(Topic ID: 192072)

Attack From Mars Remake (AFMr) Owners Club


By Pin_Guy

2 years ago



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#7601 31 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I do like the mezel one.

I didn't realize there were variances?

I was looking at this one:
https://cointaker.com/products/attack-from-mars-eat-at-eddys-building

#7603 31 days ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

I didn't realize there were variances?
I was looking at this one:
https://cointaker.com/products/attack-from-mars-eat-at-eddys-building

The only variance I am aware of is the one that I just developed: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/attack-from-mars-remake-afmr-owners-club/page/152#post-5260091

I like the idea, but didn't like the old style office building. My idea was to make one in the likeness of the buildings in the artwork on the backboard & translite.

#7604 31 days ago

Just finished installing my Pinball Life BriteCaps EVO (red with original AFMr caps). I have the outer ring set to its brightest, and the inner ring to light on vibration. FYI, replacing the bulbs/caps on these is quite the chore. I had to remove the right wire frame, the tractor beam ramp, and the back ramp had to be fully loosed so that it could be moved around enough to get to the cap underneath it. Fit is perfectly good with nothing touching or rubbing.
IMG_2900.JPGIMG_2901.JPGIMG_2904.JPGezgif.com-crop.gif

#7605 31 days ago
Quoted from joseph5185:

I didn't realize the Eat @ Eddy's MOD was so popular because it covered the VUK! (and looks like it belonged in the game from the factory)
I have much to learn about pinball...
I do NEED this...

I’m in Raleigh and have this mod plus a couple others if you want to see it in person.

#7606 31 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Just finished installing my Pinball Life BriteCaps EVO (red with original AFMr caps). I have the outer ring set to its brightest, and the inner ring to light on vibration. FYI, replacing the bulbs/caps on these is quite the chore. I had to remove the right wire frame, the tractor beam ramp, and the back ramp had to be fully loosed so that it could be moved around enough to get to the cap underneath it. Fit is perfectly good with nothing touching or rubbing.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That looks great to me. Thank you so much for sharing the pics and comment.
I was worried about fit. I am scared to ask how long it took.
Thx again

#7607 31 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Just finished installing my Pinball Life BriteCaps EVO (red with original AFMr caps). I have the outer ring set to its brightest, and the inner ring to light on vibration. FYI, replacing the bulbs/caps on these is quite the chore. I had to remove the right wire frame, the tractor beam ramp, and the back ramp had to be fully loosed so that it could be moved around enough to get to the cap underneath it. Fit is perfectly good with nothing touching or rubbing.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Those look really cool!
Like adding more saucers!

Well done!

#7608 31 days ago

I'm hoping CGC comes out with a RGB GI kit for AFMr like they just did for MMr!

#7609 31 days ago
Quoted from wolftownjeff:

That looks great to me. Thank you so much for sharing the pics and comment.
I was worried about fit. I am scared to ask how long it took.
Thx again

Well, I didn’t time myself but if anyone decides to give it a try, I’m happy to document how to remove everything since I’ve now done it twice: once to replace my rings and a second time for these pop lights. There are a couple of things you have to watch out for.

#7610 31 days ago

I just defeated Mars for the first time ever - lots of fun. However nowhere close to ruling the universe as I only had three achievements.

#7611 30 days ago
Quoted from Only_Pinball:

I'm hoping CGC comes out with a RGB GI kit for AFMr like they just did for MMr!

...what is this please ... "RGB GI kit"

Thank you

#7613 30 days ago
Quoted from Amused_to_Death:

[quoted image]
Light bleeding through the cracks near the speakers. I didn’t see any in your photos, but I have seen it in person on other LE remakes with light-up speakers. I was wondering if you had added something to fill the cracks. I guess your panel must have a tighter fit than most.

Playing tonight I do notice that I have some minor bleeding. However, it is not really noticeable when standing close to the machine when plying. However, you do see it if you shift to the side one way or the other.

