That question could be asked about a lot of things I install on my pins.

I got a tip from CGC support that the topper martian is held in place by three (3) 8-32x3/8 truss head screws and I could remove the martian and put under it some washers to make it straight. I removed the truss head screws, but the martian won't budge... Has anyone removed the martian from the topper, is there some trick to apply here? Or could they have used also glue under the martian at the factory...

I had my topper off and all apart to replace the motor. I don't recall the Martian as being hard to remove.

LTG : )

Yes, looking at the diagram one should be able to lift it off after the three screws have been removed... I wonder if there has been loctite on the screws and it is holding the martian on? I did use also a bit of force, but its not budging anywhere.

Might need a flipper rebuild, coil stop, sleeve, plunger/crank. The plunger might mushroom at the end and hang up.

Gunna pull the buttons apart, i think the first suggestion may now be the only culprit since i put more tension on them the other side is no longer sticking.

Hopefully a simple solution for you. Sticky buttons make it really difficult to play.

Got it, the lighted leds that were clipped off had the ends of the wires touching the machine in a certain spot as they spun. Pulled the silconed leds out of the buttons and now all good. Thanks for the help people, and the inspiration to get at it.

End of year sale from Mickspinball.com

From now until midnight on the 31st., a set of four, LED Big O Jiggly Martians will be discounted $20.00, or $10.00 off for a full set of Big O Jiggly Martins, (no LED’s).

The kit contains everything needed to install and secure.

Optional connectors available, (pictured, and only the AFMr), to allow a bit easier, and complete reversal installation.

If the web site doesn’t automatically make the discount, I will refund it separately for you.

Thank you,

Mickspinball.com

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Are the led eyes on all the time, or do they just come on when the martians are activated ?

All of the time, except for Strobe Multiball, when all of the playfield lights go out..

Ok thanks.

These look awesome in the game - should have come that way IMO! I started with just two for the uppers, but quickly ordered two more to have all four with red beady eyes staring back at me when I play. Makes me want to take out those dirty Martians from another planet even more!
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^^ This convinced me to order 4 with harness^^

PM sent to Mick in regards to shipping options....

Any idea why my start button stops flashing during attract mode after the machine has been on for awhile? I’ve got a MMr right next to it and a bunch of WPC machines, and it’s the only one. Wondering if it’s part of the power save? Trivial problem, or not even a problem, just curious.

Mine does that also,...I too thought it was strange..

Mine does that also,...I too thought it was strange..must be in the design.

Got one coming today or tomorrow!

Anything I should do or look out for. Not my 1st pi n but 1st bally/williams/cgc

Its normal, they all do it.

Just got in a NIB afm se. Setup but the left flipper is not working right. Takes a really hard center push to make it go ans it comes back down if a ball its it hard while up. Help please

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First please try swapping left and right flipper button opto boards. See if problem moves to other flipper, works, or remains screwed up.

LTG : )

I do notice a bit of bounce in my flippers too when making a hard catch. Not that they drop, but they do move.

Does hitting the start button multiple times while in multiball start a new game while in play for anyone else?

Have an AFM LE with slight head damage...anyone have a right side head decal? Guessing could buy the head set from a dist. Also need a small touch up of black on head...anyone ever match the black paint?

Just buy a head decal set from PPS or your distro.

Krylon satin black is a pretty good match.

Spray it on a paper towel and dab it on where needed or spray it on a q-tip and dab small areas.

Rub it down before it dries completely (10 mins?) with a finger or a towel to de-gloss/blend it if its too shiny.

awesome thx

I wrote a while ago about jewel eyes for the martians and how it wasn't worth the effort. After moving AFM directly under a light source it helped a lot (making room for LZ).
So if your game is very near an overhead light might be worth it. Here's a pic, no flash. BTW, the pool table (slate) is available free to a pinsider. PM me if interested in how to do eyes

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How are you liking the Elvira? I am pondering trading My Hobbit for one but since the silly virus has shut down local bars.....I have not been able to try it yet. Reviews look really good though.

I think Elvira is the best integration of good shots and depth I've seen. It will probably be remade in 20 years or so. Just remember you can hit both flippers to skip stuff or it might seem too stop and go. It's pairs well with AFM.

