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(Topic ID: 192072)

Attack From Mars Remake (AFMr) Owners Club


By Pin_Guy

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 8,932 posts
  • 556 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 18 hours ago by nicoy3k
  • Topic is favorited by 266 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

26 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 8932 posts in this topic. You are on page 101 of 179.
#5001 2 years ago

As I understand it the LE has a board for the topper to connect to,.. and the SE doesnt have it (could be wrong),.. so it may only be able to sit inert on top for an SE,... still looks pretty cool though

#5002 2 years ago
Quoted from Cidco:

I honestly have no idea. But I had seen this listing on The Ministry of Pinball website and assumed Chicago Gaming had made them available at some point, otherwise why would they list it separately at all?

Looks like a wishful-thinking placeholder with a 0.00 price.

#5003 2 years ago
Quoted from Cidco:

I honestly have no idea. But I had seen this listing on The Ministry of Pinball website and assumed Chicago Gaming had made them available at some point, otherwise why would they list it separately at all?

That would be pretty bad if they sold these separately considering most of the reason for buying an LE was to get this topper..

#5004 2 years ago
Quoted from mrWol64:

As I understand it the LE has a board for the topper to connect to,.. and the SE doesnt have it (could be wrong),.. so it may only be able to sit inert on top for an SE,... still looks pretty cool though

You are correct, the SE does NOT have the board for the topper.

#5005 2 years ago

What can be done to keep the ball from hopping over to the outlanes when exiting the ramps?

#5006 2 years ago
Quoted from ulmpharmd:

What can be done to keep the ball from hopping over to the outlanes when exiting the ramps?

What exactly do you mean by “hopping over”? Do you mean if you let the ball hit the flipper from the ramp?

#5007 2 years ago

The ball keeps bouncing from the inlane to the outlane when it drops from the left and right ramps

#5008 2 years ago
Quoted from ulmpharmd:

The ball keeps bouncing from the inlane to the outlane when it drops from the left and right ramps

Can you pleas take a video and share it here?

#5009 2 years ago

Oh ok the wire return ramps. Obvious question but have you checked to make sure the playfield is level? And the pitch is in a good range (look at the bubble level on the right side wall)

#5010 2 years ago

The board is small and could be included with the topper. CGC is remaking all the classics. I don't think they'd have any problems remaking their own topper.

#5011 2 years ago

The topper won't be offered separately according to Doug at CGC.

Quoted from CGC_DougS:

4. There are no plans to sell the LE topper separately. The topper will be held to only those that buy LE’s We are looking at the possibility offering the mini saucer LED as an upgrade, but this will not be for several months.

Best Regards,
Doug

#5012 2 years ago
Quoted from DeeGor:

The board is small and could be included with the topper. CGC is remaking all the classics. I don't think they'd have any problems remaking their own topper.

It could be. But it’s a LE thing and therefore won’t be.

#5013 2 years ago
Quoted from Marcdaddy:

Guys what flipper strength are you playing on? I can't seem to find a setting that makes it seem to shoot well. I'm updated and it seems like the shots are just off, I'm still having that stdm when ejecting from the sol ( need to send a support ticket again ) on any strength setting.

After a lot of testing and adjusting my flippers are on default setting.
I had to side drill out the holes on the scoop 3/32" each to get it in the correct position to fire consistently on to the left flipper.

I had to twist it firmly so that it's tight against the sides while tightening the screws.

The whole adjustment took 10 mins.

It's well worth it.

My pitch is at 6.6 degrees.

The game plays perfectly.

Making the shots takes practice.

It's a feeling of shooting a little late compared to other games due to the slight downward angle of the flippers.

I wouldn't adjust the flippers up as it will be harder to hit the side Martian targets.