#7615 29 days ago

So, I've been asked about any pointers I might have when installing the Pinball Life EVO BriteCaps. Here is my best effort to document the process. Before starting I recommend placing a towel over the playfield to protect it. BTW, this same process can be used to remove the pieces you need to replace the rings (I did have to cut the zip ties from the top ramp to get the access I needed however - no biggie, just took lots of pics beforehand and redid zip ties when putting it all back together).

-1) Remove the cow ramp by removing the 2 post screws and the 2 ramp flap screws. Be sure you use a screwdriver with the correct size head so as not to strip the ramp screws. When replacing the 2 ramp flap screws, make sure the heads are seated below the metal flap. You may have to use something thin and non-abrasive to "pop" the flap up over the head when you are re-installing.
1 (resized).jpg

-2) Remove the right wire frame. Pay careful attention to the center mount screw as there will be a zip tie that will come loose from this. When re-installing, be sure to first put the ramp in position and slide the zip tie back over the post.

a) Remove the nut and washer from the right lower sling.
2a (resized).jpg

b) Remove the screw from the center support.
2b (resized).jpg

c) Carefully slide the two wires from where they are seated into the metal bracket attached to the top ramp. Note that you cannot fully remove the wireframe since wires are attached to it, but carefully set it out of the way and be careful not to scratch anything.
2c (resized).jpg

-3) Loosen the top ramp so that you can maneuver it around enough to replace the pop caps You do not need to fully remove the top ramp, but if you do you will need to cut all of the zip ties off and disconnect cables - I highly suggest not doing this.

a) Remove the nut and washer from the post securing the top ramp above the 3 pop bumpers.
3a (resized).jpg

b) Loosen the top gate nut and remove the lower gate screw securing to the plastic, then rotate the gate so as to access the ramp flap screws. Also, remove the 2 ramp flap screws as performed in step 1.
3b (resized).jpg

c) THIS IS CRITICAL OR YOU WILL DAMAGE YOUR PLAYFIELD AND/OR CABINET | 1) Use a small bag or sock or something to wrap around the upper ramp flap. When maneuvering the ramp around you could scratch the playfield with the thin metal piece. 2) Do the same to cover the metal support bracket at the right of the top plastic ramp. This piece is sharp, and it will scratch your side blade/panel or even the top of your side rail as you maneuver it around.
3c (resized).jpg

-4) Maneuver the top ramp so as to access removal of the 2 screws on one of the pop caps. You may have to hold it up or to the side (or have an assistant do it) to keep it out of the way depending upon which cap you are replacing. Be careful not to scratch the underside of it with a screwdriver or other tool while working to replace the caps.

a) Remove the two screws, and set them aside as you will be using the longer screws supplied with the BriteCaps to re-secure the caps after installation.

b) Remove the LED bulb.

c) Insert the new BriteCap module and orient it so that the screw holes line up with the holes in the housing, and the two small adjustment screws on top of the BriteCap are accessible (i.e. not covered up by the ramp to where you can't get to them).

d) Repeat the process for the other two pop caps.

-5) Turn the pin on in order to adjust the brightness of the outer rings and to set the inner rings to be solid or triggered by vibration. The document that comes with the caps will tell you which adjustment screw is which, or you just turn one to see what it controls. You'll need a fine tipped Philips screwdriver to turn these screws. You only need to turn slightly to achieve change, so don't over do it.
5 (resized).jpg

a) Find which screw controls the out ring brightness. Turn this screw to adjust to desired brightness (I have mine at 100%). Perform this for all 3 caps, as you'll want them to be equally bright, I assume.

b) Turn the other screw to desired setting. If the inner ring is currently on, then it will always be on. If you want it off by default and triggered by vibration then turn the screw slightly until the inner ring goes off. When set to the off position, the inner ring will flash during vibration (i.e. when a ball activates its pop). When adjustments are completed, turn the game off.

