The dreaded 5 of 6 blue lights...

You can do it. This game definitely makes you earn ruling the universe but I know of no other flat out shot fest with such flow. This game is the best.

Is it normal for the translite to have clear borders around the logo where the lights shine directly through? Usually I would expect a white coating over the back to diffuse the light, but I can see the lights and the board behind. Not a huge deal but I happen to be the exact height to always see it.

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Yes. That way on AFM. The LEDs show it off different.

LTG : )

I have the same issue on my SE. I don’t look at the translite when I play so no big deal. The curse of not being six foot or taller I guess with this machine.

I would pay, at least $100 and maybe more, if I could buy a version without the clear borders. CGC, you listening?

I’ve not paid that much attention to it but I would guess that you could put a sheet of wax paper behind them if it’s really bothering.

I have an idea, but need to flesh it out (your $100 budget is enough to motivate me to get busy on it).

Seriously, if I where to be able to offer a chrome vinyl decal cut to the shape of the clear stroke around the Attack from Mars logo on the translite that you applied to the backside for around $60 including shipping who would be interested?

Question about pinstadiums

Do They use alligator clips or is there an adapter/connector to plug in?

How are they attached to the cabinet? I want these to be fully reversible and don’t want sticky tape to leave marks or pull paint off the inside of the cabinet

Thanks !

As a beer lover, I found the best (and cheapest) topper ever.

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So, after the comments on the blinding LEDs shining through the clear portions of the translite/backglass, my first inclination was to design a chrome decal cut to the shape and width of the clear part of the graphic. However, before going to that effort and expense I decided to try the suggestion of using wax paper by @maffewl. Well, I would say that his solution looks great, is cheap, and can be done in minutes - turns out the simplest solution is quite effective.

Basically, the wax paper turns the appearance of the lights from direct bright clear lens LEDs to more of a soft frosted LED look. It looks great, and removes the occasional blinding you get based upon your viewing angle. I highly recommend doing this! As a note, I actually have a printed backglass. I'm assuming you will achieve the same results with the original translite.

Photo of backglass before applying wax paper backing (actually much more bright/blinding in person than what photo conveys)
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Wax paper I used
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Wax paper cut to shape and taped on using "invisible" cellophane tape
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Photo of backglass after applying wax paper backing (there is no visible difference in the colored areas of the backglass that are covered by the wax paper versus those areas that are not)
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I'm definitely going to try this tonight. Are there any tricks to removing the brackets and lights from the back?

1 - Prep flat work area (floor, table, etc.) with towel, sheet, or some other soft material to protect the glass
2 - Power off pin, unlock backbox at top, lift the lightbox assembly like you would any backglass, then unplug the white connector on the circuit board while holding up the lightbox assembly close to the backbox (i.e. don't forget that it is plugged in with a fairly short wiring harness)
3 - Set lightbox assembly face down on work area and remove the four plastic edge trim pieces (do this carefully in order to not break any of the pieces)
4 - Lift the lightbox off of the translite/glass and set aside
5 - Apply your wax paper making sure it lies flat across area and tape on corners and edges using small pieces of tape (no need to overdo it)
6 - Place lightbox back on top of translite/glass, reapply trim plastic, and check that everything is aligned correctly
7 - Hold lightbox assembly at backbox and plug connector back into circuit board
8 - Seat lightbox assembly, lock backbox, and power on pin
9 - Start a game, and kill some Martians from another planet!

This waxpaper trick works surprisingly well. Thanks to maffewl and @mr_tantrum!

I have a translite, so I can confirm it works for that version. You can't see the edges of the waxpaper at all.

I do still see some hot spots, but the blinding view of the LEDs is gone. Once it gets dark outside, I'll be interested to see how well it works in a dark room.

Thanks!

I'm curious of maybe 2 layers of wax paper would deliver better results for you without any distortion to the graphics.

After giving it some time, I'm very happy with the 1 layer of wax paper, and I don't think I need to try 2 layers.

Thanks...works fantastic! Easiest 5 minute mod I've done in a long time.

By far the cheapest mod I’ve done to any of my pins!

Bumping this hoping someone can help, thanks

Just go to their website and look at the install instructions.

The electronics connections are fully reversible. The only potential issue is that you stick the mag strips along the tops of the sides, so if you have art blades you may not be able to remove the adhesive backed mags without damaging the side blades.

Got my custom painted saucers from back alley
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I like them!

Would you recommend the backboard illumination kit from Mezel? I don’t want it to flash or do anything other than light up with the GI. I saw a poster a while back had an issue with it Always reseting to flash mode.

Personally, no. But if you want to DIY your own it's fairly simple with Comet Matrix parts and a GI wire harness (I make them, and I believe you might still be able to buy them from Mezel). Would cost a few dollars less and you can choose your own light color(s), but you might find it easier just to buy the kit.

This one?

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/lighting-strips?variant=30701513998438

that won't work on the remake because there are no light sockets to hook into. You have to use IDC type connectors and plug into one of the boards. We offer a full kit that includes two separate backboard lights and a trough light. You pick the colors (including a UV option to highlight the UV paint effects on the playfield). I recommend purple and green for the back board and white for the trough, which is what I put on my game. These will turn off during strobe mb and interact with the GI lighting.

https://lermods.com/shop/ols/products/attack-from-mars-remake-pinball-led-strip-backboard-and-trough-light-combo-kit

I'll PM you and show you everything you need for a DIY kit that will cost around $35, if for whatever reason you don't want to buy a kit.

Didn’t u sell this?

Decided to keep it

Get the Planetray Pinball mirror blades! They fit absolutely perfect. Glad I returned the others from Cointaker. Picked up 3/8” flat head #4 screws and spent about an hour on something that should have taken me 15 minutes but that’s the cost of my OCD.

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Did they not come with screws?

I don't like mirror blades on every game, but they are perfect for AFMr (I have the LE, so it came with them).

They did not. Probably my only complaint.

Green mini saucer domes, wadaya think?

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Video

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I think I like them. I also might like 2 red and 2 green.

Oops, just realized there are 5 of them.

Bingo! Two red 4 green is the way to go, looks amazing

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Wow just turned up the flipper strength back to default now that the game has settled in and it’s great. It’s not quite as fast as fresh out of the box so the ball isn’t flying off the center ramp anymore. Love it

I believe it uses wire taps to go into the backside of a few moles connectors (a pair for GI, the other for flasher).

Maybe time to wax the playfield.

If any of my games get slower, its a good indication thay they need wax.

I wax and change or polish the balls every 350 to 450 games.

Or I can just play it with default flipper strength lol. Like I said, out of the box the ball was flying off the ramp.

Saucer will look good in UV paint under pinstadiums!

Left the AFMLE club today, and my football team lost in the finals... sad sad day.

I’m sorry for your loss.

I tried the UV trough light and glow in the dark Titans. Looks pretty cool and they glow nicely during strobe multi ball when the light are very low. I like the way the UV light makes the phosphorescent paint pop.

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I was disappointed in my Comet UV trough light—it wasn’t strong enough to make anything pop on my machine.

Joined this club today AFMRSE is now here!

Congrats!