(Topic ID: 192072)

Attack From Mars Remake (AFMr) Owners Club


By Pin_Guy

2 years ago



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  • 533 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 days ago by yuriijos
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There are 8557 posts in this topic. You are on page 171 of 172.
#8501 23 days ago

Went to play the game and both flippers were under powered.
It seems both flippers went down in power by almost half.

What happened?
Safe to raise the coil strength?

Power cycled the game and flippers back to normal power?
Has this happened to anyone else?

#8502 20 days ago

Hi mates!

I am studying whether I should join the AFMR club, since I have the possibility of buying an LE.

I read there is a lot of issues with the playfields and other problems.

The machine that maybe I will buy is number 65 of 1000... I understand that it's an early edition, so does that represent any added problem?

#8503 20 days ago
Quoted from sonambulo:

Hi mates!
I am studying whether I should join the AFMR club, since I have the possibility of buying an LE.
I read there is a lot of issues with the playfields and other problems.
The machine that maybe I will buy is number 65 of 1000... I understand that it's an early edition, so does that represent any added problem?

I’m not aware of any playfield issues (other than the nude paint which, ok whatever). Clear coat issues with JJP and Stern, yes. Not CGC.

The only issue that I think is common is the glass rattling which can be solved many ways.

I would have zero hesitation about buying an AFMr, or any other CGC game.

#8504 20 days ago

You must be reading the same posts over and over for playfield issues. Only issue as mentioned in last post was some playfields went out without the orange layer - nude. Check to make sure yours is not one of them. Clear is really good on these. Yes you will get dimples but that seems to be on all new playfields regardless of manufacturer. All other issues are minor if you have them at all. I have both afmr and mbr and on order mmr. By far CGC is the best right now. Good luck!

11
#8505 19 days ago

Joined the club - drove over 8 hour round trip for this. So far all I can say is WOW.. can’t wait to spend some time on it, what a color show and the topper is out of this world.. I’ll have to read these posts only thing I noticed is glass rattle from the bass of this monster. Under 200 plays. AFMr LE #793
Custom cover shown below is on the way

72D34C0F-AE2F-4E18-A4F1-AF46E888FBC1 (resized).jpeg8AB2926C-7A00-459B-B22C-3B1E0FB5A81F.png020F260B-079E-417B-A5BF-2E272AF0A795.jpeg337E3514-95E4-4766-B9B5-FDD3D5CDA4C5.jpeg
#8506 19 days ago
Quoted from sonambulo:

The machine that maybe I will buy is number 65 of 1000... I understand that it's an early edition, so does that represent any added problem?

I'm not sure, but its possible you may be confusing early MMr runs with early AFM runs. For MMr the very early runs (LE's) had fantastic playfields, then later machines starting around >200 had playfield insert issues that washed out the writing on inserts.

Early AFM machines has issues with cracking paint on the playfield plastics which was quickly addressed by CGC and to my knowledge they shipped out a new set of plastics to everyone that had this issue.

Now here's the kicker about AFM LE serial numbers ... anyone that had purchased a MMr LE could reserve a matching AFM LE serial number ... regardless of when the machine was actually built.

The second kicker is that unlike MMr, AFMr LEs weren't the first built/shipped as there was a supply breakdown in the topper parts that resulted in the SE'd shipping first. I may actually have had one of the first commercial AFMr's built and delivered as my machine was purchased from one of the largest distributors in the country and drop shipped from CGC (Chicago,IL) to me (Des Moines, IA) and nearly everything between Chicago and Des Moines is an overnight shipment.

#8507 19 days ago
Quoted from sonambulo:

Hi mates!
I am studying whether I should join the AFMR club, since I have the possibility of buying an LE.
I read there is a lot of issues with the playfields and other problems.
The machine that maybe I will buy is number 65 of 1000... I understand that it's an early edition, so does that represent any added problem?

Actually very few issues, to say "a lot" is incorrect.

All have been sorted out by GCG years ago.

