Roughly how much would the backbox weight if I slide off the glass and speakers? I'm curious in case I ever need to move it, I think it would be easier and less chance of damage if I remove the backbox...
Roughly how much would the backbox weight if I slide off the glass and speakers? I'm curious in case I ever need to move it, I think it would be easier and less chance of damage if I remove the backbox...
Quoted from IonRay:Also new out of the box the cabinet directly behind the glass channel / under the back box is flaking. Note flakes of paint on the playfield glass in this image.
I have similar flaking I the same spot but almost completely from one side to the other. Did you open a ticket for this? If so, did they offer an resolution?
Can anyone advise
Set up afm found topper motor won't work lights etc all ok but no martian action
Bigger issue
Played about 6 games of doubles and was just swapping over after a very average ball and NOTHING almost if someone pulled the power checked fuses also the 2 at the switch inside the door swapped power cable checked headbox fuses checked power supply at wall all ok but there are 3 leds in headbox on already opened ticket but has this happened to anyone
Thanks
Quoted from john17a:Can anyone advise
Set up afm found topper motor won't work lights etc all ok but no martian action
Bigger issue
Played about 6 games of doubles and was just swapping over after a very average ball and NOTHING almost if someone pulled the power checked fuses also the 2 at the switch inside the door swapped power cable checked headbox fuses checked power supply at wall all ok but there are 3 leds in headbox on already opened ticket but has this happened to anyone
Thanks
You don’t have your topper fully hooked up based on that picture as I see a connector not connected.
It looks like you haven't plugged in the motor connection on the top board, the open position on the top right. The connectors are marked and one states "motor". It also seems you have two open connectors...
Quoted from SuperHomer:I have similar flaking I the same spot but almost completely from one side to the other. Did you open a ticket for this? If so, did they offer an resolution?
I mentioned this in the same support ticket with my non-functioning topper. They did not bring this up. And there have been no further updates on the ticket since Thursday.
Quoted from snaroff:No change. Like you, a ticket was filed.
snaroff
Ugh! Well at least its a little comforting that there's another out there.
Hope we get this sorted out soon, its starting to turn me off the idea of buying NIB pins.
Quoted from IonRay:Ugh! Well at least its a little comforting that there's another out there.
Hope we get this sorted out soon, its starting to turn me off the idea of buying NIB pins.
I didn't understand why some would not want NIB, but now I get it... I think it's so hard for the manufacturer to get the build perfect with so many moving parts and test edge cases, it's up to the first owner to test/tweak it.
Do the NIB Stern pins also have these types of issues?
Quoted from bitpatrol:Do the NIB Stern pins also have these types of issues?
Yep All manufactures do to some degree. These games used to go mostly to operators. They had techs or were techs and it was a commercial purchase so little cosmetic issues were not really a problem. Today home use market we are picky and want the machine to look and play near perfect right out of the box. (the way it should be in my book) But it takes some set up, adjusting and sometimes dependency on the manufacturer to get the game playing properly. I am sure CGC will get you straightened out and playing properly!
Quoted from whthrs166:I am sure CGC will get you straightened out and playing properly!
Yeah, I have no doubt that CGC will get it all worked out in the end, but for the moment it's super frustrating!
There's plenty of posts on issues from just about all manufacturers and there's a lot of parts going into these things and totally understandable that things will need to be adjusted and setup by the end user but AFM LE is supposed to be *the* machine that is perfect out of box.
Quoted from whthrs166:Yep All manufactures do to some degree. These games used to go mostly to operators. They had techs or were techs and it was a commercial purchase so little cosmetic issues were not really a problem. Today home use market we are picky and want the machine to look and play near perfect right out of the box. (the way it should be in my book) But it takes some set up, adjusting and sometimes dependency on the manufacturer to get the game playing properly. I am sure CGC will get you straightened out and playing properly!
