(Topic ID: 192072)

Attack From Mars Remake (AFMr) Owners Club


By Pin_Guy

3 years ago



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#551 3 years ago

So "Flipper Delay" = "Fake News"

#552 3 years ago
Quoted from cooked71:

So "Flipper Delay" = "Fake News"

For this pinsider. But you might want to start up a poll.

#553 3 years ago
Quoted from Dr_Smith:

Just got my LE today and noticed two bolts and a thingamajig loose in the bottom of the box that I'm at a loss to figure out what they are for. Any ideas?
Also, what's the blue plastic thingy for that was in the bag with the power cord cover?

The long thin tool on the right is a flipper height tool.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8194

#554 3 years ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

Played a couple of AFMr and there is no flipper delay.

Agreed....starting to get the feel of this great machine...a great play, and zero flipper delay.

#555 3 years ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

Played a couple of AFMr and there is no flipper delay.

Where did you play them mate?

#556 3 years ago
Quoted from Dust2000:

Where did you play them mate?

Neil was at Pinburgh with me.
They had one there, so that would be my guess.
I have played 4 different models and did not notice any Flipper lag.

#557 3 years ago

Ummm, silly question...

How do I turn DOWN the volume on AFMr. Yes, using the coin door buttons I can raise and lower the volume - but the minimum volume seems to stop at Level "8". I do like it loud, but sometimes I need to turn it down just a bit.

I poked around the various settings; did not find anything. Playing with L-R flipper balance in CGC menus does nothing for overall volume as far as I can tell...

Guessing this is a most basic thing I cannot seem to find.

Help?

#558 3 years ago

D'oh, found it.

Minimum Volume Override: A.1 - 28 = Yes.

#559 3 years ago
Quoted from Dust2000:

Where did you play them mate?

USA. SF and at Pinburgh.

#560 3 years ago
Quoted from markp99:

D'oh, found it.
Minimum Volume Override: A.1 - 28 = Yes.

that got me at the start also, wonder why they had such a setting?

#561 3 years ago

Setup update:

Got ol' 186 out of the box and into the basement.

I removed the backbox to get it through the narrow basement door, which turned out to be extremely easy: 1 wood screw holding in the big cable sheath (be careful putting it back in), 1 ethernet connector, a couple of Molex connectors (for the speakers), and a bunch of PCB connectors.

I think I got them all in the attached pic. In any case, the majority of the connectors are in two large bundles that join into the big sheath, and they held their shape well enough that it only took a few glances at the pictures I took to make sure everything was back where it belonged.

I shoved everything into the main cabinet, and removed the sleeve nuts from the inside of the cab so I could remove the carriage bolts that hold the backbox on. Be careful: there is a small plastic spacer/washer between the backbox flange and the cabinet side. Getting that thing back into place was the hardest part of the whole adventure.

Naturally, replacing everything is the reverse of taking it apart.

Once it was set up, I put in a set of new balls from Marco's, as I have heard nothing good about balls that come with games. Maybe these are fine, but I had the new ones, and it's under five bucks.

After messing around a bit, I settled on 7.4 degrees, which seemed to give a nice balance. It was fast, and the game seemed to flow really well.

3 days and 290 plays later (new game!), I noticed some dust in an in-lane, so i decided to clean the playfield and give it a coat of wax.

Holy smokes! At 7.4 degrees with new wax, this thing just FLIES! I may actually shallow it out a bit, we'll see how the regular crowd reacts to it.

Over the course of four days, I have to say, I was really surprised at how much "settling in" the game has done. At first, it seemed like there were a few rattles here and there in some of the mechs, but everything seems to be on a trajectory toward being more solid and stable.

The one exception is that there is a bit of rattle on the playfield glass. I'm going to try the electrical tape trick and see how that works.

afmr-backbox removal connectors (resized).jpg

#562 3 years ago
Quoted from Zennmaster:

The one exception is that there is a bit of rattle on the playfield glass. I'm going to try the electrical tape trick and see how that works.

I adjusted the lockdown bar on mine so that the beer seal would compress and keep the glass from rattling, it took care of the issue.

#563 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

I adjusted the lockdown bar on mine so that the beer seal would compress and keep the glass from rattling, it took care of the issue.

I have to admit, I'm not sure what a Beer Seal is. Would you please elaborate? I'd love to do what you did. It seems small words would be appropriate.

#564 3 years ago

To get rid of the rattling you need to put tape on either side of the glass. I used a painters tape in Martian green . I also Dremmeled the lockbar receiver so that the playfield is perfectly centered in the cabinet. It was a bit tight on the one side and gappy on the other. Now it's perfect.

#565 3 years ago

20170903_090339_resized (resized).jpg

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#566 3 years ago
Quoted from Zennmaster:

I have to admit, I'm not sure what a Beer Seal is. Would you please elaborate? I'd love to do what you did. It seems small words would be appropriate.