#8508 19 days ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Now here's the kicker about AFM LE serial numbers ... anyone that had purchased a MMr LE could reserve a matching AFM LE serial number ... regardless of when the machine was actually built.

Correct, the game number of, whatever/1000 has nothing to do with the production number or whether is early or late in the run.

#8509 19 days ago

No issues with playfield as far as I know, they did send me new plastics though.

#8510 19 days ago
Quoted from PunishersLEMC:

Joined the club - drove over 8 hour round trip for this. So far all I can say is WOW.. can’t wait to spend some time on it, what a color show and the topper is out of this world.. I’ll have to read these posts only thing I noticed is glass rattle from the bass of this monster. Under 200 plays. AFMr LE #793
Custom cover shown below is on the way
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

looks awesome, love all the green and the topper.

#8511 19 days ago
Quoted from PunishersLEMC:

Joined the club - drove over 8 hour round trip for this. So far all I can say is WOW.. can’t wait to spend some time on it, what a color show and the topper is out of this world.. I’ll have to read these posts only thing I noticed is glass rattle from the bass of this monster. Under 200 plays. AFMr LE #793
Custom cover shown below is on the way
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Bad ass.

#8512 19 days ago
Quoted from PunishersLEMC:

I’ll have to read these posts only thing I noticed is glass rattle from the bass of this monster.

This thread does contain a couple of different ways to address this issue. I got lucky and only had to adjust the lockdown bar tension to eliminate it, others had to be more creative.

#8513 19 days ago

Anti rattle tape solved the issue for me permanently

#8514 19 days ago

Electric tape down the edges here.

#8515 19 days ago

Started game - went into menu and changed flippers from -20 to - 24 and aliens from light to medium.

Started game, pushed left flipper and both flippers went up, paused then went back down, now o have no response. - I hit launch ball - no coils fire, launch button turns off and return to battle illuminates.

15 or so seconds later shield starts to go up and down - then I can hear orbit gates open/close... repeat.

Only thing I have done was a restart - same result.

Next steps are?

Thx in advance

#8516 19 days ago
Quoted from mjs2:

Next steps are?

Does your game have the 2.0 PIC on the driver board in the back box ? If not, you shouldn't change coil settings until you get it in there.

Either way, check fuses on driver board.

Please open a ticket on the Support - Help Desk : https://www.chicago-gaming.com/

LTG : )

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#8517 19 days ago

Yes it does, checked that yesterday before I switched flipper power - checked driver board and blown F108.

Registered and put in a ticket number as requested, I’ll wait to replace fuse and turn back on until I hear response.

Thx

#8518 19 days ago
Quoted from mjs2:

Yes it does, checked that yesterday before I switched flipper power.

Good. Then pull and check fuses with a meter next.

LTG : )

#8519 19 days ago

What is current code ?

#8520 19 days ago

It’s the 2.0 chip. All fuses are good except F108- do i need to turn game on and run voltage or just that they have continuity?

#8521 19 days ago
Quoted from mjs2:

It’s the 2.0 chip. All fuses are good except F108- do i need to turn game on and run voltage or just that they have continuity?

Please replace F108 it is a 20mm 6.3 amp time delay or slow blow fuse.

That may fix it. If it blows right away please add that to your ticket.

LTG : )

#8522 19 days ago
Quoted from golfingdad1:

What is current code ?

The 2.0 PIC is an integrated circuit. nothing to do with code. And by now all games either had it replaced or came with it.

To see current code, go into the CGC menu on your game ( page 1-10 in the manual ) the first screen has your version of software on it. That is current.

LTG : )

#8523 17 days ago
Quoted from sonambulo:

Hi mates!
I am studying whether I should join the AFMR club, since I have the possibility of buying an LE.
I read there is a lot of issues with the playfields and other problems.
The machine that maybe I will buy is number 65 of 1000... I understand that it's an early edition, so does that represent any added problem?

Thank you guys for the explanations and information, much clear for me now. Deal done, so in the next days hopefully I will join the club with my AFMr LE!

