(Topic ID: 192072)

Attack From Mars Remake (AFMr) Owners Club

By Pin_Guy

6 years ago


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  • 10,558 posts
  • 720 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by Lethal_Inc
  • Topic is favorited by 334 Pinsiders

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26 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 10,558 posts in this topic. You are on page 150 of 212.
#7451 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Thanks for your perspective. I've played Titans on both of my other pins since I've owned them, and personally really like the look and the feel.

Same for me. Every game in my collection has Titans and I have no dead feel. So far I haven't replaced any of them for damage or splitting. I think for home use they hold up as well as any other replacement rubber. Can't beat the color choices and top notch service!

#7452 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Titans play dead IMO. I'd use the glow-in-the-dark for accents like posts if you want, but Marco white is the way to go for the rubber. Lots more ball action. Marco is the only white rubber worth using. Everything else I've used falls short, and some are AWFUL.
I'd also have a look at the animated EL art blades from pingraffix. Really cool finishing move to the inside of the cabinet.

That's interesting to know. I've always thought the Titans were rather bouncy - but the rubber I compared it to might have been beat to death.

I put Titans on the lower PF of AC/DC and thought they were a little too active and was going to switch back to rubber. But your comment will make me think about that...

Recently, I've liked the translucent Titans in the right places. Adds a nice touch if you don't over do it. But I don't think it would be a good fit for AFMr

#7453 4 years ago

I initially had transparent with red posts on my getaway then switched to clear posts and red rings which looked much better. I have yellow on my DE Jurassic Park, I they look great.

Anyway, didn’t mean to turn this into a silicone vs. rubber conversation. Everyone go shoot down some Martian ships, and I guarantee you’ll feel good about whatever kind of rings you have installed.

#7454 4 years ago

I love conversations like this. It gives me another excuse to use when my AFMr is kicking my ass. Which is every day.

#7455 4 years ago

Is CGC going to ever update the color screen ROM so the EXTRA BALL award for score/special isn't in black and white? The "regular" extra ball award (where the alien is hit in the head) is colorized, just not this one.

#7456 4 years ago

Has anyone added the cpr mirrored back glass? If so do you have before and after pics?

#7457 4 years ago

Titans just suck the life and feel out of a game. However, you don't need to go white in all cases. I either put white or black on depending on what was original and it's more than sufficient. Keeping it original helps it play better too, just go with what the game was designed for.

Quoted from PinMonk:

If that's the case, you will be shocked at how the machine comes alive with Marco's white rubber.
Titans LOOK great, easy to clean, but play dead. Worse than black rubber for ball action, IMO.

#7458 4 years ago

So, I turned on afmr and the balls don’t kick out? It just sits there. I tired reseating the connectors in the trough, but that didn’t do anything. Any ideas? Thank you.

#7459 4 years ago
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:

So, I turned on afmr and the balls don’t kick out? It just sits there. I tired reseating the connectors in the trough, but that didn’t do anything. Any ideas? Thank you.

check fuses behind the back glass.

#7460 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

If that's the case, you will be shocked at how the machine comes alive with Marco's white rubber.
Titans LOOK great, easy to clean, but play dead. Worse than black rubber for ball action, IMO.

So Marco's white plays different from Marco's black? Is this the PRW stuff?

#7461 4 years ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

check fuses behind the back glass.

LED next to them shows fuse is good if on and bad if not lit.

If not a fuse in the back box, then check connectors on high power interlock switch on the left inside of the coin door.

LTG : )

#7462 4 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

LED next to them shows fuse is good if on and bad if not lit.

In particular fuse F103 on the driver board. Page 1-60 in the manual.

LTG : )

#7463 4 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

In particular fuse F103 on the driver board.

The one on the bottom right the red arrow is pointing to.

LTG : )

AFMRDBoard (resized).JPGAFMRDBoard (resized).JPG
#7464 4 years ago

Look what found its way to my house today. More pics to come when I get it unpacked and setup.

IMG_2824 (resized).JPGIMG_2824 (resized).JPG
#7465 4 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

The one on the bottom right the red arrow is pointing to.
LTG : )[quoted image]

So, all three of the green lights in the lower corner are out? Seems strange that all three fuses would be bad? No? I will test them now.

#7466 4 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

The one on the bottom right the red arrow is pointing to.
LTG : )[quoted image]

So, I tested the three fuses and they are all working. However, the three green lights are not on? You also mentioned the high power switch inside the coin door? How do I check that? Thank you!!

#7467 4 years ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

So Marco's white plays different from Marco's black? Is this the PRW stuff?

PRW plays slightly different than STC (Suzo trading company).

Maybe PRW lasts slightly longer?

They seem similar to me. Maybe STC a little bouncier?

