Twist and lift. Flasher cover holds them on.

LTG : )

Just time consuming. Under playfield unhook connectors. Above playfield remove lock nuts and screws. Remove ramps with hardware that is left on. One wireform might be cable tied with the wiring.

Just like shopping an AFM. Original or remake.

LTG : )

You just need to develop some pinball tools.

I have an assortment of ball drivers, shallow sockets, precision micro ratchet screwdrivers, wobble extentions and a whole bunch of assorted ignition wrenches and tiny tools.

Also Im always on the lookout for more interesting tools to fit into tight places.

All mostly magnetized at this point lol.

Dropping screws, nuts and washers is the bane of pinball.

I have spent way too many hours looking for dropped hardware in the black void of a pinball machine.

for instance, this is the only tool for removing the face of rudy on a funhouse:

https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-DR-55-Profile-Ratchet-Screwdriver/dp/B00B4TECTQ/ref=asc_df_B00B4TECTQ/

I use it all the time lol

While the saucers themselves rotate and can be removed, the mounts are riveted on so you would have to drill out the rivets to fully detach them. I was going to get my wireframes powder coated, but this prevented me from doing it.

Copied from Williams. About the same as many of their DMD era games. They weren't made to be easy to clean. Check out STNG or Demo Man.

LTG : )

Hoping for some help or advice, as this MUST be a problem for other owners as well. When the ball is at high speed, it frequently likes to "jump" off the lower-right habit trail at the second bend. The ball usually lands in the outlane for a drain. It's very frustrating when it happens. Especially because it's usually only after I've combed a few ramps/shots that the ball is going fast enough to do this. So it only happens when I'm making my shots!
InkedIMG_7718_LI (resized).jpg
I've got the game level, and pitched to about 7 degrees. I've turned the flipper power down as well. Any lower though, and the flippers start to feel sluggish. So I was wondering if anyone had made some kind of airball protector? It seems like you could use either of those two screws/posts by the martian to attach something.

It's only a problem because Bally went with half-pipe habit trails, instead of full-surround ones. Somebody must have some ideas. Thanks!

Put a washer or 2 under the lower right foot of the wireform to bank it more towards the center.
Bend the wireform slightly to bank it a little.

lower the pitch to 6.7 degrees. the ball is going too fast.

Alright, thanks for those tips. I'll give em a try. Also, the ball was hopping even when I had the game pitched at 6.5 degrees. So I don't think that's necessarily the issue.

If you see my post #7928 I put a piece of dead foam on the ramp to slow the ball down. Works for me and doesn’t look that bad.

Once you get the pitch, flipper power and bank of the wireform dialed in, the problem goes away.

Careful banking/tilting of the wireform helps a lot. Washers and a slight bend of the support wires, or the feet, works wonders.

Properly dialed in:

The ball should not race around the ramp from a clean shot from a cradled position, but make it up the ramp easily, but slow down and let gravity pull it down back into play.

Its normal for a weak shot to run back down the ramp and try to exit the right outlane.

Good call. I had to use that trick on my Black Knight and on my Phantom of the Opera for some areas where I needed to slow the ball down.

Putting everything back together. Forgot to take pic of proper placement of these on the left ramp. If someone could snap a pic or two and post them here it would be greatly appreciated.[quoted image]</blockquote

The square one goes by the big post near the ball return scoop. The angled one goes by the ship in the corner. The point of the angled piece is towards the flippers, it goes on the big post that holds the plastic ramp.
685A64BE-AD00-4928-807B-50ADC0E48CC1 (resized).jpeg
F0A31A4E-6191-45AF-BC19-95E14AAA76FC (resized).jpeg

The square one goes by the big post near the ball return scoop. The angled one goes by the ship in the corner. The point of the angled piece is towards the flippers, it goes on the big post that holds the plastic ramp.

6335CC3A-45DF-4832-815A-E6F3D0627212 (resized).jpeg

C2027531-3EBF-4069-8BA6-ADE441DB55D2 (resized).jpeg

New AFM SE owner here. LOVE this pin. So challenging and addicting. Occasionally right orbit shot does not register. Random AF. Example, I hit a super skill shot to right orbit. Nothing. I think its the upper switch.

Also this AFM outlanes are brutal! Reject the lock shot and ball falls back directly to right outlane.

I am planning to have the saucers repainted. What is the best way on how to remove the inner board and the dome from the saucer? It seems they are glued together. Where to pry it open - what is the best way to proceed here? Thanks for any info!

IMG_0255 (resized).jpg

IMG_0256 (resized).jpg

The dome is simple . . . you just firmly push down from top of dome - no prying and no tools needed (other than your hands). I can't remember if the circuit board comes off with it or not, but would be the same concept. There may be a spot of glue holding it in place, but for the most part just friction fit.