Sorry, if you flip over your lockdown bar you see a rubber seal on the bottom of it, this seal is historically called a beer seal as it's primary function was to keep spilled beer out of the machine.

Now if you look at the previous post by SuperPinball, you can see the 2 brass screws on the lockdown rail, these screws are there for adjusting the height of the lockdown bar in its locked position; I do not believe this was adjusted at all on my machine when it left the factory. Couple this with a glass channel that is very smooth and a little wide and you have a loose piece of glass, by tightening the lockdown bar the rubber seal will press against the glass and keep it from moving. Over time, as you remove and re-insert the glass, the edges of the glass will scrap the inside of the channel, this scraping will cause additional friction on the glass and keep it from wanting to slide out on its own; when I first got my machine, the glass would want to slide right out from its own weight, after being removed around 10 times, the glass now stays put when I remove the lockdown bar.

#567 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Sorry, if you flip over your lockdown bar you see a rubber seal on the bottom of it, this seal is historically called a beer seal as it's primary function was to keep spilled beer out of the machine.
Now if you look at the previous post by SuperPinball, you can see the 2 brass screws on the lockdown rail, these screws are there for adjusting the height of the lockdown bar in its locked position; I do not believe this was adjusted at all on my machine when it left the factory. Couple this with a glass channel that is very smooth and a little wide and you have a loose piece of glass, by tightening the lockdown bar the rubber seal will press against the glass and keep it from moving. Over time, as you remove and re-insert the glass, the edges of the glass will scrap the inside of the channel, this scraping will cause additional friction on the glass and keep it from wanting to slide out on its own; when I first got my machine, the glass would want to slide right out from its own weight, after being removed around 10 times, the glass now stays put when I remove the lockdown bar.

Sometimes 2 layers of "beer seal" (foam weatherstrip)...

This works really well especially if you cant quite get adjusting the brass screws to fix it.

#568 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Sorry, if you flip over your lockdown bar you see a rubber seal on the bottom of it, this seal is historically called a beer seal as it's primary function was to keep spilled beer out of the machine.
Now if you look at the previous post by SuperPinball, you can see the 2 brass screws on the lockdown rail, these screws are there for adjusting the height of the lockdown bar in its locked position; I do not believe this was adjusted at all on my machine when it left the factory. Couple this with a glass channel that is very smooth and a little wide and you have a loose piece of glass, by tightening the lockdown bar the rubber seal will press against the glass and keep it from moving. Over time, as you remove and re-insert the glass, the edges of the glass will scrap the inside of the channel, this scraping will cause additional friction on the glass and keep it from wanting to slide out on its own; when I first got my machine, the glass would want to slide right out from its own weight, after being removed around 10 times, the glass now stays put when I remove the lockdown bar.

Oh, Ok, I get it now! That makes total sense, I'm sure mine wasn't adjusted either. I'll give it a shot, as the lockbar kind of feels a bit high anyway.

I have definitely witnessed the escaping glass. It's a little alarming at first, to be sure.

Thanks much!

#569 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Sorry, if you flip over your lockdown bar you see a rubber seal on the bottom of it, this seal is historically called a beer seal as it's primary function was to keep spilled beer out of the machine.
Now if you look at the previous post by SuperPinball, you can see the 2 brass screws on the lockdown rail, these screws are there for adjusting the height of the lockdown bar in its locked position; I do not believe this was adjusted at all on my machine when it left the factory. Couple this with a glass channel that is very smooth and a little wide and you have a loose piece of glass, by tightening the lockdown bar the rubber seal will press against the glass and keep it from moving. Over time, as you remove and re-insert the glass, the edges of the glass will scrap the inside of the channel, this scraping will cause additional friction on the glass and keep it from wanting to slide out on its own; when I first got my machine, the glass would want to slide right out from its own weight, after being removed around 10 times, the glass now stays put when I remove the lockdown bar.

I wanted to thank you for this simple and effective advice. The glass rattle was something that I was wondering what the best way to resolve was and this advice was it. Simple and a minute later the game is silent. Thank you!

#570 3 years ago

Had to walk away from the game today... Maybe I got to used to MM... Maybe I just flat out suck at pinball... But the drains in this game are absolutely punishing!

My average score is like 2-3 billion... Get my ass handed to me haha!

#571 3 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Had to walk away from the game today... Maybe I got to used to MM... Maybe I just flat out suck at pinball... But the drains in this game are absolutely punishing!
My average score is like 2-3 billion... Get my ass handed to me haha!

Its definitely more difficult and punishing when u miss shots compared to mm ..... that's y i like it lol . The code and difficulty are better imo.

