Quoted from joseph5185:Fascinating!
Welp, the game just arrived around 30 mins ago. Here soon I'll work on getting the legs on, leveled, all that fun stuff.
Quoted from joseph5185:Fascinating!
Welp, the game just arrived around 30 mins ago. Here soon I'll work on getting the legs on, leveled, all that fun stuff.
Sorry... RTU???
Edit: Just kidding... I saw the pic! I still don't know what the hell that means... haha
Pirates is creeping up in that Top 100! ...
Almost 5th, 4th, etc..
I think it's fun to track this.
We already know this is the "best" game on depth alone...but yea.
Quoted from homegameroom:I just got notified that my NIB AFRrLE (black trim) should arrive on Friday! I never imagined I would have one of these in my hands before my MBrLR arrived (which was ordered in October 2018). I guess I will have to Rule the Universe before I can join the Monsters of Rock.
Congrats! My NIB black trim LE will be here next week! Can't wait!! Does anyone know production numbers for LE colors? Seems like most I've seen are green. I wouldn't mind the green if the head trim matched, but black is my favorite.
Quoted from wackenhut:Can you reset number of plays on these new remakes? Just curious when updating code, etc.
Yes
Quoted from wackenhut:Can you reset number of plays on these new remakes? Just curious when updating code, etc.
Update code, factory reset, yes.
LTG : )
Quoted from SeaLawyer:Thanks, guys. Yeh, I guess if I absolutely hate the way it plays, I can always remove it. I wouldn't consider it on a used game, but I'd like to keep the playfield pristine, even though it's only HUO. I don't have them on any other machines, but I bought one for the new CPR Gold TAF playfield that I'll eventually get around to installing. Same rationale.
The other alternative would be this:
ebay.com link » Attack From Mars Pinball Machine Complete Mylar Set Enhanced Set
Does the remake come with any mylar?
Playfield protector is easy to cut off if you do not like it. Plenty of people on here always pushing their opinion down your throat. Do whatever you decide is best for you and your family. Game is super fun.
There is some mylar around the pop bumpers and the SOL scoop. I think that is about it.
I got it guys!
WOW! So much fun and you can FEEL that shaker motor.
I can't find this "SOL 2.0" thing...I looked for a bit, but to no avail.
Just need to plug in the topper -- what a sick looking topper!
Quoted from joseph5185:I can't find this "SOL 2.0" thing
In the backbox. Your game may have 2.0, or may have something different, which is likely okay.
If it has 1.0 or lower number on that PIC ( integrated circuit ) don't adjust any coil strengths until you get the updated chip.
LTG : )
DSC00480 (resized).JPGDSC00481 (resized).JPGQuoted from joseph5185:Thanks.
Pretty sure that’s a no.
[quoted image]
Edit: “1.0 or lower.” I may be okay. It looks like it’s later than 1.0, but don’t fully understand it.
Call either PPS or your distributor and get the pic 2.0 chip kit.
It's free and should have come with your boxed game.
They were idiots not to include it with your purchase or verify it was installed.
Its important.
Do it right away.
Lack of it wont hurt the game, but make no menu flipper adjustments until you at least verify its installed.
It was trying to make solenoid adjustments that killed the solenoid boards with a pic 1.0 chip
Quoted from joseph5185:Edit: “1.0 or lower.” I may be okay. It looks like it’s later than 1.0, but don’t fully understand it.
Your game is okay. No label is good too. Only issue is if it has the label with 1.0 on it.
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:Your game is okay. No label is good too. Only issue is if it has the label with 1.0 on it.
LTG : )
Oh! Awesome! =)
Quoted from LTG:Your game is okay. No label is good too. Only issue is if it has the label with 1.0 on it.
LTG : )
It worries me. Lol
The 2.0 label is very comforting...
Topper isn't working ... =/
I turn the game on, the saucers light up. The Martian's eyes remain lit up and that's about it. I have everything plugged in correctly.
I went to the System Menu to test it and when it's Running it does nothing.
I'll poke around this thread and the technical one to see if anyone else ran into issues with this.
I'm so lucky...
Edit: Disregard.
I have to cut the pin on the PCB because that connector should be plugged in.
That makes perfect sense. Why didn't I think of that?
Any suggestions on what I should cut this pin with?
Smh...
Quoted from joseph5185:Topper isn't working ... =/
I turn the game on, the saucers light up. The Martian's eyes remain lit up and that's about it. I have everything plugged in correctly.
I went to the System Menu to test it and when it's Running it does nothing.
I'll poke around this thread and the technical one to see if anyone else ran into issues with this.
I'm so lucky...
Edit: Disregard. I have to cut the pin on the PCB because that connector should be plugged in.
That makes perfect sense. Why didn't I think of that?
Any suggestions on what I should cut this pin with?
Smh...
So anyway... From reading, it appears the PIC 2.0 actually fixed the topper issue for some so I guess that is my next best move.
Disappointing...
Back to my other game.
Quoted from joseph5185:So anyway... From reading, it appears the PIC 2.0 actually fixed the topper issue for some so I guess that is my next best move.
