Thanks Lloyd! I'll throw get that installed tonight.

Why do you have mini saucers on your MMR-LE? Sort of a knights vs. aliens theme going on?

I got a giggle out of it. Now, I don't quite understand your question. Are you saying that their may be a "correct" / "factory" orientation for each of the mini-saucers and you're wondering if your's are all positioned correctly?

Anyone tried any colored titan silicone/rubbers? I was wondering if any good color combinations exist, other than black

Stuieb84 I’ve seen some in green some in red some in white. Your game your choice, have some fun with it!
I’ve been putting translucents in mine lately.

I used red, really liked the way it came out.

All Titan glow in the darks for me.

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Titan's GITD is the way to go!

I also recommend the Titan gitd rubbers, and post sleeves.

That's the first thing I'm gonna do when I land an AFMr. I have the glow in the dark on my ACNC and I also have Titans on my ST. Love them!!

I can do this for you now. I will PM you the results.

M

Here you go. Hope it's clear.

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Anyone have the issue where the shot that should destroy the saucer instead awards a light lock? It happens intermittently for me.

There are 2 switches in the saucer exit subway.

The ball is not hitting the first one, or bouncing over it, to register a destroy.

But it "is" hitting the lock switch further down.

The first switch in the trough below mothership hole needs to be raised a little bit.
Most of the time you can just turn the body slightly to raise the wire in the slot.

If its super loose, tighten the tiny screws slightly until is snug, but dont over-tighten them and crush the switch body.

Check it in switch test after adjustment to make sure both switches activate with a ball.

Maybe this picture will help.

LTG : )

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Their service is top notch, I bought a SE NIB and had only a few issues, more with my familiarity with it. I did need some parts and they shipped them out ASAP. Waiting on the text CGC to come out.

I concur. I will buy the next CGC (whatever it is) or Spooky just because of their service. Top notch.
Most of my emails to Stern go un-answered.

All I've ever heard about CGC are good things. I would already have an LE if it wasn't for this plague. But hopefully I'll luck out and still get one when things settle down.
Thanks!

Mirror blades are great, but I’ve always been intrigued by the ones that illuminate. I’ve seen them at a show outside of the pin and they looked awesome.

I've had my AFM for maybe 1-2 months now, today I had the time to pop some pinstadiums on. Theres plenty of vitriol from the ol skool folk who can't stand them, but personally I love what they do. I wasn't expecting a huge improvement on AFM, but was super happy with the improvement.

I've added some iphone pics with the pinstadiums on and off. I've tried to adjust to keep the exposure as close to each other as possible. As a photographer by profession, I know it's not perfect, but it gives to me a very accurate indication of how it looks in person.
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I ditto this 100%. I initially hesitated, and I wouldn't put them on all my games, but the PinStadiums are a must have for AFMr IMO. I especially like the UV flashers which I have hooked up to the mother ship flasher.

I'm on the other end of this and I'm not a old schooler or a hater of pinstadiums. I had them on my RZ due to how dark the playfield was and they worked well. I just dont find any reason to brighten any other games I have I'm my collection including AFMR. I know you can adjust pinstadiums but I just dont see any issues with these games being under lighted. My gameroom has normal lighting and also a UV setup. Even in UV mode, the game is bright to me. Enjoy a great game either way!

I was very happy with what the pinstadium fusion did on my AFMR. Here's a video that shows the general lighting and strobe effects, much more dramatic in-person. Strobe multiball is particularly impressive with the red strobes on hits.

RZ is a dark game. Had a friend/neighbor (moved about a year ago) who had a RZ. He added Titan GITD rings and extra UV lighting and it really made a difference to the game.

As far as UV lighting in the game room, I'd love to see that. AFMr lights up well under UV, especially with Titan GITD rings, the green plastic protectors, and the florescent green posts I've added to mine. I don't have a UV setup, but when I hit it with a UV flashlight it looks awesome.

The best game I have for UV by far! Pics for UV are hard to take to get the complete look. Everyone loves the room compared to normal lighting. Completely different feel when playing!

