(Topic ID: 192072)

Attack From Mars Remake (AFMr) Owners Club

By Pin_Guy

5 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 10,078 posts
  • 667 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 days ago by RobbyIRL5
  • Topic is favorited by 312 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

26 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 10,078 posts in this topic. You are on page 202 of 202.
#10051 70 days ago

Final version of my home made topper

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2 weeks later
#10052 53 days ago

Joined the club today! Very excited to now have not one but two Lyman games in the lineup. Eager to dive into this gem

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1 week later
#10053 41 days ago

Lot more to install, but I just had to share this gem courtesy of the amazing Mr_Tantrum Thank you Chris, looks amazing!

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#10054 41 days ago
Quoted from ray-dude:

Lot more to install, but I just had to share this gem courtesy of the amazing Mr_Tantrum Thank you Chris, looks amazing![quoted image]

Glad you like it. I think the DMD sign ended up coming out nice (cool idea on your part) and looks even better in person than in photo.

#10055 41 days ago

My partner is complaining there is a typo (her high score signature is "LES"

#10056 41 days ago

Can someone take a look and identify the hardeare used to secure the switch to the lock ranp entrance?

Its just behind the saucer area and at the entrance to the ramp itself.

Mine “self disassembled” and its not clear what hardware was used. I think it must use one of those threaded plates… but maybe more. I’ve only found screws so far

Thx!

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#10057 41 days ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

Can someone take a look and identify the hardeare used to secure the switch to the lock ranp entrance?

Two screws on the front of the switch. And fish paper between the switch and the bracket.

LTG : )

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#10058 41 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Two screws on the front of the switch. And fish paper between the switch and the bracket.
LTG : )
[quoted image]

Thx but It can’t be just the bracket+screws… as the bracket a slotted hole for adjustment and not threaded

Was trying to see if they used the switch plate with threads or just nuts.

#10059 40 days ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

Thx but It can’t be just the bracket+screws… as the bracket a slotted hole for adjustment and not threaded
Was trying to see if they used the switch plate with threads or just nuts.

Probably the threaded switch plate which would be easier although either would work.

#10060 36 days ago

Hmmm perfect catch!!!

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#10061 36 days ago
Quoted from ray-dude:

Joined the club today! Very excited to now have not one but two Lyman games in the lineup. Eager to dive into this gem
[quoted image]

Insane lineup !

#10062 36 days ago
Quoted from jchristian11:

Probably the threaded switch plate which would be easier although either would work.

that's what I figured, but thought the plate could be caught up somewhere topside easier. wanted to know what I was looking for. Couldn't find nuts or the plate at the end of the day in the game. Like socks in the dryer.... Found some 2-56 nuts at the hardware store and just used those while waiting on marco parts.

#10063 33 days ago

Folks, I'm about to dig into the manual but I thought I would post here in case someone has a quick pointer.

I noticed that the LEDs in the coin door of my AFMr LE were pretty dim. When I removed one, the other got brighter. but still dim overall.

Measuring voltage at the LED connector with both out I get 12V (as expected from the markings on the LED). With one LED in it drops to 5.3V and with 2 in it drops to 4.3V. Doesn't matter what order I put the LEDs in, or which socket. Seems like my machine is having trouble driving the LED load.

This is my first CGC machine so I'm still learning how power is managed and distributed in the beast. Any quick pointers if this is a common issue? I'll be digging into the manual to see what I can find.

TIA!

#10064 32 days ago

I see from a series of posts from Mr_Tantrum https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/attack-from-mars-remake-afmr-owners-club/page/162#post-5411031 very similar symptoms, related to the PIN-PCB-CONTRL2 board. There is apparently a dedicated line on the main controller board to the coin door lights (J3-13), and he damaged something on his board with higher power LEDs, when drawing too much current fried something on the controller board.

I have the original LEDs in my coin door, but the symptoms I'm seeing sound identical to what Chris ran into. Maybe something shorted at some point and blew whatever blew on Chris' controller board?

Looking at the schematic, my best guess is that transistor Q1A or capacitor CF18 are toast (my best guess is the transistor). Alas both are surface mount, and I'm not brave enough for that project (esp. on a $400 board). I'm not seeing any physical damage to the components either, which makes me suspect the transistor (an FDC4601) even more.

I'm also not sure if dropping $400 on a replacement board for coin door lights makes sense. Is there a downside to consider in wiring up the coin door to +12V and calling it a day? Lights would no longer be controlled by the controller, but I can't recall the lights coming on or off (all the other lights from that connector are working OK)

Looking at self test mode and the manual, the is an unused L87 nestled between the launch button (L86) and start button (L88) which I suspect is the coin door lights. An alternative to wiring the coin door lamps to 12V is to disconnect the signal line (J3-13) at the coin door LEDs and ground it. If I'm reading the schematics correctly, 12V is working, what is not working is the Q1 transistor pulling the J3-13 line down to ground so the LEDs see the full 12 V. Before I go from a micro frying pan to a raging fire, are others more saavy than me seeing the same thing?