#5014 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

After a lot of testing and adjusting my flippers are on default setting.
I had to side drill out the holes on the scoop 3/32" each to get it in the correct position to fire consistently on to the left flipper.
I had to twist it firmly so that it's tight against the sides while tightening the screws.
The whole adjustment took 10 mins.
It's well worth it.
My pitch is at 6.6 degrees.
The game plays perfectly.
Making the shots takes practice.
It's a feeling of shooting a little late compared to other games due to the slight downward angle of the flippers.
I wouldn't adjust the flippers up as it will be harder to hit the side Martian targets.

THANKS for the response in such detail. My MMR played perfectly out of the box and I guess that's pinball if your not tweaking something. Ill try the washer trick first since its the least invasive.

#5015 2 years ago
Quoted from Marcdaddy:

THANKS for the response in such detail. My MMR played perfectly out of the box and I guess that's pinball if your not tweaking something. Ill try the washer trick first since its the least invasive.

Pinball machines are "Hand Made".
When they are assembled on the line, tiny variations occur in spite of the use of jigs and alignment tools.

Kickout scoops are one of these items that are impossible to get exactly right off the line.

Only through numerous plays does one find out what needs adjustment once the game is settling in on a location.

Since the scoops are set squarely with screws and a drill gun on the line, the installer has only a limited view of how it functions "In-Play".

I havent "Not" had to adjust one in any game I have come across.

Drop target assemblies and stand-up targets can also be adjusted if they are not exactly straight and deflect the ball in an undesired angle.

I see this alot in location games. There will be a stand-up or another target that continually bounces to a "cheap drain" instead of going to the tip of a flipper.

Side drilling the holes on the mounting brackets is the acceptable way of correcting misaligned screws.
There is no easy way to move the screws once they are installed, there is just no room.

#5016 2 years ago

Which setting decreases the power of the kickout from the Saucer, it seems like it flies halfway to the flippers lol.

#5017 2 years ago
Quoted from Marcdaddy:

Which setting decreases the power of the kickout from the Saucer, it seems like it flies halfway to the flippers lol.

Page 1-15 in the manual. Step through the CGC menu to the part with Game Features Menu, Left Popper, Right Popper, Martian, strengths. Lower your right popper power.

LTG : )

#5018 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Page 1-15 in the manual. Step through the CGC menu to the part with Game Features Menu, Left Popper, Right Popper, Martian, strengths. Lower your right popper power.
LTG : )

So the Right popper strength controls the SOL eject and the saucer kickout?

#5019 2 years ago
Quoted from Marcdaddy:

So the Right popper strength controls the SOL eject and the saucer kickout?

Right popper is the SOL. By saucer kickout do you mean when you go in the hole behind the drop target and the ball kicks out the chute to the left onto the wireform ? Is so, that would be the Left Popper.

LTG : )

11
#5020 2 years ago

Mezelmods is making a building to cover the VUK. This is just the prototype so it will have more detail. We have other mods coming to so look for my thread soon.

IMG_2664 (resized).JPG

#5021 2 years ago
Quoted from Tmezel:

Mezelmods is making a building to cover the VUK. This is just the prototype so it will have more detail. We have other mods coming to so look for my thread soon.

Hot damn

#5022 2 years ago
Quoted from JJHLH:

They are connected to the GI and turn on and off with it. I’m not sure if they dim, but I don’t think they do. Could be wrong about that though. They are also connected to a flasher so there is an additional UV flash that occurs when the game flashes. It’s so much fun to play in the dark like this.
The game is blinged out to begin with and now it’s really blinged, haha!

I’ve got two sets of pin stadium lights that I haven’t installed yet. I think you just convinced me to put one in AFMR.

#5023 2 years ago
Quoted from Tmezel:

Mezelmods is making a building to cover the VUK. This is just the prototype so it will have more detail. We have other mods coming to so look for my thread soon.

Ooooooh, that looks nice!

#5024 2 years ago

one of the best mods

#5025 2 years ago
Quoted from Tmezel:

Mezelmods is making a building to cover the VUK. This is just the prototype so it will have more detail. We have other mods coming to so look for my thread soon.

