Final version of my home made topper

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Joined the club today! Very excited to now have not one but two Lyman games in the lineup. Eager to dive into this gem

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Lot more to install, but I just had to share this gem courtesy of the amazing Mr_Tantrum Thank you Chris, looks amazing!

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Glad you like it. I think the DMD sign ended up coming out nice (cool idea on your part) and looks even better in person than in photo.

My partner is complaining there is a typo (her high score signature is "LES"

Can someone take a look and identify the hardeare used to secure the switch to the lock ranp entrance?

Its just behind the saucer area and at the entrance to the ramp itself.

Mine “self disassembled” and its not clear what hardware was used. I think it must use one of those threaded plates… but maybe more. I’ve only found screws so far

Thx!

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Two screws on the front of the switch. And fish paper between the switch and the bracket.

LTG : )

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Thx but It can’t be just the bracket+screws… as the bracket a slotted hole for adjustment and not threaded

Was trying to see if they used the switch plate with threads or just nuts.

Probably the threaded switch plate which would be easier although either would work.

Hmmm perfect catch!!!

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Insane lineup !

that's what I figured, but thought the plate could be caught up somewhere topside easier. wanted to know what I was looking for. Couldn't find nuts or the plate at the end of the day in the game. Like socks in the dryer.... Found some 2-56 nuts at the hardware store and just used those while waiting on marco parts.

Folks, I'm about to dig into the manual but I thought I would post here in case someone has a quick pointer.

I noticed that the LEDs in the coin door of my AFMr LE were pretty dim. When I removed one, the other got brighter. but still dim overall.

Measuring voltage at the LED connector with both out I get 12V (as expected from the markings on the LED). With one LED in it drops to 5.3V and with 2 in it drops to 4.3V. Doesn't matter what order I put the LEDs in, or which socket. Seems like my machine is having trouble driving the LED load.

This is my first CGC machine so I'm still learning how power is managed and distributed in the beast. Any quick pointers if this is a common issue? I'll be digging into the manual to see what I can find.

TIA!

I see from a series of posts from Mr_Tantrum https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/attack-from-mars-remake-afmr-owners-club/page/162#post-5411031 very similar symptoms, related to the PIN-PCB-CONTRL2 board. There is apparently a dedicated line on the main controller board to the coin door lights (J3-13), and he damaged something on his board with higher power LEDs, when drawing too much current fried something on the controller board.

I have the original LEDs in my coin door, but the symptoms I'm seeing sound identical to what Chris ran into. Maybe something shorted at some point and blew whatever blew on Chris' controller board?

Looking at the schematic, my best guess is that transistor Q1A or capacitor CF18 are toast (my best guess is the transistor). Alas both are surface mount, and I'm not brave enough for that project (esp. on a $400 board). I'm not seeing any physical damage to the components either, which makes me suspect the transistor (an FDC4601) even more.

I'm also not sure if dropping $400 on a replacement board for coin door lights makes sense. Is there a downside to consider in wiring up the coin door to +12V and calling it a day? Lights would no longer be controlled by the controller, but I can't recall the lights coming on or off (all the other lights from that connector are working OK)

Looking at self test mode and the manual, the is an unused L87 nestled between the launch button (L86) and start button (L88) which I suspect is the coin door lights. An alternative to wiring the coin door lamps to 12V is to disconnect the signal line (J3-13) at the coin door LEDs and ground it. If I'm reading the schematics correctly, 12V is working, what is not working is the Q1 transistor pulling the J3-13 line down to ground so the LEDs see the full 12 V. Before I go from a micro frying pan to a raging fire, are others more saavy than me seeing the same thing?

Ironically, I only noticed the dim coin reject LEDs because I was dropping Mr_Tantrum 's cow and saucer inserts into my reject buttons, and wondering why the LEDs are so dim. This is one of those situations where not noticing it would be the easier path on the wallet (don't look at your coin door LEDs to see if they're dim

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I think you have analyzed and captured the issue quite well. Personally, I don’t see any reason why you couldn’t rewire the coin door LEDs directly to the power supply (they would always be on, of course). I would think you could even do so using the 5V supply and use standard bulbs if you wanted. Either way, you could use 3rd party color bulbs if you wanted if you wired direct to power supply and not through board.

My AFMr GI will shut off intermittently during game play for a second or two…completely random and not in connection with any specific shot/switch… anyone else have this issue who can point me in the right direction…much appreciated.

Does someone with an LE mind sharing where the mini saucer pcb board connects to the game at? My wire seems to have come unplugged and i want to male sure i know where it plugs in im at a loss

Thanks

AFMr LE Head PCBs
Hope this helps

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Did anyone order cliffy for shooter lane? Are they suppose to be different lengths? The one on the right is longer than the left thanks

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Yep, that’s not uncommon at all. I put Cliffys on both sides of my shooter lanes and mine are generally different lengths.