My #254 playfield #836 ran perfect out of the box with no issues. I did have to move the left and right outlane stoppers to the middle as they were not tight and had moved all the way up. I installed full cliffys ( kept mantis in SOL as I think it's better than the cliffy for that hole ), full playfield protector, felt lined metal washers for the legs, full plastic protectors set with not 1 scratch or blemish on it, not even on the cabinet/backbox. There was a loose ring, plastic washer and screw in the bottom of the cabinet when I unboxed it, but no parts were missing anywhere so they must have fallen in during manufacturing. I also have the shooter lane cliffys installed, was not that difficult with a clamp. Removing the pressed-in posts is actually super-easy with no hammering/tapping required, just vice grips with electrical tape around the ends to prevent scratching, removing the post rubber and gripping/twisting the posts out slowly with little force. Putting them back in was the same, super easy when twisting them in with a bit of force, but it nudges in slowly. I wore rubber gloves too while working on it too so no finger prints anywhere I used a digital level to adjust it perfect at 6.5 as the analog one that comes with it is off.
Quoted from IonRay:And there have been no further updates on the ticket since Thursday.
Please post on your ticket again.
LTG : )
Well I noticed my outlanes had slid up as well, moved them all the way down after wanting to throw the thing outside from all the constant outlane drains. I adjusted my left flipper again as it still seemed a bit off, and it actually seems like the head of the flipper is a bit higher then the right flipper...will take a pic later to show what I'm talking about. At any rate, very first game with the outlanes moved down:
Quoted from john17a:Can anyone advise
Set up afm found topper motor won't work lights etc all ok but no martian action
Looks like you have a cable disconnected, please see this post and the following solution from LTG
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/attack-from-mars-remake-afmr-owners-club/page/8#post-3923286
Quoted from bitpatrol:There was a loose ring, plastic washer and screw in the bottom of the cabinet when I unboxed it,
That's that free bonus stuff!
Quoted from hoby1:Did you verify with a DMM. Easy enough to check</blockquote
no i havnt not sure what to do > following cgc instructions but time differance makes thing hard might have to stay up tonight
Try disconnecting the topper from the main board. See if it changes anything. Maybe the coil on the topper is shorted or something. ( I dont know but ya gotta start somewhere. )
and game stopped in between balls DEAD like power outage only sign of life is the 3 leds in back box
Quoted from john17a:and game stopped in between balls DEAD like power outage only sign of life is the 3 leds in back box
Open coin door. Pull out high power interlock switch. Play a game. If game works, the flap closing the switch needs adjustment.
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:Open coin door. Pull out high power interlock switch. Play a game. If game works, the flap closing the switch needs adjustment.
LTG : )
Tried that Lloyd no good what else do you think
I gonna say hes missing some kind of voltage from the switching P/Supply. Not much lit on his boards.
Obviously, the connection to the translite is open but that shouldn't make a difference.
You referred to the topper not working, those better versed may be able to explain it better but one of the connectors has a block installed from the factory to "key" the connector. IOW, you either pull the blocker or cut one of the pins to make it fit.
I do not have the topper installed but maybe this picture may be a help.
Quoted from BagAJellyDonuts:Obviously, the connection to the translite is open but that shouldn't make a difference.
You referred to the topper not working, those better versed may be able to explain it better but one of the connectors has a block installed from the factory to "key" the connector. IOW, you either pull the blocker or cut one of the pins to make it fit.
I do not have the topper installed but maybe this picture may be a help.
If thats the case ...... uuuum, thats not good.
OK looking at the solenoid control board schematic it looks like 12v comes in from the transformer to j104 then over to f106. Check f106 (fuse) also see if j105 sends 12v over to the controller.
Actually it Might be J102 It says Controller on it in the schematic. Check for 12v at pin 1. J102 is at the top left corner of the Solenoid Control Board (right one)
You really need to plug in everything as needed, the picture you showed was missing at least two connections as required....and/or you plugged them in wrong and the machine blew a fuse. There really should not be any problems if done correctly and as documented in the manual....
I understand that there are plenty of Nu-bees here buying these NIB pinball machines, but really, read the manuals.....Starting from the front, it has a wealth of necessary information.
Quoted from TheMickster:You really need to plug in everything as needed, the picture you showed was missing at least two connections as required....and/or you plugged them in wrong and the machine blew a fuse. There really should not be any problems if done correctly and as documented in the manual....