-6) Using the longer supplied screws, secure each of the caps by carefully aligning all of the holes. Tighten the screws until the caps are snug and don't vibrate, but don't tighten so much that you strip the holes.

-7) Install the top ramp.

a) Position the top plastic ramp back in place over the post and align the ramp flap holes. Insert and fully tighten the two top ramp flap screws, making sure that the heads rest below the metal flap.

b) Reposition the gate and insert the screw and tighten to secure the bottom part of the gate, then tighten the top nut of the gate.

c) Place the washer and nut back on the support post and tighten.

-8) Install the wire frame.

a) Insert the 2 wires into the support holes on the metal bracket attached to the upper ramp.

b) Place the bottom of the rap over the sling post but do not add nut back yet. Loop the zip tie over the center post to secure the wires, then insert the center post screw and tighten.

c) Place the washer and nut back onto the sling post, position the wire frame so that it is aligned with return lane, and tighten nut.

-9) Install the cow ramp.

a) Position the ramp in place and secure the 2 ramp flap screws fully. Again, make sure the heads of the screws sit below the metal ramp.

b) Insert and tighten the two post screws to secure the ramp.

ALL DONE! Turn the game back on, and enjoy your new PBL Brite Caps.

#7616 29 days ago

Great write up!
Definitely going to use the sock idea for lots stuff.

#7617 29 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Great write up!
Definitely going to use the sock idea for lots stuff.

Thanks, I was fortunate enough to notice before I did any damage. If you are not aware, I think it would be really easy to accidentally scratch things up pretty badly.