#8524 13 days ago
Quoted from sonambulo:

Thank you guys for the explanations and information, much clear for me now. Deal done, so in the next days hopefully I will join the club with my AFMr LE!

Joined the club today! So happy, looks badass!

Today I only had time to plug it and make a quick game. There is a couple of things that I would like to ask:

- I noticed the music and effects don't sound "bright" or "clear". I tried balancing the subwoofer/speaker in the CGC menu but still not very happy. Is there any other place where I can adjust treble, bass or something like that?

- A lot of rattling... So I removed the glass, and the rattling continues but still very noticeable, even if I set the subwoofer down enough. The pin have sidemirrors too, IDK if they are rattling too. I have to investigate this, I will look for some solutions already discussed in this thread.

- The strength of the flippers seems very strong to me, the ball is fast as hell. How do you set the flipper's strength in your pin?

- I have some crazed plastics. Anybody knows if I can contact CGC for that, even if I'm the second owner?

Thanks for helping the newbie with his new toy!

#8525 13 days ago
Quoted from sonambulo:

Joined the club today! So happy, looks badass!
Today I only had time to plug it and make a quick game. There is a couple of things that I would like to ask:
- I noticed the music and effects don't sound "bright" or "clear". I tried balancing the subwoofer/speaker in the CGC menu but still not very happy. Is there any other place where I can adjust treble, bass or something like that?
- A lot of rattling... So I removed the glass, and the rattling continues but still very noticeable, even if I set the subwoofer down enough. The pin have sidemirrors too, IDK if they are rattling too. I have to investigate this, I will look for some solutions already discussed in this thread.
- The strength of the flippers seems very strong to me, the ball is fast as hell. How do you set the flipper's strength in your pin?
- I have some crazed plastics. Anybody knows if I can contact CGC for that, even if I'm the second owner?
Thanks for helping the newbie with his new toy!

From my understanding, speakers today are more “crisp” than those from decades ago. The sound files are the same. It’s like trying to play a Nintendo game on a HDTV. They need that “lack of definition” blur from CRT TVs. These sound files are similar on new audio hardware.

Rattling is the plastic slots that hold the glass. Put electric tape down the edges of your glass and it will go away. This will apply more pressure to the plastic when glass is reinstalled.

To reduce flipper strength and other options, hold the far left coin door button down to get to system adjustments.

Plastics unlikely for second owner, but CGC has amazing customer service so no harm in reaching out.

#8526 13 days ago

I also have this rattling and it's not the glass on mine. It's the rails not glued to the cabinet like the original B/W games. It stops if I press again the side of the rail during a game. I have yet to fix mine but a continuous piece of double sided foam tape should work.

See if sliding some thin pieces of cardboard temporarily between the cab and rail make it stop.

#8527 13 days ago
Quoted from marspinball:

I also have this rattling and it's not the glass on mine. It's the rails not glued to the cabinet like the original B/W games. It stops if I press again the side of the rail during a game. I have yet to fix mine but a continuous piece of double sided foam tape should work.

interesting; I had not noticed this. You are on right track here but the original WPC rails were not actually glued to the cabinet, they were installed with 3M body molding tape that ran the entire length of the rail; this type tape is similar to foam tape but better as it's thinner and inflexible. amazon.com link »

pasted_image (resized).png
#8528 13 days ago
Quoted from sonambulo:

- I noticed the music and effects don't sound "bright" or "clear". I tried balancing the subwoofer/speaker in the CGC menu but still not very happy. Is there any other place where I can adjust treble, bass or something like that?
- A lot of rattling... <b>So I removed the glass, and the rattling continues</b>and still very noticeable, even if I set the subwoofer down enough. The pin have sidemirrors too, IDK if they are rattling too.

I raised the playfield to see if is there anything that can vibrate, and I found that my subwoofer cone was bend in, like if someone pressed it.

I fixed it by pulling out with some tape and tried how the pin plays, but still A LOT of rattling.

Maybe my subwoofer is broken?

Can I just disconnect it?

