(Topic ID: 192072)

Attack From Mars Remake (AFMr) Owners Club

By Pin_Guy

6 years ago


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  • 719 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 46 hours ago by Mr_Tantrum
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#7401 4 years ago
Quoted from atrainn:

4 balls. As for your bulb question, AFM just uses faceted bulbs, so these from comet should work, not sure if there was anything special about what Nifty made: https://www.cometpinball.com/products/faceted-non-ghosting

Actually, the NiftyLED bulbs were unique in that the housing used is proprietary. Comet does not and will not ever make these (I've had firsthand discussions with them). What I don't know since I don't possess the game yet, is if you can somehow Frankenstein a third party LED into the existing GI LED housings or if it is a closed unit.

#7402 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Actually, the NiftyLED bulbs were unique in that the housing used is proprietary. Comet does not and will not ever make these (I've had firsthand discussions with them). What I don't know since I don't possess the game yet, is if you can somehow Frankenstein a third party LED into the existing GI LED housings or if it is a closed unit.

Wait a minute. I haven't had to replace an actual bulb yet in afmr. Are you saying I can't use standard Wedge (555) bulbs that I can get from most anywhere?

#7403 4 years ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Are you saying I can't use standard Wedge (555) bulbs that I can get from most anywhere?

Yes.

LTG : )

#7404 4 years ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

Wife decided to toss me out to the curb on day two of owning...that will probably take me awhile to beat.[quoted image]

Set it to ten balls when she’s not home

#7405 4 years ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Wait a minute. I haven't had to replace an actual bulb yet in afmr. Are you saying I can't use standard Wedge (555) bulbs that I can get from most anywhere?

Correct, you cannot use standard bulbs in the GI since it takes these things.

nifty.jpgnifty.jpg
#7406 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Correct, you cannot use standard bulbs in the GI since it takes these things.[quoted image]

Oh crap...I guess ignorance is really bliss. I had no idea since I haven't had the need to change one. Where does Chicago expect us to get replacements then if niftyled isn't selling these? Does MBr also using these types of bulbs?

#7407 4 years ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Oh crap...I guess ignorance is really bliss. I had no idea since I haven't had the need to change one. Where does Chicago expect us to get replacements then if niftyled isn't selling these? Does MBr also using these types of bulbs?

I've had to replace one, and they aren't cheap.

That said, if supply dries up for some reason (or you just don't want to buy them), I would think that the GI can always be replaced with standard sockets, cut the existing Molex connector off, and solder in the common socket. From what I can tell, there isn't anything special about these LEDs other than their connectors. They are standard faceted lens LEDs.

#7408 4 years ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Yep...I went through the same thing when I wanted to do my own trough light kit. (I wanted to learn how to soder/do own mods and save money by DIY vs buying a kit).
I added a trough light to a IMDN, DI, and AFMr….and each one required different ways to do it.
For attack from mars...its .100 IDC connectors.
I mean, you could just buy the IDC assembly from mezelmods ->
https://mezelmods.com/collections/diy/products/4-pin-100-idc-assembly
But for DIY...here was my setup ->
[quoted image]
and most of the parts ->
[quoted image]
So the order is ->
1. 7 SMD led strip from comet
2. Comet matrix brightness adjuster
3. JST 2.0 connectors from aliexpress (something like this https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32848166904.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.2e874c4dLct124)
4. 22 gauge wire
5. .100 IDC connectors from digikey. (https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/3-640620-4/A31090-ND/698308?utm_medium=email&utm_source=oce&utm_campaign=2452_OCE18RT&utm_content=productdetail_US&utm_cid=707689&so=57863092&mkt_tok=eyJpIjoiWmpBMll6TXdOekkxTTJVeiIsInQiOiI0RHUzUnB3Vm52V290dzZxR1JjNFJDNjBkclowRHRYTW5SSkxRT29oVkorSTZsZkNKWk5KOE5UWjkzVng3MUFUT29odFQ3OWx6UUlzeUg4ZkUyTXRxT1Q4VFArUkttWU1vaTFzSTA0elM4V2ZsdEVpMTl5NW9LMnN5bDBGTnAxQiJ9)
6. .100 IDC z-connector. I bet this strip of z-connectors are at digikey somewhere...but I couldn't find them. I had to buy a strip of z-connectors from mezelmods for $4. They aren't listed on their shop...I think I had to contact them directly to ask to buy it. You don't HAVE to buy a z-connector...you could just splice all the wires together, but I wanted to keep it completely removable.