#7618 29 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

So, I've been asked about any pointers I might have when installing the Pinball Life EVO BriteCaps. Here is my best effort to document the process. Before starting I recommend placing a towel over the playfield to protect it.
-1) Remove the cow ramp by removing the 2 post screws and the 2 ramp flap screws. Be sure you use a screwdriver with the correct size head so as not to strip the ramp screws. When replacing the 2 ramp flap screws, make sure the heads are seated below the metal flap. You may have to use something thin and non-abrasive to "pop" the flap up over the head when you are re-installing.
[quoted image]
-2) Remove the right wire frame. Pay careful attention to the center mount screw as there will be a zip tie that will come loose from this. When re-installing, be sure to first put the ramp in position and slide the zip tie back over the post.
a) Remove the nut and washer from the right lower sling.
[quoted image]
b) Remove the screw from the center support.
[quoted image]
c) Carefully slide the two wires from where they are seated into the metal bracket attached to the top ramp. Note that you cannot fully remove the wireframe since wires are attached to it, but carefully set it out of the way and be careful not to scratch anything.
[quoted image]
-3) Loosen the top ramp so that you can maneuver it around enough to replace the pop caps You do not need to fully remove the top ramp, but if you do you will need to cut all of the zip ties off and disconnect cables - I highly suggest not doing this.
a) Remove the nut and washer from the post securing the top ramp above the 3 pop bumpers.
[quoted image]
b) Loosen the top gate nut and remove the lower gate screw securing to the plastic, then rotate the gate so as to access the ramp flap screws. Also, remove the 2 ramp flap screws as performed in step 1.
[quoted image]
c) THIS IS CRITICAL OR YOU WILL DAMAGE YOUR PLAYFIELD AND/OR CABINET | 1) Use a small bag or sock or something to wrap around the upper ramp flap. When maneuvering the ramp around you could scratch the playfield with the thin metal piece. 2) Do the same to cover the metal support bracket at the left of the top plastic ramp. This piece is sharp, and it will scratch your side blade/panel or even the top of your side rail as you maneuver it around.
[quoted image]
-4) Maneuver the top ramp so as to access removal of the 2 screws on one of the pop caps. You may have to hold it up or to the side (or have an assistant do it) to keep it out of the way depending upon which cap you are replacing. Be careful not to scratch the underside of it with a screwdriver or other tool while working to replace the caps.
a) Remove the two screws, and set them aside as you will be using the longer screws supplied with the BriteCaps to re-secure the caps after installation.
b) Remove the LED bulb.
c) Insert the new BriteCap module and orient it so that the screw holes line up with the holes in the housing, and the two small adjustment screws on top of the BriteCap are accessible (i.e. not covered up by the ramp to where you can't get to them).
d) Repeat the process for the other two pop caps.
-5) Turn the pin on in order to adjust the brightness of the outer rings and to set the inner rings to be solid or triggered by vibration. The document that comes with the caps will tell you which adjustment screw is which, or you just turn one to see what it controls. You'll need a fine tipped Philips screwdriver to turn these screws. You only need to turn slightly to achieve change, so don't over do it.
[quoted image]
a) Find which screw controls the out ring brightness. Turn this screw to adjust to desired brightness (I have mine at 100%). Perform this for all 3 caps, as you'll want them to be equally bright, I assume.
b) Turn the other screw to desired setting. If the inner ring is currently on, then it will always be on. If you want it off by default and triggered by vibration then turn the screw slightly until the inner ring goes off. When set to the off position, the inner ring will flash during vibration (i.e. when a ball activates its pop). When adjustments are completed, turn the game off.
-6) Using the longer supplied screws, secure each of the caps by carefully aligning all of the holes. Tighten the screws until the caps are snug and don't vibrate, but don't tighten so much that you strip the holes.
-7) Install the top ramp.
a) Position the top plastic ramp back in place over the post and align the ramp flap holes. Insert and fully tighten the two top ramp flap screws, making sure that the heads rest below the metal flap.
b) Reposition the gate and insert the screw and tighten to secure the bottom part of the gate, then tighten the top nut of the gate.
c) Place the washer and nut back on the support post and tighten.
-8) Install the wire frame.
a) Insert the 2 wires into the support holes on the metal bracket attached to the upper ramp.
b) Place the bottom of the rap over the sling post but do not add nut back yet. Loop the zip tie over the center post to secure the wires, then insert the center post screw and tighten.
c) Place the washer and nut back onto the sling post, position the wire frame so that it is aligned with return lane, and tighten nut.
-9) Install the cow ramp.
a) Position the ramp in place and secure the 2 ramp flap screws fully. Again, make sure the heads of the screws sit below the metal ramp.
b) Insert and tighten the two post screws to secure the ramp.
ALL DONE! Turn the game back on, and enjoy your new PBL Brite Caps.

Thanks, great step by step description. A little overwhelming.

#7619 29 days ago
Quoted from wolftownjeff:

Thanks, great step by step description. A little overwhelming.

You can do it, just learn from what I had to go through. Take your time and follow the process, and you'll do great. I wish I had someone walk me through it, but figured I'd try to help those who came after me since I had to figure things out on my own. BTW, if anyone else knows a better/easier way, then by all means please contribute to the conversation.

#7620 23 days ago

Just finishing installing all of my Cliffy protectors. Man, that is some serious work. Nothing overly complicated, but a lot of work and I spent a couple of hours doing it. Two key things I learned. First, I could not install both SOL Cliffy amp Mantis protectors. I could get them both to fit, but the mantis distorted the Cliffy where I could not get the lips to lay flat on the playfield. Therefore, I opted for the Cliffy’s. Second, you have to remove three posts to install all of the protectors. I saw where others couldn’t get the posts removed. All I had to do is remove the nut and washer from the underside, then use a hammer and punch tool to punch the post up through the bottom of the playfield.

Update: I played 2 games and got 3 balls hung up on the Cliffy's. The 3 target bank which I resolved by adjusting the default target depth, the backside of the SOL which I adjusted, and the outhole drain which I haven't done anything with. It seems like after installing the outhole drain one the edge of the Cliffy is not flush with the playfield. Not sure how I need to fix it as it was flush when installed, but when tightening the assembly underneath it pushes it up for some reason.