It looks amazing! I’m in for mine and another for my Brother’s L.E., are you going to add some small flames on top of that roof too?

#5026 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Pinball machines are "Hand Made".
When they are assembled on the line, tiny variations occur in spite of the use of jigs and alignment tools.
Kickout scoops are one of these items that are impossible to get exactly right off the line.
Only through numerous plays does one find out what needs adjustment once the game is settling in on a location.
Since the scoops are set squarely with screws and a drill gun on the line, the installer has only a limited view of how it functions "In-Play".
I havent "Not" had to adjust one in any game I have come across.
Drop target assemblies and stand-up targets can also be adjusted if they are not exactly straight and deflect the ball in an undesired angle.
I see this alot in location games. There will be a stand-up or another target that continually bounces to a "cheap drain" instead of going to the tip of a flipper.
Side drilling the holes on the mounting brackets is the acceptable way of correcting misaligned screws.
There is no easy way to move the screws once they are installed, there is just no room.

Well holes are side drilled but to the point of close to no metal left and its still not centered. Its not draining constantly, problem is it was drilled over to the far right side leaving a huge gap on the left, ball is horribly angled. I side drilled the holes but it really needs to be moved and drilled properly into the playfield which will not work at this point. I may still try a washer if I need to but its currently playable.

AFMR fix (resized).jpg

#5027 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Right popper is the SOL. By saucer kickout do you mean when you go in the hole behind the drop target and the ball kicks out the chute to the left onto the wireform ? Is so, that would be the Left Popper.
LTG : )

Thanks Loyld!!!!!!!!

#5028 2 years ago
Quoted from Marcdaddy:

Well holes are side drilled but to the point of close to no metal left and its still not centered. Its not draining constantly, problem is it was drilled over to the far right side leaving a huge gap on the left, ball is horribly angled. I side drilled the holes but it really needs to be moved and drilled properly into the playfield which will not work at this point. I may still try a washer if I need to but its currently playable.

Yes, It should be be crooked in the square slot in the playfield. This is just fine.
It doesnt have to be centered unless you want it to be, you cant see it anyway in the game.
With these adjustments and adjusted coil settings you should be fine.
I had mine hitting the sling at one time during my adjustments so I know that there is plenty of adjustment available.

#5029 2 years ago

Mine barely hits the flipper let alone a sling, feels like its underpowered coming out of mine .

#5030 2 years ago
Quoted from Marcdaddy:

Mine barely hits the flipper let alone a sling, feels like its underpowered coming out of mine .

Max out the pop coil setting?

#5031 2 years ago

I'm getting a ball hang in the subway between the mothership and the lock switch.

Sharp nudges release it.

The ball can move pretty slow after dropping in the subway on a weak hit.

It's similar to the condition that exists in a worn thing box in the subway on TAF once in awhile.

Either I need more angle in the subway or the switch wires are too high after adjusting for better mothership hits?

Anyone else see this?

LTG ?

#5032 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I'm getting a ball hang in the subway between the mothership and the lock switch.
Sharp nudges release it.
The ball can move pretty slow after dropping in the subway on a weak hit.
It's similar to the condition that exists in a worn thing box in the subway on TAF once in awhile.
Either I need more angle in the subway or the switch wires are too high after adjusting for better mothership hits?
Anyone else see this?
LTG ?

I think I'm going to try lowering the mothership subway switch 1mm at a time to see if it fixes it.

Or maybe bend the actuator wire down I little?

#5033 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Max out the pop coil setting?

Ya, Max just gets it to the left flipper.-1 stdm,-2 stdm or tip of right flipper.

#5034 2 years ago
Quoted from Tmezel:

Mezelmods is making a building to cover the VUK. This is just the prototype so it will have more detail. We have other mods coming to so look for my thread soon.

Looks awesome. id be in on one.

#5035 2 years ago
Quoted from Marcdaddy:

Ya, Max just gets it to the left flipper.-1 stdm,-2 stdm or tip of right flipper.

