Nope, everything else about the game is unaffected. If you look at the schematic there is a 12V circuit dedicated to just the 2 coin door LEDs (there are other 12V that feed starter LED, launch LED, etc.)

I agree that it was an expensive mistake, and I have debated whether or not to leave it "as is", to try to repair the board myself, to route a 12V feed directly from the power supply, or to replace the board. I've decided to replace the board to return the game back to fully working order, and consider it a lesson learned.

I'm no electrician, but the way it was explained to me is that the issue was caused by drawing too much current on the coin door circuit causing some component on the control board to fail.

Can you post a picture of the board?

I'm glad that you made peace with it, though I still don't agree that its ok. The coin door GI uses standard 12V wedge sockets, and is SUPPOSED to be user changeable/replaceable. That is what it was designed for. LEDs break and you should be able to switch them out. And you are saying "NON-OEM" parts were used...but how are you going to get OEM led bulbs from Chicago? Its not like they have a user friendly store or something.

On the other hand....I do know that you went from probably 1smd bulbs that Chicago had in there...to using 8smd comet bulbs, which....was probably overboard, since bulbs like 8smd are usually used in high powered flashers....but what should be considered reasonable?

What if you put in a 2smd 12v comet wedge bulb and it blew the circuit board? And CGC still gave you the run around that you used NON-OEM parts? Would you do as your namesake says (mr_tantrum) and throw a bigger tantrum? I would...

If you are playing it, you won't even see the coin slots.

The PIN-PCB-CONTRL2 board is the one in the backbox to the left of the larger board. J3 is where the 12V yellow and the yellow/white that goes to the coin door are connected.
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Did you really use 8smd bulbs? How bright do you need your coin rejects to be?

CGC probably could have put a warning not to exceed #mA when replacing certain bulbs. Here is the relevant circuit from the Controller schematic.

There is a 4.7k pull-up resistor to the 12V VCCO supply, but they put some 1N4148 diodes in series with the LEDs; these 1N4148s are rated for 150mA continuous forward current, though they can handle a surge up to 300mA. I doubt the 4.7k resistors would be damaged. This is what provides the power/current to the LEDs.

The D-latch they're using as the LED driver, 74LVC573, can provide up to 50mA of output current (absolute maximum), though they put 10k resistors in series with the outputs; it's highly unlikely these 10k resistors and the chip are damaged.

I would start by measuring the 1N4148s, but measure the resistors as well. In all possibilities (no matter how unlikely), you either damaged the diode, resistor(s), or chip, all of which are easy to replace if you know how to solder SMD parts.
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No one with PPS/CGC would recommend a spot.

LTG : )

I suppose they wouldn't.

RM

Sorry to hear that this happened to you, but thank you for sharing the story. Invariably you are helping others prevent this from happening to them.

I bought the flipper button light kits from Mr_Tantrum, is this a warranty breaker?

Well, after looking around, BriteButtons offers a kit that they say is compatible with CGC games and they show how to wire it in.

http://www.britemods.com/britebuttons-.html

I am guessing that CGC's position is they don't support any non-CGC mods of any kind, and that owners do so entirely at our own risk, including voiding part or all of our warranty.

This is entirely understandable from their perspective.

I'd say anything non-approved we do with our games it at our own risk.

Disappointing to a degree, and the board failure from simply putting otherwise common LED bulbs in the coin door causing such an expensive problem is frustrating.

As previous posters have said, fixing that board is probably fairly trivial for a skilled electronics tech that can do small SMD device replacement (which is not me)

RM

Wasn't aware of britemods.com before. Looks like they are connecting their flipper buttons directly to the power supply in the cab. The RGB illuminated flipper buttons connect to the same power as the rgb leds in the speakers. At least we have proven that the system can handle it no problem (since I also connected a 4' rgb led strip to the same circuit as well as the flipper buttons!).

They are using radial led boards. Too bad the are only a single color...if someone made a RGB version that would be sweet! Then the RGB mod would be much brighter.

