A huge of super high quality cards has developed here on pinside.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/custom-apron-cards-printable-versions-only

Thank you very much Pinballinreno, I have looked through those already, but I am looking for more specific pricing card/s for AFMr. or ones specifically that I can edit...I have one on location that I want to charge [email protected] and 3 for $2.00...and will fit in a bit better than just a white piece of paper....

Mick

Ask Coindropper if he can make a quick edit for you.

He has done so in the past.

I've done dozens of custom cards for people, and am happy to design a set for you. I sell them for $10 a pair (includes postage), and they are printed on a photo quality printer using OEM inks and ultra gloss photo paper. I then coat them with a clear gloss vinyl for durability and longevity.

PM me with your specific ideas if you are interested, and I'm sure I can create something to your liking.

Hmmm... ok so I have just joined the AFM remake club and have a couple of questions.

1. There seems to alot of chat re cliffys and protectors. I have ordered a AFM ‘Special’ edition, what is the definitive list of stuff I need?

2. Ok, not very good at this one. There is also some chat about an old production microchip and a newer version. What do I need to look out for and why?

Merry Christmas all you pinball heads!

Craig

Open backbox and ensure you have PIC 2.0 installed

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My game should be delivered this afternoon. Can’t wait to set this bad boy up and play! Shout out to Melissa and Cointaker, awesome service.

Cool. I am buying the game ‘new in box’ what porduction date did they do the ‘sol v2’ change?

It was pretty early on.
But your distributor will send you a kit for free.

So will CGC.

So...I came up with an idea to make the RGB lighted flipper buttons a bit brighter. And it does work...they are a little bit brighter. I just put took aluminum foil, folded it up a few times, and then taped it between the flipper arm and retention metal flap.

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I am a bit worried about having exposed conductive foil there...I should have just added a layer of packing tape on the outside and that would have insulated it electrically (I think).

Neat idea.
I am still hoping someone can 3d print or make some clear nuts to replace the metal ones.

Received the game but I must have gotten a earlier build, November 24th 2017, and it does not have the V2.0 chip. Also game did not come with a coin box, balls, power cord, and goodie bag. All I received once opened and set up we’re the legs, a operations manual, and a warranty card. Could someone please tell me what’s suppose to be included with the game? At this point I have to borrow a cord and balls from another game to get this game going. What am I not suppose to do when I have the V1.0 chip?

The issue is when 3D printing clear, it is very difficult to get a non-milky look without expensive PET with thin layers and even then it requires expensive finishing.

I've seen smaller clear bolts and nuts (you can google it), but nothing the size of a flipper button. Heck, they make clear flipper buttons, why not matching nuts?

With the 1.0 chip, do not change the settings in the CGC menu related to flipper or other coil strength. Keep them at default and you’ll be fine until you get a new chip. Contact CGC support for the chip.

Please go to - https://www.chicago-gaming.com/ - under Support open a ticket on the help desk.

It may go to me. I'll alert it to CGC.

As pintechev posted, don't change settings in the CGC menu until you get the updated chip in there.

Thank you.
LTG : )

When I got mine a couple of months ago, even as the second owner they asked me to get the chip through the original distributor (which I did).

Used another power cord and installed 4 balls, started game up and started a game. No coils are firing? Checked all fuses in backbox with a meter and checked ok. Go into test mode and check all solenoids, they fire fine. Start a game and no ball is kicked out and flippers don’t work. What’s going on here?

Flap on coin door fully depressing the high power interlock switch ?

LTG : )

Nope when closing the door it doesn’t close the high power switch. How do I adjust that as the metal plate is stationary? Edit. I just bent it out at that was it.

Yuriijos, how disappointing this must be! Missing pieces - that's pretty weak. Hope CGC/your distro gets this sorted out promptly!

Your patience will be rewarded!

It does happen though. I’m sure CGC will give you the missing items. They are a lot harder to get on the phone than Stern and JJ but they are very helpful through their ticket system. I’ve spoken on the phone also. Arturo is a great guy. I had a bad light wire for some of my GI lights and they are all strung together. He sent me a new pre-wired harness and pictures on how to replace them. Worked perfect. FWIW, I’ve had zero problems with my AFMR LE since I got it other than a bad wire which fell out of its connector. I also had to get the 2.0 chip. Be VERY CAREFUL installing that chip. I bent the prongs several times trying to put it in. Finally got it seated and my topper then came to life.

My ball launch is still a little questionable making the top loop most of the time but not 100%. I’m going to try several of the tips in this thread to get that working but does CGC send out replacement ball launch ramps with the correct bend or should I just bend it myself? The right screw that secures that ramp to the playfield is stripped too.

Please go to https://www.chicago-gaming.com/ Support - Help Desk and open a ticket.

It may go to me, I'll alert it to CGC for what next.

LTG : )

LTG, yes I did open a ticket but I would like to play the game too and not just have it sit around until I get these parts. Since I shouldn't be lowering the flipper power I'm also trying to figure out how the right ramp wireworm needs to be "tweaked" to stop getting balls flying off the end and into the outline when hitting the lock ball shot.

I'd raise the playfield pitch for now to slow down flipper power.

LTG : )

Using gravity is cheating.

Until he gets the updated PIC in his game, he can't change coil settings.