Howdy again martian haters! After about 3 months of ownership a "dirty pool" came up that had something to do with the left ramp and destroyed the martian ship. Anyone know what I did. Also "martian bomb" ,what does that do?
Any other stuff I should know about other than holding left
Flipper when you launch?

Let me know if your interested in selling TH outright as I have been looking for a decent non routed, HUO version.

Dirty Pool occurs when you end up with a ball inside the three bank target after the target bank rises up. Then when you hit the target bank, it rebounds the trapped ball into the the saucer.

If you have a martian bomb, during Martian Attack, hit the launch button and it will award you a martian hit. It's helpful when you hit only three targets and drain your ball. A quick button push will resurrect the ball with another, for the two ball multiball.

Also, during video mode, hit the launch button to clear all saucers if you're about to fail. It will clear the screen when you're in trouble.

Thanks! That's very helpful!

If you get dirty pool and the above confitions are not met:

One of the subway switches near the ourhole drop, are set too close and false triggering. Or bad.

Reminder, Mickspinball end of the year sale for the Big O Jiggly Martians (c), ends at midnight on the 31st.

Also, next year we will be offering a new multi colored LED version, YouTube video link below.

Thanks to all, for supporting my pinball machine add ons....for over 30 years..

Mick

mickspinball.com

On my LE, the mini saucer led's only flash red, not red and green. The game is new to me and I just realized this isn't right.

In the diagnostics test, there is a setting to check the saucer led's (although this might just be for the main saucer). When I checked it during test, none of the pf saucer led's are illuminated or flashing, but the display shows which LED should be flashing on a corresponding screen image.

During gameplay, the main saucer looks good with all colors, while the mini saucers are only showing red.

Anybody familiar with this?

My minis are always red. I have SE

I have a CE and not an LE. So, I may be wrong on this. But, in the CGC menu, under Lighting Menu, there is a setting named MINI-SAUCERS. That can be set to red, green or interactive. If yours is set to red, try changing it to interactive.

Again, not sure exactly how this setting works on LE but it can't hurt to check it.

https://www.chicago-gaming.com/coinop/attack-from-mars

LE only.

Not sure what you are referring to? If you are talking about my post regarding the mini sauce lights, then yes I agree it's only for LE. I personally don't have an LE, but the person who posted the question does. So I was just telling him to check that setting. The LE should have red and green on the mini saucers.

Page 1-13 of the manual. You configure these in the CGC system menu (not the traditional service menu). To enter the System Menu, press and hold the Service Credits button (far left one) for 4 seconds. Then navigate to the LIGHTING MENU where you will find the mini-saucer setting.

Personally, I prefer "INTERACTIVE" which is default.

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Thank you!! That was it.

Installed a saucer with a tiny cow suspended in a tractor beam. Fits perfectly on a bumper cap. Ideal when 7 playfield saucers aren't enough.

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That's awesome.
Where did you find that?

It was on etsy from a guy called UFO king. Currently out of stock, but he'll probably do more.

How does it mount to the pop bumper?

Tina

It's not an official pinball mod. I just thought it matched the AFM theme when I saw it. I used a hot glue gun. Kinda hoaky, but it is pretty strong.. it can be removed without causing damage.

Is there an alternate sound package for this machine? I think i've heard just about every callout a million times this month and wondered if anyone has done something to that effect?

New AFM SE owner here.. first pin for me, and first post Picked up a floor model locally, looks brand new.. menu says less than 300 plays on it (which I don't know if that can be reset and can be trusted, but it sure doesn't look like it's been played much so...)

Curious if there is a trick to getting the backglass art out to access the board; I've unlocked the top (key perpendicular) but when I lift up on the bottom I'm coming up just a millimeter or two short to pull the bottom out over the top of the speaker box. I've wiggled and jiggled but just can't seem to get it.

Also, is there an adjustment for the power of the HS knocker? I've been through the config and didn't see it, not sure if it's called something odd or if it's joined to another setting. If not I might have to get a little piece of rubber or something to shove in there to deaden it a bit, because it's so sharp and loud it actually hurts

Using the right key, hanging inside the coin door on a hook ? Otherwise remove the two theft proof torx screws and slipt the lock and bracket out. Then take out the backglass. And try and figure out the issue with the lock.

No. Unplug it is the only thing.

LTG : )