Concur

Back in the club again, SE last time, LE this time. Almost forgot how buttery this game shoots! I’m a better player since I owned the last one, ruled the universe for the first time and got 39b. Question, what’s the best scoring strategy after ruling the Im universe?

Also - note to self, CGC cabinets should be a 2-man job, they are heavy compared to a Stern. Taking it out of the back of my truck, almost lost it to the side, would have been ugly. Never again!

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Did you figure this out?

Very nice lineup you have there. Where's the Indy 500 pin?

Nice Line-up ole boy

Nice!!!!

Yes I did thank you! I went back looking at old adds where people posted underplayed shots and was able to trace the wire back

Sitting pretty!

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In the club!

- Can’t believe I didn’t get one when they were NIB
- Second guessing my decision that I didn’t pull the trigger on a green LE last week.
- Just drove home with a CE (with color chip).
- If there is another AFMr run, I’ll replace this with whatever new top model will be. In the meantime, this will be a nice addition to my game room!

If anyone is interested in a signed Flyland Designs alternate translite (not the acrylic backglass), PM me. I’m going to use the original translite.

Also learned that an AFMr doesn’t totally fit in a Subaru Outback. Needed about another 1/2 inch in height. The drive home was nerve racking …

My wife said “I can’t believe you didn’t get an LE. You always get the fancy ones.”

One of the best games i've ever played. Definitely in the top five in my collection.

My CE was manufactured 7/9/20. Is it safe to assume it will have the updated chip/version of the solenoid power driver? I don’t have have the AFM SOL V2.0 sticker.

No sticker or 2.0 sticker is good.

LTG : )

Nice!

I’ve had my games for several years now and recently I am getting more frequent scoop down the middle returns. Sometimes it will fire out hard directly to the left flipper, other times it will dribble out and head right down the middle? Any thoughts?

Glad you found one! Congrats

she's right.. AFMrLE is the peak of CGC AFM CE is a nice AFM... AFMrLE is class

keep on the hunt for an upgrade!

Pull out the mech and inspect for looseness of any screws or any binding.

It may just have loose mounting screws.

Clean or replace the coil sleeve.

Roger that though I doubt I’ll find one as nice as I passed on last week. I’ll keep looking but I’ve got a nice one for now.

My big issue with our AFMr SE is I have attrocious speaker rattle I haven't easily found the culprit for. Speakers sound blown out... but pushing on the speaker panel will affect it. The mounts don't look loose, etc. I haven't invested much in it yet, but it's really starting to annoy me. Anyone else have similar experiences?

If you mean rattle from the speaker panel specifically, I used this solution and it worked pretty well.

I actually thought my speaker was blown as well. Installed a replacement and then realized what was going on.

Thx I’ll check it out!

I just had a new issue pop up with my CE. My right flipper was acting up, so I replaced the coil. I played about 5-10 games with the new coil and had no problems. Then all of a sudden I got an LED problem. After a multiball, the right loop arrow never turned off. I've turned the game off and on several times with no change. The other led's all test fine. Any thoughts on what I can do?

Just wondering if anyone has seen an LE that came from the factory with Stainless trim. Mine did, if I hadn’t unboxed myself I would question it’s authenticity. All I’ve ever seen is an abundance of green trim and a few black but never stainless.

See here at the game comparison: https://www.chicago-gaming.com/coinop/attack-from-mars

Trim color options: Martian Green, Black or Stainless

I'm hoping to join the LE club next year. I bought NIB Wonka instead.

What is the sound upgrade on the SE/LE? Anyone know if it is a significant upgrade to that on the CE? Is it just speakers (i.e. would Pinball Pro or Flipper Fidelity be enough)?

Also - how well is the shaker motor integrated? I’m not a big shaker motor fan but AFMr seems like a good title for one.

Thanks!

Shaker is integrated really really well! Speaker upgrade is a better sub and back box speakers. My SE sounds amazing stock!

Yes! That’s how I ordered mine. Wasn’t crazy about the lime green and wanted to keep the classic look

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Cool!! Classic look indeed. It just seemed odd that I’ve never seen any stainless trim up for sale. The raw finish is super easy to fix small scratches with foam sanding blocks if needed. Powder coat always gets chewed up where the lock down bar meets the side rails.

I was lucky to find an LE NIB for MSRP years ago. All they had was stainless trim and in hindsight I’m glad. Good luck finding one for less than $15k..not sure if there is a number that would make me part with mine. Probably the last machine in decent sized home lineup that I would ever get rid of. Including the Alien LV, Cactus Canyon LE, Big Lebowski and others on order that I don’t even have yet.

If anyone here still has a ROM/display set of an AFMR after upgrading to the XL screen, send me a PM, I’d like to buy this.

So I mean the small display and the ROM for the small display (non colorized I guess)