Oh boy,,, my AFMr LE just took a dump. I’m not sure what even happened, was playing when suddenly it just stopped. I heard some coils firing and now it seems the lamps aren’t working. GI and flashers will when I test. I have these errors;

Left outlane switch 16, right return switch 17, left return, right outlane switch 27, left top lane switch 38, EOS is stuck closed right flipper, EOS stuck close left flipper, check motor bank up SW broken, ground short row 6 white-blue R6, ground short row 7 white-violet R7

Yikes! Not even sure where to start. A power supply blown?

Power cord in tight at the wall ? Check driver board in head - LEDs for fuses all on ?

http://www.chicago-gaming.com/support.php Open a ticket on the support/help desk.

LTG : )

Interesting you’d mention the power cord. I did unplug it from the power strip for a few days because I needed the strip for something else temporarily (it wasn’t plugged in nor played) and it broke first game after plugging it back in that strip and then the wall. Everything seems ok with that.

All the fuse LEDs are on except F105 and F106. I took both out and checked and they were fine. The game is acting like there are no balls in it. I filled out a ticket with CG.

I alerted it to the engineer to try and figure out what went so wrong.

LTG : )

I had to adjust the center trough switch and make sure its centered in the trough slit and set more sensitive to fix this. Make sure the switch lever is resting as close as possible on the green button. Make sure the wire goes up high enough into the trough so the ball can’t roll over it without tripping the switch. Make sure the part where the metal wire gets thicker doesn’t ever catch on the slit in the trough.
4871863D-48A7-4F20-8200-1CD510B4E5A4 (resized).jpeg

Thanks Lloyd

Going on one month ownership, have played 100 games (was on vacation for 2 weeks) that is a good number for me to play in what amounts to 2 weeks.

I have some observations, first is average ball times 49 seconds, not sure my average score but most games seems to be just over or below 1,000,000,000 points.

Initially I was concerned that the game (rules) would be too basic, but they are not, the rules are fun and challenging to me, I am not getting too far in my games maybe light 5-way combo a handful of times and super pops the same number. I have yet to destroy Mars or get the super jackpot but was in the hunt for that.

So all the parts of the game I am able to do (except for destroy Mars, super JP and TA but close to all three) but not put them all together in one game.

I have it sitting right next to my IMVE and I can see the similarities in gameplay, pace and rules.

All said, I am happy with the game. I had owned several B/W games but they were all players condition and the looks between those type players condition and this nib are night and day. Also when I did own those older pins was between 5 and 15 years ago and I was not really as knowledgeable about the rules as I am today. So I can't say as I enjoyed those older pins TZ, T2, IJ etc. to the fullest as if I had them today. So I am glad to revisit an older game with older rules and such but in a new wrapper.

Narrow the outlanes fully.
No other adjustments are really needed other than coil power tweaks depending on your location.

The ball times will go up a bit to maybe 70 seconds and get fewer cheap drains on the right outlane.

I think it plays better at home this way.

I recently obtained an AFMR LE and accidentally severed the under cab lighting. I intended to take out the existing connection to the lighting in the game and came across what you see in the pics. It looks stock to me as it is neatly wired. I assume that the exposed end is the adapter for the LED lights. Please advise.

IMG_2162 (resized).JPG

IMG_2163 (resized).JPG

Don't recognize it. Talk to who you got it from. AFMR LE doesn't come with under cabinet lighting.

LTG : )

When I got the game, I found the side drains to be a real joy kill, so I moved the posts into the lowest position. Ended up getting to RTU about 2-3 times, and recently decided that I wanted to put it back to the default position and see how I'd do. Definitely brought my average ball time and score down a lot!

But tonight, for the first time, I got RTU and it felt like I really earned it!

Despite some of the issues I've had in the past with CGC, there is no doubting that this is one hell of a fun game!

And that topper!!!

Wow this is a long thread. I’ve been searching for this particular issue but can’t find any info on it.

My ball lock diverter is getting stuck on the left metal guide. It somewhat wedges up on it and I have to physically free it up. Any known fixes for this? Thanks.

Bend or file the end a little so it can't hook anything.

LTG : )

Just pulled off Dirty Pool! I love this game!

Just so I know?

To get Dirty Pool, attack wave started, then start multiball, complete attack wave and get ball behind force field before it raises then hit force field bank?

IMO the rules are great. I was worried rules were too simple compared to newer games like Woz, TWD etc.. but the rules are simple but have a lot to do as well. I had STLE which had many more modes but AFM is more fun even with somewhat basic rules. Some of my favorite pins have short/simple rules like AFM, IM and Tron.