Disappointing...
Back to my other game.
I don’t recall having to cut anything. The topper connection should plug in without the need of cutting pins etc.
Quoted from ausretrogamer:I don’t recall having to cut anything. The topper connection should plug in without the need of cutting pins etc.
Back in the early days there were a few games that went out with the pin un-cut.
To make the cut, I would use a small pair of diagonal cutters and snip it as close to the base as I could get.
Quoted from ausretrogamer:I don’t recall having to cut anything. The topper connection should plug in without the need of cutting pins etc.
It best to cut the pin off.
Just in case later it got plugged in backwards.
Quoted from joseph5185:Topper isn't working ... =/
I turn the game on, the saucers light up. The Martian's eyes remain lit up and that's about it. I have everything plugged in correctly.
I went to the System Menu to test it and when it's Running it does nothing.
I'll poke around this thread and the technical one to see if anyone else ran into issues with this.
I'm so lucky...
Edit: Disregard.
I have to cut the pin on the PCB because that connector should be plugged in.
That makes perfect sense. Why didn't I think of that?
Any suggestions on what I should cut this pin with?
Smh...
Go to harbor freight.
Buy a collection of small hand tools.
Assorted small Needle nose pliers including the flat duck-bill one and the bent one. There is a 4 pack sometimes.
Small and large diagonal cutters.
Small Ratchet wrench kit with 6" or 8" handle. You only need 5/8" and 3/8" sockets for leg bolts and flipper pawls.
Assorted screw drivers etc.
Allen wrenches. The separate ones not the folding ones.
Some fine picks straight and bent.
Exacto knife with #11 blades or scalpel.
Tiny 4" channel lock pliers.
Tiny 4" crescent wrench
6" crescent wrench.
Flexable magnetic pickup tool.
Can of nylon ties.
30w soldering iron kit.
Pack of shrink tubing in assorted sizes.
Wire stripper.
Hemostat.
This should get you started.
Quoted from wackenhut:Does any software need to be updated from a NIB machine?
No, it's technically finished.
To confirm, the topper is NOT working after plugging in the “INPUTS” cable as suggested.
I saw some use cases where upgrading to the PIC 2.0 can get the topper working so I reached out to my distributor about it as the topper not working is pretty disappointing...
Game plays great otherwise!
Quoted from joseph5185:To confirm, the topper is NOT working after plugging in the “INPUTS” cable as suggested.
I saw some use cases where upgrading to the PIC 2.0 can get the topper working so I reached out to my distributor about it as the topper not working is pretty disappointing...
Game plays great otherwise!
My topper is still in the wooden box. Its too high with it for my gameroom.
Quoted from pinballinreno:My topper is still in the wooden box. Its too high with it for my gameroom.
I suspect the topper itself is fine. I really hope it is so I'm betting on this PIC 2.0 thing fixing it.
That topper has to be one of the very best in pinball...
Quoted from pinballinreno:Go to harbor freight.
Buy a collection of small hand tools.
Assorted small Needle nose pliers including the flat duck-bill one and the bent one. There is a 4 pack sometimes.
Small and large diagonal cutters.
Small Ratchet wrench kit with 6" or 8" handle. You only need 5/8" and 3/8" sockets for leg bolts and flipper pawls.
Assorted screw drivers etc.
Allen wrenches. The separate ones not the folding ones.
Some fine picks straight and bent.
Exacto knife with #11 blades or scalpel.
Tiny 4" channel lock pliers.
Tiny 4" crescent wrench
6" crescent wrench.
Flexable magnetic pickup tool.
Can of nylon ties.
30w soldering iron kit.
Pack of shrink tubing in assorted sizes.
Wire stripper.
Hemostat.
This should get you started.
Folding allen wrenches are trash.
The magnetic pickup tool has already come in handy. That thing is a God send.
Ah hah - 30w soldering kit. I found a thread where vid1900 talked about this. I don't remember what that thread was. I have seen sodlering irons that are in the 60w.
Is "too much" wattage a bad thing? Does that just mean it gets hotter? I definitely need to pick one up, but I'm HOPING that I don't have to open it for a very long time!
Too much heat is a bad thing. It’s not about wattage, it’s about heat and control. Get a digitally temperature controlled iron and be done.
Quoted from pintechev:Too much heat is a bad thing. It’s not about wattage, it’s about heat and control. Get a digitally temperature controlled iron and be done.
Okay. Perfect.
Link?
Quoted from joseph5185:Okay. Perfect.
Link?
Lots of folks love this one. I do, too.
Hakko FX888D-23BY Digital Soldering Station FX-888D FX-888 (blue & yellow) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ANZRT4M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_N-ZYCb6RP21E0
Quoted from joseph5185:Okay. Perfect.
Link?
Though the Hakko is a beautiful tool (i have one).
You wont be doing any pc-board level work, I dont think at least.
So for a beginner:
A general purpose 30 to 40 watt soldering iron is perfect for re-attaching any loose wires off of coils or connectors, or heating up a little shrink tubing.
