Quoted from rottenrobert1313:

Got my LE a few days ago. Just got the Cliffys installed along with plastic protectors and titan black rubbers through out the game. So I have a few questions and I've read the entire thread. And I know I read about it, but can't find it now. How do you keep the ball from flying off the light lock shot and entering the shooter lane? Also, how do you fix the orbit issue? The coil is hitting center of the ball but I think I remember reading about the ramp out the shooter lane that has a bend in it? And I can see where it's vent. Do I need to straighten that or get a new part from Chicago gaming?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from rottenrobert1313:

Thanks. That's good to know. I'll open a ticket.
I've backed the flipper power down to -7. Still happens with a clean shot.

Quoted from rottenrobert1313:

This worked thanks.
Also got my LE from Sara. Great to deal with.
I've owned it for exactly one week and just got the GC.[quoted image]

Quoted from PPS:

PPS have 2 or 3 AFMR LE's left, and when these are gone there are no more, possibly a couple of resellers who have some, but likely not at the regular list price ... so if anyone is on the fence now is the time. We also have GREEN conversion kits for $100 for any of these last games ... [email protected]

Quoted from hollywood:

Why would you EVER sell the black?? Black is way better on this machine IMO (which really means nothing).
I saw the green in person.....chose black on my machine. Couldn’t be happier.

Quoted from nitrojcrawf:

NOPE! Opened and inspected per Sara from PPS. Stuffed back in box and returned

Quoted from nitrojcrawf:

Road Runner frt. this game shipped from Planetary in Nevada, made a stop over in Chicago then to my terminal. Separate del company brought it to me so hell who knows when it happen. Given the way the other loads looked like in back of Del truck I suspect the last.

Quoted from Blackzarak:

I just built my green atomic blaster and ready to report. Dont know why people are not fond of the green trim on this pin I personally love it looks awsome with the topper. Finally join the club
[quoted image]

Quoted from Hop721:

Congrats!! I got the black with the green trim kit. Delivered, set up and....the green trim sits in the box because I love the black so much

Quoted from NeilMcRae:

ok has anyone found a solution to the SDTM on the scoop?
I swapped to a NOS scoop and it helped but the eject from the scoop 10-15% of the time is SDTM - there must be a solution for this?

Quoted from joseph5185:

Anyone know of any distributors outside of Automated with LEs in stock?
I’m trying to gauge how much time I may have to snag NIB.
Thanks!

Quoted from joseph5185:

Changeover kit?
And what is PPS?

Quoted from Maide:

I think they might be sold out now; I don't see it listed on their website anymore.

Quoted from joseph5185:

Anything to look for when I get this NIB?
Probably right..
Like, you should definitely mylar these areas that didn't come pre-mylared, etc ..

Quoted from SkillShot:

Received my BLK LE, game is an absolute blast to play. The flow is amazing and the dots, music and call-outs are outstanding. This game is for sure a keeper.
Only issue I’m having is the ball flying off the right ramp from the lock shot. It gets some serious speed coming around the corner.

Quoted from SkillShot:

One of the first things I did before I played a single game.

Quoted from f3honda4me:

Not necessarily. Just like any game, play it first, then adjust as needed.

Quoted from joseph5185:

Wait what..
It’s recommended to lower default flipper machine on this particular game?

Quoted from Hop721:

I ordered plastic protectors after reading another response to your post. I looked at my plastics and noticed some minor chipping of the paint already (150ish games in). Glad you asked this question.

Quoted from flipper73:

Hi all,
when the scoop gives the ball back sometimes it goes sdtm. (1 out of 10 Times) is there anything i can do, how can I fix it? Or is it „normal“?
Ralf

Quoted from Gogdog:

Is there a scoop power setting? I was trying to find it in the original settings and the "extended" settings from CGC and couldn't find one...

Quoted from Fizz:

I have finally joined the AFMr owners club, and am very excited.
This has led to all of the following problems:
-Greatly increased level of shouting swear words.
-Fairly certain the game will give me a heart attack.
-Nonstop urge to press the start button.
Love it!

Quoted from joseph5185:

Is it shaped like an "R"?

Quoted from joseph5185:

I get mine tomorrow!
I'm hoping for good things!!!
Just wanna make sure my flippers are tight and then hit the start button! Anything outside of the obvious that I should "absolutely" take a look at before hitting that start button?
Anyone!?

Quoted from dashv:

A year and a half later. No amount of adjusting has ever helped.
It’s always a major chore trying to lock down the bar.
Always afraid I’m going to hurt myself or break the machine.