After researching, I can get the JST 2.0 connectors and the Feed Thru Wire Housing from Mouser (fairly local to me). I'm still trying to figure out that blasted 4 pin Z-connector (some look like they are homemade). I have a PM to somebody that sells mods with those included to see if they will share a part number & source with me.

I assume for your Z-connector you just broke off a 4 pin section as you needed it? Also, do you really need the brightness adjuster or is that just a nice to have in case you want to tweak?

#7409 4 years ago

In preparation for my soon to be AFMr, I've designed a keychain for the coin door key to match others I offer for a variety of pins. Keychains are square transparent acrylic with the photo size approximately 1.25" square. If anyone is interested in purchasing one please PM me. I sell them for $12 for the first keychain plus $5 each for the next 5 if ordering multiples. Pricing includes US shipping, and I'm happy to custom design for any pin.
KC_AFMr.jpgKC_AFMr.jpg

IMG_2801.JPGIMG_2801.JPG
#7410 4 years ago
Quoted from GamerRick:

Set it to ten balls when she’s not home

Heck no...I'm taking the glass off and tripping the switches by hand!

#7411 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Actually, the NiftyLED bulbs were unique in that the housing used is proprietary. Comet does not and will not ever make these (I've had firsthand discussions with them). What I don't know since I don't possess the game yet, is if you can somehow Frankenstein a third party LED into the existing GI LED housings or if it is a closed unit.

Quoted from maffewl:

I've had to replace one, and they aren't cheap.
That said, if supply dries up for some reason (or you just don't want to buy them), I would think that the GI can always be replaced with standard sockets, cut the existing Molex connector off, and solder in the common socket. From what I can tell, there isn't anything special about these LEDs other than their connectors. They are standard faceted lens LEDs.

Might be a good application for a 3D print, no?

#7412 4 years ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

Might be a good application for a 3D print, no?

Small piece, but maybe. I'm more concerned with how the pins and wiring are done. Might be easier to hack an existing socket.

#7413 4 years ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Oh crap...I guess ignorance is really bliss. I had no idea since I haven't had the need to change one. Where does Chicago expect us to get replacements then if niftyled isn't selling these? Does MBr also using these types of bulbs?

Also, if you are just needing to buy replacements, you can get them from PlanetaryPinball. Link below.

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-LMP-GILEDWW

#7414 4 years ago
Quoted from maffewl:

Also, if you are just needing to buy replacements, you can get them from PlanetaryPinball. Link below.
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-LMP-GILEDWW

Wow, they are proud of those. I was hoping to possibly convert to cool white, but even if they had them it would be over $100.

#7415 4 years ago
Quoted from CGC-Ryan:

Please open a help desk ticket with Chicago Gaming Company and we will be glad to help you find out what the problem is, and get your game back up playing 100%.
You can open your ticket here: https://www.chicago-gaming.com/support/helpdesk
Ryan

Thank you very much for your time and response. I have not entered a ticket because I am not even sure how to properly describe the problem or what could possibly be done about it. Seems like a software bug and I already have 1.01 firmware installed. Don't want to waste anyone's time, but I appreciate the offer to help!

#7416 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

After researching, I can get the JST 2.0 connectors and the Feed Thru Wire Housing from Mouser (fairly local to me). I'm still trying to figure out that blasted 4 pin Z-connector (some look like they are homemade). I have a PM to somebody that sells mods with those included to see if they will share a part number & source with me.
I assume for your Z-connector you just broke off a 4 pin section as you needed it? Also, do you really need the brightness adjuster or is that just a nice to have in case you want to tweak?

Ooooh...yeah, if you can find out the actual source of those zconnectors, that would be awesome. I'm sure they are called something else in the electronics industry besides z-connectors.

And yeah, you just break off however much you need at a time...2,4,6 pin, etc.

And no, you don't need the brightness adjuster. I bought them because I didn't know exactly how much a 7 smd would throw, or maybe a 5 smd wasn't going to be enough...etc. Easier to adjust down from a 7. Which...I believe I did (the 7 was too bright full power). I would probably still recommend though if you have to buy a led strip from comet anyway.

#7417 4 years ago

Friend of mine wants to get the CE. Not for the price difference but to stay as close as possible to the original.

I recommend him to take the SE. Am I wrong?