#7468 4 years ago
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:

So, I tested the three fuses and they are all working. However, the three green lights are not on? You also mentioned the high power switch inside the coin door? How do I check that? Thank you!!

Pull out the white dented switch post slightly.

Its possible that the coindoor switch bracket needs adjustment, fell off etc...

#7469 4 years ago
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:

However, the three green lights are not on?

Check the other fuses on the board, you may need to pull them, I'm not sure they all have LEDs, check F108 first.

Quoted from Jimmyhonda:

You also mentioned the high power switch inside the coin door? How do I check that?

Game turned on, coin door open, pull out the knob on the top white switch ( bottom one is memory protect ) see if things work then. If so the coin door isn't depressing it enough, if not, then check that the connectors on that switch are all on tight.

LTG : )

#7470 4 years ago

That was it. Thank you so much!

#7471 4 years ago

It’s a beauty! LE #363 in perfect condition with 80 plays on it. Seller was an awesome guy, and he let me play the games I wanted in his collection, including the new Jurassic Park LE, Monster Bash Remake LE, and Black Knight LE - all 3 were awesome, as well as the rest of his collection.

I’m waiting for all my upgrades to arrive, so I can do everything at once. Even so, this pin is a stunning out of the box.

90C3E119-746F-445A-BF7A-CE417BB5C6F0.jpeg90C3E119-746F-445A-BF7A-CE417BB5C6F0.jpegAF68643E-7CA3-4BBD-9B09-4FDD78977C90.jpegAF68643E-7CA3-4BBD-9B09-4FDD78977C90.jpeg285A95F1-81A9-4029-82D6-41CC2A6D047F.jpeg285A95F1-81A9-4029-82D6-41CC2A6D047F.jpeg

#7472 4 years ago
Quoted from jalpert:

I either put white or black on depending on what was original and it's more than sufficient. Keeping it original helps it play better too, just go with what the game was designed for.

To each their own. I hate black rubber, not only does it play dead.. as it breaks down it dusts everywhere and leaves your game looking like shit. I like the bounce and look of silicone.

#7473 4 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

( bottom one is memory protect )
LTG : )

Just curious, what does the memory protect switch do?

#7474 4 years ago
Quoted from Fizz:

what does the memory protect switch do?

Protects memory.

HaHa. I kill me.

It only allows changes in the Williams settings, adjustments, etc. when the coin door is open, so you know what you are doing. If you had the game on, coin door closed, and were messing around under the playfield, you could accidentally make changes you didn't realize.

LTG : )

#7475 4 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Protects memory.
HaHa. I kill me.
It only allows changes in the Williams settings, adjustments, etc. when the coin door is open, so you know what you are doing. If you had the game on, coin door closed, and were messing around under the playfield, you could accidentally make changes you didn't realize.
LTG : )

Lol, I was thinking "protects memory" when I wrote the question.

Thanks for the answer, it makes s lot of sense!

#7476 4 years ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

So Marco's white plays different from Marco's black? Is this the PRW stuff?

White is ALWAYS bouncier than black. Has something to do with the way it's made. There's a marked (ha!) difference between white and black. Of all the white I've tried, Marco's is the best. No one elses even comes close.

#7477 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

White is ALWAYS bouncier than black. Has something to do with the way it's made. There's a marked (ha!) difference between white and black. Of all the white I've tried, Marco's is the best. No one elses even comes close.

All the colors have a different durometer rating.

#7478 4 years ago

not sure I want a huge amount of bounce and white will look terrible on AFMR. will order some and give it a go.

#7479 4 years ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

not sure I want a huge amount of bounce and white will look terrible on AFMR. will order some and give it a go.

White looks great on AfMr, but it doesn't really matter because there's barely any rubber on that machine anyway. White rubber with red posts looks really good.
afmr-white (resized).jpgafmr-white (resized).jpg
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#7480 4 years ago

So, I'm really on the fence about adding Pin Stadium lights, mainly due to the cost of the mod. For those of you who have them, I was wondering what your thoughts are once you've owned them for awhile and played several games. How might you persuade met to go for it, or do you regret your decision in any way? I've seen every post related to Pin Stadium in this thread, but they are somewhat limited and I know that photos probably don't do the lighting justice. Also, I'm sure everyone posted when they first installed the lights, and opinions may have changed as time passes.

My main desires are as follows:

- General better illumination of the middle of the playfield
- General better illumination of the back of the playfield
- Making the UV reactive inks on the playfield pop/glow (e.g. the green saucers, et. al.) - this would also be good for my Titan glow rings.

Also, have any of you purchased them at shows, and was there any kind of discount for doing so other than saving shipping? If I decide to buy them, I'm not sure I can wait until TPF 2020, but depends on if they offer a significant discount.

