Some of the backglasses on my machines need a wiggle at the top to get them to slide up into the cavity. try pushing on the top of the backglass while pulling up at the bottom. (or it might have already been unlocked )

When this happens on one of my pins (usually after a move) it is because the speaker panel has "lifted" and a wire has found it's way under the speaker panel. And because the speaker panel is raised, the backglass which rests on it is raised too high as well.

If you have a tool to remove the torx security screws at the lock, as LTG has suggested already, you can remove the lock altogether which should solve your problem whether or not it is due to the position of your speaker panel.

Hello everyone, I just bought this pinball machine, do you think the PIC 2.0 is installed ?
Thanks, Julien

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Remove the backglass and look at the label on the chip.

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There is nothing written on the rom

When was the game manufactured?

July 13, 2017 is the Build Date from his screen shot. And his ROM is not labeled V2.0.

He needs to upgrade.

No, the build date there is for the CGC software, not the date of assembly. On the back of the game is a paper label—when was the game made?

Open a ticket under Support - Help Desk at https://www.chicago-gaming.com/ they can check by serial number or when the game was registered.

LTG : )

Then it may not not be SOL 2.0, and you might need the updated chip (follow LTG instructions to confirm).

Not sure what your experience will be, but thought I would share mine. I bought my LE pre-owned about a year or so ago, and it did not have the SOL 2.0 ROM. I opened a ticket with CGC, and they told me I needed to get it from the distributor. Fortunately, the person I bought it from was the original owner and he worked with me and the distributor to get it taken care of.

So what is different about the 2.0 version?

Not necessarily. Please check with CGC to be sure.

You can change coil strengths without problems that could effect the coil or driver board.

LTG : )

Going through my new machine and tweaking some things. I saw someone mention “adjusting the lock bar tension”. Nothing in the manual and I can’t see anything intuitive on the mechanism. Can someone post a pic of where to tighten?

Also, my ball launches seem to be inconsistent. I have the power set at Max. Some launches are strong. Others barely make it over the ramp and then dribble back to the playfield. I thought of, at the very least, I could clean up the solenoid assembly but it looks very clean and the machine only has about 800 plays. Suggestions?

Take lockdown bar off. Look at top of lockdown bar receiver. See the two brass screws ? You can turn them to raise or lower the mechanism in the lockdown bar receiver to loosen or tighten the lockdown bar.

A few screws hold the auto launch coil and plunger. First thing is check if the plunger is hitting the center of the ball. If not you can loosen the screws and turn as needed to hit the ball better.

If you need help stop in and I'll show you.

LTG : )

I've been debating whether or not to purchase some anti-glare glass for both my new AFMr LE and new JP Prem, and after reading all the reviews and talking to someone who actually owned some, I decided to purchase two sheets of VooDoo Glass from Cointaker based on Cointaker's reputation and that VooDoo seems to be the most economical option available at this time.

Well, the glass arrived today, and I just finished installing it. What I will say is that it doesn't really remove reflections caused by light sources (they are still there, but maybe to a slightly less degree), but what I'm incredibly pleased with is the clarity of the glass. It truly looks like there isn't even any glass installed. Also, I think by "non-glare" the glass brands don't mean you won't see reflections. Rather, their is no cloudiness in the glass, thus eliminating the glare/diffusing of light caused by the haziness of regular pinball glass. You may not even think regular pinball glass is hazy, but looking at two pins side by side with the different glasses, it is noticeably obvious.

If you've been on the fence like I was for quite some time, my recommendation is to definitely make the purchase. Again, VooDoo was my choice, but I know there are a couple of other brands out there of similar quality.

Yeah, I have both stern HD and invisiglass. They dull some reflections, but yeah, they are still there. The real difference, like you said..is the clarity. So clear that you don't think glass is there.

I have invisiglass on my WOZ and regular glass on my AFM. You know, it's funny, until you guys started talking about it, I never even thought about buying a sheet for AFM. I do really like it on my WOZ, but apparently I have just realized that it's not a must-have for me.

As you said, the invisiglass does look super clear, I find this especially true near the flippers. As you get higher, it's less noticable due to the glare of the backbox.

I also find that it seems to be a bit harder to get clean, especially around the edges. At least for me it always seems like I can see smudges at the edges. They will go away by cleaning very carefully and then being sure not to touch it when putting the glass back in.

Yeah that was definitely it - The plunger was quite a bit off center (pic with ball). All three screws were loose.

THANK YOU for the tips and support!

I also included a pic of the assembly for anyone else that may need to go in and tweak the mount. I turned the mount for the pic to show just how far off center the plunger can get if the mount drifts off due to loose screws.

