(Topic ID: 192072)

Attack From Mars Remake (AFMr) Owners Club


By Pin_Guy

2 years ago



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  • 518 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 hours ago by pinnyheadhead
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26 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20 (Show topic index)

There are 8240 posts in this topic. You are on page 39 of 165.
#1901 2 years ago

Yeah, the feel is why I'm wanting the Titans. I'll look at their colors again.

By the way, also loving the game. If I have 5 or 10 minutes to kill, like this morning before having to take my son to school, I'll play a game or two, it's that addictive.

#1902 2 years ago
Quoted from VolunteerPin:

Owner of the place is very excited to get AFM in there. Should I go SE or LE? In some ways leaning LE in green as maybe thinking the color and topper might draw more people not to mention the fact that mirrors and shaker are standard and I heard 2 year warranty (does that still apply to routed games?).

I would go LE on this one as the additional $700 spent on this is well worth it from both an attraction and resale value. I'm still kicking myself for not getting an LE on this title.

#1903 2 years ago

Thanks. I have a couple of feelers out to distributors. Probably will go green LE if possible.

#1904 2 years ago

Hello,

I own a Special Edition and am totally loving it! I have been having one small problem however and I wanted to see if anybody else was experiencing this issue. When I first got the machine set up, the two top rollover lights by the pop bumpers were not illuminating. I submitted a support ticket and found out it was simply a small issue where the plug for those lights was a little loose under the playfield. Securing that plug fixes the issue and the lights illuminate correctly. However, recently this issue keeps happening. It seems the vibration from the pop bumpers causes this plug to loosen up again and the lights either do not illuminate at all, or they only illuminate when the pop bumpers are being hit. I have to secure the plug under the playfield about every 10 games now to keep the lights working correctly.

Has anybody experienced this? Also, is there any quick fix to solve this? I'm hesitant to tape up the plug under the playfield to keep it from moving. If anybody has any suggestions to keep the plug in place I would really like to hear them!

Thanks!

#1905 2 years ago
Quoted from jallen3095:

is there any quick fix to solve this?

Plug it on. A dab of hot glue. Done.

Easy to pry the hot glue off if ever needed.

LTG : )

#1906 2 years ago

How do I prevent the glass from rattling when sound plays or the shaker enables?

Thanks!

#1907 2 years ago

OK, I am officially in the club!! Received a LE yesterday. Great looking machine! One question though, where do I find the power cord?? Looks like it was missing. Minor issue but......

#1908 2 years ago
Quoted from Veith:

OK, I am officially in the club!! Received a LE yesterday. Great looking machine! One question though, where do I find the power cord?? Looks like it was missing. Minor issue but......

Should be in the coin box with the balls?

snaroff

#1909 2 years ago
Quoted from Veith:

OK, I am officially in the club!! Received a LE yesterday. Great looking machine! One question though, where do I find the power cord?? Looks like it was missing. Minor issue but......

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/anti-rattle-tapewhich-is-best

#1910 2 years ago

Ok, I"ll use electric tape, thanks!

Also, is it normal for the ball to often hit the metal intake under the spaceship, causing the ball to bounce back out, not making it into the hole? I have a plastic playfield protector and am curious to find out if that is causing the ball to jump up a bit more often than it would usually.

Thanks

#1911 2 years ago
Quoted from bitpatrol:

Also, is it normal for the ball to often hit the metal intake under the spaceship, causing the ball to bounce back out, not making it into the hole? I have a plastic playfield protector and am curious to find out if that is causing the ball to jump up a bit more often than it

No not that I have seen on my machine. (your talking about the mother ship here) I don't see how a PF protector would cause that. Do you have a mantis protector for the mother ship hole? The only draw back to the Mantis type protector is that it does make the hole shots a bit more difficult.

#1912 2 years ago
Quoted from whthrs166:

I seem to recall someone using nylon washers for the leg bolts, does anybody know what size?
The ones I use that work great are at Ace hardware. They are the “extra thick nylon washers 3/8” they have the white only you can paint them any color. The white look fine on the black trim.

That black trim looks amazing! I assume that is a limited edition (considering the topper)? Was this a trim color that you were able to request from CGC, or did you do this after the fact? Either way, it looks badass! Love it.