#8529 13 days ago
Quoted from sonambulo:

I raised the playfield to see if is there anything that can vibrate, and I found that my subwoofer cone was bend in, like if someone pressed it.
I fixed it by pulling out with some tape and tried how the pin plays, but still A LOT of rattling.
Maybe my subwoofer is broken?
Can I just disconnect it?

Anti rattle tape on the playfield glass.

Same for the backglass if its loose.

#8530 12 days ago

I just got my first pin - AFMR. I got it set up, but I'm having a problem with the backbox. I can't get the glass to come out. I unlock the box and go to slide the glass up, but it won't go high enough to get past the display. It seems really stupid, but I can't figure out how to get it up and out. Any thoughts???

#8531 12 days ago
Quoted from Glangas:

Any thoughts???

Is the display far enough down into the cabinet ? Plastic channels on the sides slid up and preventing the back glass from going up far enough ?

LTG : )

#8532 12 days ago
Quoted from Glangas:

I just got my first pin - AFMR. I got it set up, but I'm having a problem with the backbox. I can't get the glass to come out. I unlock the box and go to slide the glass up, but it won't go high enough to get past the display. It seems really stupid, but I can't figure out how to get it up and out. Any thoughts???

Also, make sure that you have unlocked it and that you rotated the lock all the way so that it's fully out of the way.

#8533 12 days ago
Quoted from Glangas:

I unlock the box

Quoted from Fizz:

Also, make sure that you have unlocked it and that you rotated the lock all the way so that it's fully out of the way.

Just to be sure. Are you using the coin door key ? Or the lone key hanging inside the coin door by the coin chute ?

LTG : )

#8534 12 days ago
Quoted from Glangas:

I just got my first pin - AFMR. I got it set up, but I'm having a problem with the backbox. I can't get the glass to come out. I unlock the box and go to slide the glass up, but it won't go high enough to get past the display. It seems really stupid, but I can't figure out how to get it up and out. Any thoughts???

My AFMR was like this, but I was able to squeeze the bottom of the back glass out when needed, but it was real snug. It didn’t just clear the speaker panel when lifted like all my other machines. This was with the speaker panel fully seated in its groove. I never thought to troubleshoot it since I could get it out when needed, and I no longer have the machine. Just wanted to let you know you’re not alone.

#8535 12 days ago
Quoted from Glangas:

I can't get the glass to come out. I unlock the box and go to slide the glass up, but it won't go high enough to get past the display. It seems really stupid, but I can't figure out how to get it up and out.

Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Inspected everything ... First thing I noticed that I didn't care for is there is essentially 0 clearance between the bottom of the back glass and top of the speaker panel, I just had to pry it out. Once out I tried to press the back glass edge molding on tighter, it didn't seem to move, but the backglass did go in easier than it came out.

#8536 11 days ago
Quoted from sonambulo:

I noticed the music and effects don't sound "bright" or "clear". I tried balancing the subwoofer/speaker in the CGC menu but still not very happy. Is there any other place where I can adjust treble, bass or something like that?
- A lot of rattling... <b>So I removed the glass, and the rattling continues

Finally found it!

A speaker cable was disconnected, so I had no sound on the backbox speakers, I only had sound from the subwoofer... that's why everything was vibrating and sounded like shit.

Now sounds great and no rattling
cable (resized).jpg

#8537 11 days ago

Thanks everyone. I finally got up there nerve to just muscle it out, and that's all it took. I'm not sure why it's so tight, but hopefully I won't have to get back into it any time soon.

#8538 11 days ago

Super jealous of people who own this pin. I was able to play an LE again recently and it's like happiness in a box. It's so stunning to look at and so much fun to play. One day it will be mine. It's pinball perfection.

#8539 11 days ago

Been feeling like my coin door needed something, so I created this decal that covers the bill taker plate. If anyone is interested in buying one, I'll sell them for $10 ($12 international) which includes postage. Just PM me to purchase.

Decal is printed on adhesive vindy with photo quality printer then clear gloss vinyl is overlaid on top, decal is cut and corners rounded, then perimeter edges are colored black.

