New! Dark mode!

Browsing Pinside at night? Getting tired of all the white? Switch to dark mode using the button in the top right (or CTRL-B)!

(Topic ID: 192072)

Attack From Mars Remake (AFMr) Owners Club


By Pin_Guy

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 9,052 posts
  • 568 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 35 minutes ago by Mr_Tantrum
  • Topic is favorited by 275 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 1,758 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

PXL_20201027_132729374 (resized).jpg
PXL_20201026_201854444 (resized).jpg
122750800_10218637938649411_1873479329332884138_n (resized).jpg
122763901_10218637938529408_4753965937610816529_n (resized).jpg
6E24C74F-EAFB-4E37-B34A-744162D449D3 (resized).jpeg
D8F6E44B-E607-485F-B89C-19B396654F38 (resized).jpeg
IMG_3256 (resized).jpeg
IMG_3257 (resized).jpeg
IMG_3252 (resized).jpeg
IMG_3250 (resized).jpeg
IMG_3248 (resized).jpeg
01 AFM-Sideblade-SLR-5-low-res (resized).JPG
01 AFM-Sideblade-SLR-3-low-res (resized).JPG
01 AFM-SideBlade-Right-5-low-res (resized).jpg
01 AFM-SideBlade-Right-4-low-res (resized).jpg
01 AFM-Sideblade-Left-3-low-res (resized).jpg

Topic index (key posts)

26 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 9052 posts in this topic. You are on page 179 of 182.
#8901 34 days ago
Quoted from Mahoneyj:

I was so close. This game really makes you focus on ball control and making shots. Had it for a few days and am loving it. It’s been a long time since I played it on location. Missed this machine.
I am sure my next 10 games will be outlane drain fests.
[quoted image]

The dreaded 5 of 6 blue lights...

You can do it. This game definitely makes you earn ruling the universe but I know of no other flat out shot fest with such flow. This game is the best.

#8902 34 days ago

Is it normal for the translite to have clear borders around the logo where the lights shine directly through? Usually I would expect a white coating over the back to diffuse the light, but I can see the lights and the board behind. Not a huge deal but I happen to be the exact height to always see it.

B0C61BCA-5D96-48D8-8CE4-3B1EE30017CE (resized).jpeg
#8903 34 days ago
Quoted from bbulkley:

Is it normal for the translite to have clear borders around the logo where the lights shine directly through?

Yes. That way on AFM. The LEDs show it off different.

LTG : )

#8904 34 days ago

It’s faux mirror.

#8905 34 days ago
Quoted from bbulkley:

Is it normal for the translite to have clear borders around the logo where the lights shine directly through? Usually I would expect a white coating over the back to diffuse the light, but I can see the lights and the board behind. Not a huge deal but I happen to be the exact height to always see it.
[quoted image]

I have the same issue on my SE. I don’t look at the translite when I play so no big deal. The curse of not being six foot or taller I guess with this machine.

#8906 33 days ago
Quoted from bbulkley:

Is it normal for the translite to have clear borders around the logo where the lights shine directly through?

I think this was mentioned in post #1 in this forum

#8907 33 days ago

I would pay, at least $100 and maybe more, if I could buy a version without the clear borders. CGC, you listening?

#8908 33 days ago
Quoted from jrh7:

I would pay, at least $100 and maybe more, if I could buy a version without the clear borders. CGC, you listening?

I’ve not paid that much attention to it but I would guess that you could put a sheet of wax paper behind them if it’s really bothering.

#8909 33 days ago
Quoted from jrh7:

I would pay, at least $100 and maybe more, if I could buy a version without the clear borders. CGC, you listening?

I have an idea, but need to flesh it out (your $100 budget is enough to motivate me to get busy on it).

Seriously, if I where to be able to offer a chrome vinyl decal cut to the shape of the clear stroke around the Attack from Mars logo on the translite that you applied to the backside for around $60 including shipping who would be interested?

#8910 31 days ago

Question about pinstadiums

Do They use alligator clips or is there an adapter/connector to plug in?

