Quoted from pintechev:Nothing to be concerned about.
Thanks guys.. I think having to replace a circuit board already on this machine has made me a bit paranoid.
Quoted from pintechev:Nothing to be concerned about.
Thanks guys.. I think having to replace a circuit board already on this machine has made me a bit paranoid.
Quoted from Wildbill327:Joined the club last night, can’t wait to dig into this beauty.
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Congrats ! Looks beautiful in black trim.
So, after literally hating this machine, I finally succumbed and closed down the outlanes. Within a day I have FINALLY RTU after owning since almost the beginning. What a huge difference the outlanes make. All else is factory.
7B1AF5CA-91F3-449D-90EF-E1461477C227 (resized).jpegA8606E5B-E390-45A5-8B27-E9C3442F71E8 (resized).jpegCBD0D64D-51A3-443B-8DB7-D263FB7B4C2C (resized).jpeg
Ps I left them open a tiny bit so I could keep a shred of pride in the win...
Quoted from ausretrogamer:The white glove treatment for my precious
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Quoted from paynemic:So, after literally hating this machine, I finally succumbed and closed down the outlanes. Within a day I have FINALLY RTU after owning since almost the beginning. What a huge difference the outlanes make. All else is factory.
8 months later I've grappled with that many many times. If I still haven't RTU before Christmas eve, after the kids are asleep and the presents are nestled under the tree, santa claus will be shortening up my outlanes too...
Merry Christmas, return to battle soldier
Quoted from stavio:8 months later I've grappled with that many many times. If I still haven't RTU before Christmas eve, after the kids are asleep and the presents are nestled under the tree, santa claus will be shortening up my outlanes too...
Merry Christmas, return to battle soldier
Do it! I closed mine up pretty much straight out of the box. Ended up getting to rtu a couple of times. Then I gave myself a challenge and opened the lanes to factory setting. It took me awhile but I eventually got to rtu and it felt pretty rewarding.
Quoted from mrWol64:305 says Hi.. (just had the Eat at Eddy’s mod treatment)
*waves* hi!
Kudos on the EAE mod
Quoted from Wildbill327:Joined the club last night, can’t wait to dig into this beauty.
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Congratulations WildBill!... what number did you got please?
Hmm, on the outlanes this pin eats me alive. I have it set for extra ball at 4,000,000,000 and seldom get there.
Quoted from Rolls-Royce:Congratulations WildBill!... what number did you got please?
I have only have one pin so far... but I decided to save up for one of these bad boys. I can't wait to make the plunge! Tell me I am doing good!!!! lol
I'll be joining you guys soon! I have an SE on order from PinballSTAR and it should be shipping early next week! It will look great next to my BK2K.
Does anyone have any tips on setting it up? This will be my first NIB pinball machine.
I'll probably put on the PinBits fluorescent plastic protectors after I test the game out, and I might install the drop-target and shooter/ball eject Cliffys - those seem to stand out less than the others and not cover any artwork; I'm sure the SOL and mothership holes will be fine with the factory Mantis-style protectors.
Quoted from Captain-Flint:I have only have one pin so far... but I decided to save up for one of these bad boys. I can't wait to make the plunge! Tell me I am doing good!!!! lol
Nothing bad about that at all! If it makes you happy that's what counts. What else is money for?
Quoted from Davedigger:What do you mean by close the outlanes?
See paynemic's picture I used.
This is the right side of the game, left side is the same. See the gap the red arrow points to ? The post in that hole is bolted underneath the playfield. Loosen the locknut on it, move the post back makes the outlane more open, move the post forward ( direction of yellow arrow ) makes the outlane closed.
Closed outlane, smaller gap, harder to drain a ball into the outlane. Open outlane, bigger gap, easier to drain the ball in the outlane.
LTG : )
44002e95cc5c09c36645ad48258a282006fb4de1.jpeg (resized).jpgQuoted from ctviss:I'll be joining you guys soon! I have an SE on order from PinballSTAR and it should be shipping early next week! It will look great next to my BK2K.
Does anyone have any tips on setting it up? This will be my first NIB pinball machine.
I'll probably put on the PinBits fluorescent plastic protectors after I test the game out, and I might install the drop-target and shooter/ball eject Cliffys - those seem to stand out less than the others and not cover any artwork; I'm sure the SOL and mothership holes will be fine with the factory Mantis-style protectors.
I would strongly suggest the Cliffy treatment for the Mothership and force field. After about 4,000 plays, the only spot I saw noticeable wear was on the Mothership hole, and the plywood there had gotten pretty soft. Did the factory start putting a protector on there? Mine didn't come with one, but my LE was from an early batch, as far as I can tell. As for the force field, the Cliffy actually looks quite natural, and blends in with the art nicely. As an added bonus: prior to putting in the Cliffy, I would occasionally have a ball stick in the groove where the target bank had dropped. It happened enough that I had a standard practice to get it loose. With the Cliffy, that behavior has been reduced by about 90%.
