Cliffys are great and offer complete protection. They should fit well enough on this game.
The included protector is the mantis amusements style protector. It should do the job excellently also.

The mothership slot protector that cliffy offers is a great idea for long time protection as well as the other ones in the complete setup.

I think most of the enthusiasts in this group will probably get some of the cliffys too.

The LED brightness can be adjusted. There is even am incandescent emulation mode for the lighting effects. So you can make it as bright or as dark as you want.

In like Flint !

Wow I loved James Coburn, he is sadly missed.

That is definitely looks like a screw pushing thru, open a support ticket and get it replaced as soon as possible.
If not it will chip out and leave a large hole later down the road.

I would pull out that protector and add the Cliffy one now, it will look like new.

Maybe put a little blue loctite on that set screw.

It looks low in the pics. It should rest no more than 1/64" below the surface, flush would also be good.

Other than adding silly toys to dress up the game, maybe come up with something to cover the ugly hex post sticking up between the ramps.
Its there to solve a ball trap issue but, it really needs something on it to make it look finished.

Modfather? Anyone else??

I would like to install headphone jacks on my AFMrLE.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/afmr-headset-installation

Does anyone else want to do this?

Just received my AFMrLE 0139 !
The game is even more stunning than the sample game I played back in March!
The sound and LED effects are amazing!

This game is a definitely must have for anyone on the fence about getting an AFM or AFMr !

My game was shipped FEDEX freight from IL to NV. only 4 stops along the way.
The game arrived so perfectly, it looked like it would have if still on the factory floor. Not a dent or scratch in the box at all, not even a spec of dust! WOW, just WOW!

Setup was fast and simple. I did however replace the standard pinballs (from the factory, nothing wrong with them at all) with super shiny ones. It seemed appropriate as the game just GLEAMS with beauty!

The game played well on initial startup. The only adjustments I made were to increase flipper to +2 and push strobe lights up one notch for gameplay options.

Also had to push the trough coil up to max to get the ball served 100% of the time on the first attempt (it was set at +1 from the factory).

I have the pitch at 6.9 degrees and it plays perfectly for now.

We put about 20 games on it last night and intend to give it a proper workout tonight and this weekend.
The game plays as smooth as silk.
The flippers came set centered to the lane guides and look slightly drooped compared to some other games, but they are actually just centered. This makes hitting the side targets a joy! Im going to leave them this way for now.

The LED set at slow incandescent emulation (from factory) are just about perfect for me I made no adjustments as they were bright and crisp and easy to read all the inserts.

The only other adjustment was to enable a 10 second ball save. We are so used to a center post from our JJP games, it was comical to watch people drain a ball SDTM and look shocked that it didnt bounce back into play!

Lastly I want to install headphone jacks. Its necessary in my small game room to hear the call outs when all the games are playing.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/afmr-headset-installation

Are all of the connectors seated on all of the boards?

Im getting a lot of ball trough rejects that wont allow the ball to be served.
Im playing with the settings and have it at MAX.
MAX seems too strong and the ball looks like its bouncing off the lip of the apron.
The original setting was +1 and would fail to serve the ball 1 out of 5 times. Should I bend the tab like we did on the WOZ?
I havent taken the time to look at it yet, the game worked pretty much perfectly out of the box other than a few rejected serves.

Ill take a look at it tonight and report back.

Thanks Lloyd!

I almost did that.
But the slight droop makes it easier for me to hit the martians and orbits, but near impossible to backhand the stroke of luck.
So Im on the fence about adjusting the flipper angle until I get a couple hundred more plays on it.

I bent the side tab out about 1/8" now it works perfectly very time on the default as well as the +1 setting.
On close inspection the ball was getting "squeezed" before getting to the shooter lane and falling back into the trough.

Bending the tab worked really good just like on the WOZ!

The screws are black and could be 1/8" longer if possible.

The game is made on a piece of plywood it will settle down in a few weeks.
I usually measure in 3 places and set it to an average of 6.5 for most games.
I have my AFMr set at 6.7 degrees right now it plays fast and fun!

The outlanes are brutal, same as the original!

I hesitate to close the outlanes to make the game play easier but Im not looking for long ball times. I have the Hobbit for that.
I have had great games with the outlanes set as is from CGC.

The AFMr hits it out of the park on so many levels.
I want to sell my MM and get the MMr now !

I had the pitch at 7.2 and the game was really fast! Oddly with that pitch the outlanes were less brutal.
But I settled at about 6.7 degrees with a little higher flipper power.
I get an airball once in awhile but I think the game play seems more balanced at 6.7 degrees, and allows for some nudging fun.