How are they attached to the cabinet? I want these to be fully reversible and don’t want sticky tape to leave marks or pull paint off the inside of the cabinet

Thanks !

#8911 31 days ago

As a beer lover, I found the best (and cheapest) topper ever.

61109881-85C8-4943-AA16-B70B29611300 (resized).jpegBE1D5AFC-32A3-4BF8-99CC-5673A945E94E (resized).jpegE8DD7F81-F393-487B-9395-D80C7C52D303 (resized).jpeg
#8913 29 days ago

So, after the comments on the blinding LEDs shining through the clear portions of the translite/backglass, my first inclination was to design a chrome decal cut to the shape and width of the clear part of the graphic. However, before going to that effort and expense I decided to try the suggestion of using wax paper by maffewl. Well, I would say that his solution looks great, is cheap, and can be done in minutes - turns out the simplest solution is quite effective.

Basically, the wax paper turns the appearance of the lights from direct bright clear lens LEDs to more of a soft frosted LED look. It looks great, and removes the occasional blinding you get based upon your viewing angle. I highly recommend doing this! As a note, I actually have a printed backglass. I'm assuming you will achieve the same results with the original translite.

Photo of backglass before applying wax paper backing (actually much more bright/blinding in person than what photo conveys)
IMG_4543.JPG

Wax paper I used
IMG_4545.JPG

Wax paper cut to shape and taped on using "invisible" cellophane tape
IMG_4546.JPG

Photo of backglass after applying wax paper backing (there is no visible difference in the colored areas of the backglass that are covered by the wax paper versus those areas that are not)
IMG_4548.JPG

#8914 29 days ago

I'm definitely going to try this tonight. Are there any tricks to removing the brackets and lights from the back?

#8915 29 days ago

1 - Prep flat work area (floor, table, etc.) with towel, sheet, or some other soft material to protect the glass
2 - Power off pin, unlock backbox at top, lift the lightbox assembly like you would any backglass, then unplug the white connector on the circuit board while holding up the lightbox assembly close to the backbox (i.e. don't forget that it is plugged in with a fairly short wiring harness)
3 - Set lightbox assembly face down on work area and remove the four plastic edge trim pieces (do this carefully in order to not break any of the pieces)
4 - Lift the lightbox off of the translite/glass and set aside
5 - Apply your wax paper making sure it lies flat across area and tape on corners and edges using small pieces of tape (no need to overdo it)
6 - Place lightbox back on top of translite/glass, reapply trim plastic, and check that everything is aligned correctly
7 - Hold lightbox assembly at backbox and plug connector back into circuit board
8 - Seat lightbox assembly, lock backbox, and power on pin
9 - Start a game, and kill some Martians from another planet!

#8916 29 days ago

This waxpaper trick works surprisingly well. Thanks to maffewl and mr_tantrum!

I have a translite, so I can confirm it works for that version. You can't see the edges of the waxpaper at all.

I do still see some hot spots, but the blinding view of the LEDs is gone. Once it gets dark outside, I'll be interested to see how well it works in a dark room.

Thanks!

#8917 29 days ago
Quoted from jrh7:

This waxpaper trick works surprisingly well. Thanks to maffewl and mr_tantrum!
I have a translite, so I can confirm it works for that version. You can't see the edges of the waxpaper at all.
I do still see some hot spots, but the blinding view of the LEDs is gone. Once it gets dark outside, I'll be interested to see how well it works in a dark room.
Thanks!

I'm curious of maybe 2 layers of wax paper would deliver better results for you without any distortion to the graphics.

#8918 29 days ago

After giving it some time, I'm very happy with the 1 layer of wax paper, and I don't think I need to try 2 layers.

#8919 29 days ago

Tried this on my TH. The glass art is normally washed out and needs a filter. The wax paper made an incremental improvement.
Kinda like the AFM led visibility, to me it catches the eye like a light being reflected off a mirror back glass.