Quoted from SeaLawyer:

Just bought #840 LE, NIB, black trim. Delivery next week.
Is anyone running one of these?
ebay.com link
Is it worth installing on a new playfield to keep it new?

Quoted from joseph5185:

Wow! Purposely lower flipper power. Is that a first? I assume not.
Why 6.3 and not 6.5? I know you have a reason.
Oh yea...the SOL 2.0 thing. I really hope it is. Is the game unplayable if it's not?
Thanks pinballinreno!

Quoted from pinnyheadhead:

I have a PF protector because mine came with it. Game plays a little faster. I wouldn't put one on though. Just mylar the shooter lane and play the crap out of it.

Quoted from joseph5185:

What exactly is this pic 2.0 and why was it needed in the first place?

Quoted from joseph5185:

OH WOW! ...
Yea...I don't want to forget to check this. It's going to be pretty damn disappointing if it's 1.0. I've been REALLY looking forward to playing this thing.

Quoted from joseph5185:

Thanks.
Pretty sure that’s a no.
[quoted image]
Edit: “1.0 or lower.” I may be okay. It looks like it’s later than 1.0, but don’t fully understand it.

Quoted from LTG:

Your game is okay. No label is good too. Only issue is if it has the label with 1.0 on it.
LTG : )

Quoted from ausretrogamer:

I don’t recall having to cut anything. The topper connection should plug in without the need of cutting pins etc.

Quoted from joseph5185:

Topper isn't working ... =/
I turn the game on, the saucers light up. The Martian's eyes remain lit up and that's about it. I have everything plugged in correctly.
I went to the System Menu to test it and when it's Running it does nothing.
I'll poke around this thread and the technical one to see if anyone else ran into issues with this.
I'm so lucky...
Edit: Disregard.
I have to cut the pin on the PCB because that connector should be plugged in.
That makes perfect sense. Why didn't I think of that?
Any suggestions on what I should cut this pin with?
Smh...

Quoted from wackenhut:

Does any software need to be updated from a NIB machine?

Quoted from joseph5185:

To confirm, the topper is NOT working after plugging in the “INPUTS” cable as suggested.
I saw some use cases where upgrading to the PIC 2.0 can get the topper working so I reached out to my distributor about it as the topper not working is pretty disappointing...
Game plays great otherwise!

Quoted from joseph5185:

Okay. Perfect.
Link?

Quoted from LTG:

Good for you.

Do you have it turned on in the CGC menu ? Page 1-10 in your manual or :
If yes then please go to - https://www.chicago-gaming.com/support/helpdesk and open a ticket on the support help desk.
LTG : )

Quoted from wackenhut:

What is the best way to ship an AFM LE? The concern is with the topper of course.

Quoted from joseph5185:

Just a couple questions ..
I thought launching a ball “always” got it to the pop bumbers. No?
The left VUK sometimes can’t get the ball up on the 1st or 2nd attempt. Always works by the 3rd. Maybe just slightly increase the coil?
I swear I have drained on the left outlane twice WHILE the ball is coming down the wireform. I’m pretty sure that should “never” happen?
It’s GREAT otherwise! =)

Quoted from joseph5185:

Saw the key post and associates linked .pdf on removing the shooter lane metal, bending, and reinstalling.
Fascinating...
I have not yet tried this, but I wanted to point out that this was not initially a problem. It only started becoming a problem after so many games.

Quoted from joseph5185:

Yea.
I held the left flipper and it did NOTHING.
There’s definitely an issue.

Quoted from Fizz:

I have also lowered the plunge strength and the ball makes it all the way around, like 90 percent of the time.
Is this about normal, or should it be 100 percent?
I'm thinking it's normal but just wondering what others are experiencing.

Quoted from Gogdog:

Is anybody else annoyed by this light? Its the only light that shines directly in my face when playing. I can twist the rubber martian a bit to try and get his leg to "cover" the light a bit. But wondering if anybody else has noticed this light?
[quoted image]
A new issue also cropped up for me. The shaker motor is starting to squeak, usually just as it turns off and comes to rest. I read through some forum posts...and cleaned the motor with some contact cleaner, which didn't seem to help (it also didn't seem dirty at all). I also reversed the direction that it spins by switching the wires in the connector. I also put a tiny bit of machine oil on the bushings.
Those 3 things just gave me a tiny slight improvement. Next step...is I read maybe applying some dry silicone lube to the bushings instead of the oil might help. I have some wet silicone lube...but may just go and get the dry version since I guess that's what you are really supposed to use...