My regular checkup on a shipped game:

Turn off the game.
Check every single connector under the playfield and in the backbox by unplugging and replugging.
Take careful notice that no pins in any connector are pushed out and no wires are loose or cracked or over crimped on connectors.
Check that the fuses are not loose.
Check that the beaglebone black board is seated properly.
look for any loose wires.

After a few games check every single screw for tightness and glue in any loose ones with titebond 3.

Stuff comes loose in shipping.

There is no flipper delay on my game at all.
The flippers are as crisp and new feeling as any of my other NIB games.

However I noticed that the button travel to engage the switch is deep. Not that its any deeper than most other games.
It might be possible to shorten the button travel or lengthen the actuator to get it a little more "hair trigger" feel.

Sometimes 2 layers of "beer seal" (foam weatherstrip)...

This works really well especially if you cant quite get adjusting the brass screws to fix it.

The key is hard to spot.
Its on a buried hook above the left coin mech (with door open). I couldnt find it either but I found it a day later.

Raise the playfield pitch a little and turn down the flippers 1 notch.

Post a pic of the area of the coin door, it might be a fun "Where's Waldo" game for us!

Good call on that!
Definitely no keys on the hook...
Maybe the missing thumb screw and keys are stuck to the speaker magnet from shipping?

I think its simpler the just add additional foam weatherstrip to the lockdown bar and clamp the glass down better in case of rattle.

Im getting some random firing of the diverter when the slings are fully engaged during a game.
Maybe the switch is set too close in the diverter?

Ill try pounding on the PF during a game to see if I can replicate the behavior.
I hope its not a short...

Might just be a loose connector then. I think Ill get into it and start reseating connectors.
I think its under the PF, but you never know, it could just be a loose connection in the backbox.
It looks like its vibration related as it only does it when the slings are both going in full swing.

Thinking along those lines, I believe it only pulses when a ball is locked, and only when the slings fire.
Probably just a loose connection/bad crimp/cold joint on the diverter coil that loses power after being actuated.

It acts kinda like when a pop bumper is set too close and you pound the PF and they fire.

I had a similar problem on WOZ that we called the "Ghost of Dorothy".
When the pops would fire you would hear dorothy saying a single word over and over in the background.

It happend to be the first standup target above the state fair balloon was bent slightly and set too close (they take a lot of abuse). So vibration would make dorothy come alive during a game and talk.

I really liked the idea that Dorothy was dead and buried in the haunted forest! But my wife said it was annoying.

Minus.

I finally closed the outlanes a bit.
I felt that the 67 second ball times were too rough on the crowd that plays my pins.
I also raised the pitch to 7 degrees with the flippers at +1. Some games were a bit floaty at 6.7 degrees.

I really liked the way the outlane adjustment is completely variable and not locked into 3 holes, so I can get it just exactly right.

Ball times are up a little but outlanes are still brutal enough that nudging is required to have a great game.
I still have my flippers set to the factory setting of slightly drooped. It throws everyone off a bit as far as aim but I think its really fun.

Refreshing connectors did the trick.

AFM has always had that little droop in the flippers. Its part of the design, hence the alignment holes being where they are.
The flippers arent actually drooping they are just centered.

A lot of games are set that way, its part of the game.

If you un-center the flippers it makes it harder to hit the side martian targets which is a big part of the game, "killing martians"?

Im leaving my flippers set at the factory angle (droop) and having a blast!
Yes the outlanes are brutal, Yes the ramps reject bad shots and yes the game is tough with shorter ball times most of the time.

But the joy is that not all games are brutal.
Every so often I have a game that lasts forever and everything just "clicks". Followed by a sense of euphoria and accomplishment.

If I want long ball times I can play my Hobbit or WOZ.

AFMr is such a rush there really isnt any reason to fix it or simplify it or make it easier.

As far as the slings are concerned the adjustment isnt fine enough.
Max is just dumb, +1 is too strong, default is too strong and min is too weak.

Im hoping this can be addressed in future code updates.

Give is a few more increments of control on all of the coils.

I guess Im just spoiled with JJP giving us 32 levels of control on the coils to dial them in perfectly.

Oh well JMHO...now its time to "Return to battle soldier"...

Are you measuring with the glass off, on the playfield directly?
Use a cellphone app or a digital level.

Since the center shots are offset to the right, its allows me to hit target from the left flipper and bounce off to the right flipper back onto the left flipper. Rinse,repeat.
Its not super easy but doable once in awhile.