#7481 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

So, I'm really on the fence about adding Pin Stadium lights, mainly due to the cost of the mod. For those of you who have them, I was wondering what your thoughts are once you've owned them for awhile and played several games. How might you persuade met to go for it, or do you regret your decision in any way? I've seen every post related to Pin Stadium in this thread, but they are somewhat limited and I know that photos probably don't do the lighting justice. Also, I'm sure everyone posted when they first installed the lights, and opinions may have changed as time passes.
My main desires are as follows:
- General better illumination of the middle of the playfield
- General better illumination of the back of the playfield
- Making the UV reactive inks on the playfield pop/glow (e.g. the green saucers, et. al.) - this would also be good for my Titan glow rings.
Also, have any of you purchased them at shows, and was there any kind of discount for doing so other than saving shipping? If I decide to buy them, I'm not sure I can wait until TPF 2020, but depends on if they offer a significant discount.

I can’t say enough good things about pinstadiums on my AFMR. You can truly appreciate the art work because you can see the Playfield much better. The UV glow flashers really make it glow too. I would go for it. Occasionally they have show specials but not very often. I will send before and after pics. The fluorescent green plastic protectors are a great touch. Check them out on my pics.

#7482 4 years ago

You can adjust the GI brightness and color as well.

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#7483 4 years ago
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:

You can adjust the GI brightness and color as well.[quoted image][quoted image]

So, they don't turn the game purple do they (I don't want to end up in the color puke thread)? Seriously, does the mix of UV and white eliminate the "purpleization" while also giving a nice glow to the UV elements?

#7484 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

So, they don't turn the game purple do they (I don't want to end up in the color puke thread)? Seriously, does the mix of UV and white eliminate the "purpleization" while also giving a nice glow to the UV elements?

The UV is tied to a flasher, so it is only on when that particular flasher is active. I have mine tied into the flasher in the big saucer. It is pretty intense.

#7485 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

So, they don't turn the game purple do they (I don't want to end up in the color puke thread)? Seriously, does the mix of UV and white eliminate the "purpleization" while also giving a nice glow to the UV elements?

It looks amazing. No color puke at all. That’s about all I can say. Go for it!

#7486 4 years ago
Quoted from rrosenhouse:

The UV is tied to a flasher, so it is only on when that particular flasher is active. I have mine tied into the flasher in the big saucer. It is pretty intense.

Do you have a video you can share? If you don't want to post publically, I can PM and give you my email.

#7487 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

All the colors have a different durometer rating.

Years ago white was 5% softer than black.

These days, with so many different sources. It's all over the map. Softer, harder, bouncier, it's a crap shoot. Even different batches from the same source can be different.

LTG : )

#7488 4 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Years ago white was 5% softer than black.
These days, with so many different sources. It's all over the map. Softer, harder, bouncier, it's a crap shoot. Even different batches from the same source can be different.
LTG : )

That why I've stuck with Marco's white. Very consistent from order to order, and always great. There's some REALLY BAD white rubber out there that isn't bouncy and also breaks really easily. No names, but basically everyone I've tried except Marco. I don't know how many babies Marco has had to sacrifice to achieve this voodoo, but they have the white rubber secret sauce locked down, IMO.

#7489 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Do you have a video you can share? If you don't want to post publically, I can PM and give you my email.

Destroying the saucer with my Pinstadium UV flashers connected to the mother saucer flasher. Not sure why things come across so red at the end of the video. Hope this gives you some idea of what to expect.

#7490 4 years ago
Quoted from rrosenhouse:

Destroying the saucer with my Pinstadium UV flashers connected to the mother saucer flasher. Not sure why things come across so red at the end of the video. Hope this gives you some idea of what to expect.

Okay, that's pretty awesome.

#7491 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Okay, that's pretty awesome.

Thanks. BTW - that video was taken with no lights on in the gameroom. All the light you see is from the game's GI and the Pinstadium lights.

#7492 4 years ago
Quoted from rrosenhouse:

Destroying the saucer with my Pinstadium UV flashers connected to the mother saucer flasher. Not sure why things come across so red at the end of the video. Hope this gives you some idea of what to expect.

Hmmm...That is rather nice.

#7493 4 years ago

Does anyone else have a slight bounce from lane guide to flipper? I've tried both lining up according to the holes in the playfield (my preferred method), and lane guides. It's much smoother, but still has a slight bounce when there's a slow roller. Maybe thicker flipper rubber would work?

#7494 4 years ago
Quoted from maffewl:

Does anyone else have a slight bounce from lane guide to flipper? I've tried both lining up according to the holes in the playfield (my preferred method), and lane guides. It's much smoother, but still has a slight bounce when there's a slow roller. Maybe thicker flipper rubber would work?