Ok.....leds came in and got all 4 martians done now. I didn't change anything with my previous process, just got slightly faster at it.

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And...for some reason I'm just now noticing this lock bar for when you raise the playfield.

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The instructions in the cabinet say to raise the arm and lock it in place...but how is it supposed to work? I don't see a place where it locks into the playfield. And...the bar has a 1 1/4" rubber ring on it? Did a previous owner put that on for some reason or is it on all pins from factory?

That rubber is an age old question that has not been definitively answered, but the best answer I’ve heard is that one can use it to fasten down that arm during transport.

When you raise the playfield, use that bar to secure it in position by seating the round part into the hook shaped end of the rail mounted to the underside of the playfield.

Many/most will say to never use the support bar since it twists/torques the playfield. Would be ideal if the manufactures provided bars on both sides to support the playfield. Whenever I need inside I just rotate mine all the way up and rest it against the backbox, but you definitely must remember to remove all of the balls before doing such. For quick jobs, I just yell for my son to come to the gameroom and I make him hold it up.

Alright should a buy a remake classic or a nice original? About same price.. Any thoughts?

Remake all the way imo.

I struggled with the same decision just a few months ago. I've always wanted an AFM, but ones in nice condition can only be found at a premium. When the opportunity came for me to purchase a pre-owned AFMr LE, at first I was dismissive. I then did tons of reading and research, and came to the decision that for similar money I'd rather have the newer technology. After now having the pin and comparing it to my two early 90's games (Williams Getaway HS2 & DE Jurassic Park), I'm so glad that I chose the AFMr over the original. The newer technology is solid, the sound and video are superior, the topper on the LE is really cool, the cleanliness of the cabinet and circuitry are a welcome plus verses my older games, the vibrancy of the cabinet and playfield artwork are superior, CGC customer support is great even for out of warranty games, and I could go on.

There are those who will always prefer the original from a collector's perspective, but if you are one who just loves the title, wants an excellent condition game with newer technology and features, and just wants to play without having to continually fix/repair/maintain then the AFMr is for you.

Thanks, yeah most of my collection is Bally/Williams stuff just because I prefer the feel of these era games. I am just not a big fan of newer stern games just wondered if it feels that way.

Remakes are great, but aren't easily repairable. If you can find a nice example of an original, I'd grab it. I doike my SE a lot, but they are tough to work on and repair.

I honestly don't understand the debate outside of being a purist. Given this is a remake thread, and I have a remake, but the option of a brand new game vs one decades old just doesn't make sense to me.

People can say that they play different. Whatever. Place any 2 pinball machines beside each other and they will play different. My buddy and I both have an Iron Man VE, guess what, they play different. Same machine, came out the same year, doesn't matter. That's such a bogus argument and an attempt to demean a remake as "not the same".

Fact is, the remake was executed very well and unless you are a purist and want an original for original sake, there is no question. Get a new machine.

I've played several games on a very nicely restored AFM, and I would say that the feel of the game is nearly identical from my memory. I bet if you put them side-by-side and rotated play you might or might not notice a few minor differences in overall feel assuming both games were identically dialed-in. Of course the remake has all new parts, LEDs, etc. However, several of the playfield components are identical and interchangeable with the original such as the plastics, posts, etc.

To add to this discussion, I believe that claiming the original "shoots better" or is more "solid" is rubbish. I played AFM on location hundreds of times over 10 years before I ended up buying a AFMrSE. It shoots and plays exactly as I remember and expect, with the benefit of a minty fresh cabinet, playfield, and way better display and sound system.

Definitely more the player that the game. I've often argued that I could hand a crooked twig to a professional pool player and he would wipe the table with me using a $1,000 Balabushka cue. Similarly, if I switch my 20 year old Ping i3 knock offs with what's in Tiger's bag and we played a round he would still best me by 30+ strokes.