They should be identical.

Maybe refreshing the connections to the opto boards?

After awhile my start button stops flashing.
Its a very small issue but seems odd.
Is is a bad LED? I took it out and checked the wires, they seem proper.

It starts flashing again if you start a game and flashes for a long time then stops again.
I dont think I have a spare to swap out.
It will not start flashing by pounding on it or wiggling it, only by starting a game or power on/off.

What is the type of LED in the start switch, 6 or 12 volt and the color? I really should get some spares I guess.

I had some random sling actuation also and adjusted the leafs.
The factory adjustment was very "hair trigger" which is fine, but a little bit close for me.

Lloyd, what would be a proper gap for sling leaf adjustment? Do people prefer them to be hair trigger?

I have mine at about 1/32" (1mm). They can be closer but I dont want a ball rolling along the rubber to activate when just returning to the flipper.

I want them responsive but no too hair trigger.

After a few adjustments I think its about right for me.

This is good news, thanks!
Im glad its not just me this time

Changing the flipper angle makes it easier to trap the ball but you can still make all of the shots.
All it really does is alter the game to play differently than intended from the designer.
The classic game has the flippers set centered.
However, Its your game and you should set them however you want. Its one of the benefits of owning the game.

On my WOZ I have the flippers set 3/64" up from factory to allow for better ramp shots from the right flipper.
Its part of the dialling in process as well as setting the game pitch. Each game plays slightly different.

Looking into the exit hole bend the silver tab out about 1/16" to get a little more clearance fr the ball.
Its most likely squeezing the ball as it tries to pass thru into the shooter lane.
I just applied a crescent wrench to it, to give it a little more opening.

I chose the black. The semi-gloss is really good at hiding finger prints. Super glossy would look smudgy all the time.
I think it matches the over-all look and visual lines of the game better.

Adjusting the SOL scoop mech isnt too hard:
Turn the power all the way to the max. It should hit high up on the left flipper.
See if it changes throughout the day as power from the wall affects this greatly.
You can also elongate the mounting holes slightly in the mech sideways by side cutting with a drill bit.
This will allow you to turn and adjust the mech as needed.
It only needs a tiny adjustment in most cases, 1/16" is a lot.
Sometimes you can just loosen the mounting screws, twist it firmly and re-tighten the screws while holding pressure on it.

Added over 7 years ago: Sorry, no power adjustment on SOL coil yet.

.

how does it do at full srength?
Is the mech hitting the wood of the playfield twisted all the way to the left?
How does it play plugged into a different outlet?
On my game it will sdtm if I have low power on my street.

I have the flippers at the factory angle, it seems to play properly all around.
I have the slings set at min for now, it plays like a classic one I have played before.

The sling leaf switches were a little too closely adjusted from the factory and I was getting a lot of machine gunning and random firing. So I opened the gap on all 4 switches a little and it fixed that.
This also makes the game a little more controllable. The slings wont fire unless you hit them.
The ball rolling along the rubber to the flippers for a catch wont trigger them for now at least.

I wish there was a slightly higher sling power adjustment as it seems a tiny bit low on min.
Im leaving my game pitch at 6.9 (average) and the flippers are at +2 on my game.

For now it seems to play properly. I may raise the pitch to 7.1 later as it will side drain a little less at that pitch but I like the way my game plays right now.

I use a small drill bit (or you can use an allen wrench) in the wooden hole that fits cleanly with the flippers plastic resting on the tool. I also have a few of the metal pins/adjustment tools that used to come with the games in the old days for this.

On playfield pitch:
I measure in 3 places on the playfield and just get an average between the 3 measurements.
Often the pitch is higher at the top than at the bottom, but it can also be the opposite. Gameplay seems to not be affected either way.

Im using a digital torpedo level but the cell phone apps can also be very good.

a small drill bit for the hole in the playfield and use the plastic gauge that the game came with to set the height of the flipper bat off the bushing under it.

Remove the mech, sidecut the mounting holes with a drill bit that matches the hole size or slightly smaller, twist to the left upon re-installation.
Also it could be a slightly crooked weldment (it happens). Contact CGC for a replacement.

While waiting for the new part do as above.

The SOL scoop is pretty easy to remove. CGC did an awsome job of modularising the game.

Im afraid replacing the assembly wont fix it. Unless you get them to dremmel out the upper holes for you.

The screws that would affect the angle of the scoop were applied via pre-dimpled locations.
The assemblers just applied them with a screw gun as needed.

