Too late. Had a couple beers and that was it. Order has been placed.

Whether you pay at the point of sale, or when you file your state tax return, you are legally obligated to be paying sales tax on purchases; you know this.

Anyone have an idea of what the street price for the AFMR CE is these days? Do they go for the $6k or are there some deals out there?

6k is pretty good for a NIB game.
The used market might be slim pickings...

Just received my AFMr CE. Awesome game and am having a ton of fun playing it.

Quick question, are the flippers designed to feel a bit weaker? I have mine set at the default setting, but they feel very weak. A controlled shot will make the ramps, saucer, etc., but it is not zooming by any means. For instance, a controlled shot to the saucer will "roll into" the hole. It's not like I'd ever be worried about any damage there. I've turned the power level up to +1 on the flippers, but it didn't seem to make a ton of difference. Just curious if I'm over-analyzing this.

Do you have the SOL 2 solenoid board chip installed?

From what I can tell and heard is pricing is set by CGC. If you shop around you may be able to save a little on shipping, but we’re probably talking $50-$100.

I can look when I get home. Is this an aftermarket chip, or something from CGC that should be pre-installed, or...?

It's an updated chip from CGC. It fixes an issue where changing solenoid powers in the V1 chip could cause a transistor to fail, damaging the board. More information here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cgc-pinball-production-update/page/27#post-4148616

I have the SOL V2.0 chip it appears.

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I felt the same way about the flippers at first. But I think they just take some getting used to.

I think one of the big contributors to this feeling, for me, is that the saucer shot is actually in a bit of a weak spot on the flipper. Especially the right flipper.

All the other shots are much stronger than the saucer shot. Well at least for me, but then again, I suck at pinball.

Perfect.
Now you can adjust settings without worries.

What setting do most use?

Well that depends . I've got my flippers set at -13. That setting allows me to make all the ramp and orbit shots pretty solidly without flying off the ramps.

As I mentioned before, the saucer shots feel weaker in comparison, due to the shot location. But still totally fine once you get used to it.

But the flipper power setting may be much different on your game due to different input voltage, different pitch of the game etc. Also just personal preference. I don't like flippers which are way over powered.

After reading through this entire forum while waiting for my LE to arrive, it seems like -2 is the most common setting. Balls were flying off the ramps at default power. I agree that the saucer shot is pretty weak if it’s going straight in. Seems to be a result of the hole placement and the “droopy” design position of the flippers. I feel like It has made me a better player, however.

As we know, there are sections of the playfield that glow when hit with UV "black" light. Has anyone found a way to best make those UV reactive sections glow and stand out? If so, what is the best way to achieve this? Thanks.

Just installed color chip. Confirmed main saucer changes colors now.

So... weird situation. I’m waiting on my color chip to arrive, but my main ship is already “interactive” and changing colors. I actually can’t set it to just a single color.

If you’re thinking about buying an AFMr, I have to say, I have this game dialed in now.

CE version, shaker motor and color display.

The game is great quality. I have it perfectly set up in my opinion, with the standard sized display it just looks right to me. The color display looks amazing, and the “unstretched” - classic sized display is the way to go. I had an original Bally version of this game and even on the CE the sound / speakers are a huge upgrade in comparison. Bonus that the CE, the one I wanted was actually less than the other two that offered things I didn’t care for (oversized display, light up speakers, painted trim). I’m all-in for about $6500 for a NIB game with the two factory mods.

Odd. My CE was red only prior to the chip swap.

To me, the new supersized display is awesome - wouldn't want anything else
They did an incredible job integrating it size wise and with the color graphics - I hope they offer it on all their remakes

That is great. I can see the appeal. For me, and my collection, it fits right in with the classic size. Probably the same reason I was never interested in a JJP game. That huge TV on the backbox is quite unattractive to me and takes away where there could be so much great artwork. Nice that these games CGC retain the art and include a large display option as well.

I’m with you on the actual TV screens on pins—don’t like that trend at all! But the oversized DMD on my AFMrLE is awesome!! If I could upgrade all my other DMD games to that size screen, I would.

