You can easily trade it but give it time. Adjust your ball save time if you have too.AFMR by no means is an easy game. Its a pure pinhead game. If you want long ball times and more modes look into some modern sterns. I highly suggest you wait a few months and explore all the modes and watch somd videos of what there is to offer and what to do

Ok so I shot down 32 saucers but i used the smart bomb No Extra Ball!

LOVE THIS GAME!!!!

Mothership one is important as that area takes a beating and some people have reported chipping after 50 or so games on afmr. If the original can look like this , id definitely put it on these newer playfields that tend to chip very easy at edges....06-Ready-repair (resized).jpg

UPDATE: I successfully installed the cliffy for the dropdown target under the spaceship, overlapping the playfield protector over the cliffy. No air balls at all, and I did not have to cut the pp.

Cliffys worked for me as well without cutting the PP.

You guys should post pics of that.

Oh of course, I'm in no rush or anything, I'm talking long term like a "forever pin". I'm never getting rid of WC94 and I really adore my GB Pro for the art and callouts alone(enjoy the gameplay as well, hoping the final code update makes it truly fantastic). I've put around a hundred games on my AFMr and I've already gotten 5/6 RTU. I absolutely love it and won't be getting rid of it anytime soon.

They just took a fantastic timeless title and enhanced it! A title that most people couldn't or didn't own! (including myself) What I like are the guys that have an original and bought the LE! That tells ya somthin right there! Then they rave about the AFMrLE! Just great to hear that! Hats off to you guys!

Merry Christmas all!

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My game has been kicking my ass the last few days and I noticed the right outlane was almost all the way open. I know it was not that way to begin with. I pushed on it and the post is loose. Can some one post or send me a picture of the factory locations? Would like to see both sides please.

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Also added the protector under the Mothership as I started getting damage to the hole on the second day of play.

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Looks good, but I don't see a playfield protector there. My playfield protector is a sheet covering the whole playfield, and when I tried to put the cliffy over the pp, it would not fit and the cliffy would bend and pop off if I let it go... Also, the pp does not go all the way up to the edge of the hole, so the cliffy can only partially cover the pp, which may be causing it to pop off.

I have my cliffy under the pp, and it works great with no air balls. I think having the pp over the edge of the cliffy helps smooth out the transition to the cliffy, as thin as it it. I'll be installing the rest of the cliffys later today!

Factory is in the middle....

Awesome pics thank you! I will be looking at mine as time goes on.

Sorry I misunderstood. I thought your were referring to the factory installed mylar as a play field protector. My bad.

Put the ball eject (shooter lane) Cliffy in as well. Still deciding what to do about the SOL. I have the protector, but given previous posts describing how hard it is to marry to the existing mantis style protector, I'm on the fence. Currently I don't see any wear around the SOL.

This photo also shows my realigned plunger. I put on a smaller washer per snaroff, and then re-aligned it with the shooter lane. You will notice that the front edge of the metal bracket is not parallel to or flush with the edge of the playfield. This has mostly fixed launch issues and I get the super skill shot about 90-95% of the time.

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I'm installing the cliffy under the mothership. How do I hammer out those posts? I am banging on them and they are not budging

Be very careful. It wasn’t on AFM, but I hammered out a post and took a bunch of clear with it :-/

Since they are covered with a rubber, I pulled them out with pliers. They came right out. Hammering from the bottom didn’t work for me either

Just to be clear took the rubber off but wasn’t worried about the scratches I put on the post

How do I put them back in after? Is it just as difficult to get them in? Thanks!

They went back in easily for me. I put a screw in so I wasn’t pounding directly on the post and used a rubber mallet to get them most of the way in. Then tightened them from below brining them back flush with the playfield.

Ok, I see what you mean for the screws.

I will try pulling the posts up with vice-grips. Should I grip on the post or the larger diameter bottom part of the post? I clamped them onto the post and tried to pull up and wiggle left/right but the post was torquing a bit... don't want to break it and also don't want to pull up hard, punch myself in the face and take 1/2 of the playfield top layer along with it

Sorry, in the middle of a pinball contest with the Mrs... I should have said put the top bolt headed screw that holds the plastic in place from the right post in the top of the each post to hammer it back in

This contest involves beer so my descriptions may be degrading

Maybe I can have the Mrs. pull on my shoulders while I pull on the posts, resulting in twice the kinetic energy applied and the posts coming loose.