With the screws in place now there is only one option. Widen the 2 upper holes in the mech about 1/16" to the right and twist it to the left when re-installing it. Use a dremmel (faster) or sidecut with a drill bit (slower). The lower machine screw holes have enough play that they probably dont need adjusting.

No solder needed, 2 machine screws, 2 wood screws, 2 connectors.
The scoop removes in 3 mins. 2 mins to reinstall.

Take the balls out first to be safe.

I guess Im one of the many that cant feel any delay on the flippers.
My scores are similar to any AFM I have ever played, but again Im not a top tier competitor, just a good player.

How do I get a printed brochure for AFMr?
I know I can download it but I dont have a color printer any more since I went to all laser.
It would have been cool to get one with my LE.

Good Idea!
Maybe I can get them to send me one....

Could you make one with the correct AFM martian instead of one from the mars attacks movie?

Its got to be binding somehow.
Take it all apert and inspect it. Something might be broken inside the button.

I was having the issue when you destroy a ship the ball wouldnt register or give you lock instead.
The switch needed to be adjusted so that it would be more sensitive, as other have said.

I simply rotated the switch counter clockwise while listening to the click and actuating the switch arm from under the playfield.

Its rock solid now.

I LOVE THIS GAME ! ! ! !

Anti-rattle tape or a strip if thin cardboard in the slot seems to work.

It can be a tight shot.
Adjust the flipper power down a bit. Im at -2 right now and can repeat the left or right loop when its open several times.
Its incredibly fast after the third loop!

Lift the playfield all the way. Be cautious if you have mirrorblades installed. Just lift it straight on and pull of forward a little so that it hits its stops.
Rotate the switch a little to raise the wire actuator and make it more sensitive. Its on a little bracket tab attached the the subway behind/below the drop target.
You dont have to remove anything and its easy to reach.
You dont even have to loosen the 2/56 screws it will gently turn by hand.
You can actuate it by hand and listen for an audible click to tell if its right.
This will fix it perfectly.

Thank you so much CGC !

AFMrLE is too much fun.

Its incredibly fast and brutal. I had it go into ball search on a ball that forever wouldnt do anything but hit the black ramp bumpers and fall back to a cradled position without hitting even the slings before I drained, I couldnt even hit a switch...

The next game I attacked Mars and finished at 17 billion.

Im humbled and fascinated by this amazing and beautiful game.

I have to play it over and over again. Im so close to RTU I can taste it.

People played it non-stop for hours over thanksgiving, 4 player games were a breeze as the ball times were fairly short.
So many people were waiting to play it I couldnt get a game in until they all left.

Its the only game Im playing now, all the other ones will have to wait. (I must Rule the Universe!)
Im addicted to AFMr...

Does the flipper go back down if the power is off?
Raise the playfield with the power off and see if its mechanical or electrical.
Check to see if anything is binding or loose on or in the flipper mech.
Sometimes its just a coil stop or coil that became loose and can just be reinstalled or reassembled.

post some pics if you can

I forgot about removing the balls! AFMr doesnt have a ball lock for raising the PF. JJP has us spoiled.
Thanks Lloyd.

It is such a simple weighted door flap.
I wonder if it can be retrofitted in games that dont have it.

Yay ! Im glad you fixed it.
The coil stops can come loose from gameplay they take a terrible beating.
In your case they probably forgot to put a little loctite on them at the factory.
Maybe apply a little blue loctite to the threads if it comes loose again.

Also take a look around the game and check to see if anything else needs tightening.
This is good for new games as well as older ones.

Im playing with the flipper settings on my AFMr.
I have had them down to -8 and up to +2.

With the lower settings the game is more predictable and has plenty of power but lacks that feel of battle!
Im back up to default or -2.
The balls can fly off the wireforms on default, but the intensity of the game is improved a lot.
Im going to raise the pitch a little and keep the flippers at a high setting for now.

I really like the intense battle feel of the game at the higher rate in spite of a few airballs.

Its in the CGC menu

I picked up an early version out of the first batch and it pretty much works flawlessly out of the box.
The skill shot works perfectly and never fails to go around the orbit.

I did have to widen the gap out of the ball trough (bent the metal tab 20 second repair).
I also had the outlane paint cracking/checking and CGC immediately sent me new plastics for this.
My mantis style protector for the SOL was very low, they sent me a better formed one, but I think Ill install a cliffy there instead if I get too much wear. I bought the whole set of Cliffys but havent had to install them yet.