IMG_3955.JPGIMG_3954.JPG

#8540 6 days ago

Newbie question here. I just got a "new" AFMR CE that was a distributer's floor model. So I'm the first owner, but it's not really new. My problem is that the pop bumpers don't seem right. They hardly ever fire off. Once in a while they will activate, but usually the ball hits them and rolls away with out them activating. When I run a selenoid test, they both work. When I run a switch test, they both show up as "closed". Shouldn't they default to "open" during the test? Would "closed" mean that the leaves are touching at rest? If so, then why do they not show up as errors? And also, there are 3 pop bumpers on the game. Why are there only "left" and "right" in the test menus?

Thanks guys.

#8541 6 days ago
Quoted from Glangas:

When I run a switch test, they both show up as "closed". Shouldn't they default to "open" during the test? Would "closed" mean that the leaves are touching at rest? If so, then why do they not show up as errors? And also, there are 3 pop bumpers on the game. Why are there only "left" and "right" in the test menus?

The leaf blade below them should be open.

There is one more besides left and right. I don't have a game powered up to check. Go through coil tests, it's in there.

Adjust the leaf blade switch for it below the playfield.

Turn the game off. Lift playfield up and lean back. See the leaf blade switch ? The long one with the plastic spoon is pushed by a plastic rod coming down from the pop bumper skirt. This plastic spoon should be clean, ( not worn on older games ) well centered on the rod, just resting on it, not pushing it up. The shorter lower leaf blade switch should be close enough so the slightest ball hit triggers it yet vibration doesn't set it off. A little adjusting/tweaking, and you'll be fine.

LTG : )

#8542 6 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

There is one more besides left and right.

It's called Bottom Jet.

LTG : )

#8543 6 days ago

Jersey jacks website has a video on pop bumper repair etc including switch adjustment. They also have lots of other stuff. Really essential viewing to get started.

#8544 6 days ago

Flipper alignment question. I stuck a toothpick in the holes and aligned the flippers so the bottom of the rubber is just touching the toothpick when straight up. Is this correct or is it done without the rubber on the flipper?

CD2E6D3C-84F4-4C7B-A68A-AAD6194B9CD2 (resized).jpeg
#8545 6 days ago
Quoted from yuriijos:

Flipper alignment question. I stuck a toothpick in the holes and aligned the flippers so the bottom of the rubber is just touching the toothpick when straight up. Is this correct or is it done without the rubber on the flipper?[quoted image]

Usually, you should put the toothpick inside the rubber not outside of it. However, setup will vary by individual.

#8546 6 days ago
Quoted from yuriijos:

Flipper alignment question. I stuck a toothpick in the holes and aligned the flippers so the bottom of the rubber is just touching the toothpick when straight up. Is this correct or is it done without the rubber on the flipper?[quoted image]

I do it the same way you did it, but I always check to make sure the top of my flipper is in a straight line with the guide that feeds the flipper. I will typically use a straight edge of some sort to check it.

#8547 5 days ago
Quoted from yuriijos:

Flipper alignment question. I stuck a toothpick in the holes and aligned the flippers so the bottom of the rubber is just touching the toothpick when straight up. Is this correct or is it done without the rubber on the flipper?[quoted image]

Correctly aligned the flipper bats should have a slight droop to them.

They are not supposed to be in-line with the guides, unless you wish to modify their angle.

Simply press a toothpick between the rubber and the bat, then press the toothpick into the hole in the playfield.

#8548 5 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Correctly aligned the flipper bats should have a slight droop to them.
They are not supposed to be in-line with the guides, unless you wish to modify their angle.
Simply press a toothpick between the rubber and the bat, then press the toothpick into the hole in the playfield.

Just as I was stating. Here is the result when you do it that way.

IMG_3998.JPG
#8549 5 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Just as I was stating. Here is the result when you do it that way.[quoted image]

Toothpick between rubber and flipper - top or bottom of flipper?

#8550 5 days ago
Quoted from PunishersLEMC:

Toothpick between rubber and flipper - top or bottom of flipper?

Bottom.

LTG : )

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