Ironically, I only noticed the dim coin reject LEDs because I was dropping Mr_Tantrum 's cow and saucer inserts into my reject buttons, and wondering why the LEDs are so dim. This is one of those situations where not noticing it would be the easier path on the wallet (don't look at your coin door LEDs to see if they're dim

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#10065 32 days ago
Quoted from ray-dude:

I see from a series of posts from Mr_Tantrum https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/attack-from-mars-remake-afmr-owners-club/page/162#post-5411031 very similar symptoms, related to the PIN-PCB-CONTRL2 board. There is apparently a dedicated line on the main controller board to the coin door lights (J3-13), and he damaged something on his board with higher power LEDs, when drawing too much current fried something on the controller board.
I have the original LEDs in my coin door, but the symptoms I'm seeing sound identical to what Chris ran into. Maybe something shorted at some point and blew whatever blew on Chris' controller board?
Looking at the schematic, my best guess is that transistor Q1A or capacitor CF18 are toast (my best guess is the transistor). Alas both are surface mount, and I'm not brave enough for that project (esp. on a $400 board). I'm not seeing any physical damage to the components either, which makes me suspect the transistor (an FDC4601) even more.
I'm also not sure if dropping $400 on a replacement board for coin door lights makes sense. Is there a downside to consider in wiring up the coin door to +12V and calling it a day? Lights would no longer be controlled by the controller, but I can't recall the lights coming on or off (all the other lights from that connector are working OK)
Looking at self test mode and the manual, the is an unused L87 nestled between the launch button (L86) and start button (L88) which I suspect is the coin door lights. An alternative to wiring the coin door lamps to 12V is to disconnect the signal line (J3-13) at the coin door LEDs and ground it. If I'm reading the schematics correctly, 12V is working, what is not working is the Q1 transistor pulling the J3-13 line down to ground so the LEDs see the full 12 V. Before I go from a micro frying pan to a raging fire, are others more saavy than me seeing the same thing?
Ironically, I only noticed the dim coin reject LEDs because I was dropping Mr_Tantrum 's cow and saucer inserts into my reject buttons, and wondering why the LEDs are so dim. This is one of those situations where not noticing it would be the easier path on the wallet (don't look at your coin door LEDs to see if they're dim [quoted image]

I think you have analyzed and captured the issue quite well. Personally, I don’t see any reason why you couldn’t rewire the coin door LEDs directly to the power supply (they would always be on, of course). I would think you could even do so using the 5V supply and use standard bulbs if you wanted. Either way, you could use 3rd party color bulbs if you wanted if you wired direct to power supply and not through board.

#10066 29 days ago

My AFMr GI will shut off intermittently during game play for a second or two…completely random and not in connection with any specific shot/switch… anyone else have this issue who can point me in the right direction…much appreciated.

2 weeks later
#10067 15 days ago

Does someone with an LE mind sharing where the mini saucer pcb board connects to the game at? My wire seems to have come unplugged and i want to male sure i know where it plugs in im at a loss

Thanks

#10068 13 days ago

AFMr LE Head PCBs
Hope this helps

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#10069 12 days ago

Did anyone order cliffy for shooter lane? Are they suppose to be different lengths? The one on the right is longer than the left thanks

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#10070 12 days ago
Quoted from medic7000:

Did anyone order cliffy for shooter lane? Are they suppose to be different lengths? The one on the right is longer than the left thanks
[quoted image]

Yep, that’s not uncommon at all. I put Cliffys on both sides of my shooter lanes and mine are generally different lengths.

#10071 10 days ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Yep, that’s not uncommon at all. I put Cliffys on both sides of my shooter lanes and mine are generally different lengths.

Concur

#10072 10 days ago

Back in the club again, SE last time, LE this time. Almost forgot how buttery this game shoots! I’m a better player since I owned the last one, ruled the universe for the first time and got 39b. Question, what’s the best scoring strategy after ruling the Im universe?

Also - note to self, CGC cabinets should be a 2-man job, they are heavy compared to a Stern. Taking it out of the back of my truck, almost lost it to the side, would have been ugly. Never again!

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#10073 10 days ago
Quoted from Swoods5688:

Does someone with an LE mind sharing where the mini saucer pcb board connects to the game at? My wire seems to have come unplugged and i want to male sure i know where it plugs in im at a loss
Thanks

Did you figure this out?

#10074 10 days ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

Back in the club again, SE last time, LE this time. Almost forgot how buttery this game shoots! I’m a better player since I owned the last one, ruled the universe for the first time and got 39b. Question, what’s the best scoring strategy after ruling the Im universe?
Also - note to self, CGC cabinets should be a 2-man job, they are heavy compared to a Stern. Taking it out of the back of my truck, almost lost it to the side, would have been ugly. Never again!
[quoted image]

Very nice lineup you have there. Where's the Indy 500 pin?

#10075 10 days ago

Nice Line-up ole boy

Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

Back in the club again, SE last time, LE this time. Almost forgot how buttery this game shoots! I’m a better player since I owned the last one, ruled the universe for the first time and got 39b. Question, what’s the best scoring strategy after ruling the Im universe?
Also - note to self, CGC cabinets should be a 2-man job, they are heavy compared to a Stern. Taking it out of the back of my truck, almost lost it to the side, would have been ugly. Never again!
[quoted image]

#10076 10 days ago
Quoted from RobbyIRL5:

Back in the club again, SE last time, LE this time. Almost forgot how buttery this game shoots! I’m a better player since I owned the last one, ruled the universe for the first time and got 39b. Question, what’s the best scoring strategy after ruling the Im universe?
Also - note to self, CGC cabinets should be a 2-man job, they are heavy compared to a Stern. Taking it out of the back of my truck, almost lost it to the side, would have been ugly. Never again!
[quoted image]

Nice!!!!

#10077 10 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Did you figure this out?

Yes I did thank you! I went back looking at old adds where people posted underplayed shots and was able to trace the wire back

#10078 10 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Very nice lineup you have there. Where's the Indy 500 pin?

Sitting pretty!

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