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With more time on my hands during the COVID-19 shutdown I have been painting my attack from mars aliens using ink & acrylic paint (sprayed with clearcoat). One on the left is the painted and the one on the right is stock.

I tried to get it to match the color of the alternative translite I have on the game

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Huge improvement! Especially with that BG.

Does anyone know where to hook up the pinstadium lights underneath the cabinet so that you can get the most out of the stobe multibal and have the pin stadium lights go off during that mode?

When I had an AFMR I hooked mine up to one of the Martian flashers and set it to red. The effect was a red strobe on a saucer hit during that mode which I thought was pretty cool looking. You can see it in the vid I posted above: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/attack-from-mars-remake-afmr-owners-club/page/169#post-5579048

So where do you have them connected currently? I installed them as per pinstadium instractions: https://pinstadium.com/installation-instructions-pin-stadiums/
GI will turn off during strobe multiball, the UV is attached to the alien ship.

Exactly how I did it.

Just finished designing and printing my 3D AFM flipper toppers. I'm selling them for $20 (includes US shipping) per pair. As always, please PM me if interested in purchasing these or any of my mods.

All 4 colors are selectable by the buyer, and the green I used for the saucer in mine is UV reactive. I also have a UV reactive orange as pictured at bottom. While I have solid black, I opted for galaxy black (silver speckles) in my first run which look really good.

FYI, I realize these are very similar to some other toppers on the market. However, I've incorporated the design elements and process of my many other 3D printed toppers that I offer. I was making these for myself, regardless, and figured if anyone happens to like my version and wants to customize the colors to their liking then they now have the ability to do so.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/attack-from-mars-3d-printed-flipper-toppers#post-5590477
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Here are a few color combination ideas.
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Is it worth the effort to install the green trim? Mine came with the black installed and the LE green in a box....side rails easy to install?

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What all pieces do you have in green? If side rails, lockbar, and legs then I would definitely say go for it. While I've not changed them out on this game, I have on others (older games) and they can be a bear. You have to be really careful not to bend the rails and sometimes the adhesive they use just comes apart leaving some on the cabinet that can be very difficult to remove and some on the inside of the rail. Will need input from someone who has done it on a modern game, but I imaging it should be a little easier since you're not dealing with degraded 30 year old adhesive.

Not too bad, but its easier if you pull off the head.

Yes. Legs and lock down bar....piece of cake...

Side rails are what I'm a tad worried on. Not sure how they're held down from CGC. Wouldn't be too concerned if I was replacing the cab art, bit of course, I am not.

Why would I need to pull the head? I believe the side rails come off without hitting it or am I wrong on that?

Yes you are wrong about this.

They are securely taped in place with 3m VHB tape.

You have to carefully cut the tape with a thin putty knife and hinge them off. It takes a little patience.

Theres a way to do this.

Its easier to line up the hole in the front for the ground screw if you apply the rails at an angle.

Othetwise the adhesive sticks and rips the decals.

The backbox hinge does not allow for a proper installation.

Alternatively remove the backbox hinges with the backbox still attached via the lock clip.

Remove and reapply the siderails then replace the hinges.

Locate the siderails before removing the adhesive tape.

Tape them in place with blue masking tape.
Hinge them up via the tape.

Peel off the adhesive tape, press the siderail down etc.

Make sure the front hole lines up.

FYI, I've had good success with other games if I heat the rails with a heat gun on low or hair dryer (just get them warm to the touch, don't over do it) to help loosen the adhesive. Would you recommend this for AFMr?

I would definitely heat them a bit.

But at the same time be prepared to use the 2 putty knife method to help out

Still need to scrape off old tape etc

That makes perfect sense.

So, black it stays!

I would try a real heat gun.
I use a propane torch very carefully but only on stainless steel, I would not do on painted rails.
I could not get the 3M hot enough with a hair hot air blower.
I get it just hot enough and use a plastic putty blade to separate it.

I have a MB SE and an AFM CE. The sound on the MB is superior to the AFM. I looked at the schematics for both games and do not see a difference in the audio section. What can I do to improve the sound quality of my AFM?