#8920 29 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

1 - Prep flat work area (floor, table, etc.) with towel, sheet, or some other soft material to protect the glass
2 - Power off pin, unlock backbox at top, lift the lightbox assembly like you would any backglass, then unplug the white connector on the circuit board while holding up the lightbox assembly close to the backbox (i.e. don't forget that it is plugged in with a fairly short wiring harness)
3 - Set lightbox assembly face down on work area and remove the four plastic edge trim pieces (do this carefully in order to not break any of the pieces)
4 - Lift the lightbox off of the translite/glass and set aside
5 - Apply your wax paper making sure it lies flat across area and tape on corners and edges using small pieces of tape (no need to overdo it)
6 - Place lightbox back on top of translite/glass, reapply trim plastic, and check that everything is aligned correctly
7 - Hold lightbox assembly at backbox and plug connector back into circuit board
8 - Seat lightbox assembly, lock backbox, and power on pin
9 - Start a game, and kill some Martians from another planet!

Thanks...works fantastic! Easiest 5 minute mod I've done in a long time.

#8921 29 days ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Thanks...works fantastic! Easiest 5 minute mod I've done in a long time.

By far the cheapest mod I’ve done to any of my pins!

#8922 29 days ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

Question about pinstadiums
Do They use alligator clips or is there an adapter/connector to plug in?
How are they attached to the cabinet? I want these to be fully reversible and don’t want sticky tape to leave marks or pull paint off the inside of the cabinet
Thanks !

Bumping this hoping someone can help, thanks

#8923 29 days ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

Bumping this hoping someone can help, thanks

Just go to their website and look at the install instructions.

The electronics connections are fully reversible. The only potential issue is that you stick the mag strips along the tops of the sides, so if you have art blades you may not be able to remove the adhesive backed mags without damaging the side blades.

10
#8924 28 days ago

Got my custom painted saucers from back alley
581BDF51-1B6F-440A-B1E1-E1283A404ECC (resized).jpeg

#8925 28 days ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

Got my custom painted saucers from back alley
[quoted image]

I like them!

#8926 28 days ago

Would you recommend the backboard illumination kit from Mezel? I don’t want it to flash or do anything other than light up with the GI. I saw a poster a while back had an issue with it Always reseting to flash mode.

#8927 28 days ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

Would you recommend the backboard illumination kit from Mezel? I don’t want it to flash or do anything other than light up with the GI. I saw a poster a while back had an issue with it Always reseting to flash mode.

Personally, no. But if you want to DIY your own it's fairly simple with Comet Matrix parts and a GI wire harness (I make them, and I believe you might still be able to buy them from Mezel). Would cost a few dollars less and you can choose your own light color(s), but you might find it easier just to buy the kit.

#8928 28 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Personally, no. But if you want to DIY your own it's fairly simple with Comet Matrix parts and a GI wire harness (I make them, and I believe you might still be able to buy them from Mezel). Would cost a few dollars less and you can choose your own light color(s), but you might find it easier just to buy the kit.

This one?

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/lighting-strips?variant=30701513998438

#8929 28 days ago

that won't work on the remake because there are no light sockets to hook into. You have to use IDC type connectors and plug into one of the boards. We offer a full kit that includes two separate backboard lights and a trough light. You pick the colors (including a UV option to highlight the UV paint effects on the playfield). I recommend purple and green for the back board and white for the trough, which is what I put on my game. These will turn off during strobe mb and interact with the GI lighting.

https://lermods.com/shop/ols/products/attack-from-mars-remake-pinball-led-strip-backboard-and-trough-light-combo-kit

#8930 28 days ago

I'll PM you and show you everything you need for a DIY kit that will cost around $35, if for whatever reason you don't want to buy a kit.

#8931 28 days ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

Would you recommend the backboard illumination kit from Mezel? I don’t want it to flash or do anything other than light up with the GI. I saw a poster a while back had an issue with it Always reseting to flash mode.

Didn’t u sell this?

#8932 28 days ago
Quoted from Multiballmaniac1:

Didn’t u sell this?