#1913 2 years ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Should be in the coin box with the balls?
snaroff

Yeah, thats what I thought, but no go. Someone forgot to put it in there. No worries, I am sure they will send me one.

#1914 2 years ago
Quoted from bitpatrol:

How do I prevent the glass from rattling when sound plays or the shaker enables?
Thanks!

YMMV, but I asked about glass rattling a while back. Some different kinds of tape on the top of the glass were suggested, but I realized that I had put my glass in backwards the last time I took it off. I flipped the glass around and the rattling stopped. *shrug*

#1915 2 years ago
Quoted from Veith:

Yeah, thats what I thought, but no go. Someone forgot to put it in there. No worries, I am sure they will send me one.

It’s a standard computer power cable; you should be able to get it almost anywhere, or borrow it from something in your house temporarily.

#1916 2 years ago
Quoted from abagwell:

YMMV, but I asked about glass rattling a while back. Some different kinds of tape on the top of the glass were suggested, but I realized that I had put my glass in backwards the last time I took it off. I flipped the glass around and the rattling stopped. *shrug*

Yes, I did flip it at one point... will try to flip it back

#1917 2 years ago
Quoted from ChipScott:

That black trim looks amazing! I assume that is a limited edition (considering the topper)? Was this a trim color that you were able to request from CGC, or did you do this after the fact? Either way, it looks badass! Love it.

Yes it’s the LE an early build. I odered the black trim. I almost did green, but the powder coat wasnt quite to par with my standards for this title. Thanks

#1918 2 years ago

I'd never route my AFMrLE, BUT... I've been curious to find out how much one of these typically brings in at a busy location? I know it's difficult to tell, but I'm sure some have done this already and justified my purchase by convincing myself I could always put it out on the street to earn money if I ever needed the income? If it can make money, than I can justify buying more too.

#1919 2 years ago
Quoted from Veith:

Yeah, thats what I thought, but no go. Someone forgot to put it in there. No worries, I am sure they will send me one.

I just received mine last night....power cable came out of coin box and fell to the back..was almose impossible to see. Lift the playfield and look close.

#1920 2 years ago
Quoted from bitpatrol:

I'd never route my AFMrLE, BUT... I've been curious to find out how much one of these typically brings in at a busy location? I know it's difficult to tell, but I'm sure some have done this already and justified my purchase by convincing myself I could always put it out on the street to earn money if I ever needed the income? If it can make money, than I can justify buying more too.

Putting that poor young AFMrLE out on the streets to turn tricks for you, you should be ashamed!

#1921 2 years ago
Quoted from eagleeyemma:

I was told they do. Also is anyone has these can someone post a pic. Been wanting to buy the green ones and-or possibly the green and red combo

On a original

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#1922 2 years ago
Quoted from bitpatrol:

How do I prevent the glass from rattling when sound plays or the shaker enables?

Thanks!

Not sure if you tried this, but it has worked for several people in this forum:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/attack-from-mars-remake-afmr-owners-club/page/12#post-3947245

#1923 2 years ago

The electrical tape seems to have worked.

#1924 2 years ago
Quoted from eagleeyemma:

I was told they do. Also is anyone has these can someone post a pic. Been wanting to buy the green ones and-or possibly the green and red combo

Installed last week. Top right plastic protector would not fit under bumper. Talked to Pinbits and advised. The black screw holders in the outlane need to be flipped upside down to accomodate the protector. Also, the top screw for the far right plastic is too short for both plastic and protector. Had to remove the metal guide and remove the screw that glued in. Replaced with a longer screw and it worked.

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#1925 2 years ago
Quoted from GreenMarine:

Installed last week. Top right plastic protector would not fit under bumper. Talked to Pinbits and advised. The black screw holders in the outlane need to be flipped upside down to accomodate the protector. Also, the top screw for the far right plastic is too short for both plastic and protector. Had to remove the metal guide and remove the screw that glued in. Replaced with a longer screw and it worked.

Were you able to get the black screw holders flipped? I could not flip them on mine, as there were small tabs on the top of the screw holders. I had to trim the small tabs on the end of the screw holders in order for them to fit in the holes of both the original plastic and the plastic protector.