#7418 4 years ago
Quoted from pninja005:

Friend of mine wants to get the CE. Not for the price difference but to stay as close as possible to the original.
I recommend him to take the SE. Am I wrong?

Yes, you are wrong. Have him get an HUO LE for similar money. The only right answer. The topper design and interactivity makes it the best topper ever done thus far.

#7419 4 years ago
Quoted from pninja005:

Friend of mine wants to get the CE. Not for the price difference but to stay as close as possible to the original.
I recommend him to take the SE. Am I wrong?

Topper is the only reason to get an le. I’m not interested in the topper and went with the SE, which gives you the big screen, speaker lights and better playfield lighting. The CE is a stripped down game, but is the closest to the original.

#7420 4 years ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Ooooh...yeah, if you can find out the actual source of those zconnectors, that would be awesome. I'm sure they are called something else in the electronics industry besides z-connectors.
And yeah, you just break off however much you need at a time...2,4,6 pin, etc.
And no, you don't need the brightness adjuster. I bought them because I didn't know exactly how much a 7 smd would throw, or maybe a 5 smd wasn't going to be enough...etc. Easier to adjust down from a 7. Which...I believe I did (the 7 was too bright full power). I would probably still recommend though if you have to buy a led strip from comet anyway.

I usually end up just cutting SMDs off the strip to change intensity - but that is a non-reversible action.

Also, Eric from Pinduino pointed me to these: https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MWWS100-2236

#7421 4 years ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Yep...I went through the same thing when I wanted to do my own trough light kit. (I wanted to learn how to soder/do own mods and save money by DIY vs buying a kit).
I added a trough light to a IMDN, DI, and AFMr….and each one required different ways to do it.
For attack from mars...its .100 IDC connectors.
I mean, you could just buy the IDC assembly from mezelmods ->
https://mezelmods.com/collections/diy/products/4-pin-100-idc-assembly
But for DIY...here was my setup ->
[quoted image]
and most of the parts ->
[quoted image]
So the order is ->
1. 7 SMD led strip from comet
2. Comet matrix brightness adjuster
3. JST 2.0 connectors from aliexpress (something like this https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32848166904.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.2e874c4dLct124)
4. 22 gauge wire
5. .100 IDC connectors from digikey. (https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/3-640620-4/A31090-ND/698308?utm_medium=email&utm_source=oce&utm_campaign=2452_OCE18RT&utm_content=productdetail_US&utm_cid=707689&so=57863092&mkt_tok=eyJpIjoiWmpBMll6TXdOekkxTTJVeiIsInQiOiI0RHUzUnB3Vm52V290dzZxR1JjNFJDNjBkclowRHRYTW5SSkxRT29oVkorSTZsZkNKWk5KOE5UWjkzVng3MUFUT29odFQ3OWx6UUlzeUg4ZkUyTXRxT1Q4VFArUkttWU1vaTFzSTA0elM4V2ZsdEVpMTl5NW9LMnN5bDBGTnAxQiJ9)
6. .100 IDC z-connector. I bet this strip of z-connectors are at digikey somewhere...but I couldn't find them. I had to buy a strip of z-connectors from mezelmods for $4. They aren't listed on their shop...I think I had to contact them directly to ask to buy it. You don't HAVE to buy a z-connector...you could just splice all the wires together, but I wanted to keep it completely removable.

Based upon your recommendations, I believe these components should do the trick (minus the Comet stuff):

- Feed Thru Wire Housing | https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/571-3-640620-4
- JST 2 Pin Power Connector | https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/713-321050009
- Feed Thru Z Connector (32 pin designed to be cut to size) | https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MWWS100-2236

Also, instead of buying wire, I'm just going to make my harnesses short (the length of the JST 2 cable) and then use the Comet Matrix extensions to route to where my add-on lighting mods will be.

Just got my parts ordered - now my disappointment of not being able to do add-on lighting has turned into me being really stoked!

#7422 4 years ago

CE's provide the exact same game-play as all other models. The topper is quite awesome and adds to this experience, but it is definitely not the "only right answer". If he is most interested in the pinball aspects of the game, and the added money for bells and whistles don't appeal to him, CE is the way to go.

#7423 4 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Topper is the only reason to get an le.

The LE also has the color changing Martian Lights on the 6 saucers in the game and mirror blades. The lighting is a pretty big upgrade as it's used a lot in the game.

#7424 4 years ago
Quoted from pninja005:

Friend of mine wants to get the CE. Not for the price difference but to stay as close as possible to the original.
I recommend him to take the SE. Am I wrong?

