Whoa...they got out of stock that quickly? I was slightly worried that I had waited an hour after getting the notification email to place my order (I was sifting through the rest of the site looking for anything else I might want with the order), and …..it looks like I should have been worried! Glad I still got one though.

You guys hit a home run with that. I can't imagine mine without it now. What makes this a great mod, is that it looks like its supposed to be there.

Bummer. Missed it by an hour. Got an email too but I'm at work. If you miss it, make sure to resign up for their mailing list.

No idea. I didn't get that piece when I ordered the fluorescent protector set from them, and I can't see any place that it would fit. The picture on their website shows nine protectors (including that small piece), but the description specifies eight.

I did my first cleaning of my AFMr, just a standard cleaning with Novus 1.

However....I was hoping it was going to be easier to clean the orbits/pop bumper areas, but....it seems I would need to take off most of the ramp plastics to get back there? Any suggestions on best way to clean the orbit?

I made a slight adjustment to the flipper. Right is factory, left is after adjustment. It makes a big difference to me when it comes to ball control - particularly when it comes to stopping and cradling a ball.

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I've used a flexible/soft (technical term: "bendy" ) plastic rod with a Novus-soaked cloth attached at the end. I simply push the rod/cloth up and thru the orbit - a few times in both directions. This is mostly only good for for removing dust/grit/grime. Not a replacement for buffing if you're looking to remove/reduce ball trails, etc.

As I was playing tonight this post mysteriously appeared in my left outlane. For the life of me I can't figure out where it came from. I tried looking at pics on ipdb but no luck. Can anyone help?

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Thank you both, that's it.

Any bets on how long it takes me to get the motivation to remove the wire ramp so I can get this fixed?

I do hope you throw it in the cash box for the next owner.

LTG : )

Of course. Along with a few random parts from another game in the bottom of the cabinet just to mess with then.

Can you post a pic with the fluorescent protectors installed? Preferably with lights on AND lights off??

Thanks in advance!!

Decently new to Pinball...so quick question. Is post passing fairly difficult on this pin? I can post pass no problem on my IMDN, but the ball follows a much different path when I try and post pass on AFMr. Just want to know if post-passing is/isn't feasible depending on the pin...

Also, in my home use environment...I notice a fairly decent amount of...static/ "fuzzy" type noise from the speakers. You know, lets say the speakers are not actively playing a sound, but I can still hear background noise. Definitely louder on the AFMr than the IMDN speakers. Should I check for anything or...is upgrading to flipper fidelity speakers the only way to reduce it?

Check your volume, check the subwoofer setting.

You can dial it out.

This is the best I could do with my phone. The fluorescent protectors sort of give the whole playfield a green glow but IMO it works very well. The glow is subtle until you look directly at one of the GI lights, and then you're like, "Whoa, the martians HAVE landed..." I took these with the camera's flash on except for the last one.

You can also have Pinbits send you a set of red/green fluorescent protectors. Check out the thread here for pictures of what that looks like. I wish I ordered that set, but only because I would have liked to see what the red looks like in person. I'm 100% satisfied with the all-green look. Totally worth it.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/attack-from-mars-pinbits-colored-plastic-protectors

Hopefully they're in order...
1 - Machine off, right sling/return
2 - Machine off, left drop targets
3 - Machine off, mothership
4 - Machine on, GI set to MIN, playfield off
5 - Machine on, GI set to MAX, playfield set to MAX, flash off - this is the closest to how it looks in person but the picture really does not do it justice; my crappy phone's camera took away a lot of the actual fluorescent green/glow of the protectors.

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In my experience, post passing can vary depending on the design of the game, flipper angle, material and age of the rubber parts, etc.

Same here with mine. If I set the backbox brightness to MAX or -1 I can hear a soft fuzz when in attract mode (when I'm playing I can't hear the static/buzz at all), but if I adjust the backbox brightness down it gets progressively worse; -2 is more static-y and -3 causes more of a high-pitched buzz, which sucks because -3 would be the perfect setting for me. MIN is only slightly noisier than MAX. I may poke around inside to see if it's a grounding issue, but I'll probably end up opening a ticket with CGC.

BTW, if you adjust your backbox brightness, is there a difference between MAX and -1? For me, there is zero difference.

OK...so, just curious, on your AFM are you able to post-pass reliably?

No..they are exactly the same for me.

Whoa...this is exactly what is happening. On Max and -1....I just get normal speaker sound, no "buzzing" (max and -1 are the same brightness so same sound coming out of the speaker). As soon as I go to -2 the buzzing comes back. -3 for me....is a higher pitched buzzing...a clearly different tone. Min has the same tone as the -2 setting.

I would really like to have the Min backbox setting....because it has much less glare on the PF glass. IMDN is nice because there is a setting where you can have the backbox be at a different brightness level during gameplay and then back to normal during attract. So...I have it at 10% during gameplay to eliminate glare.

When are you getting your game?

As soon as the GF’s status card comes in! Lol

Thanks for all of the pics and link!