I also received a triangular shaped plastic protector with 3 screw holes in it, and cannot for the life of me find where it goes. Let me know if you got that piece too, as my 3 emails to pinbits have gone unanswered

#1926 2 years ago
Quoted from Dodgey:

I just received mine last night....power cable came out of coin box and fell to the back..was almose impossible to see. Lift the playfield and look close.

Yeah I have searched everywhere. I have a temp fix for now and will just have a new one sent. The game is incredible though. Love it!!

#1927 2 years ago

Better wait for that cord to be sent, using something else will void the warranty....

#1928 2 years ago

Ok just kidding

#1929 2 years ago
Quoted from whthrs166:

Better wait for that cord to be sent, using something else will void the warranty....

Quoted from whthrs166:

Ok just kidding

In this one instance. No it won't.

LTG : )

#1930 2 years ago
Quoted from bitpatrol:

Were you able to get the black screw holders flipped? I could not flip them on mine, as there were small tabs on the top of the screw holders. I had to trim the small tabs on the end of the screw holders in order for them to fit in the holes of both the original plastic and the plastic protector.
I also received a triangular shaped plastic protector with 3 screw holes in it, and cannot for the life of me find where it goes. Let me know if you got that piece too, as my 3 emails to pinbits have gone unanswered

Lol!! Received that little triangle one too but mine only has two holes. Not sure where it goes. I flipped those black screw holders so that the tabs insert into playfield.

#1931 2 years ago

Trough eject, auto plunger and a bunch of other solenoids not firing. All on the red-brn line. Connections seem fine though all the way back to board. Grr. Fuses all look fine too... Thoughts?

#1932 2 years ago

Check your interlock switch at the coin door.

Quoted from pocketscience:Trough eject, auto plunger and a bunch of other solenoids not firing. All on the red-brn line. Connections seem fine though all the way back to board. Grr. Fuses all look fine too... Thoughts?

#1933 2 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Check your interlock switch at the coin door.

Interlock was fine as other solenoids were firing. Turns out that just because a fuse looks ok, doesn’t mean it is ok. Upon removal it tested open. Up and running now! Great game!

#1934 2 years ago
Quoted from pocketscience:

Up and running now! Great game!

Nice troubleshooting!

#1935 2 years ago

Launcher issues here. The super skill shot is basically impossible - 1 out of dozens of attempts. Even standard launch fails to get where it should >50% of the time and just dribbles back down the right side. Will wait to see what CGC come up with before I start bending stuff or adding washers etc...

#1936 2 years ago

So I am getting a lot of airballs off the right ramp and hits the glass (if not down the shooter lane or elsewhere)
Lowering flipper power is a solution I know and I have lowered it a bit but is there any other way to solve this?

It is just the right ramp that is the problem. Sometimes I do get some airballs when I hit the ship in an attack wave but they never hit the glass.

#1937 2 years ago
Quoted from mpnox:

So I am getting a lot of airballs off the right ramp and hits the glass (if not down the shooter lane or elsewhere)
Lowering flipper power is a solution I know and I have lowered it a bit but is there any other way to solve this?
It is just the right ramp that is the problem. Sometimes I do get some airballs when I hit the ship in an attack wave but they never hit the glass.

I also get air balls when the gate is down below the mothership, and the target in front of the hole is also down. The ball will hit the metal scoop and either fall in behind it or bounces back out not making it down the hole. This seems to have started after I installed my playfield protector, but I also reset to manufacture'rs defaults which did change the game setup from when I first unboxed it. Maybe the flippers are set stronger now. ( I did the reset just after I isntalled the pp )

Should I try moving the gates up a bit when they are in the lowered position, so that it is more flush with the playfield/plastic protector? The ball does get hung up in that spot when the gate is lowered sometimes. After 10 seconds the gate comes up and the ball comes down, but not sure if that is also caused by the pp or if the gate lowers too deep, not being flush.

#1938 2 years ago

Does anyone make a mini saucer kit like Bill Ung does for AFMr?

#1939 2 years ago
Quoted from hoby1:

Does anyone make a mini saucer kit like Bill Ung does for AFMr?

What would be the benefit? AFMr seems to incorporate the behavior and the LED's are color changing...

snaroff

#1940 2 years ago

I've been wondering, what happens when 2 LEDs burn out? Is it possible to replace the LEDs using a soldering iron, or does the whole PCB need to be replaced for certain LED groups? I have not looked at it closely yet, but am curious to find out how replacing LEDs has been engineered.

#1941 2 years ago
Quoted from pocketscience:

Launcher issues here. The super skill shot is basically impossible - 1 out of dozens of attempts. Even standard launch fails to get where it should >50% of the time and just dribbles back down the right side. Will wait to see what CGC come up with before I start bending stuff or adding washers etc...

Pretty much my current position as well, hoping CGC comes up with a proper resolution for what is obviously affecting quite a few of the machines not made in the first run.

#1942 2 years ago
Quoted from bitpatrol:

This seems to have started after I installed my playfield protector,

I installed PP on 2 of my other machines and had tons of air balls. I could not get the games to play correctly until I removed them. Hopefully you can get your game adjusted.

#1943 2 years ago
Quoted from bitpatrol:

Should I try moving the gates up a bit when they are in the lowered position, so that it is more flush with the playfield/plastic protector?

Yes this! I have installed quite a few PF protectors. Anything that comes up from the PF has to be level with the protector when its in the down position . There is an adjustment screw on the bottom the that unit. Just tweak it til the shield is flush with the protector. That's probably your air ball issue. I went through this with my CC and my TOTAN.

#1944 2 years ago
Quoted from bitpatrol:

I've been wondering, what happens when 2 LEDs burn out? Is it possible to replace the LEDs using a soldering iron, or does the whole PCB need to be replaced for certain LED groups? I have not looked at it closely yet, but am curious to find out how replacing LEDs has been engineered.

Each LED is actually 3 sub LEDs. If one of the 3 burn out, the remaining 2 brighten up to compensate.

#1945 2 years ago
Quoted from pintechev:

Each LED is actually 3 sub LEDs. If one of the 3 burn out, the remaining 2 brighten up to compensate.

Ok, what if the last one burns out too due to a bad batch of LEDs which does happen?

Quoted from whthrs166:

Yes this! I have installed quite a few PF protectors. Anything that comes up from the PF has to be level with the protector when its in the down position . There is an adjustment screw on the bottom the that unit. Just tweak it til the shield is flush with the protector. That's probably your air ball issue. I went through this with my CC and my TOTAN.

Perfect, I'll try that tonight!

#1946 2 years ago
Quoted from bitpatrol:

Ok, what if the last one burns out too due to a bad batch of LEDs which does happen?

Perfect, I'll try that tonight!

You have a couple options:

The non-technical option is to replace the board. Or find someone who works on SMD parts and replace all three. The LEDs are commonly available and inexpensive and would take moments to replace by a skilled technician with the right tools.

#1947 2 years ago
Quoted from pintechev:

You have a couple options:
The non-technical option is to replace the board. Or find someone who works on SMD parts and replace all three. The LEDs are commonly available and inexpensive and would take moments to replace by a skilled technician with the right tools.

Oh, they are surface mount too Any idea what size SMD package? Is it possible to solder them by hand or is a microscope required? I'm thinking the way the LED is PWM'd to emulate an older style bulb may wear out the LED much faster than if just left on at a constant voltage which is how they are tested I think.

#1948 2 years ago
Quoted from hoby1:

Does anyone make a mini saucer kit like Bill Ung does for AFMr?

CGC said they were going to sell a mini saucer kit at some point. That would be the way to go so you can get the color changing a pulsing effects.

#1949 2 years ago

I have a warranty question I’m hoping LTG may be able to answer. I’m in a weird situation where I’ve already purchased/paid for an AFMr le but may not receive for another 1 year or so until I’m in my new home and was wondering does the warranty clock start ticking now or when I actually accept delivery?? Thanks in advance

#1950 2 years ago
Quoted from bitpatrol:

Oh, they are surface mount too Any idea what size SMD package? Is it possible to solder them by hand or is a microscope required? I'm thinking the way the LED is PWM'd to emulate an older style bulb may wear out the LED much faster than if just left on at a constant voltage which is how they are tested I think.

The insert LEDs are surface mount. The GI are in sockets. I need to look at the schematic. They aren’t small like most SMD parts, there are a few small insert boards if you want to take a peek at one. You can do it by hand with the right tip.

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