My JP2 does that and it drives me nuts. Sometimes repositioning the flippers will help.

#7495 4 years ago

So, after playing several games of my new AFMr LE (which I love), I just happened to notice that I have a set of plastics with the crackling artwork. I submitted a ticket and received a prompt reply that cosmetic issues are only warrantied to the original owner within two weeks of purchase (which has obviously lapsed) and that I would need to buy a replacement set from Planetary Pinball. I found the set here: http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-31-2535-COMP for $139 plus shipping, but had some questions from those of you who had to do the same.

Are these plastics truly OEM or are they remakes? The tiny picture doesn't do the coloring justice and there is no other info on the site about them. I'm bummed a little at having to spend the money if I want perfect condition ones (the ball returns are really the only 2 that are bugging me), but I want to make sure that I'm getting OEM quality and coloring.

1.jpg1.jpg
#7496 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

So, after playing several games of my new AFMr LE (which I love), I just happened to notice that I have a set of plastics with the crackling artwork. I submitted a ticket and received a prompt reply that cosmetic issues are only warrantied to the original owner within two weeks of purchase (which has obviously lapsed) and that I would need to buy a replacement set from Planetary Pinball. I found the set here: http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-31-2535-COMP for $139 plus shipping, but had some questions from those of you who had to do the same.
Are these plastics truly OEM or are they remakes? The tiny picture doesn't do the coloring justice and there is no other info on the site about them. I'm bummed a little at having to spend the money if I want perfect condition ones (the ball returns are really the only 2 that are bugging me), but I want to make sure that I'm getting OEM quality and coloring.[quoted image]

If you end up purchasing, I'd buy the saucer plastics (left and right of the scoop) from you if you don't need them.

#7497 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

So, after playing several games of my new AFMr LE (which I love), I just happened to notice that I have a set of plastics with the crackling artwork. I submitted a ticket and received a prompt reply that cosmetic issues are only warrantied to the original owner within two weeks of purchase (which has obviously lapsed) and that I would need to buy a replacement set from Planetary Pinball. I found the set here: http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-31-2535-COMP for $139 plus shipping, but had some questions from those of you who had to do the same.
Are these plastics truly OEM or are they remakes? The tiny picture doesn't do the coloring justice and there is no other info on the site about them. I'm bummed a little at having to spend the money if I want perfect condition ones (the ball returns are really the only 2 that are bugging me), but I want to make sure that I'm getting OEM quality and coloring.[quoted image]

The new plastics are the exact OEM replacements.

PPS is the license holder of the game. All parts from Rick will be exact replacements.

#7498 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

The new plastics are the exact OEM replacements.
PPS is the license holder of the game. All parts from Rick will be exact replacements.

Thank you for the info. I'm going to consider it but not pull the trigger yet. There are minor issues with some of the other plastics (I've not looked closely at everything), but the lane returns are most noticeable. Of course the close-up camera shot does exaggerate the issue some.

Quoted from maffewl:

If you end up purchasing, I'd buy the saucer plastics (left and right of the scoop) from you if you don't need them.

If/when I decide to replace them, you have first right of refusal on my saucer plastics.

#7499 4 years ago
Quoted from rrosenhouse:

Destroying the saucer with my Pinstadium UV flashers connected to the mother saucer flasher. Not sure why things come across so red at the end of the video. Hope this gives you some idea of what to expect.

Do the pinstadiums turn off for strobe multiball?

#7500 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

So, after playing several games of my new AFMr LE (which I love), I just happened to notice that I have a set of plastics with the crackling artwork. I submitted a ticket and received a prompt reply that cosmetic issues are only warrantied to the original owner within two weeks of purchase (which has obviously lapsed) and that I would need to buy a replacement set from Planetary Pinball. I found the set here: http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-31-2535-COMP for $139 plus shipping, but had some questions from those of you who had to do the same.
Are these plastics truly OEM or are they remakes? The tiny picture doesn't do the coloring justice and there is no other info on the site about them. I'm bummed a little at having to spend the money if I want perfect condition ones (the ball returns are really the only 2 that are bugging me), but I want to make sure that I'm getting OEM quality and coloring.[quoted image]

Wow, that sucks. It's DEFINITELY their problem, and it's not a cosmetic issue that would have manifested within two weeks of manufacture. It's a factory defect of using the wrong ink on the PET-G plastic, causing a reaction where the ink appears to crackles OVER TIME as it pulls away from the plastic. This problem didn't begin to show itself for MONTHS (almost a year in our case), which is normal for this kind of defect. They were kind enough to replace the ones we had, even though this one was second-owner.

Sucks that they're blowing the issue off now and making you pay for their defect.

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