LTG : )

I put a little piece of dead foam on the right ramp right a little before it transitions to the wire form and that seems to have done the trick.DFAF47CB-AE99-4F66-893A-B03317D363C2 (resized).jpeg

Anybody know how to get rid of these bubbles in the translite? It looks like the glass is partially sticking to the artwork and don’t know the best way to get rid of it.
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My mbr is like this. I figured I was just gonna have to open it up and pull it off the glass and reset it. I’ve been too lazy but it does annoy me seeing it with the game powered off. Love to hear what others think

Moisture or shiny translite can cause this.

Remove translite. Clean glass and dry. Dry translite with microfiber towel. Reassemble.

If it returns. Remove translite. Dry it. Clean glass. Then dust glass with talcum powder or baby powder. Blow it all off. Reassemble.

LTG : )

I've dealt with it since there were translites.

Moisture or shiny translite can cause this.

Remove translite. Clean glass and dry. Dry translite with microfiber towel. Reassemble.

If it returns. Remove translite. Dry it. Clean glass. Then dust glass with talcum powder or baby powder. Blow it all off. Reassemble.

LTG : )

How about CGC sending me a new one instead?

A new one won't fix anything. And no guarantee in shipping you won't have the same issue.

I doubt they will. You can ask them.

LTG : )

Nothing is damaged. Just stuck to the glass. Shiny static or moisture.

LTG : )

Understood. I’ll have to take that apart and correct it I guess. Awesome game!

It’s not that hard to remove the translite. Just remove the entire box from the pin by unplugging it’s wiring harness from the circuit board then you can take it to a table or workbench to do the work.

Joined the club about a month ago. Just built some custom lights for my AFM and was surprised how well the blue LEDs (no white mixed in) made certain things on the playfield glow. Second pic is white and yellow mix. Pin is off in both pics.

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I've recently had an issue with my drop target decal (the nuclear symbol one). I made this as a 1" x 1" decal since that is the exposed area of the target when in the up position. I noticed a small white spot in the lower left of mine which progressively got worse. What I figured out is that the paper was separating as the edge was getting caught on my Cliffy protector when it raised/lowered. To combat this, I created a new decal that is 1/8" taller so that the bottom of the decal sits below the slot when in the target is in the up position.

All of this to say that if you've purchased a target decal set from me and are experiencing the same issue, please PM me to let me know and I'll happily send you a new taller decal at no cost to you.

I’m thinking about swapping out my star posts with these along with Comet post LEDs.

Has anyone used either before, and what are thoughts on how it might look?

https://www.pinballlife.com/fluorescent-green-transluscent-star-post-1-116-tall.html

I’ve had the same issue with my AFMR LE (#21) since it’s been out of the box. Never did get around to submitting a warranty ticket and now I think my time is up.

That said. Finally installed my first two mods. Can you tell what they are?

Thinking of doing the under cab lighting next.

Love this pin. It is my grail.

FA734A00-6937-4CE6-881C-C4D29AE286C4 (resized).jpeg

I tried the GITD comet lights and posts...you can see those here ->

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/attack-from-mars-remake-afmr-owners-club/page/157#post-5317588

It was $36 plus shipping...and thankfully I was able to return them.

I do think green transparent with normal white light would look better though. They would be around the same price...$22 for the comet lights and $4.50 for the posts...but then you have to add in shipping so probably around the same price. Plus you have to make your own wiring harness so you need the parts for that (as you are aware...but they are easy to make).

For me the effect wasn't great enough to replace the GITD with something else so I went back to stock.

Mezel's EaE mod and the attack wave gate sticker.

Not with that glare from the playfield glass

I went back and forth on this, but ended up splitting off my LED flipper button cabling and ran a light strip along the two sides and front edge of the underside of the cab. I actually really like it, especially when the room is dark.

I'd open a ticket anyway. Can't hurt to try.

LTG : )

Thanks for the reply. I do remember seeing your post, and the GITD seemed underwhelming. However, I do think that either lighting the original red posts or the neon greens I linked to might be significantly more visually appealing. I'm thinking of buying white lights so that I can use them with either the red or green posts. I'll re-evaluate after Christmas and make a decision then.

I posted my high score last night of almost 17B, and had a blast doing it. I had A few different multi-balls (including strobe), destroyed Mars, and I was only a super jackpot short of ruling the universe (I need to figure out what that is and how to achieve it). Guess I'll just have to keep trying.

Definitely my favorite game of all time to play, and I absolutely love the theme, graphics, and call-outs. I even have my son walking around the house saying, "Get your hands off of me . . . all four of them!"

That's so frustrating have 5 of 6 blue lights and draining. Especially when conquer mars was one of them. After over 30 times of that same scenario I couldn't take it and lowered the outlane posts half way tasty humans

One of the keys to RTU is to ignore the mothership and cities.

They will be taken care of almost accidentally during multiballs and the other activities.

Also getting the extra ball in the video mode. Smart bombs is the key.

Very effective, push the launch button to clear the screen.
Sweep from corner to corner almost without stopping at 45 degree angles.

Bombs also work in Martian attack to get the last Martian without losing a ball.

Definitely for 3rd one on but I usually try to bang out 1st 2 to get extra ball.