#7621 22 days ago

Do the remakes come with user manual and goodie bag? Didn't find any inside the cabinet.

#7622 22 days ago

Also where should the pitch bubble be placed? Whatever I do the bubble remains stuck to the top.

#7623 22 days ago
Quoted from pninja005:

Also where should the pitch bubble be placed? Whatever I do the bubble remains stuck to the top.

Check your manual, but this is the basics. NOTE: I don’t put much faith in the pitch bubble. I prefer using the Pinguy app on my phone to level my games. My technique is to start with the legs cranked up and then I lower as needed.
FED85EBC-8232-4BDE-A244-0819C318B2D2 (resized).png

#7624 22 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

So, I've been asked about any pointers I might have when installing the Pinball Life EVO BriteCaps. Here is my best effort to document the process. Before starting I recommend placing a towel over the playfield to protect it. BTW, this same process can be used to remove the pieces you need to replace the rings (I did have to cut the zip ties from the top ramp to get the access I needed however - no biggie, just took lots of pics beforehand and redid zip ties when putting it all back together).
-1) Remove the cow ramp by removing the 2 post screws and the 2 ramp flap screws. Be sure you use a screwdriver with the correct size head so as not to strip the ramp screws. When replacing the 2 ramp flap screws, make sure the heads are seated below the metal flap. You may have to use something thin and non-abrasive to "pop" the flap up over the head when you are re-installing.
[quoted image]
-2) Remove the right wire frame. Pay careful attention to the center mount screw as there will be a zip tie that will come loose from this. When re-installing, be sure to first put the ramp in position and slide the zip tie back over the post.
a) Remove the nut and washer from the right lower sling.
[quoted image]
b) Remove the screw from the center support.
[quoted image]
c) Carefully slide the two wires from where they are seated into the metal bracket attached to the top ramp. Note that you cannot fully remove the wireframe since wires are attached to it, but carefully set it out of the way and be careful not to scratch anything.
[quoted image]
-3) Loosen the top ramp so that you can maneuver it around enough to replace the pop caps You do not need to fully remove the top ramp, but if you do you will need to cut all of the zip ties off and disconnect cables - I highly suggest not doing this.
a) Remove the nut and washer from the post securing the top ramp above the 3 pop bumpers.
[quoted image]
b) Loosen the top gate nut and remove the lower gate screw securing to the plastic, then rotate the gate so as to access the ramp flap screws. Also, remove the 2 ramp flap screws as performed in step 1.
[quoted image]
c) THIS IS CRITICAL OR YOU WILL DAMAGE YOUR PLAYFIELD AND/OR CABINET | 1) Use a small bag or sock or something to wrap around the upper ramp flap. When maneuvering the ramp around you could scratch the playfield with the thin metal piece. 2) Do the same to cover the metal support bracket at the right of the top plastic ramp. This piece is sharp, and it will scratch your side blade/panel or even the top of your side rail as you maneuver it around.
[quoted image]
-4) Maneuver the top ramp so as to access removal of the 2 screws on one of the pop caps. You may have to hold it up or to the side (or have an assistant do it) to keep it out of the way depending upon which cap you are replacing. Be careful not to scratch the underside of it with a screwdriver or other tool while working to replace the caps.
a) Remove the two screws, and set them aside as you will be using the longer screws supplied with the BriteCaps to re-secure the caps after installation.
b) Remove the LED bulb.
c) Insert the new BriteCap module and orient it so that the screw holes line up with the holes in the housing, and the two small adjustment screws on top of the BriteCap are accessible (i.e. not covered up by the ramp to where you can't get to them).
d) Repeat the process for the other two pop caps.
-5) Turn the pin on in order to adjust the brightness of the outer rings and to set the inner rings to be solid or triggered by vibration. The document that comes with the caps will tell you which adjustment screw is which, or you just turn one to see what it controls. You'll need a fine tipped Philips screwdriver to turn these screws. You only need to turn slightly to achieve change, so don't over do it.
[quoted image]
a) Find which screw controls the out ring brightness. Turn this screw to adjust to desired brightness (I have mine at 100%). Perform this for all 3 caps, as you'll want them to be equally bright, I assume.
b) Turn the other screw to desired setting. If the inner ring is currently on, then it will always be on. If you want it off by default and triggered by vibration then turn the screw slightly until the inner ring goes off. When set to the off position, the inner ring will flash during vibration (i.e. when a ball activates its pop). When adjustments are completed, turn the game off.
-6) Using the longer supplied screws, secure each of the caps by carefully aligning all of the holes. Tighten the screws until the caps are snug and don't vibrate, but don't tighten so much that you strip the holes.
-7) Install the top ramp.
a) Position the top plastic ramp back in place over the post and align the ramp flap holes. Insert and fully tighten the two top ramp flap screws, making sure that the heads rest below the metal flap.
b) Reposition the gate and insert the screw and tighten to secure the bottom part of the gate, then tighten the top nut of the gate.
c) Place the washer and nut back on the support post and tighten.
-8) Install the wire frame.
a) Insert the 2 wires into the support holes on the metal bracket attached to the upper ramp.
b) Place the bottom of the rap over the sling post but do not add nut back yet. Loop the zip tie over the center post to secure the wires, then insert the center post screw and tighten.
c) Place the washer and nut back onto the sling post, position the wire frame so that it is aligned with return lane, and tighten nut.
-9) Install the cow ramp.
a) Position the ramp in place and secure the 2 ramp flap screws fully. Again, make sure the heads of the screws sit below the metal ramp.
b) Insert and tighten the two post screws to secure the ramp.
ALL DONE! Turn the game back on, and enjoy your new PBL Brite Caps.