Quoted from LTG:

I changed it from parts to technical and alerted it to CGC so they can look up if your game needs it or not, and then get you what you need to make things right.
LTG : )

Quoted from SeaLawyer:

Also, does anyone know whether the remake translite and glass are the same size as the original?

Quoted from SeaLawyer:

Awesome, so the new CPR mirrored BG should work! Thanks!

Quoted from hollywood:

There are some games my ball seems to rattle or stall and not make the pops....is this what you’re talking about?

Quoted from joseph5185:

But, of course, make sure you have a 2.0 chip before you do.

Quoted from joseph5185:

Love the game..
I'll have the ball guide replacement tomorrow.
I noticed "something" is clicking every time I hit the saucer. Has anyone noticed this?
I'll have to take a look at the key posts when I have a bit more time.

Quoted from joseph5185:

Thanks.
I’ll try to run some diagnostics and figure it out.
Also, the right side of the glass/game has some noticeable vibration from the shaker.
Is this happening to anyone else specifically?

Quoted from NeilMcRae:

I though the big capacitors in the back of the game where supposed to make that a non-issue?

Quoted from ctviss:

I bought this per the recommendation of another Pinsider. I cut two strips the length of the glass in half, ~3/8", and wrapped it along the bottom/side of the glass where it sits in the channel. Zero rattle and the glass slides in and out easily. It takes slightly more work but it's a far better value than any "specialty" product.
amazon.com link »

Quoted from joseph5185:

So...here are my leveling efforts ..
It looks "good" and the ball isn't rolling. I REALLY like this test to determine if the playfield is level...after all it's the ball that's rolling in the first place.
Here's my only...quirks with this. I used this digital level and zero'd it, put in the playfield and it reads 6.5. Perfect! Sorta! When I put the level back down it's always reading 0.2 and I tried this multiple times.
This would suggest 6.7 actually and if you look at the bubble on the machine, it's a touch higher than that second line which if it actually has any accuracy, could mean it is in fact 6.7.
Idk... It's "close" or w/e and the playfield being level just seems more important.
Thoughts/Comments on my first efforts?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Pinball-Wiz:

Got a quick question for those that own this game... is the side armor removeable without damaging the game? My old Bally/Williams had double stick tape on it, does this one also? Reason I'm asking is my friend is looking at one that has stainless armor and he wants green armor.

Quoted from pbboy:

What is the common playfield angle setting everyone is using?
The standard 6.5 degree plays well but seems a little slow to me.

Quoted from joseph5185:

Hey guys ... Update!
The ball replacement guide from CGC has completely solved the issue. Every single time, the ball is able to make it up to the pop bumpers now.
However... holding the left flipper down does not always guarantee the ball is able to orbit around to the left flipper. Might this suggest a separate issue or is it that you cannot always successfully get an opportunity at the super skill shot?

Quoted from joseph5185:

Wait are you saying increasing the left flipper power can somehow alter the ball having the ability to orbit .. as if holding the flipper down is doing something at the top of the playfield?

Quoted from joseph5185:

So what kind of Titan rubbers are you dressing the flippers with?
Pictures please!!

Quoted from joseph5185:

So I don’t think we are talking about the same things honestly
The link from a couple posts back was referencing the plastic pieces that go over slings and such.

Quoted from PinMonk:

They wear like crap over time and change the way the machine plays in some places. I hate them.

Quoted from joseph5185:

Ah. My fault! “Plastic” protectors...
Do most install these?

Quoted from joseph5185:

Four comments:
1) I just realized that this game has mirror blades and it looks REALLY good. Now compelled to add to my POTC.
2) I can light “Video Mode” never, ever. It just doesn’t happen. I have played around 500 games and don’t recall it happening once.
3) The ball is struggling...a bit to successfully get up to the pops so I may bend the metal a touch or whatever during the next waxing and continue to address.
4) Sometimes when playing pinball things just don’t go your way. I played for around an hour or so last night and I COULD NOT for the life of me destroy just two countries. So disheartening.

Quoted from gumnut01:

Searched for this cannot find it. In the last couple of months now and again the skill shot launch stops at the top left gate and goes to the pops. I have inspected the left flipper and swapped opto boards. Also done the flipper binding fix. Still does on a rare occasion. Trying to work out if I have a problem with left flipper or not.
Anyone had similar?
Thanks.