I clamped the Vise-Grips on the upper section and twisted the post to get it moving then pulled straight up.

Looky at what I got for Christmas! The lockbar is for CC

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UPDATE: I successfully removed the posts, by wrapping the end of the vice-grips with electric tape and twisting the posts out. Same getting them back in, twisted them in. All good!

And if anyone is wondering if they should get cliffys, I would say yes, as there was already a bit of damage starting on the hole below the spaceship... caught it just in time.

How many plays on your game?

A few hundred at least

I also noticed there is already a metal protector on the out hole ( SOL? ) to the right of the spaceship. I'm guessing this is a 'mantis' type protector? I get it now, but do I remove the mantis in favor of a cliffy, or will the mantis offer excellent protection even though it does not cover the top of the playfield? I left the mantis style in there for now...

I have the same launch issue as most. Just noticed though it seems to work more reliably if I hold the launch button down for just a sec instead of a fast press. It might just be a lucky patch but wondering if that happens to anyone else.

My launcher issue is maybe 1 in 10, so not really much to worry about, but would be interested to see how cgc fix it. Personally, given it seems A bit random, i think it might be the amount of play in the plunger. It wiggles around a fair bit. Would seem the plunger could strike at a different angle every time. With that said, I don't think I have ever owned a game that has perfect ball launch 100% of the time, including AFM original.

The only thing that's starting to annoy me however, is the irregularity of the SOL eject. Anyone else?

Anybody's topper not working? Brought AFM LE home a week ago and the topper is not fully functioning. His eyes light up and the front light stays on but no further lighting or interactivity. Yes, I immediately opened a support ticket, but so far its been little more than requesting I check that the pins are seated and that it's turned on in the menu. There are only so many ways I can seat and re-seat the same connectors. Has anybody else had a similar issue?

Also new out of the box the cabinet directly behind the glass channel / under the back box is flaking. Note flakes of paint on the playfield glass in this image.

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For the hell of it, have you performed a factory reset?

Yup, tried that on day one after obsessively evaluating the connectors and unplugging, removing/reattaching topper and plugging back in a few times.

Cliffys needed under saucer for sure also.

Take a look at the first post on cliffys it's possible to have both.

Looks like J109 on the solenoid board is being used to power some topper functions. My topper is currently in the same state.

snaroff

Based on an early post that saw from a guy with an AFMrLE that had 1700 plays (at the time) had no significant wear on the SOL hole, mother ship hole, target area and drain hole and a picture of a worn out playfield on an original AFM, I decided to just add a cliffy on the mother ship hole, add Mylar to the target area, add Mylar to the inserts in front of the SOL hole and add Mylar to the lock hole. I do not like the look of Cliffys all over the pf. I really do not believe that a cliffy is necessary for SOL hole. (I could be wrong in long run but I don't think so) do what you feel is necessary.

just received my green afmr nr 407. Looks stunning. It was a bit powerfull, so I put the flipper power much less (-20).
Still I have this one problem that the ball is jumping out of the right metal ramp. (when you shoot in lock and it goes in the ramp, it jumps out and you loose your ball). Anyone knows how to adjust this????

Have you had any change with J109? My topper remains the same with J109 plugged in or unplugged from the solenoid board. Also changed out fuses on topper & solenoid boards but no change there.

I’ve had the same issue when shooting the ball lock loop. I think I’m at -5 on the flipper strength. I was thinking of putting some type of bumper, even a small piece of vel-cro on the wire form to deaden the impact. My AFMr sits next to a MB and TAF and they ALL have different wireform designs. I wish they had used one of the others on AFM.

I went with self adhesive felt under saucer. Works like a charm and takes 1 minute to install

Got a picture?

Pictures please.

No change. Like you, a ticket was filed.

snaroff

Great idea! Can you post a photo of that? I would like to do the same for my game.