Went to play the game and both flippers were under powered.
It seems both flippers went down in power by almost half.

What happened?
Safe to raise the coil strength?

Power cycled the game and flippers back to normal power?
Has this happened to anyone else?

Hi mates!

I am studying whether I should join the AFMR club, since I have the possibility of buying an LE.

I read there is a lot of issues with the playfields and other problems.

The machine that maybe I will buy is number 65 of 1000... I understand that it's an early edition, so does that represent any added problem?

I’m not aware of any playfield issues (other than the nude paint which, ok whatever). Clear coat issues with JJP and Stern, yes. Not CGC.

The only issue that I think is common is the glass rattling which can be solved many ways.

I would have zero hesitation about buying an AFMr, or any other CGC game.

You must be reading the same posts over and over for playfield issues. Only issue as mentioned in last post was some playfields went out without the orange layer - nude. Check to make sure yours is not one of them. Clear is really good on these. Yes you will get dimples but that seems to be on all new playfields regardless of manufacturer. All other issues are minor if you have them at all. I have both afmr and mbr and on order mmr. By far CGC is the best right now. Good luck!

Joined the club - drove over 8 hour round trip for this. So far all I can say is WOW.. can’t wait to spend some time on it, what a color show and the topper is out of this world.. I’ll have to read these posts only thing I noticed is glass rattle from the bass of this monster. Under 200 plays. AFMr LE #793
Custom cover shown below is on the way

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Actually very few issues, to say "a lot" is incorrect.

All have been sorted out by GCG years ago.

Correct, the game number of, whatever/1000 has nothing to do with the production number or whether is early or late in the run.

No issues with playfield as far as I know, they did send me new plastics though.

looks awesome, love all the green and the topper.

Bad ass.

Anti rattle tape solved the issue for me permanently

Electric tape down the edges here.

Started game - went into menu and changed flippers from -20 to - 24 and aliens from light to medium.

Started game, pushed left flipper and both flippers went up, paused then went back down, now o have no response. - I hit launch ball - no coils fire, launch button turns off and return to battle illuminates.

15 or so seconds later shield starts to go up and down - then I can hear orbit gates open/close... repeat.

Only thing I have done was a restart - same result.

Next steps are?

Thx in advance

Does your game have the 2.0 PIC on the driver board in the back box ? If not, you shouldn't change coil settings until you get it in there.

Either way, check fuses on driver board.

Please open a ticket on the Support - Help Desk : https://www.chicago-gaming.com/

LTG : )

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Yes it does, checked that yesterday before I switched flipper power - checked driver board and blown F108.

Registered and put in a ticket number as requested, I’ll wait to replace fuse and turn back on until I hear response.

Thx

Good. Then pull and check fuses with a meter next.

LTG : )

What is current code ?

It’s the 2.0 chip. All fuses are good except F108- do i need to turn game on and run voltage or just that they have continuity?

Please replace F108 it is a 20mm 6.3 amp time delay or slow blow fuse.

That may fix it. If it blows right away please add that to your ticket.

LTG : )

The 2.0 PIC is an integrated circuit. nothing to do with code. And by now all games either had it replaced or came with it.

To see current code, go into the CGC menu on your game ( page 1-10 in the manual ) the first screen has your version of software on it. That is current.

LTG : )

Thank you guys for the explanations and information, much clear for me now. Deal done, so in the next days hopefully I will join the club with my AFMr LE!

Joined the club today! So happy, looks badass!

Today I only had time to plug it and make a quick game. There is a couple of things that I would like to ask:

- I noticed the music and effects don't sound "bright" or "clear". I tried balancing the subwoofer/speaker in the CGC menu but still not very happy. Is there any other place where I can adjust treble, bass or something like that?

- A lot of rattling... So I removed the glass, and the rattling continues but still very noticeable, even if I set the subwoofer down enough. The pin have sidemirrors too, IDK if they are rattling too. I have to investigate this, I will look for some solutions already discussed in this thread.

- The strength of the flippers seems very strong to me, the ball is fast as hell. How do you set the flipper's strength in your pin?

- I have some crazed plastics. Anybody knows if I can contact CGC for that, even if I'm the second owner?

Thanks for helping the newbie with his new toy!

From my understanding, speakers today are more “crisp” than those from decades ago. The sound files are the same. It’s like trying to play a Nintendo game on a HDTV. They need that “lack of definition” blur from CRT TVs. These sound files are similar on new audio hardware.

Rattling is the plastic slots that hold the glass. Put electric tape down the edges of your glass and it will go away. This will apply more pressure to the plastic when glass is reinstalled.

To reduce flipper strength and other options, hold the far left coin door button down to get to system adjustments.