Just my way of saying that an amateur is an amateur regardless of the tools and a true professional can adapt and still perform at the highest level. However, us amateurs like to think that the tools make us significantly better (a multitude of businesses make billions knowing we think this way). If they don't, then well . . . it can't be our fault - must be bad equipment.

Pssshhh. Whatever. I use Tiger Woods blades and it easily improves the distance of my shots a good 10 yards deeper into the woods.

Yes it has. Many times. Though you may not have seen it.

When brand new, crated and shipped. The rubber ring secured the prop rod to the metal bracket it rests on. So it doesn't bounce around in shipping.

I've uncrated many NIB pins and that is the way it came.

And I usually didn't think of it until I lift the playfield up and hold with one hand and go to grab the prop rod that is still secured by the rubber ring. After releasing the prop rod, I either left the rubber ring dangle, or tossed it. I didn't think it would last long in game play being exposed to sharp metal edges.

LTG : )

LTG I'm looking to install wifi plugs (Alexa) for my pinball machines to easily turn them all on/off at the same time. Does this hurt the newer games such as AFMr that use a computer type system, or is it akin to moving the power switch down the cord?

It shouldn't bother them, just an off/switch. They already have that.

LTG : )

I just bought an inexpensive version for my 3 pins, and it works great. I'm not using Alexa, but phone/tablet app (this model does support Alexa/Google Home). You can individually control and even schedule the 4 AC outlets, but all 4 USB are treated as a single outlet (i.e. they are either all on or all off). USB doesn't really matter for me, and I didn't need one with individual external controls since it is behind my pins out of reach.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074CJYPZV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00

Thanks, @mr_tantrum. I use these, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DYMS1L3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00 I have them throughout the house, but wasn't sure if they hurt the computer type systems on newer pins. I didn't know if flipping the switch triggered the system to shut down in a different manner than just pulling the plug. Sounds like there is no difference.

Those are pretty cool I just ordered some to try them out.. Thanks!

Finally fot to play a AFMR tonight and wow, it is soooo good! Now i gotta decide which to buy between AFMR and MBR. I like the MB theme better but this game is amazing also.

I have an original MB and an AFMr. Being just an average player I find the AFM to be a much more challenging machine, and very rewarding when having good games. MB on the other hand is considerably easier, but like you said it has a great theme and a great look to it. If I get too frustrated playing one of my other pins I can usually go to MB and have a fun game no matter what.

Would like to ask you a question Who-Dey. Noticed that you have AS pro and Munsters prem. How do you like/compare the play of those two pins?

I like my AS Pro alot. I know a lot of people don't like it but i think most say that because they dont like the band maybe and have never played it because it really is a great great game. Munsters....i am a Fan of the theme so i love the game. Its JohnBorg and it has great shots and flow. The rules are super simple and thats why it gets a bad wrap, but the game is really fun as long as you dont require a deep rule set. The rules also need some small tweaks and i think it will get them In time. I have a black and white premium and i will never sell it, premium is the way to go on Munsters because the lower playfield adds a lot to the game.

I think the bottom line is, if your a Munsters fan you will like it and if your not then you would be better off with another game like JP or something like that.

Well, my quest to replace the orange coin rejects with green to match my green LE accents is finally over. I just received the replacement board, plugged everything back in, and voila - I have coin door LED's once more (using the original bulbs, of course). Now, how do I make them look green instead of teal (the color of the button plastic)? I came up with the idea of designing LED covers for 3D printing. I tried 3 different green filaments, but in the end "green apple" did the trick.

Here are the covers.
IMG_3324 (resized).JPG

Here they are installed (note how I repositioned the bulb mounts for maximum brightness).
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Here is a look with left LED + bulb cover and the right LED w/o bulb cover.
IMG_3320 (resized).JPG

And finally, the end result.
IMG_3323 (resized).JPG

I know they're simple but can you share the STL? Upload to thingiverse maybe?