Thanks for the write up, those look awesome! Question, the led’s under the caps are just normal leds? They aren’t boards or something? Also, I like the green in your sol hole.. could you show a pic of where that’s at?

#7625 22 days ago

I’d be tempted to replace the red caps w/ clear ones if they are available. I has em on my t2 and they looked awesome

#7626 22 days ago
Quoted from pninja005:

Also where should the pitch bubble be placed? Whatever I do the bubble remains stuck to the top.

I wouldn't rely on the plastic level on the game. Not always accurate.

This may help you :

http://www.pinballnews.com/learn/level/index.html

LTG : )

#7627 22 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

I wouldn't rely on the plastic level on the game. Not always accurate.
This may help you :
http://www.pinballnews.com/learn/level/index.html
LTG : )

Where can you buy the heavy duty levelers mentioned in the article? Everyone now sells the cheap levelors and that is what comes on new games. I used to get them from PBR but he no longer carries them.

#7628 22 days ago
Quoted from tilted81:

Thanks for the write up, those look awesome! Question, the led’s under the caps are just normal leds? They aren’t boards or something?

Thanks. Now that I've had them in, I think I want to take everything apart again and adjust the brightness on the outer ring (I have them cranked to max). Unfortunately, will take some effort on this game with everything that has to be removed, so I will probably be lazy for awhile and just live with it.

No, the LEDs are on a disk (i.e. round board) that has a fixed lead tab that plugs directly into the cap light socket. I've attached a pic, but this is an older setup - now the center ring adjustment is on top and is a screw. They have the color of your choice when ordering on the outer and inner rings on top, and cool white on the underside. IMO, clear caps would not look good with these as you would clearly see the board. Also, PBL does sell several different color caps with their lights ($3 extra per cap).

https://www.pinballlife.com/britecaps-evo-pop-bumper-lighting.html

bc_evo-4 (resized).jpg
pasted_image (resized).png

#7629 22 days ago
Quoted from tilted81:

Also, I like the green in your sol hole.. could you show a pic of where that’s at?