Decided to keep it

#8933 27 days ago

Get the Planetray Pinball mirror blades! They fit absolutely perfect. Glad I returned the others from Cointaker. Picked up 3/8” flat head #4 screws and spent about an hour on something that should have taken me 15 minutes but that’s the cost of my OCD.

JPEG image (resized).jpeg
#8934 27 days ago

Did they not come with screws?

#8935 27 days ago
Quoted from hawkfanz:

Get the Planetray Pinball mirror blades! They fit absolutely perfect. Glad I returned the others from Cointaker. Picked up 3/8” flat head #4 screws and spent about an hour on something that should have taken me 15 minutes but that’s the cost of my OCD.
[quoted image]

I don't like mirror blades on every game, but they are perfect for AFMr (I have the LE, so it came with them).

#8936 27 days ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

Did they not come with screws?

They did not. Probably my only complaint.

#8937 26 days ago

Green mini saucer domes, wadaya think?

D9617328-BD5E-4A7A-ABB3-A9C22C3B37DC (resized).jpeg

Video

EF7DFF70-D8C7-4C56-AA8C-F1B335821FA1 (resized).jpeg
#8938 26 days ago

I think I like them. I also might like 2 red and 2 green.

Oops, just realized there are 5 of them.

#8939 26 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I think I like them. I also might like 2 red and 2 green.

Bingo! Two red 4 green is the way to go, looks amazing

5EE01314-015C-43B9-9B45-C93233BC280A (resized).jpeg
#8940 26 days ago

Wow just turned up the flipper strength back to default now that the game has settled in and it’s great. It’s not quite as fast as fresh out of the box so the ball isn’t flying off the center ramp anymore. Love it

#8941 26 days ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

Question about pinstadiums
Do They use alligator clips or is there an adapter/connector to plug in?
How are they attached to the cabinet? I want these to be fully reversible and don’t want sticky tape to leave marks or pull paint off the inside of the cabinet
Thanks !

I believe it uses wire taps to go into the backside of a few moles connectors (a pair for GI, the other for flasher).

#8942 25 days ago
Quoted from nicoy3k:

Wow just turned up the flipper strength back to default now that the game has settled in and it’s great. It’s not quite as fast as fresh out of the box so the ball isn’t flying off the center ramp anymore. Love it

Maybe time to wax the playfield.

If any of my games get slower, its a good indication thay they need wax.

I wax and change or polish the balls every 350 to 450 games.

#8943 25 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Maybe time to wax the playfield.
If any of my games get slower, its a good indication thay they need wax.
I wax and change or polish the balls every 350 to 450 games.

Or I can just play it with default flipper strength lol. Like I said, out of the box the ball was flying off the ramp.

#8944 25 days ago

Saucer will look good in UV paint under pinstadiums!

#8945 25 days ago

Left the AFMLE club today, and my football team lost in the finals... sad sad day.

#8946 25 days ago
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

Left the AFMLE club today, and my football team lost in the finals... sad sad day.

I’m sorry for your loss.

#8947 24 days ago

I tried the UV trough light and glow in the dark Titans. Looks pretty cool and they glow nicely during strobe multi ball when the light are very low. I like the way the UV light makes the phosphorescent paint pop.

DD650581-A02F-411C-93D7-72A1A0748BB9 (resized).jpeg
#8948 23 days ago
Quoted from Mahoneyj:

I tried the UV trough light and glow in the dark Titans. Looks pretty cool and they glow nicely during strobe multi ball when the light are very low. I like the way the UV light makes the phosphorescent paint pop.
[quoted image]

I was disappointed in my Comet UV trough light—it wasn’t strong enough to make anything pop on my machine.

#8949 22 days ago

Joined this club today AFMRSE is now here!

#8950 22 days ago
Quoted from PKingRoch:

Joined this club today AFMRSE is now here!

Congrats!

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
From: $ 6,000.00
Pinball Machine
Pinball Pro
From: $ 5.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
From: $ 0.80
Playfield - Other
Rocket City Pinball
$ 499.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
There are 9052 posts in this topic. You are on page 179 of 182.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside