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Should I be looking for something here!?
Thanks!

U a funny guy Punkin :]

I tried to install the S.O.L. cliff protectors and everything went perfect except the post closest to the SOL on the right side, and part of the ramp, would not come out. I removed the bolt under the playfield of course but no matter what I attempted the post was impossible to turn and remove. Has anyone else run into this issue? Does anyone have a suggestion on how I can get this post out? It drove me crazy having everything removed and then not to be able to complete the install.

Thanks in advance,

Chris

You must remove the nut and washer, then use a hammer and punch tool to lightly tap the post up from the underside of the playfield. It is a tight fit, but does come out without damage.

Thank you. I did remove the nut and washer. The post hole is not a threaded hole? I get gently tapping it up with a hammer but what type of punch tool would I get to do this? Sorry for lack of knowledge on this.

Leave the nut on at the end of the post and then just gently tap with a hammer or plastic mallet. It doesn't take much to get the post to start moving.

That's awesome. Thank you very much. I will try it this evening.

Chris

What he is saying is to first loosen the nut, tap the post from the topside with a rubber mallet to loosen the fitting, then remove the nut/washer, and finally pull out the post.
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No, it's not threaded into the wood. Any kind of punch and/or stiff metal dowel will work. Just something to get upward force on the end of the post without potentially hitting and damaging surrounding elements. These are the types of punches I used, and the method worked perfectly without damaging the playfield or enlarging the hole.
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I think maybe the advice was to loosen nut but leave slightly still on then tap with hammer. Then remove nut then post.

The nut is left on not to damage the threads of the post. Once the post moves off course you would take the nut off to get the post thru the the hole. Sorry that had to even be explained

Wow!

My apologies, as that wasn't how I read it but I can now see what you intended to say (thought there might have been some confusion on which post it was or something which is why I posted a photo of it). Just trying to make sure he has specific instructions as plenty of people following instructions literally can and do break things. Sorry for my misunderstanding.

I always find boilermakers can and will find a way to misunderstand something you think is clear as day (even with a drawing sometimes) and make it exactly the opposite way.

It takes 5 mins to comprehend how they could have interpreted what you said that way, but in the end you can see that it's possible.

On a different note, does anyone know how/where to safely/reliably tap into a 12V supply on AFMr for an accessory w/o having to add an additional power supply?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/attack-from-mars-remake-afmr-owners-club/page/128#post-4817600

Haven't tried it myself, but at the power supply should be safe enough, at least in terms of not overloading any boards on the game.

That’s what I thought at first too, but he’s a little wishy-washy in the that he thinks that is what he did.

My other concern is that I don’t know enough about circuits to understand something. Previously, I messed up the board the coin doors route through in the backbox by overloading the circuit with a 12V coin door bulb that drew too many amps. This wiring runs from the PS to the board and to the light socket. If I tap onto the same PS leads, could this have the same impact by passing too much current through the driver board?

Just saw in manual bill acceptor plug is 12V. Might could tap into that connector, especially since I’ll never have the need for one just need to figure out the pin out.

They solve most of my problems...

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Is PINPAC 7 CG3 still the only external volume control option for this pin?

Actually, I just leaned the PINPAC 7 does not have the ability to adjust the external volume, rather, only the headphones volume. Does anyone have a solution?

While I do not see them on their website they had/have a master audio control for all 3 CGC games.
2 control knobs for main and headphone volume and a rocker switch to mute the main speakers.
I love them, to be able to turn the volume up and down without opening the coin door is wonderful.

That's what I would like. I've installed an external volume control on every other pin I own or have owned. May seem like a small thing to some, but in my environment different people like the volume at different levels, and sometimes the action going on in the rest of the house deems the pins be turned down some.

I just sent them an email, so I'll wait to see what their response is and will update the group.

For those interested in an external volume control solution, I received a response from Pinnovators and they indeed have options. Here is the summary of their response:

There are 2 or 3 options depending upon coin door type:
1) PinPac 7 PM-MAC (door type H) | Used two push buttons to control system volume up/down
2) PinPac 7 Roto-MAC (door type H or C) | Utilizes the coin reject buttons for volume up/down (see attached video)
3) PinPac 7 Mech- MAC (door type H or C) | Utilizes a rotating knob to control system volume up/down

Here is the link for the items: https://pinnovators.myshopify.com/collections/chicago-gaming-headphone-kits

They are more expensive than their other items, and this is explained by the additional labor required to manufacture them.

Personally, I'm still on the fence due to price point. However, I don't foresee any other option coming out anytime soon, so I may end up biting the bullet and convincing myself to get one.

Finally took the time to fix a couple of nagging issues I've had ever since I've installed Cliffy protectors. On occasion (not every game, but fairly often) the ball would get caught up on the Cliffy at the force field target bank and at the back of the SOL when dropping from the pops. I addressed each in the following manner:

1) The SOL. My Cliffy is sitting as flush as possible to the surface of the playfield but if a ball was travelling slowly in that area it would catch the edge of the Cliffy and come to rest before falling into the SOL. The only way to get it off is to bump the pin pretty hard, and about 50% of the time I tilted. I tried everything to adjust the Cliffy, but to no avail. However, the solution for this was simple. I cut a piece of clear gloss adhesive vinyl just wide enough to fit the area and about 1/2" in depth, rounded the corners, then applied the clear strip even with the front edge of the Cliffy where it meets the SOL hole. Pressed it down and it is invisible from the player's view. Tested by hand, and it is now impossible for the ball to hang up there.

2) The forcefield target bank. Again, Cliffy protector is installed nice and snug but on occasion if the ball was moving really slowly and side to side it would hang on the lower gap between the Cliffy and the top of the target bank. I tried adjustments under the playfield with forward/backward position and up/down positions but no matter what I did the ball would still hang either on the upper or lower gap depending upon how I had things set. Upon closer inspection, what I realized is the top of the target bank was not completely parallel with the playfield surface. In other words, if I made it where the back of the bank was in plane the front was below plane and the ball would catch there. If I made the front in plane then the back was high and the ball would catch there. I tried all kinds of adjustments with screws and washers and bending and positioning the target assembly, but to no avail. I ended up removing the target bank piece from the game and when looking at it from the side it hit me. The top of the target bank was not in parallel alignment with the mounts that are secured parallel to the playfield, so no matter what kind of adjustments I tried to make, I would never be able to fix it. However, this piece is made out of plastic so I had an idea. I used my heat gun on low to soften the underneath side of the target bank top. It became malleable enough that I was able to bend the top just the couple of degrees I needed at stayed in place. I reinstalled, made some height adjustments, and now when in the down position it is perfectly parallel to the playfield and no more ball hangs at either the upper or lower gap.

Unfortunately, I didn't take any photos while I was working on things (left my phone in another room, and didn't want to run downstairs to get it - I know, lazy). However, hopefully I've described my resolutions well enough, and I'm happy to go in more detail if anyone else has these issues and would like to address them.

Now, I'm back to loving everything about this game and no longer have the headache (or embarrassment when friends play) of it not functioning perfectly every game.

I know this isn’t for everyone one. I installed keyless locks on my coin doors, no need for external volume control.

The main point for me is twofold: 1) We are constantly changing volume on the games, and while I admit it's fairly lazy of me I just find it to be a nuisance to have to open the coin door and use the buttons. 2) It is not intuitive for visitors nor my son's friends, and I don't really want anyone besides me in the pin anyway (reason I removed my keyless locks and put the keyed ones back on). However, a volume knob on the outside (like I have on my Williams and Stern pins) is quite intuitive to anyone.

I find it the volume doesn't bother anyone.

Until they have access to the control.

Everyone fucks with the volume on GnR once they know where it is. No-one asks me to adjust volume on other games.

Back in the club! I had a classic edition before.

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When I first bought my classic edition, I had the issue with the launch not making it up to the top often. It looks like this game has the same issue. Does CGC still send out the replacement ball guide that goes just to the right of the pop bumper nest? That sorted things out before.

Out of them. And only effected about 50 games. Majority sent out didn't need it. The PDF is floating around if you want to bend yours. Odds are you don't need it.

LTG : )

Did you increase launch power all ready in the adv. service menu?

Mine wasn’t always making it to the top as well. After examining closely, it seemed the ball was slamming into the turn too hard and causing the ball to slow and retreat back down. I actually lowered my power from stock setting and it makes the shot 99% now.

Just an idea if this could be someone else’s issue

Small imperfections in the ball launch seem to be able to cause disproportionately weak launches. I was getting a strong launch and then I installed one of the shooter lane Cliffys off just ever so slightly. It was enough to cause the ball to launch just slightly off center, causing it to bank off one of the sides and then may or may not make it out of the shooter lane gate at the top.

I found a similar situation with of of my Sterns. The auto launch plunger wasn’t hitting my ball perfectly centered and it appeared to be a weak launch when in fact it was just friction forces coming from an off center ball launch.

Your name made me chuckle when I saw it. Years ago I had a manager who was an ex-Navy pilot. There were times in casual conversation or when introducing him to my customers that I would refer to him as a Navy pilot, but each and every time he always corrected me with "Naval aviator". I never intended to insult him, quite the contrary, but I now understand the difference. I just wasn't sure why is was so important to correct me with the specific term with non-military people who understood that he flew airplanes while serving in the Navy.

Thanks folks. The original owner didn't even know about the cgc menu, so I didn't figure he would have changed it. but the autolaunch was set to -1. I changed it to default and super skill shots are back in action.

Had a pretty good game on it already too. Destroyed Mars but needed another multiball to get the super and RTU.

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What is the super skill shot?

Cool thanks, same as Deadpool. I didn't know. That's a top reward and should help my scoring.

Hi-Ho, Hi-Ho it's off to practise i go.

I didn't know about the SSS. I just thought that launch method was for lowering the forcefield with a single hit within time. Going to give it a try. I guess the trade off potentially is not acquiring enough hits to achieve super pops (although I'm not sure which is more valuable points wise)?

UPDATE
Just tried it out and on my first try, voila . . . 50M points!

Much closer to total annihilation as well.

As a fairly early adopter, I just bent everything related and solved it early on.

Really not too much effort was involved.

Never got more than three lit at a time anyway. I didn't know about that bonus either. Probs should read a rule sheet for some of my 'simple' games. Feels like i'm cheating though.

Lowering the force field is the benefit here. Dangerous shot otherwise.

FYI, for anyone in search of a replacement SOL scoop, I just posted one for sale: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/116657

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My toddler loves our new AFM. All he needs is a diaper and an atomic blaster and he will save the world from those martians.

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Wanted to let the group know that I just finished installing my new PinPAC 7 + Roto MAC external headphone jack with cabinet speaker volume control, and love it. You can see my full write-up here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/just-installed-pinnovators-pinpac-7-roto-mac-on-my-cgc-afmr#post-6370355

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it won't be long til we're doing the same thing .

Thats what i have and i really like it.

Is it a common issue to have left ramp flap not touching the playfield?