I have the CE. I have the shaker motor, color upgrade chip for the display, (which also changes colors on the LEDs for the main saucer.) I have played an LE down in Boston a lot. It is cool, but after playing both I really love my CE as the large, wide display looks odd to me. I personally prefer the classic display size and not a fan of light up speakers. I love the classic feel of the stainless steel lockdown bar too. To each his own.

#7425 4 years ago

My son put up a pretty nice score. Got his first Total Annihilation, Martian Attack Mulitball, Superjets, 5 way combo, and had all but one city saved. Not bad for a 9 year old kid.

IMG_6686 (resized).JPGIMG_6686 (resized).JPG
#7426 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Based upon your recommendations, I believe these components should do the trick (minus the Comet stuff):
- Feed Thru Wire Housing | https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/571-3-640620-4
- JST 2 Pin Power Connector | https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/713-321050009
- Feed Thru Z Connector (32 pin designed to be cut to size) | https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MWWS100-2236
Also, instead of buying wire, I'm just going to make my harnesses short (the length of the JST 2 cable) and then use the Comet Matrix extensions to route to where my add-on lighting mods will be.
Just got my parts ordered - now my disappointment of not being able to do add-on lighting has turned into me being really stoked!

Ok nice...glad you found a local place for your electronics....and what another place to buy the z-connectors! Good to see that its at least the same price as mezelmods price so mezelmods wasn't price gouging me.

And with the led strips, you can really just snip them to length? Do you have to do anything to the end of them once you cut them?

Good luck with your upgrade!

#7427 4 years ago
Quoted from Gogdog:

Ok nice...glad you found a local place for your electronics....and what another place to buy the z-connectors! Good to see that its at least the same price as mezelmods price so mezelmods wasn't price gouging me.
And with the led strips, you can really just snip them to length? Do you have to do anything to the end of them once you cut them?
Good luck with your upgrade!

Cutting is simple on the Comet LED strips (done it dozes of times for all the mods I sell). You just have to maintain a resistor with each SMD (i.e. for every SMD you cut off, also cut off it's corresponding resistor). This image shows were all SMDs and resistors are in sequence. Sometimes in a strip the sequence will reverse (e.g. S|R|S|R|R|S|R|S) Same principle applies when cutting, you must leave each SMD's corresponding resistor intact for it to illuminate. Just work backwards from the opposite end of the wires in pairs, and you'll never mess up.

As far as doing anything to the end after you cut the strip - it always helps to lick it with your tongue to seal in the flavor.
stripcut_large.pngstripcut_large.png

#7428 4 years ago

Just got these in the mail. Oh man, I'm getting excited. Only 3 more days before I pickup my game.

FYI, I bought both the standard and the thin flipper bands to see which I like best on this game.
IMG_2802.JPGIMG_2802.JPG

#7429 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

ust got these in the mail. Oh man, I'm getting excited. Only 3 more days before I pickup my game.

I had these installed on my game from day 1 and changed the flipper bats to enhance the color. Great color choice-you'll love the look! Don't forget your Eat At Eddy's!!!

IMG_1361 (resized).JPGIMG_1361 (resized).JPGIMG_1359 (resized).JPGIMG_1359 (resized).JPGIMG_1547 (resized).JPGIMG_1547 (resized).JPG
#7430 4 years ago
Quoted from neverahighscore:

I had these installed on my game from day 1 and changed the flipper bats to enhance the color. Great color choice-you'll love the look! Don't forget your Eat At Eddy's!!![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That is a beautiful game, and I also have the green plastic protectors on the way. I’ll have to think about the bats. A translucent green might look nice. As far as the E@E, I have my own ideas for that.

#7431 4 years ago

Anyone with the eat at eddys mod can you take a pic of the whole playfield for me i can only find up close pics. Im still iffy on this mod.

#7432 4 years ago
Quoted from shovelhed:

Anyone with the eat at eddys mod can you take a pic of the whole playfield for me i can only find up close pics. Im still iffy on this mod.

Un"iffy" yourself, it's a great mod for this pin.

20180923_122052 (resized).jpg20180923_122052 (resized).jpg
#7434 4 years ago
Quoted from shovelhed:

Anyone with the eat at eddys mod can you take a pic of the whole playfield for me i can only find up close pics. Im still iffy on this mod.

Just get it. Guaranteed you will like it.

#7435 4 years ago

You all sold me, yes it looks great.