To light the SOL, I used a Comet Matrix 3 SMD strip and brightness controller. To tap into GI, I made a custom harness that pulls power from an existing connector and passes through to the same type of connector on one end to plug back onto a GI bulb, and a connector compatible with what the Comet Matrix lineup uses on the other end.

From the underside of the playfield I mounted the strip using the adhesive backing in the inside of the chute (backside) on the downslope near the bottom just above where it flattens.
EEFB7598-A468-4DF2-B593-F633BF878BC4.jpeg97E01A68-10FC-48B0-9338-479ED84D2729.jpeg4D41BD3E-7C44-43E8-A282-D8F3112A5E34.jpeg

#7631 22 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

IMO, clear caps would not look good with these

I put a similar setup on my DW recently.

I ordered transparent bodies well as transluscent bodies from Zitt.

You can test them with a battery on your workbench to see if you like either one before installation.

After testing, I went with the transluscent bodies.
20190920_183346 (resized).jpg

They light up the area beautifully and you cant see the wire.

You can also get colors.

#7632 21 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I put a similar setup on my DW recently.
I ordered transparent bodies well as transluscent bodies from Zitt.
You can test them with a battery on your workbench to see if you like either one before installation.
After testing, I went with the transluscent bodies.
[quoted image]
They light up the area beautifully and you cant see the wire.
You can also get colors.

Those look really nice on DW.

#7633 21 days ago

FYI, if anyone would like to order a wiring harness that lets you tap into the GI and connect a Comet Matrix cable, I will sell them for $10 for the first and $5 for each additional with shipping included. Just PM me with quantity for payment details.

#7634 21 days ago

So do they come with goodie bag and printed user manual?

#7635 21 days ago

Here is a pic of the wiring harness (pic is missing the included Z-connector which allows you to connect to an existing GI wire for power). This is not my original idea, and full credit goes to Gogdog for the idea and instructions he posted earlier in this thread. It would cost someone as much or more than what I'm charging to source the materials and build for themselves. However, I know that many guys would rather buy a readymade piece than to go to the effort of creating their own, so I thought I would make them available to anyone who might be interested.

I'm making them for $5 a piece and the first order has to cover packing materials and shipping cost (thus, the extra $5). I know what parts have to be ordered, how to make the pigtails, and test each one before I ship. These allow for anyone to simply add lighting mods without any physical modifications to their pin (i.e. they are fully reversible, and do not require modifying the existing wiring whatsoever.
harness.jpg

#7638 21 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

If you are asking me, a simple picture should do the trick showing the connections (pic is missing the included Z-connector which allows you to connect to an existing GI wire for power). This is not my original idea, and full credit goes to Gogdog for the idea and instructions he posted earlier in this thread. It would cost someone as much or more than what I'm charging to source the materials and build for themselves. However, I know that many guys would rather buy a readymade piece than to go to the effort of creating their own, so I thought I would make them available to anyone who might be interested.
I'm making them for $5 a piece and the first order has to cover packing materials and shipping cost (thus, the extra $5). I know what parts have to be ordered, how to make the pigtails, and test each one before I ship. These allow for anyone to simply add lighting mods without any physical modifications to their pin (i.e. they are fully reversible, and do not require modifying the existing wiring whatsoever.
[quoted image]

Just to clarify....it wasn't my idea either. I just copied the mezelmods connector when I made my own.

#7639 21 days ago

Thanks for the link, as I didn't realize Mezel sold them. Quite honestly, these aren't fun to make (can't tell you how many times I've nearly punctured my fingers), but I wanted to make them available for those seeking to do their own simple and low-cost lighting mods (scoop lighting, backboard lighting, trough lighting, etc.)

#7640 21 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Thanks for the link, as I didn't realize Mezel sold them. Quite honestly, these aren't fun to make (can't tell you how many times I've nearly punctured my fingers), but I wanted to make them available for those seeking to do their own mods.