You were right, they just pop off, even though there was some glue there. Now just to figure out how the underside separates.

IMG_0257 (resized).jpg

Probably the same way, but you will have to be careful not to damage the boards. Can you tell around the inside and outside perimeters if there is any glue? If you shine a bright light down through the circuit board can you see any glue dobs on the other side? It might be possible to lightly head using a hair dryer or heat gun, but you will want to be very careful not to overheat or melt anything. However, a little heat might be enough to loosen the glue where you can pop the circuit board off.

Hmm, I cannot see glue, I will try to remove the bottom with a toothpick, pressing from above.
EDIT: it does not seem to detach that way. I looks like there are 4 pillars in the edge of the hole - maybe there is glue there. I probably need to get a hairdryer.

IMG_0260 (resized).jpg

It's only paint, you could mask it maybe?

Be sure to mark the orientation before you remove. Not sure if it matters or not, but better safe than sorry.

When messing around with this stuff I tend to look at risk reward. Risk of breaking stuff versus the improvement.
Masking seems like a good idea.

Thanks for all the information guys! Apparently the leds can be covered fairly easily for the paint job, so no need to go and try to remove the bottom.

Just joined the club on an LE recently but I think I'm missing a part. Is there supposed to be an AC cover on the back? Can anyone point me where I could find a replacement if so? Thanks!

cover (resized).jpg

You're looking for the inlet cover on the power cord - here's the link on Planetary Pinball.

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=GS-6385&CatListingOffset=120&Offset=120&Per_Page=12&Sort_By=disp_order

PPS has the typical one you'll find everywhere :

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-01-10714

Contact Sara at Planetary Pinball Supply to see about the flat one with two holes for the remakes.

LTG : )

I installed mine.

I didnt want the cat unplugging the game while i was defending earth.

Pasta heads...!

Awesome thanks everyone! Yeah my dog frequently goes under the games.. I dont want her snagging that cord out by accident.

This is the plastic guard piece behind the marsian on the right. How is it secured to the plastics - are these kind of screws used as highlighted with arrows?
Or if something else, what?

For some reason this plastic guard came off from the game, need to secure it in its place again.

Thank you for any help!

IMG_0466 (resized).jpg

Your arrow is pointing to a locknut. Remove both of them. Stick the plastic onto the plastic with the artwork, screws through the holes, put the locknuts back on. Done.

The plastic with the artwork has to be removed to put this back on.

Somebody took it off. It's bolted on.

LTG : )

Thanks LTG!

I installed a lit drop target in my pin today. It's SO much easier to see if it's up or down now.

The photo doesn't really do it justice...

IMG_7771 (resized).jpgIMG_7772 (resized).jpg

That's kind of cool. Was it a DIY or kit (either way, can you share)?

Pinball life clear drop target.
https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-300-0021-00-71

Then just mount a light in front of it. I did the same thing on my TNA and FT. The area in FT is so dark normally, that I know of an owner that didn't even KNOW there was a drop target there. I used a comet flex bulb on AFM and a normal 2SMD on FT. Again, it looks more noticeable in person on the AFM.

64256772728__F1DDDD08-A7EE-4A28-9354-AD0F5669CB5C (resized).jpg

Unfortunately, I don't need to order anything else right now, so will have to wait. I might look at actually 3D printing one. Also, I still like my decal for this target, but I think illumination will look good in combination.

pasted_image (resized).png

Just testing the waters here, I need to sell my HUO SE addition machine, my plans were to put in out on location, but because of the Corona Virus stuff I never really did. I’m sorry to see it go, it is perfect from the factory, but I now decided to just sell it.

I will post pictures soon, if I decide to sell it on Pinside.

My additions to this machine are; I have installed two of the bicolored mini saucers, circuit board etc., that are only found on the LE version, (don’t ask), lighted flipper buttons, 4 LED lighted Big O Jiggly Martians.

But my real news is that mickspinball.com has invented a new Martian/space ship topper, it is designed for any AFMr machines, sans the LE version of course…Still working on an official launch date at this time.

Please let me know if there is any interest, or questions regarding either…

Thank you,

Mick

Mickspinball.com

Will the topper work on a Bally?

Sorry, I was thinking the CGC topper. No idea on this one.

LTG : )

Yes it will work on the original Bally version, I am putting together a kit for the remakes, easy, just plug and play....I sold my original AFM so I am not sure where to grab the necessary power at this time..or what voltage to build it for, as it will be a little different for the original.

Thanks for asking,

Mick