Here is the Thingiverse link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4121647

Print at .2mm (higher resolution is not necessary). I experimented with a few different designs, but what worked best is where the face is .4mm thick and the wall is .8mm (2 layers on my .4mm nozzle). They just friction fit over the bulb.

If anyone would like a pair but can’t print them yourself, I’m happy to mail them if you’ll cover postage cost (probably around $4 for US shipping).

Here is the filament I used: https://www.amazon.com/3D-Solutech-Filament-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B00ME76OHA/ref=sr_1_3

And here are the coin rejects (they are really teal, not green like the picture): https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/42-0517-03

Inserts are attached.
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Does anyone know if they plan on doing another run of the "Limited" anytime in the near future? Or "limited" meant "Limited" one run and that is it.

I don't think so. The only reason the MMR Royal was they were at some point going to do a big display. And they have run more regular MMR's.

LTG : )

So after upgrading my 4 Martians to Mick's Big-O Jiggly ones (https://www.mickspinball.com/big-o-jiggly-martian-add-on), I wondered what I was going to do with the originals (and the extra jiggly one I have). Up until now I just had them hidden in the coin box inside the cabinet. However, I wanted a way to display them so I came up with a 3D printed stand. The stand works perfectly with the originals and Mick's, allows the Martian to be suspended in the air, and lets you easily display the green creatures. So, if you have extra Martians laying around you want to display, then consider purchasing some of my stands.

I designed two different versions: one where the Martian is completely upright and the other where it leans forward.

Photos show stand printed in "clear", but I have nearly 20 different colors to choose from. Price is $10 for 1 stand (includes US shipping) and $5 more for each additional stand (e.g. $15 for 2, $20, for 3, $25 for 4). Please PM me if interested in purchasing.
IMG_3349 (resized).JPGIMG_3348 (resized).JPGIMG_3346 (resized).JPGIMG_3347 (resized).JPG

IMG_3352 (resized).JPG

IMG_3351 (resized).JPG

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RETURN TO BATTLE SOLDIER!!!

Re-joined the club after a 16 month Hiatus. Repurchased my original AFMRLE from @strummy! Bought it nib, and asked him if he ever decided to part with it to give me a holler. We’ve kept in touch over the last year or so, and he’s nothing short of a complete gentleman. So, when I got a text asking me if I wanted it back, I JUMPED at the opportunity! Very rare that you also get a game back cosmetically as perfect, and BETTER (Eat at Eddys mod, and full cliffies) than you originally sold it!

Super happy to be back. My son was ECSTATIC as well (he was removing the wrapping in the car on the way home LOL)! If Strummy ever has a game for sale, deal with absolute confidence!
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Great story. Very happy for you PinLen83

Does anyone else get a high pitch sound (very faint) when they reduce the backbox lighting through the menu? It changes pitch based on the setting when I drop it from MAX, -1, -2, etc. It's sounds strongest on MIN. I would prefer to keep my backbox on MIN lighting but after hearing this sound, I don't want to cause any damage.

For reference, I have the V2.0 chip.

Yes, it hums a little.
I just left it brighter.

Does anyone have a solution or suggestion to mute the bright light shining through the legs of the top left martian?

Can’t say that I ever noticed it. Can you post a pic? Does it depend on your viewing angle?

You won’t hurt anything. The hum is just some vocal caps due to resonant frequencies. If you don’t mind the sound and like the lights, go for it.

Glad that someone else has noticed that as well, because it has always bugged me.

My solution..is that you can rotate that martian to the left a bit and the martian's left leg will then block most of the light. The martian is rubber so you have some play with twisting him on his metal holder...and he stays pretty well in that position, even with shaking.

jrh7,

I suggest you buy a set of my Big O Jiggly Martians, that will take care of the light through the leg problem, and you will actually see the Martians on the playfield, not those puny, lifeless and stiff factory installed ones..

Mick

https://www.mickspinball.com/big-o-jiggly-martian-add-on