So far, the SOL hole is looking good, but I've got the Cliffy waiting in the wings (by "wings" I mean the coin box) for the day when I can see wear.
Otherwise, the setup is pretty painless, and for most folks it's fine out of the box: just clean the oil off of the balls and have at.
Some people (me included) find the flipper droop to be a bit weird, and then there is the eternal outlane struggle.
You've got a great game on the way, have fun with it!
Quoted from Zennmaster:I would strongly suggest the Cliffy treatment for the Mothership and force field. After about 4,000 plays, the only spot I saw noticeable wear was on the Mothership hole, and the plywood there had gotten pretty soft. Did the factory start putting a protector on there? Mine didn't come with one, but my LE was from an early batch, as far as I can tell. As for the force field, the Cliffy actually looks quite natural, and blends in with the art nicely. As an added bonus: prior to putting in the Cliffy, I would occasionally have a ball stick in the groove where the target bank had dropped. It happened enough that I had a standard practice to get it loose. With the Cliffy, that behavior has been reduced by about 90%.
So far, the SOL hole is looking good, but I've got the Cliffy waiting in the wings (by "wings" I mean the coin box) for the day when I can see wear.
Otherwise, the setup is pretty painless, and for most folks it's fine out of the box: just clean the oil off of the balls and have at.
Some people (me included) find the flipper droop to be a bit weird, and then there is the eternal outlane struggle.
You've got a great game on the way, have fun with it!
Thanks! I could have sworn I saw/read that there was a Mantis protector on the mothership hole, but I could be mistaken. Either way, I'll order a full set of Cliffys and install everything but the SOL ones unless I start to see wear.
I'm pretty excited about it! I debated a long time between the SE and LE (a place in CT has the Martian Green in stock) but it was hard to swallow the ~$700 price difference - the topper looks awesome but to me it's more of a novelty, and I could always add LEDs to the mini-saucers. $700 goes a long way towards parts and mods, or a third machine!
Quoted from ctviss:Thanks! I could have sworn I saw/read that there was a Mantis protector on the mothership hole, but I could be mistaken. Either way, I'll order a full set of Cliffys and install everything but the SOL ones unless I start to see wear.
I'm pretty excited about it! I debated a long time between the SE and LE (a place in CT has the Martian Green in stock) but it was hard to swallow the ~$700 price difference - the topper looks awesome but to me it's more of a novelty, and I could always add LEDs to the mini-saucers. $700 goes a long way towards parts and mods, or a third machine!
Can you add LEDs to the saucers? Not sure that's possible right now at least not for sale that I'm aware of. The LE will hold its value much better too . Just s thought
Has anyone set their flippers so that they do not droop, and if so did it change the shot angles in a good way or a bad way?
Quoted from Wildbill327:Has anyone set their flippers so that they do not droop, and if so did it change the shot angles in a good way or a bad way?
Neither good or bad just different.
Changes the character of the game to something else.
With the droop as designed I find that it easier for me to make 8 way combo's.
I find that its easier to hit the side targets and orbits.
Quoted from Wildbill327:Has anyone set their flippers so that they do not droop, and if so did it change the shot angles in a good way or a bad way?
I set them so the tops of the bats are in-line with the flipper ball guides. It was a change of MAYBE three degrees, but now that I say it, that seems like a lot. It feels way better to me, though. The only drawback I've found is that when I play on location, it takes me a while to adjust.
Who am I kidding, I look like a complete idiot, since everyone I'm with knows I own one!
I adjusted the flippers to less droop, no problem making any shots and I am actually think it's an improvement.
Adjusted maybe one mm above the guide holes.
Quoted from rai:I adjusted the flippers to less droop, no problem making any shots and I am actually think it's an improvement.
Adjusted maybe one mm above the guide holes.
When I look at the shot angles with a square and laser level line, I see that some shots that are a part of the game do not add up.
If those shots are intentionally impossible, I ignore adjusting for them.
If the shots are challenging and makeable I adjust to get the ball on the flat of the flipper, even if its only a fraction of a mm on the tip.
1mm plus or minus is what I do on all my games.
Sometimes I adjust to get a more natural flow off of an orbit so that you can repeat it a little more consistently.
WOZ I have at minus 1mm to help make the crystal ball and throne room shots slightly more accessible.
Right now I have my Houdini at minus 2mm and it plays a lot better, makes the impossible shots possible. I might change it to minus 1.5mm after a few more games. Reminds me of ToM flippers that are perfect at the factory slight droop being centered instead of inline with the guides.
But in all cases I keep the designer in mind of what he might have been thinking, and make tiny adjustments over all.
Big adjustments I think change the game too much and it loses the character of it all.
The adjustment holes are in a different area than what I’m use to(stern). Not exactly sure how to adjust them, should the flipper bat touch the hole with or without the rubber on it? My flippers are off from each other, one I can see the hole and the other I can’t. Any advice on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for all the info so far as I’m new to this club and want to get this baby just right.