Other than that I have just used the adjustment menu to control the game to my liking.
I have the flippers set at default.
I adjusted the right pop bumper setting.
I lowered the strobe light to keep from getting a seizure...
I turned the switch behind the drop target to get it to register near 100%

I might adjust the ball scoop a tiny bit to get it more onto the left flipper next.

The minor adjustments that are needed to get the game working properly are one of the fun parts of owning a game!
If I wanted a piece of art I would buy a picture of the game and hang it on the wall.

My advice is to play it hard!
Bust it up.
Fix it.
Play it harder!!

Its not too bad of an adjustment.
Make is so that the lockdown bar installs easily.
Then turn each screw 1/2 turn and check the tightness of the bar.
Do this a few times until you are happy with the tightness.

I prefer the have the lockdown bar fairly tight so that I have to lean or press very firmly on it for the inside lock handle to engage.

The LE's are supposed to come with coin mechs installed.

Oddly I dont care about chipping on my playfields, maybe Im in the minority? I think that cliffy's are super good to cover wear if it shows up. I buy new in box to enjoy years of use without the cliffy's or additional mylars applied, they do affect game play.
I can add mylars as needed over worn areas to increase the playfield life before replacement but thats years down the road.

1. Pouring a bucket of heavy hard steel ball bearings on nicely painted and clearcoated plywood is probably not recommended.

2. I realize that pinball machines are very much like sports equipment, if you play hard it will break and have to be replaced.

3. I play hard. My wife has over 1500 hours of play on my WOZ alone (its a heavy game and she gets a lot of tilt warnings).

4. I buy pinball machines to play, not as art or an investment. Again, am I in the minority or the majority?

5. The years of enjoyment I get from my collection far outweigh the cost compared to other activities. A cruise is $8000 and is over in a couple weeks. $1000 a day to go to Hawaii the list goes on and on....

JMHO Let the debate continue!

AFM is a fast brutal game by design. Its fun and challenging.
It looks deceptively simple but its not.
My scores range from 300 mil to 20 billion.
Average ball time is 70 seconds.

I have a Hobbit for long ball times average game 20 to 40 minutes.

My AFMRle is for when I want a fast brutal game with tons of live catches and nudging.
I surprised that the black post rubbers haven't split off for how many times they get hit instead of the ramp entrances on any given game.

Im absolutely going to try this!

Open up a ticket and request a replacement.
Its obviously a bad/poorly prepped blank with wrong colors on it. It probably should have been rejected as a blank before it was printed. The clearcoat should protect the surface from any indoor climate variations. Not all plywood is perfect, its an organic product.

It will take some time to get a swap-out but they will do it. CGC is a good company to deal with.

Play the hell out of the game and really enjoy it in the mean time.

Some have adjustments to be made but not all.

Raise the playfield physically turn the switch body (behind the drop target assembly) a little so that the wire arm is a little higher.
Make sure it still clicks when you actuate it, you can hear it if its quiet in the room.
If the switch seems loose, tighten the tiny screws on the side a little until it firms up, but make sure the switch arm is as high as it will go and still click properly.

Generally you dont need any tools for this adjustment.

Adjustments are a part of the hobby.
All pinball machines need to be tweaked and adjusted once they are setup.
See if a fellow pinsider is near you to help work out your settings. Im sure they will be happy to help out.
They generally work for beer or food.

The black is probably a knot in one of the plys.
I have see that on several B/W playfields it usually black or very dark wood.
Some of the restorers just paint over it and airbrush grain in that area.
It wont affect game play as its harder than the regular wood, but its is unsightly.
The clear might not adhere to it properly due to its hardness so I would put mylar over it or give that area a special treatment.
But if the game is a collectors edition I would at least get a replacement playfield to make the game more collectible.

The blank should have been rejected during a visual inspection or used for a classic version of a game and not a collectors version where appearance is more important.

The same as any of the planking playfields.

I have had zero issues after 500 games.
The game plays as it should and I have no complaints.

Im reading this thread and seeing that a few people have some cosmetic issues on their games.
They are very vocal and are gaining sympathy from pinsiders in general.

I dont think that the cosmetic issues I have read, affect gameplay at all.

From a players perspective, only issues that affect gameplay are valid. It is a game after all.

Color variations on playfields are as old as pinball itself and can be sorted out in time if need be.