#7436 4 years ago

You better hurry up and buy that last one, before I do. I can finally say I'm in the club now. Best call outs in pinball!

#7437 4 years ago

One shot away from RTU.
Couldn't make it to save my life...

Incredible game, never leaving!

#7438 4 years ago

BTW, you know my comment was in jest, right? I typed it while smiling?

Seriously, however, if you’ve not figured out how to use the Pinside search features or how to view the image gallery in a topic, they are extremely useful features of this forum.

#7439 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

One shot away from RTU.
Couldn't make it to save my life...
Incredible game, never leaving!

Isn’t amazing how simple yet fun this game is? They make the final mode just hard enough to get to keep you coming back. Even though it’s the simplest layout of all my pins it’s in my top favorites. I plan on keeping mine forever also.

#7440 4 years ago
Quoted from tpir:

Have a really weird issue that I can't begin to figure out since it seems like the software is failing badly (not even sure how that would be possible.)
About once every five or six games I will drain (well after ball save) and instead of the bonus sequence and the ball actually ending the game launches all 4 balls one after the other. If I let all 4 of those drain, the ball ends and I get the bonus sequence. Everything in the trough seems fine and the game seems to "know" it launched 4 balls. No clue at all
I know this sounds insane, but I can get video of it.

I have this same issue- random when it happens! Will open a ticket with CGC too.

#7441 4 years ago

I had titan silicon rings on mine when I picked it up, I took them off very quickly. Balls hit these rubber like compounds and just die, the game felt dead and lifeless compared to the real stuff.

Quoted from neverahighscore:

I had these installed on my game from day 1 and changed the flipper bats to enhance the color. Great color choice-you'll love the look! Don't forget your Eat At Eddy's!!![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

#7442 4 years ago
Quoted from jalpert:

I had titan silicon rings on mine when I picked it up, I took them off very quickly. Balls hit these rubber like compounds and just die, the game felt dead and lifeless compared to the real stuff.

I'm using perfect play red rubber.

Very similar to latex gameplay wise. but way more durable and cleanable.

#7443 4 years ago

I had a few goodies arrive today. Now all I need is the actual machine to go with them - that's happening tomorrow.

IMG_2816.JPGIMG_2816.JPG
#7444 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I had a few goodies arrive today. Now all I need is the actual machine to go with them - that's happening tomorrow.[quoted image]

tenor.giftenor.gif
#7445 4 years ago

So, I'm not one to count my chicken's before they hatch, but I'm 99.9% certain that an AFMr LE (green) will be in my possession tomorrow. I found one in pristine condition within a day trip of where I live that is currently owned by a fellow Pinsider who really seems to love his pinball. He has a significant collection of all newer pins and typically LE models. He's got a couple of new ones coming in and needs to make room, so he decided to put his AFM on the market. Coincidentally (well, not really), it was exactly what I've been looking and saving for over the last year. Fortunately for me, I was the first to make a serious offer and we came to terms. I always dreamed one day that I would be able to join the exclusive AFM/AFMr owners club, and now it's just one day away.

Since the pin is in stock condition (beautiful and pristine at that), I do want to put my own flair on it - I just can't help myself. I've spent the last week reading every single post in this thread, and every other thread that references AFMr. Anyway, down the line I will most likely add some external lighting mods (definitely the interactive flipper buttons, and maybe the undercab lighting), but for now here are the things I have ordered. Let me know if I've overlooked anything obvious:

- Full set of AFMr Cliffy protectors
- Pinbits green plastic protectors (I have thin lock nuts coming - not sure what else I will need to make these work)
- Full set of Titan rings, posts, and flipper rubbers in glow-in-the-dark
- Parts to build my own lighting harnesses to tap into GI to for my planned lighting mods (trough light and scoop light using Comet Matrix LED strips)
- Nylon washers for the leg bolts (picked these up at Ace Hardware for $0.27 each)

- The other two things on my list that will come a little later are
1) Target decals - I'm going to design my own just for the red targets and the top of the 3 target gate. Not sure exactly what the design will be yet, but I don't care for the ones I've seen out there. Also, for some reason I really like the greens to be blank in this game (probably the semi-transparency).
2) Eat at Eddies - Well, my plan is to design my own version of this. I have something in my head, but not on digital paper yet. There are a few things I would prefer be different, and I want to put my own flare on the mod. More to come on that.