Also does a good job on pc-boards if you are careful.
https://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-40-Watt-Soldering-Station/dp/B000AS28UC/ref=sr_1_2_sspa
It has temperature control and has been a standard for hobbyists for many years.
Set it to 4 or so.
Its a good price
on the cheap side, pinrestore has a little 30 watt for $3.50, scroll down to find it.
http://pinrestore.com/Tools.html
I bought one on my last order and its a good little iron
Quoted from joseph5185:Well... took the blocker pin out, plugged it in.
Good for you.
Quoted from joseph5185:and still nothing.
Do you have it turned on in the CGC menu ? Page 1-10 in your manual or :
If yes then please go to - https://www.chicago-gaming.com/support/helpdesk and open a ticket on the support help desk.
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:Good for you.
Do you have it turned on in the CGC menu ? Page 1-10 in your manual or :
If yes then please go to - https://www.chicago-gaming.com/support/helpdesk and open a ticket on the support help desk.
LTG : )
Looking at that vid, I remembered that you have to increase the subwoofer on the 1st screen to get good sound.
Quoted from wackenhut:What is the best way to ship an AFM LE? The concern is with the topper of course.
Maybe remove the topper and put it in a sturdy box, like to one it came in.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Looking at that vid, I remembered that you have to increase the subwoofer on the 1st screen to get good sound.
“Good” sound!?
I’m pretty sure that woofer rocks harder than my JJP POTC...
At least it feels like it!
Quoted from LTG:Good for you.
Do you have it turned on in the CGC menu ? Page 1-10 in your manual or :
If yes then please go to - https://www.chicago-gaming.com/support/helpdesk and open a ticket on the support help desk.
LTG : )
I watched that video and didn’t see an “on.”
My screen matches that in the video however.
I can open a Support ticket and I already have tracking for the 2.0 SOL.
I’m HOPING that fixes it...
Quoted from pinballinreno:Though the Hakko is a beautiful tool (i have one).
You wont be doing any pc-board level work, I dont think at least.
So for a beginner:
A general purpose 30 to 40 watt soldering iron is perfect for re-attaching any loose wires off of coils or connectors, or heating up a little shrink tubing.
Also does a good job on pc-boards if you are careful.
amazon.com link »
It has temperature control and has been a standard for hobbyists for many years.
Set it to 4 or so.
Its a good price
on the cheap side, pinrestore has a little 30 watt for $3.50, scroll down to find it.
http://pinrestore.com/Tools.html
I bought one on my last order and its a good little iron
Good stuff!
This should damn near be a key post despite having nothing to do with the game. lol
Quoted from joseph5185:I watched that video and didn’t see an “on.”
The video showed you how to get into the CGC menu. Every time you hit the Escape button, you go forward one screen until you go back to attract mode.
The last screen you can set the Martian Duration Off, or Light, or Full.
Hold launch button to test.
LTG : )
DSC00802 (resized).JPGQuoted from LTG:The video showed you how to get into the CGC menu. Every time you hit the Escape button, you go forward one screen until you go back to attract mode.
The last screen you can set the Martian Duration Off, or Light, or Full.
Hold launch button to test.
LTG : )
[quoted image]
Fair enough. I'm 99% sure it was "Full"
100% sure it was NOT "Off"
Come play MBR, AFMR, and MMR at Allentown Pinfest this weekend in the PinballSTAR booth !
Can’t make the show and interested in purchasing ? Email Joe at [email protected].
E26D16E2-C881-472C-AE56-DC54E213B72A (resized).jpeg51329505-329E-4215-B8F2-587DC233AC90 (resized).jpegA409CECF-7A87-4273-B082-D6D2F30F09CC (resized).jpegQuoted from joseph5185:To confirm, the topper is NOT working after plugging in the “INPUTS” cable as suggested.
I saw some use cases where upgrading to the PIC 2.0 can get the topper working so I reached out to my distributor about it as the topper not working is pretty disappointing...
Game plays great otherwise!
I bought my LE from Planetary a few weeks ago, and Sara told me there was a good chance the topper wouldn't work if I didn't put the 2.0 PIC chip in.
But also, FYI, a few of the topper cables were labelled incorrectly, and needed to be plugged in to different spots than they indicated. I got it all figured out, but it wasn't so simple.
Quoted from moonduckie78:I bought my LE from Planetary a few weeks ago, and Sara told me there was a good chance the topper wouldn't work if I didn't put the 2.0 PIC chip in.
But also, FYI, a few of the topper cables were labelled incorrectly, and needed to be plugged in to different spots than they indicated. I got it all figured out, but it wasn't so simple.
Makes sense based on what others were saying here.
I actually watched a video where the dude ran into the same issue I did and a lot of others where the pin wouldn't fit with the blocker...so he just ignored it. Fired on the game and Topper worked like a champ.
I was like ... sweet.
The thing is .. he had the 2.0 SOL so based on that and everyone else here that's why I'm hopeful.
Looking at tracking... it's still in pre-shiipment. =(
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