Chipping of clearcoat is to be expected and can be controlled fairly easily by the end user if they want.
Apply full sheet mylar or a makrolon full protector if you want. Its the end users choice as much as whether you wax your car or not.

example: My $12K Seedoo has scratches all over it from only 5 uses. My $200 baseball bat has scratches after only one game etc.

This does not mean that CGC is making an inferior product at all.

Its simpy pinball.
Anything that affects gameplay they immediately respond to, as they should.

Damning a game manufacturer for a relatively small percentage of defects is unfair and misleading.
How they respond to individual cases, on an individual basis, has not proven to be what the majority can expect at all.
All pinball machines have had quirks and poorly engineered parts that had to be remade or re-envisioned down the road.

The aftermarket is filled with these solutions.

JMHO... please go back to beating up CGC for no reason now

I'm a player not an art collector.

I agree.

The way I see it is, the only way you would get a logo'd panel would be if it was a licensed exact replacement part for an original game.
Any changes would be aftermarket and not be able to be logo'd
Any changed parts would have to be given or sold to bally or williams and then manufacturing rights would have to be purchased to use their logo.

The right to display the logo on the screen would be contained within the right to use their software.

You can actually get or make a stick on logo for that area as long as you dont sell it[ it would be considered fan art, if you need it.
Or get an original speaker panel and possibly modify it to fit.

I think it amounts to a licensing issue:

OEM replacement parts are one thing.

Complete manufactured games are another.

The games were not made at the Williams/Bally facility or by Williams/Bally.

Its a complicated issue when it comes to license and branding especially when there are multiple parties involved.

One interesting note: The AFMr is essentially being made by the same company as the originals.

In my mind these are not Re-makes but really a continuation of the original with normal production updates.

They could have just continued the serial numbers from where they left off.

What's a popular number you'd have to contact the owner and buy it from him when he's ready to sell.

Perfect!

Im at default.
I hit so many weak shots to the ramps, barely under my control, that I need all the help I can get.

Im super pleased that an errant sling shot can deflect and go up to the lock!

Its true that at -3 the game is way more controllable, but one would have to be in control for that to be a factor (mostly I am not at this point) in the first place.

Im not getting anything off the rails now with pic 2.0, so it suits my lack of expertise well enough at default.

I always try to measure upper, middle and lowest playable points.
Then take an average.

I also try to determine if one of the outlanes favors the other and will change the horizontal level accordingly.
Ball inertia in some games has to be accounted for.
The audits are helpful on this.

If the game is floaty I adjust the rear legs half a turn or so until the floatyness goes away.

After playing 50 or so games if it plays good, I leave it.

Some games are way more sensitive to leveling (IJ and TH come to mind, lots of others).

AFM is pretty good at a lot of different playfield pitches depending on how fast you want it to play.

I love that!
No reward for failure soldier...!

Welcome to AFM!
War is Hell.
Return to battle soldier...

Yes.
War is Hell.
Return to battle soldier...

I think I prefer the mirrors. It looks like a larger landscape that it really is and bounces more light into the game.

Im not ready to do anything that extreme but I do like what your thinking and see how you got there

But I'll admit that I have started a lot of 4 player games just to get a rhythm going. It seems to help me get 1 or 2 good games out of the 4.

People have applied electrical tape wrapped along the edges.

Seems to work good there's a product called anti rattle tape which is essentially the same thing.

Also one could turn down the Shaker motor a little bit until it stops rattling the glass.

Get it for the best price you can.
It's an amazing game!
You cant go wrong with black.
It's what I chose and the game isn't leaving soon at all.

A lot of people paid $9000 with tax and shipping.

Nice vid!
But they are Martians!!! (not so much UFO's or aliens... lol)
They want our Women! (and alot of other stuff too It seems...)

They all must die! (or die trying...)

Return to battle soldier...

They are most likely locked into a price agreement with cgc.

I love mine in the black trim.
To me it seems to outline the artwork and match the lines of the game better.
But I might not be as much of an "outside the box" kinda guy. (im also color blind...) lol

I have those glasses!
Sadly they only work outside, but they do make things look different by about 40%. (which is a lot to me)
There is also a $40 pair of glasses I bought that does a fair job too, just not quite as good, but still an improvement.

So for $400 I can see colors better in bright daylight (its a good thing really)!

you dont need much.
maybe cliffys.
comes with metal leg protectors.

get the SE or the LE the big screen is nice.

Maybe a Houdini!

I like the dots. I really like the big wide hi-res screen it seems perfect for the game.
The clean dot free look wouldnt look right on the game to me.

However I did choose the smooth look for the color DMD on my ToM, it seemed to match better.