I applaud people who can do it themselves (and for wanting to help others) and am always happy to help diyers if people ask. In fact, this is how we power some of our afmr mods. It just seemed odd to resell the harness when mezel already sells them and their harness was used as the guide by gogdog to make it originally.

By the way, those z connectors are now very hard to find as pancon has gone out of business. Either another company will have to buy the mold or we (the community) are going to have to make them. I may try to print them when I run out.

#7641 21 days ago

So apparently goodie bag and user manual only comes with SE and LE, not CE. Lame.

#7642 21 days ago
Quoted from Lermods:

It just seemed odd to resell the harness when mezel already sells them and their harness was used as the guide by gogdog to make it originally.

I didn't realize Mezel sold them individually apart from combined with their mods, or I would have just bought mine from them and pointed people to their site. I searched everywhere I could before I decided to order all of the components to make my own, but somehow didn't come across Mezel's.

I've created and sold all kinds of mods for older pins and typically just tied in lighting using Comet Matrix components and their alligator clips to hook onto a GI socket. However, AFMr is my first modern pin, and it required a different solution. I haven't really seen any posts in this thread before about these being available anywhere (just Gogdog's post about making them), so my intention was to make a ready-to-us harness available to the group that I didn't think was publicly available elsewhere.

As far as the components go to make the harnesses, if anyone desires to build their own here is where I sourced everything:

- MTA-100 feed thru headers: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/571-3-640620-4
- JST 2 power connectors (male): https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/713-321050009
- 0.1" feedthru Z-connectors: https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MWWS100-2236 (you cut/snap these to the desired pin count - 4 pins in this case)

I don't have any kind of punch tool, so I use a narrow flathead screwdriver to punch the wiring onto the feed thru header. This process is a little precarious, and where I've nearly punched holes through my hands a few times when things slip.

#7643 21 days ago
Quoted from pninja005:

So apparently goodie bag and user manual only comes with SE and LE, not CE. Lame.

Not true. My CE came with a manual.

And a small goodie bag, I think it only included a key fob and maybe a flipper spacer tool.

#7644 21 days ago
Quoted from Fizz:

Not true. My CE came with a manual.
And a small goodie bag, I think it only included a key fob and maybe a flipper spacer tool.

Same.

#7645 21 days ago

I don't mind being downvoted for opinion posts, but what is wrong with my DIY SOL lighting mod wackybrakke? Did I not explain or show something clearly regarding the mod? I'd like to resolve whatever the issue may be.

#7646 21 days ago

hmm.. double thank you.

#7647 21 days ago

Just finished v2 of my building mod. In this one, I tried to add cracks to the windows using a tested process where I actually have a waterslide decal embedded between printed layers of the clear plastic. What I learned is that it works, but my cracks need to be a lighter gray instead of black (this will be v3). I also added a couple of blast craters on the roof (front left and back right), and I reworked the inside light mounting to better diffuse the fire LEDs (I had to make it 1 cm taller to accommodate).
IMG_2944.JPGIMG_2945.JPG

Version 2
EAE.gif

Version 1 for Reference
old.gif

#7648 21 days ago

Is your eat at eddys building actually purple or the uv lighting effect? Can you take a pic of it without the playfield lit up?

#7649 21 days ago
Quoted from shovelhed:

Is your eat at eddys building actually purple or the uv lighting effect? Can you take a pic of it without the playfield lit up?

That is the ambient lighting. It is a marble white (has a light gray appearance). See this post: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/attack-from-mars-remake-afmr-owners-club/page/152#post-5254006

#7650 20 days ago

Second time with AFM is a charm.

55BBE0A9-7089-424E-84A3-E4584A808B31 (resized).jpegE82CC4B4-53C9-4592-8DF3-BAA68FFF3D66 (resized).jpeg
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