Quoted from delt31:Can you add LEDs to the saucers? Not sure that's possible right now at least not for sale that I'm aware of. The LE will hold its value much better too . Just s thought
Where there's a will there's a way... I could certainly add LEDs to the mini-saucers and tie them in to the mothership or GI (or design my own controller that matches the behavior on the LE). I heard that CGC may be selling an upgrade kit for that at some point, though.
Good point on value, but I never plan on selling the machine so that's not a huge concern for me.
Quoted from Wildbill327:The adjustment holes are in a different area than what I’m use to(stern). Not exactly sure how to adjust them, should the flipper bat touch the hole with or without the rubber on it? My flippers are off from each other, one I can see the hole and the other I can’t. Any advice on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for all the info so far as I’m new to this club and want to get this baby just right.
Put a toothpick in the hole between the rubber and the bat so that the bats are held in place by the hole and rubber.
This makes for fairly easy adjustment.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Put a toothpick in the hole between the rubber and the bat so that the bats are held in place by the hole and rubber.
This makes for fairly easy adjustment.
this would be a droopy setup (IMO)
see picture in #5804 and you can see the holes a bit below the rubber. This is how I have mine set up.
Quoted from rai:this would be a droopy setup (IMO)
see picture in #5804 and you can see the holes a bit below the rubber. This is how I have mine set up.
Well, its the factory setup, at least at first.
Later adjust as needed.
Fellas... “Eat at Eddy’s" in stock now!
Ordered mine with an Atomic blaster...(I know that someone said that it’ll never work).
Quoted from billsfanmd:thx. yeah the decal got torn and wrinkled about an inch seems the cab is a close black. not much i could do except remove the torn section. about the size of a quarter. Not much i can do but michelle did send me a claim form.
can a small section be patched ? get a new right side section ?
Quick question. Claim has been put in and I had to put a $ amount. Thinking if I could just get a right side cab decal I can keep it with the game and eventually swap or include with game later. Anyone know how much one side cab decal would cost? I guess I could email Chicago gaming and try and buy cab decal?
Quoted from billsfanmd:Quick question. Claim has been put in and I had to put a $ amount. Thinking if I could just get a right side cab decal I can keep it with the game and eventually swap or include with game later. Anyone know how much one side cab decal would cost? I guess I could email Chicago gaming and try and buy cab decal?
I think most pinball repair services would be comfortable at repairing the cabinet for $600 including the decal.
Maybe less.
That is what I put as the value of the damage.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I think most pinball repair services would be comfortable at repairing the cabinet for $600 including the decal.
Maybe less.
That is what I put as the value of the damage.
did you have damage in shipping ?
Yes, I have the same thing on mine.
Quoted from mjannusch:I just noticed last night that there are hairline cracks in the coloration in the return lane covers. Anyone else seeing this? I didn't notice it on any of the other plastics, but these you see all the time... I haven't touched these at all, so it isn't from me overtightening the nuts or something screwy like that.
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Quoted from jkashani:Yes, I have the same thing on mine.
CGC was replacing those under warranty if you reach out for support.
Marc
Quoted from pintechev:CGC was replacing those under warranty if you reach out for support.
Marc
Me to , who do we call or contact ?
Quoted from golfingdad1:Me to , who do we call or contact ?
Chicago Gaming through their support website.
Quoted from jkashani:Yes, I have the same thing on mine.
That's an ink adhesion failure from screening the PET-G plastic. They've been replacing it under warranty.
Quoted from lmgesser:My AFM Remake has a sticky left flipper. It flips but doesn't come back down to rest position. Any idea how I can fix this? THANKS
Check the return springs
Quoted from lmgesser:My AFM Remake has a sticky left flipper. It flips but doesn't come back down to rest position. Any idea how I can fix this? THANKS
Return spring as noted above or debris buildup in the coil sleeve?
It should move very freely and have the spring attached.
Return springs are okay. Shouldn't be debris buildup I would think. Game only has about 100 plays on it.
Quoted from lmgesser:Return springs are okay. Shouldn't be debris buildup
Does the flipper bat move freely when you move it by hand?
Quoted from lmgesser:Return springs are okay. Shouldn't be debris buildup I would think. Game only has about 100 plays on it.
Had this happen with my MMR. For me, there was binding, so I had to remove the coil sleeve, clean it, and then everything worked fine.
Quoted from lmgesser:Return springs are okay. Shouldn't be debris buildup I would think. Game only has about 100 plays on it.
I have seen plastic shavings and debris in coil sleeves in brand new games as well as improperly installed flipper mechs and defective coil stops.
So. If its binding, take it apart and investigate.
Quoted from lmgesser:Any idea how I can fix this?
Be sure it has a tiny bit of up and down play ( not back and forth ) the pawl may be binding below the playfield on the nylon bushing the flipper shaft rides in.
LTG : )
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