#572 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Sorry, if you flip over your lockdown bar you see a rubber seal on the bottom of it, this seal is historically called a beer seal as it's primary function was to keep spilled beer out of the machine.
Now if you look at the previous post by SuperPinball, you can see the 2 brass screws on the lockdown rail, these screws are there for adjusting the height of the lockdown bar in its locked position; I do not believe this was adjusted at all on my machine when it left the factory. Couple this with a glass channel that is very smooth and a little wide and you have a loose piece of glass, by tightening the lockdown bar the rubber seal will press against the glass and keep it from moving. Over time, as you remove and re-insert the glass, the edges of the glass will scrap the inside of the channel, this scraping will cause additional friction on the glass and keep it from wanting to slide out on its own; when I first got my machine, the glass would want to slide right out from its own weight, after being removed around 10 times, the glass now stays put when I remove the lockdown bar.

Aaaaaaand... That did it! Thanks again!

#573 3 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Had to walk away from the game today... Maybe I got to used to MM... Maybe I just flat out suck at pinball... But the drains in this game are absolutely punishing!
My average score is like 2-3 billion... Get my ass handed to me haha!

Having he exact same feeling. Brutal compared to my mm. Couple that with unexplained rejections on both loops and I can get a little frustrated.

#574 3 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Had to walk away from the game today... Maybe I got to used to MM... Maybe I just flat out suck at pinball... But the drains in this game are absolutely punishing!
My average score is like 2-3 billion... Get my ass handed to me haha!

Ditto here...love this game!!!

#575 3 years ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

Ditto here...love this game!!!

When I look at the scoreboard on Pinside, and see guys with 80-100 billion, I'm like f#$& pinball!

My best score so far is 10 billion!

I created a post comparing MM to AFM, but now that I have both, I can definitely say that there differences are greater than the similarities... Even though they definitely have a LOT of similarities!

#576 3 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

When I look at the scoreboard on Pinside, and see guys with 80-100 billion, I'm like f#$& pinball!
My best score so far is 10 billion!
I created a post comparing MM to AFM, but now that I have both, I can definitely say that there differences are greater than the similarities... Even though they definitely have a LOT of similarities!

I like MM a lot, but AFMR smokes it, imho.....I haven't even made 9 billion yet, so don't feel bad....this machine is just a blast to play, but ruthless....I shall play better!!!

#577 3 years ago

Played my AFMr a ton this weekend. I am just loving this machine! Just plain fun. Easy and challenging at the same time.

The more I learn the rules and strategies the more I appreciate this machine. The LE light show and topper were attractors for me - I am just thrilled with this purchase.

Perfect.

/Happy Camper

Edit - Just as fun after a few glasses of wine, though my scores suffered a bit

#578 3 years ago

Maybe thats my problem, i need to switg from beer to wine!!! I am not even going to mention my high scores as I still have a factory GC on the board... Shameful but I will work on it. Once i start clearing ramp shots and orvits for Total Ann. I panic with too many options...i.e. Light locks for multiball, SOL....end up draining!!!!

#579 3 years ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

I like MM a lot, but AFMR smokes it, imho.....I haven't even made 9 billion yet, so don't feel bad....this machine is just a blast to play, but ruthless....I shall play better!!!

So I'm not the only one getting beat down by this machine haha!

I feel like any shot to the in the centre of the pf (posts, target, ship, etc.) has a 50% of heading straight down the middle. And anything that hit the slings is about the same, but right down the sides. It almost feels like the outline is twice as wide as the inlane, and the ball rarely ever bounces inside.

I have to play around with the angles a bit to find where I enjoy it best. Right now I have it set to 6.8 degrees. Is this normal though... Even though I align my digital level where the factory bubble level is at 6.8 degrees, when I move it up above the slings, I get like 6.3 degrees, and even less the higher I go.

So where is the "true" slant measured from? If you want "true" 6.5, where is that supposed to be?

#580 3 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Congrats on getting your game! It's pretty awesome!

The blue thingy is a flipper gap tool. You'll use this if you ever adjust or repair your flippers. For now, just put it away.

The two screws should have been accompanied by a black metal plate, and that goes on the back of the cab to cover the opening for the power supply.

Thanks, so far it's just what my collection needed.

flipper tool = better than the old credit card I've been usein' I guess

As for the screws, the ones in the picture are not the same ones from the bag that goes with the plate/cord. These two screws were just laying loose on the bottom of the box along with that other metal "whatchamajiger thingy" pictured.

#581 3 years ago

Could someone tell me where the serial number would be located for the SE? thanks

#582 3 years ago

Without reading through the entire thread, can the LED brightness for GI and inserts be turned down?

Rob

#583 3 years ago
Quoted from Rob_G:

Without reading through the entire thread, can the LED brightness for GI and inserts be turned down?

yes. I turned down my GI brightness a notch.