Plastics unlikely for second owner, but CGC has amazing customer service so no harm in reaching out.

I also have this rattling and it's not the glass on mine. It's the rails not glued to the cabinet like the original B/W games. It stops if I press again the side of the rail during a game. I have yet to fix mine but a continuous piece of double sided foam tape should work.

See if sliding some thin pieces of cardboard temporarily between the cab and rail make it stop.

I raised the playfield to see if is there anything that can vibrate, and I found that my subwoofer cone was bend in, like if someone pressed it.

I fixed it by pulling out with some tape and tried how the pin plays, but still A LOT of rattling.

Maybe my subwoofer is broken?

Can I just disconnect it?

Anti rattle tape on the playfield glass.

Same for the backglass if its loose.

I just got my first pin - AFMR. I got it set up, but I'm having a problem with the backbox. I can't get the glass to come out. I unlock the box and go to slide the glass up, but it won't go high enough to get past the display. It seems really stupid, but I can't figure out how to get it up and out. Any thoughts???

Is the display far enough down into the cabinet ? Plastic channels on the sides slid up and preventing the back glass from going up far enough ?

LTG : )

Also, make sure that you have unlocked it and that you rotated the lock all the way so that it's fully out of the way.

Just to be sure. Are you using the coin door key ? Or the lone key hanging inside the coin door by the coin chute ?

LTG : )

My AFMR was like this, but I was able to squeeze the bottom of the back glass out when needed, but it was real snug. It didn’t just clear the speaker panel when lifted like all my other machines. This was with the speaker panel fully seated in its groove. I never thought to troubleshoot it since I could get it out when needed, and I no longer have the machine. Just wanted to let you know you’re not alone.

Finally found it!

A speaker cable was disconnected, so I had no sound on the backbox speakers, I only had sound from the subwoofer... that's why everything was vibrating and sounded like shit.

Now sounds great and no rattling
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Thanks everyone. I finally got up there nerve to just muscle it out, and that's all it took. I'm not sure why it's so tight, but hopefully I won't have to get back into it any time soon.

Super jealous of people who own this pin. I was able to play an LE again recently and it's like happiness in a box. It's so stunning to look at and so much fun to play. One day it will be mine. It's pinball perfection.

Been feeling like my coin door needed something, so I created this decal that covers the bill taker plate. If anyone is interested in buying one, I'll sell them for $10 ($12 international) which includes postage. Just PM me to purchase.

Decal is printed on adhesive vindy with photo quality printer then clear gloss vinyl is overlaid on top, decal is cut and corners rounded, then perimeter edges are colored black.

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Newbie question here. I just got a "new" AFMR CE that was a distributer's floor model. So I'm the first owner, but it's not really new. My problem is that the pop bumpers don't seem right. They hardly ever fire off. Once in a while they will activate, but usually the ball hits them and rolls away with out them activating. When I run a selenoid test, they both work. When I run a switch test, they both show up as "closed". Shouldn't they default to "open" during the test? Would "closed" mean that the leaves are touching at rest? If so, then why do they not show up as errors? And also, there are 3 pop bumpers on the game. Why are there only "left" and "right" in the test menus?

Thanks guys.

The leaf blade below them should be open.

There is one more besides left and right. I don't have a game powered up to check. Go through coil tests, it's in there.

Adjust the leaf blade switch for it below the playfield.

Turn the game off. Lift playfield up and lean back. See the leaf blade switch ? The long one with the plastic spoon is pushed by a plastic rod coming down from the pop bumper skirt. This plastic spoon should be clean, ( not worn on older games ) well centered on the rod, just resting on it, not pushing it up. The shorter lower leaf blade switch should be close enough so the slightest ball hit triggers it yet vibration doesn't set it off. A little adjusting/tweaking, and you'll be fine.

LTG : )

It's called Bottom Jet.

LTG : )

Flipper alignment question. I stuck a toothpick in the holes and aligned the flippers so the bottom of the rubber is just touching the toothpick when straight up. Is this correct or is it done without the rubber on the flipper?

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Usually, you should put the toothpick inside the rubber not outside of it. However, setup will vary by individual.

I do it the same way you did it, but I always check to make sure the top of my flipper is in a straight line with the guide that feeds the flipper. I will typically use a straight edge of some sort to check it.

Correctly aligned the flipper bats should have a slight droop to them.

They are not supposed to be in-line with the guides, unless you wish to modify their angle.

Simply press a toothpick between the rubber and the bat, then press the toothpick into the hole in the playfield.

Just as I was stating. Here is the result when you do it that way.

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Toothpick between rubber and flipper - top or bottom of flipper?

Bottom.

LTG : )