Quoted from Cobray:

So a friend of mine just bought an AFMr-LE sight unseen, it was kind of a strange deal (pin was sold and flipped twice in a week, seller claimed he bought a AFMr Standard and that was his reason for selling so quick) but the guy he bought it from threw out some big names for references and swore the game was mint with less than 100 plays. The seller threw some tactics at him that I will not get into here, but I can tell you it was kind of crazy. He didn't want to post but agreed to let me post this up to get people's opinion on the playfield and how to move forward.
The game arrived and this is what the playfield looks like, look at the inserts and playfield :
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Pinball-Wiz:

That playfield is not "OK" for a 1-2 year old "LE" that was sold for top dollar as "Mint" with "low plays".
You're crazy IMO. But when it's dealing with someone elses problem, it doesn't seem as bad does it. I've been in a bad spot like this before (mis-represented game with a BS story behind it) and it's not a good position to be in.
I'd be going all the way through to make this right if I was holding it right now, I can tell you that. I thought Chicago Gaming prided themselves in the quality of playfields, more so than any other manufacturer? If they don't make this right, I'll be giving my MMr purchase a second thought (I have one on order due for next month).

Quoted from maffewl:

Does the DMD color upgrade on the CE also allow the main saucer to have red, blue, and green lights instead of just red?

Quoted from maffewl:

Lol. This is why I'm asking. I've seen on some threads that people have mentioned that it does change the main saucer led output. I have not been able to find any videos or images to confirm.
I'm getting the color upgrade, and was even more excited if it changed these as well.

Quoted from Fizz:

Also, just wanted to add, many, many people love the LE topper and say that it adds to the gameplay experience, because it bounces up and down and shakes the game.
So, the gameplay on the playfield is the same on the CE but without that topper. It's up to you if you think the topper adds to the experience or not.
Personally I really like the looks of the topper but would turn off the shaking if I had it. But I'm probably in the minority on that.

Quoted from PantherCityPins:

Anyone have an idea of what the street price for the AFMR CE is these days? Do they go for the $6k or are there some deals out there?

Quoted from maffewl:

Just received my AFMr CE. Awesome game and am having a ton of fun playing it.
Quick question, are the flippers designed to feel a bit weaker? I have mine set at the default setting, but they feel very weak. A controlled shot will make the ramps, saucer, etc., but it is not zooming by any means. For instance, a controlled shot to the saucer will "roll into" the hole. It's not like I'd ever be worried about any damage there. I've turned the power level up to +1 on the flippers, but it didn't seem to make a ton of difference. Just curious if I'm over-analyzing this.

Quoted from maffewl:

I have the SOL V2.0 chip it appears.[quoted image]

Quoted from nvu4prod:

I ordered the green protectors from Pinbits. Think the green fit the game nicely! They kind of glow with the game off as well![quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from atrainn:

Joined the club yesterday![quoted image]

Quoted from HB_GAMER:

It did it again today. The Screen is on, it is as if during the boot up sequence the Os does not see the screen and skips the video. It seems to happen the first time it boots after being off a few weeks. A reboot usually fixes it. All cables seem to be drug although the black cable appears to be pinched by a zip tie.
Just curious if others have experienced this.

Quoted from HB_GAMER:

Totally at a loss at the moment. Before when the video wouldn’t load, a quick power cycle would resolve in the screen coming on. I have snugged all the cables reseated the power cable, dvi adapter, hdmi, usb micro etc. the controller to pinball controller cable was not fully seated on the pinball controller board but that is it. After snug, power cycle (repeat) * 20 or so, it mostly has displayed the red light with the screen not coming on. The green light has come on a few times and froze with the Chicago screen. Sometimes the screen will flash the resolution and power light turns green (but blank). Of the success it will flash the resolution then go to the Attack red screen. Berry rarely has it gone Resolution, Chicago, resolution Attack.
If I had to guess the power supply is acting up or the HDMI cable is bad. I just don’t know enough about what the red light means (no power or No Video) I have had a green light with no video.
I am 7 days away from my Year warranty expiring. Thanks for the help.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from dugmar:

You know what I mean.

Quoted from JeffF:

Me too... but I will say MMr still doesn't feel right to me. MBr and AFMr are both spot on or better than the originals IMO.

Quoted from rai:

I think AFM remake is perfect.

Quoted from Halfwasted:

Will a limited edition topper work with the special edition version of the this game?

Quoted from tpir:

CGC posted a video about what is going on here and how to fix it. I can't find it on YouTube but know it exists and will find it!
You have to slightly bend part of the VUK assembly from underneath the table. Sounds worse than it is

Quoted from tpir:

Have a really weird issue that I can't begin to figure out since it seems like the software is failing badly (not even sure how that would be possible.)
About once every five or six games I will drain (well after ball save) and instead of the bonus sequence and the ball actually ending the game launches all 4 balls one after the other. If I let all 4 of those drain, the ball ends and I get the bonus sequence. Everything in the trough seems fine and the game seems to "know" it launched 4 balls. No clue at all
I know this sounds insane, but I can get video of it.

Quoted from LTG:

Check if the plunger that shoots the ball up the shooter lane, if it's hitting the shooter lane switch.
LTG : )

Quoted from Hop721:

Ahhhh Tex...you have mocked me for far too long sir! But tonight your rule has ended.
Embarrassed to say how many games it took so I won’t but, damn, it felt good![quoted image]

Quoted from markp99:

An Attack From Mars pinball machine made a brief appearance in the Ad Astra movie as the crew was preparing to depart...for Mars.

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Here you go: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinball-in-movies-or-tv-shows-name-a-game-you-have-seen-in-the-background/page/34#post-5222925

Quoted from atrainn:

Well I finally beat my fiancee's 6.75 billion high score tonight. Just by a hair....[quoted image]

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

If you really wanted to show your love, you should have entered her initials

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Can anyone tell me what the Molex/plastic connector type/model is that is used for the GI bulbs? I'd like to buy a few to tap into the cables for adding on some accessory GI lighting.[quoted image]

Quoted from jalpert:

I had titan silicon rings on mine when I picked it up, I took them off very quickly. Balls hit these rubber like compounds and just die, the game felt dead and lifeless compared to the real stuff.

Quoted from NeilMcRae:

So Marco's white plays different from Marco's black? Is this the PRW stuff?

Quoted from Jimmyhonda:

So, I tested the three fuses and they are all working. However, the three green lights are not on? You also mentioned the high power switch inside the coin door? How do I check that? Thank you!!

Quoted from PinMonk:

White is ALWAYS bouncier than black. Has something to do with the way it's made. There's a marked (ha!) difference between white and black. Of all the white I've tried, Marco's is the best. No one elses even comes close.

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

So, after playing several games of my new AFMr LE (which I love), I just happened to notice that I have a set of plastics with the crackling artwork. I submitted a ticket and received a prompt reply that cosmetic issues are only warrantied to the original owner within two weeks of purchase (which has obviously lapsed) and that I would need to buy a replacement set from Planetary Pinball. I found the set here: http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-31-2535-COMP for $139 plus shipping, but had some questions from those of you who had to do the same.
Are these plastics truly OEM or are they remakes? The tiny picture doesn't do the coloring justice and there is no other info on the site about them. I'm bummed a little at having to spend the money if I want perfect condition ones (the ball returns are really the only 2 that are bugging me), but I want to make sure that I'm getting OEM quality and coloring.[quoted image]

Quoted from PinMonk:

Wow, that sucks. It's DEFINITELY their problem, and it's not a cosmetic issue that would have manifested within two weeks of manufacture. It's a factory defect of using the wrong ink on the PET-G plastic, causing a reaction where the ink crackles OVER TIME. This problem didn't begin to show itself for MONTHS (almost a year in our case), which is normal for this kind of defect. They were kind enough to replace the ones we had, even though this one was second-owner.
Sucks that they're blowing the issue off now and making you pay for their defect.

Quoted from SeaLawyer:

Agreed. Titans LOOK amazing, but PLAY AWFUL compared to the real stuff. Going to try the
Perfect Play
flipper rubber to see how it plays. I like color, but not willing to sacrifice feel to get it. I don't care about durability, since I'm not an operator.

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

So the speaker panel rattle on this game has been driving me crazy. In addition to rattling as a result of its own vibration, my game room is upstairs so just walking around it caused vibration. After thinking about it a little, I came up with a perfect solution that completely eliminates the speaker panel rattle. I unscrewed the two spacers that the top of the panel hooks onto. I then took some thin silicone post sleeves that I had, and pushed them down over the spacer. I put the screw back through the sleeve and spacer then reinstalled. It is a perfect fit and the sleeve absorbs all of the vibration.[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

So, I kind of like Mezel's E@E building, but I don't really care for the overall style of it. I think the game calls for something more modern that matches the skyscrapers in the artwork of the backboard & backglass. Therefore, I've decided to design and build my own. Mine will have an illuminated sign on top, green tinted windows to match the game, and two fire bulbs on the inside. Also, it will be secured via friction fit and a magnet sheet so it is not permanently affixed, but still secure in place and won't rattle.
I've already printed a template and it works great. Now just need to get the time to print the actual final model. I plan on using a white marble filament for the exterior. I'll provide plenty of pics and a video to show it off once I'm done.[quoted image]

Quoted from markp99:

...and avoid comic sans font.