There was a lot going on and lots of lot blue lamps lit afterwards but I think that was the sequence of events. The key being the barrier was up, I was in Multiball, had a ball jump another to pop over the barrier and land in the pocket so to speak and blow up the saucer again. It was almost magical and I am super impressed that they would program for such a unlikely event. Super cool.

Reminds me when I hade IJ and a ball could jump over the drop target into the subway.

“You cheat Dr Jones!”

Mostly...the mothership hole will still be open while the force field starts to come up so you have to kind of rattle a ball up there so that it doesn't also go into the hole. Once a ball comes to rest behind the forcefield you have to shoot a ball into the forcefield and get the force to knock the ball behind it into the opened mothership hole, once my ball landed in there with the forcefield up I got dirty pool.

My saucer up-kicker sometimes misses and need to re kick.

Is there a setting to adjust?

In the CGC sub-menus.
Hold escape button inside the coin door for a few seconds to get to the CGC menu.

Go into CGC menu. You are looking for left popper to make stronger or weaker as needed.

Instructions for CGC menu start on page 1-10 in the manual, or this video will help :

LTG : )

Absolutely a genuine play, but likely a little of both in that you have achieved a bug by getting a ball to sit in that spot after the field is up...clearly a coder just had some fun with it. Apparently you can even take down Mars itself via Dirty Pool but I've never managed that.

It's genuine all right. It's a call back to TAF, which has a "Dirty Pool" callout around the bookcase. AFM also has an animation for it. It just flashes "DIRTY POOL" a couple of times, but it's there.

Not aiming for the bank, can keep your multiball go on for awhile too

Has anyone installed the 3D translite? If so did it need to be altered in any way to fit?

No.

LTG : )

Please expand on your answer....

It does not require any alteration to fit.

The original translite and the 3D one are the same size.

S O N O A L T E R A T I O N N E E D E D

LTG : )

I thought no was fairly direct jkashani lol

Wtf man...

You guys take yourself too seriously and cannot perceive a joke. I have a suggestion: less pinball more alcohol and all will be OK.

Didn't sound like a joke. Maybe a would help you next time.

Oh, we’ve gotta bust your chops!

Do the mini saucers on the LE have more colors on them than the SE ?
I am still on original code , but noticed an LE this weekend and thought it looked different...

http://www.chicago-gaming.com/afm.php Read up on the differences here. Bi Color on LE only.

LTG : )

Thanks again dude

Oddball question here. Is there a program setting for the TILT sensitivity/timing in the menus?
Just seams like the tilt will jump through the first two tilt warnings and go right to tilt from a small nudge. Or maybe it's just me.

anyway to make the display on the LE brighter or the call outs louder?

In adjustments - Settings - A.1 2 , one to ten warnings for tilt.

LTG : )

No.

LTG : )

I haven't seen the need for a brighter display. All the games I have seen seem to be plenty bright and have plenty of color saturation.

As far as the audio goes, there are some great audio adjustments in the menu to dial in the audio for more clarity. At the same time the volume is plenty loud as far as I have seen.

But your tastes may.

Try playing around with the subwoofer presence settings.

Pinnovators has just released a headphone adapter for afmr.

I'm using one consistently and I find that it helps me to focus on the game a little better especially if there are other games being played in my game room.

I really like it and recommend anybody who has this title pick one up.

where in the menu? CGC or standard?

Ignore me. pinballinreno has a good post about it.

LTG : )

In the CGC menu.

Page 10 in the manual, subwoofer settings.
Use left and right flipper to adjust the subwoofer presence.

Use this in conjunction with the bally volume adjustment in the other menu.
I have it set pretty much to my liking and everything is pretty clear and crisp.
I also wanted more bass in the martian voices, I think I have it set at +3 right now.

manual_pg10 (resized).JPG

Thank you for posting that. I missed it because you can't adjust the other things on the first page of the CGC stuff.

I'm going back over to the POTC beer thread see if I can still get in.

LTG : )

LOL, your welcome!

Actually Rick showed it to me when I played the sample game as his place. I wanted more bass!

If you want a .pdf of the manual to make searching it much easier, get it here while its still up:

http://files.winwithp1ag.com/products/pinball-machines/Chicago-Gaming-Attack-From-Mars-Remake-Pinball-Manual.pdf

this was really helpful. Now it sounds much better (it was -10 before)...