You might have slightly low power in the wall AC.
If it can go to a raised left flipper it should be ok and controllable.
If it's too powerful the ball will travel up the inlane and drain out the left side.

#5036 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I'm getting a ball hang in the subway between the mothership and the lock switch.

Quoted from pinballinreno:

Or maybe bend the actuator wire down I little?

Make sure things are assembled right down there, so the ball rolls downhill easily. Make sure nothing is stuck in there that shouldn't be there. Then check if it's hanging on the switch arm. Adjust that past the switch body so you don't change the flat part pushing the knob into the switch body.

LTG : )

#5037 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Make sure things are assembled right down there, so the ball rolls downhill easily. Make sure nothing is stuck in there that shouldn't be there. Then check if it's hanging on the switch arm. Adjust that past the switch body so you don't change the flat part pushing the knob into the switch body.
LTG : )

Will do, thanks Lloyd!

#5038 2 years ago

Never thought id be here. But #914 ready for battle. I've been fortunate no problems out of the box, colors correct and the pic chip was already installed. Game is way harder than the original. Had to dial down flipper strength. Shout out to Kurt and Mark at hemisphere amusements. Went out of the way to help a first time NIB purchaser. I'll be buying from them again

IMG_2062 (resized).JPG

#5039 2 years ago

Hey guys - recorded some game play action tonight with my son. Figured I'd share here!

#5040 2 years ago

I intended to purchase a SE at some point but found a local ad that was too good to pass up on a Classic. I didn't realize until I saw it that it does actually have a color LCD screen (albeit smaller). Is there anyway to get it to display the animations in color? That would be amazing if there was a work around to make it function like a color DMD or like a smaller version of the SE/LE.

#5041 2 years ago
Quoted from Ccondo:

Is there anyway to get it to display the animations in color?

No.

LTG : )

#5042 2 years ago
Quoted from PinLen83:

Hey guys - recorded some game play action tonight with my son. Figured I'd share here!
» YouTube video

You were so close to the 1 Billion Hurry-Up!

#5043 2 years ago
Quoted from PinLen83:

Hey guys - recorded some game play action tonight with my son. Figured I'd share here!
» YouTube video

Great video!
You have a credit on the screen.
A switch needs to be actuated or needs adjusting.

Your switch behind the drop target needs to be tightened and adjusted so that it's a little more sensitive and works 100% when you hit the mothership hole.

Twist it a little higher in the subway.

#5044 2 years ago

The Chicago Gaming website lists HD color as "upgradeable" on the Classic machine. Has anyone done this or know how it works?

#5045 2 years ago
Quoted from Ccondo:

The Chicago Gaming website lists HD color as "upgradeable" on the Classic machine. Has anyone done this or know how it works?

I thought I read here somewhere that some of the initial Classic's came with colour already enabled. I assume it's a firmware update to enable colour though if it's not already enabled.

#5046 2 years ago

I was thinking maybe someone may have the firmware to unlock it. A shared download of that would be awesome.

#5047 2 years ago
Quoted from Ccondo:

The Chicago Gaming website lists HD color as "upgradeable" on the Classic machine. Has anyone done this or know how it works?

Pretty sure this works like the color chip in MMr. You replace the security pic with the color version. Cost is $399

#5048 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Great video!
You have a credit on the screen.
A switch needs to be actuated or needs adjusting.
Your switch behind the drop target needs to be tightened and adjusted so that it's a little more sensitive and works 100% when you hit the mothership hole.
Twist it a little higher in the subway.

I keep getting a left gate stuck open. Everything works in test mode

#5049 2 years ago
Quoted from PinLen83:

I keep getting a left gate stuck open. Everything works in test mode

There should be directions in the manual on the test you can run to clear this error.

#5050 2 years ago
Quoted from PinLen83:

I keep getting a left gate stuck open. Everything works in test mode

Error messages start on page 1-57 in the manual . This explains what you need to do so you don't get an error. If everything is working.

LTG : )

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