#7446 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

- Pinbits green plastic protectors (I have thin lock nuts coming - not sure what else I will need to make these work)

See my post #7302 at the link below:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/attack-from-mars-remake-afmr-owners-club/page/147#post-5145994

Thin nuts can work, but there will still be very little thread to "grab". There are plenty on here that have done it and do not seem to have issues. So, what I did was likely overboard, but it gives me peace of mind to know that the entire nut is on the threads. Just posting so that you are aware what will need to be changed if you want it similar.

Welcome to the club!

#7447 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

So, I'm not one to count my chicken's before they hatch, but I'm 99.9% certain that an AFMr LE (green) will be in my possession tomorrow. I found one in pristine condition within a day trip of where I live that is currently owned by a fellow Pinsider who really seems to love his pinball. He has a significant collection of all newer pins and typically LE models. He's got a couple of new ones coming in and needs to make room, so he decided to put his AFM on the market. Coincidentally (well, not really), it was exactly what I've been looking and saving for over the last year. Fortunately for me, I was the first to make a serious offer and we came to terms. I always dreamed one day that I would be able to join the exclusive AFM/AFMr owners club, and now it's just one day away.
Since the pin is in stock condition (beautiful and pristine at that), I do want to put my own flair on it - I just can't help myself. I've spent the last week reading every single post in this thread, and every other thread that references AFMr. Anyway, down the line I will most likely add some external lighting mods (definitely the interactive flipper buttons, and maybe the undercab lighting), but for now here are the things I have ordered. Let me know if I've overlooked anything obvious:
- Full set of AFMr Cliffy protectors
- Pinbits green plastic protectors (I have thin lock nuts coming - not sure what else I will need to make these work)
- Full set of Titan rings, posts, and flipper rubbers in glow-in-the-dark
- Parts to build my own lighting harnesses to tap into GI to for my planned lighting mods (trough light and scoop light using Comet Matrix LED strips)
- Nylon washers for the leg bolts (picked these up at Ace Hardware for $0.27 each)
- The other two things on my list that will come a little later are
1) Target decals - I'm going to design my own just for the red targets and the top of the 3 target gate. Not sure exactly what the design will be yet, but I don't care for the ones I've seen out there. Also, for some reason I really like the greens to be blank in this game (probably the semi-transparency).
2) Eat at Eddies - Well, my plan is to design my own version of this. I have something in my head, but not on digital paper yet. There are a few things I would prefer be different, and I want to put my own flare on the mod. More to come on that.

Titans play dead IMO. I'd use the glow-in-the-dark for accents like posts if you want, but Marco white is the way to go for the rubber. Lots more ball action. Marco is the only white rubber worth using. Everything else I've used falls short, and some are AWFUL.

I'd also have a look at the animated EL art blades from pingraffix. Really cool finishing move to the inside of the cabinet.

#7448 4 years ago
Quoted from maffewl:

See my post #7302 at the link below:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/attack-from-mars-remake-afmr-owners-club/page/147#post-5145994
Thin nuts can work, but there will still be very little thread to "grab". There are plenty on here that have done it and do not seem to have issues. So, what I did was likely overboard, but it gives me peace of mind to know that the entire nut is on the threads. Just posting so that you are aware what will need to be changed if you want it similar.
Welcome to the club!

Thank you for the link. I'll see how things go for me, and turn to ordering new posts if I need to. These protectors are much thicker than I expected them to be.

#7449 4 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Titans play dead IMO. I'd use the glow-in-the-dark for accents like posts if you want, but Marco white is the way to go for the rubber. Lots more ball action. Marco is the only white rubber worth using. Everything else I've used falls short, and some are AWFUL.
I'd also have a look at the animated EL art blades from pingraffix. Really cool finishing move to the inside of the cabinet.

Thanks for your perspective. I've played Titans on both of my other pins since I've owned them, and personally really like the look and the feel. Of course, I really don't have anything to compare to except the crappy deteriorated black rubber ones that came on Getaway (my JP was my neighbor's and he always had Titans on all of his pins too).

#7450 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Thanks for your perspective. I've played Titans on both of my other pins since I've owned them, and personally really like the look and the feel. Of course, I really don't have anything to compare to except the crappy deteriorated black rubber ones that came on Getaway (my JP was my neighbor's and he always had Titans on all of his pins too).

If that's the case, you will be shocked at how the machine comes alive with Marco's white rubber.

Titans LOOK great, easy to clean, but play dead. Worse than black rubber for ball action, IMO.

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