#584 3 years ago
Quoted from ZenTron:

Could someone tell me where the serial number would be located for the SE? thanks

It should be on the MFG label located on the outside of the cabinet.

serial plate (resized).jpg

#585 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

It should be on the MFG label located on the outside of the cabinet.

thanks

#586 3 years ago

mine is also labeled inside the coin door.

Quoted from Pin_Guy:It should be on the MFG label located on the outside of the cabinet.

#587 3 years ago

Hey guys,
I'm jacked to be joining the club, possibly later today if things work out.

Around extra protection, whats the consensus?

I was thinking moving target and mothership and ramps?
Do I need SOL and switch protection in the outholes or lanes?

Thanks!

#588 3 years ago
Quoted from gjm7777:

Hey guys,
I'm jacked to be joining the club, possibly later today if things work out.
Around extra protection, whats the consensus?
I was thinking moving target and mothership and ramps?
Do I need SOL and switch protection in the outholes or lanes?
Thanks!

No need for ramp ones as they are protected from factory on original and remake. I wld defenitly add all the others .

#589 3 years ago
Quoted from Quadrat:

The back box key is on the inside of the coin door on a hook. You only get one.

Just arrived! No back box key for me though. Checked inside coin door very carefully and then inside cabinet thinking it may have come loose. No luck, so no topper. Awesome game so far though!!! Pics soon.

#590 3 years ago
Quoted from DavidMP:

No back box key for me though.

Please open a ticket under Support - http://www.chicago-gaming.com/

LTG : )

#591 3 years ago
Quoted from DavidMP:

Just arrived! No back box key for me though. Checked inside coin door very carefully and then inside cabinet thinking it may have come loose. No luck, so no topper. Awesome game so far though!!! Pics soon.

Take a look again. I did the same thing and was positive it wasn't there. After walking away and posting basically the same disappointed message I found it later. It is well camouflaged in there.

#592 3 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

No need for ramp ones as they are protected from factory on original and remake. I wld defenitly add all the others .

Thanks, I'll see about the others then.

Sadly at least 3 of the main plastics have cracking paint out of the box so ill have to open a ticket.

Im getting some crazy airballs off the mothership and center martian targets, like jumping over the flippers once in a while crazy. Should I be looking to adjust these or is that normal?

All in all though this game is amazingly fun and im very happy.

#593 3 years ago

Question for anyone with a green LE. My lockdown bar locks like it was painted with a brush. It's not smooth like the gold on my MMR, you can actually see the lines through it.

Is this normal?

#594 3 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Is this normal?

No. Please open a ticket on the support desk and add pictures. Go to chicago-gaming.com

LTG : )

#595 3 years ago
Quoted from DavidMP:

Just arrived! No back box key for me though. Checked inside coin door very carefully and then inside cabinet thinking it may have come loose. No luck, so no topper. Awesome game so far though!!! Pics soon.

The key is hard to spot.
Its on a buried hook above the left coin mech (with door open). I couldnt find it either but I found it a day later.

#596 3 years ago
Quoted from gjm7777:

Thanks, I'll see about the others then.
Sadly at least 3 of the main plastics have cracking paint out of the box so ill have to open a ticket.
Im getting some crazy airballs off the mothership and center martian targets, like jumping over the flippers once in a while crazy. Should I be looking to adjust these or is that normal?
All in all though this game is amazingly fun and im very happy.

Raise the playfield pitch a little and turn down the flippers 1 notch.

#597 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

The key is hard to spot.
Its on a buried hook above the left coin mech (with door open). I couldnt find it either but I found it a day later.

Yeah, I'd read posts about it weeks ago. So I knew where to look and how it was supposed to be difficult to find. And then I've gone back a few times to really really check. It just isn't there. I did open a ticket just a little bit ago and am sure they'll get me sorted out. I may end up taking the lock off via the two screws I see up there. That way I can connect the topper!

#598 3 years ago
Quoted from DavidMP:

Yeah, I'd read posts about it weeks ago. So I knew where to look and how it was supposed to be difficult to find. And then I've gone back a few times to really really check. It just isn't there. I did open a ticket just a little bit ago and am sure they'll get me sorted out. I may end up taking the lock off via the two screws I see up there. That way I can connect the topper!

Post a pic of the area of the coin door, it might be a fun "Where's Waldo" game for us!

#599 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Post a pic of the area of the coin door, it might be a fun "Where's Waldo" game for us!

OK, so if someone finds a key in here I'll re-up my donation to pinside! (Ah heck, that's too safe a bet. I'll go do that anyway.)

CoinDoor1 (resized).JPG

CoinDoor2 (resized).JPG

#600 3 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Question for anyone with a green LE. My lockdown bar locks like it was painted with a brush. It's not smooth like the gold on my MMR, you can actually see the lines through it.
Is this normal?

Green lock bar.

IMG_0073.JPG

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