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My glass was also vibrating very badly when the shaker motor ran. I replaced some of the foam on the lockbar, tightened the lockbar, and then put some of this felt tape I bought off Amazon along the edges of the glass. No more rattle!

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August 13 2020

@AAAV8R, good suggestion.

You should also check the vertical alignment. Mine was hitting off the ball centerline, causing a bit of a bounce upon plunging.

I torqued the assy a bit to improve the alignment. The bracket assy is very soft steel.

You’re good. The issue has long since been corrected on newly made games. You can contact CGC to be completely sure.

Thanks

Hello, could someone give me the size of the molex connectors used for general illumination? I have a mod that needs to be plugged in but I've been provided with alligator clips? I will have to make a coupler.

here you go ->

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/attack-from-mars-remake-afmr-owners-club/page/148#post-5233027

See previous post by @gogdog. If you prefer to purchase them ready-made, I can offer for $10 for the first and $5 each additional in the same order including shipping (just PM me). Also, you can minimize the number of splitters you need by using Comet Matrix 2 or 3 way Y-cables where it makes sense to do so.

I wanted to post some photos of the great work that PantherCityPins did for me with the Martians. I was needing some model painting done form some of my JP dinosaurs, and since he had previously posted pics of some of his fine work I made contact with him. I have four of Mick's Big-O-Jiggly Martians with the red LED eyes, and I thought my Martians deserved a little more love. The paint job is great, and took a lot of effort to make them look as good as they do. Thanks again, @Pinball_Gizzard!

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I think I know the answer, but is there an external volume control / headphone jack for AFMr other than Pinnovators PinPac 7? I know they make high quality products, but $135 for a headphone jack is just more than I'm looking to pay if at all possible. It even makes it more difficult for me given that I just purchased a Pinball Life SPIKE 2 external volume control/headphone jack for just $50 to install in my brand new JP Premium.

My pleasure, they look great installed!

Anybody in the Southeast selling a Classic Edition?

Anyone have any input on the topic?

I have the pinnovators setup, couldn't be happier.

Same here...

So while I wait for a new PF PCB (warranty item) thought I might throw out my issue to see if anybody has any thoughts.

My saucer flasher (3 LED’s through the green dome) is on full time, from the minute I flip the power switch to the minute I turn it off. I’ve changed out 3 saucer boards (still does it) and I’ve run a continuity test all from the saucer board (J1 pinall the way through to PF PCB (J14) and then all the way to the little Q43 chip that controls the flasher (lower right leg).

What I did notice recently (as I’m waiting on several months now for a new board) was that when I test the flasher (in the settings), it actually does flicker just a hair (you have to look very carefully!), so it’s getting the signal. But it’s like the power is bleeding through full time. I’m a bit over my skis on the electrical side, but is it possible maybe a diode is bad allowing power through to this flasher lamp full time?

Haven’t posted this for a bit, anything I can do to test? I can solder, never soldered such small connections (maybe should have bought an original with bigger boards!)

Thanks!

Curious about this as well but not from a headphone jack perspective.

I have my volume set to 2. And it’s still too loud. If I go to 1, it becomes too quiet. I would expect a bit more variation and was curious if there is any adjustment to volume control (built in or external) on this machine that I’m missing or could add.

I'm on 9 or 10.

Im on 7 or 8.

Yeah, i turn mine down to that if someone's playing it on days were trying to talk rather than play.

Lol. Well maybe I have sensitive hearing. Either way. I want mine at 1.5. Is there something I can do/install?

Maybe, maybe you have a fault though.

For what it's worth, I agree with you - my AFMR ce is super loud and I have it set on 1.

Unfortunately I have no advice on how to get 1.5.

Does anyone know what this cord is for and where is it supposed to be plugged into? I am the second owner of this AFM LE and it was unplugged and laying inside the cabinet when I got it.

20210116_150831 (resized).jpg

Looks like for a mod that was removed. Follow it back and see where it goes.

LTG : )

That is a RGB+ cable. I’m wondering if the previous owner had some kind of LED mod he removed. Where does the other end lead to?

Ok so I traced the 4 wires back and the red and black wire lead back to the left ramp J5 spot. The blue wire is wired into the saucer J14 spot, and the green wire is wired into the right ramp J12 spot. Should I unplug all of those wires from the board since I dont need them?

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Yes. Please.

LTG : )

Whoever did that did some pretty bad work. I’d get that out of there fast. That’s a hack for sure.

That J5 looks very melty.

Residue from another after market mod.

LTG : )