at that....look at the connection on the board...they are all labeled. Again....they are all labeled on the circuit board look closely with a flashlight and you cant mess up.
Cheers
Quoted from hoby1:Joe where did you get the plastic protectors from and do you have a nice pic of them in the dark .
Pibits sells them. Clear, green or red. No pics right now. Have the game apart for install of cliffys.
Quoted from DngrWillRobinson:For those that are having problems with the topper, is the problem not being able to connect all the wires? The reason I ask is that on mine, a couple of the connectors had a piece of plastic (like a plastic pin) blocking one of the holes. I have no idea why they came like this. I was hesitant to try and remove the plastic pin but it was obvious that the only way to connect the wires was to remove those pins. I used needle nose pliers and they didn't exactly come out easily but once out I connected everything and the topper works fine. Anybody else have these plastic pins blocking holes on their connectors?
This is the exact same way mine was, and it's what my vendor was confused and cautious about because nothing in the instructions mentions this. He figured the plastic pin had to be removed but the manual doesn't say.
Is the SOL Cliffy really necessary? The mantis protector fits perfectly.
I added the mothership Cliffy and it was definitely needed.
Quoted from adii:Is the SOL Cliffy really necessary? The mantis protector fits perfectly.
I added the mothership Cliffy and it was definitely needed.
I swapped out the mantis for a cliffy - call me paranoid but I like having the lip protection on both sides of the SOL because it gets abused hard.
Quoted from neverahighscore:Upgraded to Titan rubber, fluorescent green plastic protectors, black flipper bats. Waiting for my Cliffy's!
Anyone know what color that is on titan's site? I don't see a choice that matches it. They have one called glow, but no picture of it on the site.
Quoted from DngrWillRobinson:For those that are having problems with the topper, is the problem not being able to connect all the wires? The reason I ask is that on mine, a couple of the connectors had a piece of plastic (like a plastic pin) blocking one of the holes. I have no idea why they came like this. I was hesitant to try and remove the plastic pin but it was obvious that the only way to connect the wires was to remove those pins. I used needle nose pliers and they didn't exactly come out easily but once out I connected everything and the topper works fine. Anybody else have these plastic pins blocking holes on their connectors?
I had a plastic pin blocking one hole on a four-pin connector. It was the last one I connected (the same one Dodgey took a photo of a few posts ago) so I was sure it needed to be removed, especially after reading multiple posts here. I used my fingernail and it slid out very easily. Plugged it in and everything works fine.
Quoted from gjm7777:I swapped out the mantis for a cliffy - call me paranoid but I like having the lip protection on both sides of the SOL because it gets abused hard.
I actually put the Cliffy over the mantis on SOL.
Sounds strage I know, but the Cliffy was just a hair to small so it fitted over the mantis. Not 100% perfect but it works.
Goofy side question: what's with people flagging the reviews rated with a 10 as bogus in the Top100 rankings?
Quoted from abagwell:Goofy side question: what's with people flagging the reviews rated with a 10 as bogus in the Top100 rankings?
They don't want the greatest game ever to be rated that highly. Just my opinion of course but hard to explain it otherwise.
I submitted a ticket with CGC for my flipper position issue and also mentioned my shooter issue, CGC sent me a PDF with instructions for bending that shooter lane ramp so I guess that is the established fix at this point for the issue.
Quoted from gjm7777:I swapped out the mantis for a cliffy - call me paranoid but I like having the lip protection on both sides of the SOL because it gets abused hard.
I was considering doing that but I'm starting to think I'm changing things just for the sake of changing them. I installed the Cliffy under the mantis but the lip kept popping up so I removed it. I might try putting it over the mantis. I do like how the mantis covers the complete inside edge because I have also noticed the clearcoat likes to flake off on the edges.
Quoted from abagwell:I submitted a ticket with CGC for my flipper position issue and also mentioned my shooter issue, CGC sent me a PDF with instructions for bending that shooter lane ramp so I guess that is the established fix at this point for the issue.
Bending the shoot lane ramp is a partial solution. Hopefully the instructions mention aligning the plunger, which for me was a bigger deal.
snaroff
Quoted from snaroff:Bending the shoot lane ramp is a partial solution. Hopefully the instructions mention aligning the plunger, which for me was a bigger deal.
snaroff
Gotcha. The PDF mentions that you can move the plunger as well by loosening the screws and adjusting it. I'll play around with both this weekend and see if I can get it firing perfect.
Quoted from adii:I was considering doing that but I'm starting to think I'm changing things just for the sake of changing them. I installed the Cliffy under the mantis but the lip kept popping up so I removed it. I might try putting it over the mantis. I do like how the mantis covers the complete inside edge because I have also noticed the clearcoat likes to flake off on the edges.
I could not fit the Cliffy under the mantis but this kind of worked.
I have had the ball stuck on top of the inner cliffy (by the bumpers) a few times but an easy nudge drops it into SOL.
Adii, you should note, that unprotected area on your SOL hole is exactly where I got a nice chip, even with the mantis protector. Get something on that segment. I added a length of mylar on that spot, over the chip, in hopes it might help future hits in that area.
With zero protection seems that area might be vulnerable.
Quoted from Damien:Do the Titans change the feel of the game. Pretty sure I put a pair on my MMR, and immediately took them off because it sort of slowed things down.
Your thoughts?
Good point to think about... thank you Damien.
Quoted from markp99:Adii, you should note, that unprotected area on your SOL hole is exactly where I got a nice chip, even with the mantis protector. Get something on that segment. I added a length of mylar on that spot, over the chip, in hopes it might help future hits in that area.
With zero protection seems that area might be vulnerable.
Good idea, thanks! I'm thinking some mylar behind the 3 bank dropdown target too. I don't think there is anything there.
Quoted from adii:Good idea, thanks! I'm thinking some mylar behind the 3 bank dropdown target too. I don't think there is anything there.
Which mylar do I get and where do I order it?
Thanks!
Quoted from adii:How’s this? I had this spare Cliffy. I think it’s usually used at the ball trough. If this doesn’t stay here I’ll let you know.
Hey man, if it works thats a great idea!
Quoted from bitpatrol:Which mylar do I get and where do I order it?
Thanks!
I have a bunch from Pinball Life and just cut to fit. You should order some to have around.
Quoted from adii:How’s this? I had this spare Cliffy. I think it’s usually used at the ball trough. If this doesn’t stay here I’ll let you know.
Very good idea. I'm starting to think of removing the mantis and putting in the Cliffys instead, and using my ball trough cliffy for the SOL as you have done...
Quoted from abagwell:This is the exact same way mine was, and it's what my vendor was confused and cautious about because nothing in the instructions mentions this. He figured the plastic pin had to be removed but the manual doesn't say.
The reason for that "block" in the connector is that the board was intended to have only three pins. As you now know, there are four pins. The logic as it was explained to me was that by blocking that cavity and removing the pin, the connector would not be able to be installed 180 degrees "off".
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