I understand that there are plenty of Nu-bees here buying these NIB pinball machines, but really, read the manuals.....Starting from the front, it has a wealth of necessary information.
What plugs are you looking at so he knows. I actually thought the one on the bottom left was but looking closer it is plugged in. Lets help the guy out.
Quoted from TheMickster:the picture you showed was missing at least two connections as required
Those two connections are not his problem.
I was referring to John17a topper not working, otherwise always check for loose connections, I really don't think it is a factory issue at this time, but in seeing the missing connections with the topper, not sure if something wasn't hooked up wrong from the beginning is all. Sorry, but FYI, 25+ years doing this is my background.
Now I might be crazy...but was hoping someone can help me....
It seems the balls are slamming into the targets and ramps too hard or fast....Can this be adjusted???
Quoted from abagwell:Well I noticed my outlanes had slid up as well, moved them all the way down after wanting to throw the thing outside from all the constant outlane drains. I adjusted my left flipper again as it still seemed a bit off, and it actually seems like the head of the flipper is a bit higher then the right flipper...will take a pic later to show what I'm talking about. At any rate, very first game with the outlanes moved down:
Congrats on the RTU!
What do you have your flipper strength set to?
I seemed to be getting really decent scores at default setting, but then reduced the strength to prevent air balls and have noticed a dip in my scores.
Also find it very hard to get the 5-way combos.
Anyone else notice this difference when lowering flipper strength?
I actually have my flipper strength set at 22 and it feels perfect. Hit an 8way combo last night. Man did that feel good
Quoted from abagwell:Well I noticed my outlanes had slid up as well, moved them all the way down after wanting to throw the thing outside from all the constant outlane drains. I adjusted my left flipper again as it still seemed a bit off, and it actually seems like the head of the flipper is a bit higher then the right flipper...will take a pic later to show what I'm talking about. At any rate, very first game with the outlanes moved down:
Might be time to open the outlanes back up- at least to half way.
Quoted from LTG:Lower the flipper strength.
LTG : )
I have a question. I have my afmr leveled and set to 7.2 degrees with min flipped power and I'm still getting air balls non stop. I kinda like the air balls but the playfield is taking too much abuse. Is there something I can do to fix this?
Quoted from hoby1:What plugs are you looking at so he knows. I actually thought the one on the bottom left was but looking closer it is plugged in. Lets help the guy out.
Looking at the picture the unplugged connector that is black and white (the one with the pin plug in it) goes on the lower right connector.(need to cut the pin or pull the little white plug). The connector currently in the wrong spot goes up top in the empty 4 pin spot. The circuit board is clearly labelled for each connector.
I assume having things connected wrong could cause other problems and may have blown a circuit or chip or something. I would start by connecting topper properly or unplug it alltogether to start.
Quoted from Dust2000:Right flipper has stopped working and I am getting this error message any ideas how to fix it?
I’ve had less than 30 plays on it
End of Stroke switch. If you’re not sure what you’re looking at take a picture of the right flipper mechs (from the bottom of the play field) and post it here so we can take a look.
Quoted from Dust2000:Right flipper has stopped working and I am getting this error message any ideas how to fix it?
I’ve had less than 30 plays on it
Check if the fuse (F115) is blown. If it is, file a ticket with CG...
snaroff
Quoted from Damien:Congrats on the RTU!
What do you have your flipper strength set to?
I seemed to be getting really decent scores at default setting, but then reduced the strength to prevent air balls and have noticed a dip in my scores.
Also find it very hard to get the 5-way combos.
Anyone else notice this difference when lowering flipper strength?
I have mine at -18, wasn't having any issues making shots, though I always feel like the 5way is such a crap shoot, especially if you are trying to alternate ramps. I try and mix in a lock when I'm going for it to give myself a break or wait until my orbits are open. Also I was looking at the original AFMs high scores on here and people were saying that they "3x RTU'd", but after I finished RTU the game didn't reset. It just stayed with every city lit solid, Mars was flashing, and the saucer drop bank stayed down with the back target up. Every hit on that target for the rest of my game gave me 100M. I had several balls left after I RTU'd and this never changed...how are you supposed to 3x RTU or was that something they changed in this remake somehow?
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