My SOL hole kick out had been mega inconsistent lately. Sometimes ball rockets out hits the middle of the flipper other times straight down the middle. Any suggestions

Could be inconsistencies with your power. I have mine on a variac now.

Also something might be loose like a coil stop or even the whole assembly.

To me it acts like a power issue. It droops or it rockets out. I checked coil stops and linkage etc.

Yes I put my woz and afmr on a variac set to 119v

So you think its inconsistent wall power?

Having played many AFM machines over the years I would say that is fairly easy to post pass on most of them.

I have terrible power as noted many times on the Houdini thread.

My power goes from 113v to 124v in a single 4 hour session almost daily.

My AFMr at high voltage throws the ball around like crazy and cant even keep it on the wireform.

At low voltage the ball goes SDTM off the SOL every single time and I cant get the ball up the ramp.

One of the joy's of pinball is the "unregulated" power system in the game.

Few, if any, games have power regulation (Houdini might be the first?) to insure even, constant game-play.

So, I put it on a variac at 118 or 119v, adjusted all of the game settings and now its amazing! Super consistant and a joy to play.

My TH cant make the windlance shot consistently unless on the variac or I fiddle with game settings daily.

I just got tired of adjusting my coil settings daily, I regulated the power instead.

Stick one of those little AC outlet voltmeters in a socket on the same breaker as the game, and look at it when the game play seems off.

For me it was enlightening.

Thank yo very much for posting this. We are experiencing a similar issue since we had out Tesla Powerwall 2 installed. One day balls are flying everywhere, the next the ball will not go up the ramp. If we switch to main power only we get a constant 247 Volts (240V power) and machines play awesome. If we use battery or solar power the voltage can vary between 210V - 240V. The voltage can vary quite a bit. We understand what is happening and have not come up with a solution yet, Tesla are doing their best to help out with firmware.

Could you please give me a bit more info on what a variac is and where you bought it? I am think it is a voltage regulator? Could you please confirm name, brand etc, etc.

Thanks

If you are looking for a low cost variable ac transformer, and you are 220-240v, something like this maybe:

Volteq 2KVA Variable Transformer 2000VA 0-250V 220V AC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OBSMTTM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JpH7BbEPQ6C92

2000w is plenty for 2 games on each variac.

You must use a voltmeter to adjust them as the dial is very inaccurate.

Love the mezel mods eat at eddys building! Just echoing what everyone else says about it...it looks like it was supposed to be in the game. I didn't put tape on the VUK...it seems to stay in place just fine by itself. Plus if I taped it, it was close to blocking a screw on the plastics below it. I like mods that I can easily reverse.

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That is the information I needed, a brand and model. I will get my wife to order one from somewhere here in Aus and try it out.

I find it very interesting that the voltage changes affect each game differently. EG. TAF flipper strength goes up or down. IMDNLE, AFMrLE plunger strength becomes inconsistent. Some games you do not notice any changes.

Thanks very much for your help, I really appreciate it.

Hi Everyone,

We are happy to announce that we are now a distributor for Pingraffix PowerBladez. We are starting with an inventory of the Attack from Mars remake version. We cannot provide a discount on the product, but we can help with shipping, offering an initial flat rate of $4.99 within the U.S.

These can be found on our website.

https://lermods.com/products/attack-from-mars-remake-powerbladez-by-pingraffix

Indeed I am.

Looking to pick up a AFMR LE with green trim. Anyone selling one close to me (Pittsburgh)or any dealers with any left? May be interested in MBr LE as well if I can find dealer with both

If you have your game plugged into a UPS back up power bar, can that affect the amount of power you've got going to your games?

I feel like it's impossible sometimes to hit the ring in LOTR, and that's early in the game.

Did you upgrade your flipper coils on LOTR?

You just missed the one in Morristown and there is one in Texas for 7K.

Is it easy enough to remove the mirror blades from and LE and put these on?

Coin-Op Parts, Etc. appears to have an AFMr LE with green trim and is also selling MBr LEs. They are in Milford, CT.

Yes it is. Mirror blades are held on with one or two screws and the hinge bolt. Wouldnt take more than 5 minutes per side to get them out.

Pinball machines should be plugged directly into the wall.

Almost everything, including lightweight extension cords throttle back current or power.

Settings within the game will help to adjust for power variations.

But if your power continually changes while you are playing a game, it can be compensated for with a variac.

Otherwise you spend all of your time adjusting instead of playing.

Unexepectedly joined the club last night. Is there a list of needed fixes or things to check for on these? This is my second pin and my first modern one. But damn... this thing is fun and it beats the crap out of my old World Cup Soccer. It's going to take me a long time to master this thing.

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First rule...
If it ain't broke dont fix it .
Unless there is something obviously wrong .

Play it !

Yep, just play it and you'll find any potential issues quickly. But check out the technical thread. The first post has some initial things to check out:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/attack-from-mars-remake-afmr-technical-thread

Most important are to make sure you have the v2.0 SOL PIC and the non-cracking plastics. Most machines will probably be trouble-free besides those common issues.