I think Stern nailed it with the latest LCD pins. Perfect size. Shows plenty of information while retaining a large backbox art. JJP is just too much.

It’s pretty easy to get used to the JJP screens. Don’t be put off.

Anyone have this problem, looking for some help. The L. gate is getting hung up on the metal rail, and the ball gets stuck under the gate during game play.

It launches fine for the skill shot, it makes it around the arch fine.

Thanks in advance, I will keep searching this thread also.

afm 1 (resized).jpg

Loosen the screws holding the gate bracket to the playfield and turn a little and retighten.

Bend end of it not fastened down, up a little.

LTG : )

My left flipper is noticably lower when in the up position than the right one. I don't notice anything out of the ordinary in the down position. I assume this is something easy to fix but could use some help diagnosing it. Does this mean the coil is dying and needs to be replaced?

Doubt it. Try this first...

I thought mine was doing this as well since it was stopping at the left gate. It actually was the ball guide sticking out too far just behind the ball gate. Loosened screws and pushed it in a little.

Has anyone bought the orange plastic protectors from Cointaker? I'm about to pick up an AFMr LE next week and was wondering what those might look like in action. I'm either going to get those or the green ones from pinbits.

I ordered the green protectors from Pinbits. Think the green fit the game nicely! They kind of glow with the game off as well!

IMG_1672 (resized).jpg

IMG_1673.JPG.pdf

I ordered those as well (from Pinbits) and went to install this past weekend. How were you able to install and still place the screws/nuts back on? The protectors were so thick that I was barely able to get a thread to turn on, and in some places the screws weren't long enough to reinstall. I would love to have these on, but don't see how it is possible.

When I ordered my set from Cointaker (June 2017), the protector set came with two orange and two green protectors...

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Had the same problem with the ones I ordered from Mezel Mods. Ending up returning them

Thanks for the comment. Curious how others have actually installed these? I've seen them on several machines, but without ordering longer posts/screws as well, I don't see how it is possible.

Oh interesting. Their site only has orange as a drop-down option. So the trough plastics are orange and slings are green?

I have them installed on my game and they look amazing. There isn't a lot of extra 'post' to screw down the stock nuts. So what you can do is purchase low profile nuts which is about half the size of the originals and allow you to get the nut to lock without a issue. I had extra from a previous restore but places like Pinball Life and others sell them-very common part. They also have color versions of the nuts to match any looks you want to create.

Those look great!

Pinball life sells longer (taller) post.

Thanks all. I've ordered taller posts from Pinballlife as well as some low-profile nuts per the links below. I just wasn't sure if people were somehow able to accomplish this without these replacement parts.

https://www.pinballlife.com/machine-poststud-530-5008-00.html
ebay.com link: Team Associated 8 32 Steel Low Profile Locknut 6 ASC6953

If you remove the washers that were originally under the plastics after you add the protectors, there was enough post to screw the locknuts into and be secure, or at least that's what I've found on my AFMr and my MBr. Buying longer posts does solve any potential problem though.

Anyone have issues where the screen is blank on boot up? It is intermittent and has happened about 3 times over the last few weeks.

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Please turn the game off. Reseat all cables to LCD and from it to the board in the head. See if things improve.

LTG : )

Does anyone know where I can find a left saucer plastic (image attached) available for purchase? I like to have replacements on hand if ever needed, but can only find the right one.

Left Saucer Plastic (resized).jpg

You'll probably have to buy the whole set.

LTG : )

Dang. That stinks. Not really into dropping ~$130 for backups. Thanks though for the advice, LTG.

I played AFMr on location, this past weekend, not that familiar with the game. Is it unlike MM/MMr in that during multiball, you cannot advance the central saucer 3 bank with hits? Seemed like that although I could be mistaken. In MMr, the central strategy is to hit the castle during multiball to advance the number of castles crushed.

That's correct. Trick is to have shield down before starting MB.

Thanks for the reply. So even as explained, having the shield down (the 3 bank?) before multiball only allows you to work on the current saucer city, you cannot say get 2 saucers during any one multiball like MMr lets you endlessly work on the castles. Appreciated the reply thanks.