Hopkins, MN
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:Could a guy buy AFMr parts that are the newer look metal saucers for it? If so, where?
Planetary Pinball Supply, if they become available. CGC doesn't sell parts.
LTG : )
(Topic ID: 86826)
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Attack from Mars
Bally, 1995
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Quoted from Blitzburgh99:Where Can I get one of these? Can’t find in stock anywhere.
PM me your name and address for mailing.
LTG : )
Quoted from desertT1:What might cause the music to go out (briefly) or make the power up “bong” while a game is in play?
Power to sound board dropping ?
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:Best place to purchase?
I'd check Bay area Amusements or Planetary Pinball Supply, Pinball Life.
LTG : )
1 week later
7 months later
Quoted from ParisPinballAdct:Quick question: is it possible, inside the settings, to change “Replay” when you reach 4,000,000,000 to an Extraball instead?
A1. 14 Replay Award in Standard Adjustments set to Ball
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from gvac:Any suggestions on what could be causing the coil to randomly fire?
Dirty opto, flaky opto.
LTG : )
3 months later
Quoted from roccolord:Any hints? The bulps are all ok.
Any that are #555's in a snap in plastic socket into a circuit board. I'd reflow the solder on the pins on that board that the connector plugs onto.
LTG : )
Quoted from desertT1:Anyone have this happen to know what happened?
Williams pricing occasionally does some weird things. Nothing you can do about it.
LTG : )
1 month later
Quoted from desertT1:What do I need to adjust
Lift playfield up and lean back. Look at the metal subway near the bottom of the playfield. A couple switches there. Check for broken wires.
LTG : )
2 weeks later
Quoted from Whitewater:Can anyone suggest what I should look into now?
Broken wires at the coil lugs ? Thin wire from coil to coil lug cracked or broken ? Pull and check their fuse with a meter, maybe more aren't working ?
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from Pinballocd:I am sure this is a dumb question but where does the Lock protector go???
http://www.passionforpinball.com/AFM-thin/afm_thin.htm
LTG : )
Quoted from Pinball13:Turns out the bottom jet skirt is not working.
Tests - Switch Edge - to check.
Check that the leaf blade switch is clean. A piece of paper between the blades, gently push blades together and pull paper out.
Check the plastic spoon the pop bumper skirt rod rests on - clean ? worn ? well centered ?
To adjust the leaf blade switch. The long top one with the plastic spoon should just be resting on, not pushing, the plastic rod coming down from the pop bumper skirt. The shorter lower one should be close enough so the slightest ball hit triggers it, yet vibration doesn't set it off.
A little tweaking and you'll be an expert at pop bumper leaf blade switch adjusting.
LTG : )
Quoted from Pinball13:I also am getting a ton of serious airballs off the Martian "T" and "I" targets. Any suggestions how to limit this?
Lower flipper strength.
Quoted from Pinball13:What is the best way to pull it so I can install the decal?
Take enough stuff apart or off of it to get at it.
LTG : )
3 months later
7 months later
Quoted from djreddog:My switch on my launch button needs to be replaced. I've checked the manual and I can't seem to find the part number that I need. Does anyone know this off hand?
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/180-5061-00
LTG : )
Quoted from NjayNL:ny ideas? is the plastic worn out where the motor pulls the bank down?
Make sure it's clean. Switches on it may need adjusting. Or what triggers them is worn.
LTG : )
Quoted from NjayNL:I am noob but want to learn can you point me a little in the good direction? which switches and what so in clean? removing the assembly seems not to hard
There is a motor. A cam is turned by the motor which fits in a oblong slot on the target bank. Be sure these plastic moving parts are clean and not worn. There are two micro mini switches, one high, one low, on the cam. Each one has a roller on it's arm. Only two switches like it on there. Not counting the stand up target leaf blade switches.
In test, run it up and down to see if it's binding on anything. Playfield, wires, etc.
LTG : )
Quoted from NjayNL:in advance is there any place around that sells a new motor assembly and 3 target bank assembly?
Check with http://www.planetarypinball.com/ , you may have to contact them. Same part used in AFMR, so it might be available. Though the switches won't have diodes. You'd have to add them.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from NjayNL:Question can anyone tell me the part number for the complete wire harness for the backbox lights? the cables with all the sockets on them and the cable that connects to the backbox thanks !
I don't believe there is a part number. And no way to order one anyway. You'd have to make it.
LTG : )
1 month later
Quoted from bbddpp:playfield posts started coming up
Small open end wrench, or small vice grip. Grab the nut part of the metal post coming up through the plastic, then you can get the locknut off. And then at some point remove the plastic and screw the metal post part back in tight.
LTG : )
Quoted from KJL:Bummer sorry to see that but very common especially the backbox.
If you need to know which color wire goes to which pin. Pinwiki has that info :
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#General_Illumination_Problems
And as KJL pointed out. Ed at Great Plains has tools and parts - https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from Boof-Ed:Sorry. Bare foot in both pictures.
Really ? You got webbed feet or something ?
LTG : )
d4f72516d2159b77e106373783271253414e6402.jpeg (resized).jpg 1 week later
Quoted from Nysbadmk8:Anyone had any luck sourcing a new Strobe board
If you just need the xenon tube, I found one on Google.
https://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/attack-from-mars-strobe-xenon-flash-lamp.html
Maybe keep an eye on Ebay ?
LTG : )
2 weeks later
Quoted from transprtr4u:1) getting error "check F2 right flipper?
One of the two optos on the right flipper button opto board isn't being recognized or working.
Easy to check. Tests - Switch Edge - push flipper button in slow and first lower flipper opto should register than the other opto. Or pass something between them one at a time to see which has the issue. Could be bad, could just need cleaning.
LTG : )
Quoted from transprtr4u:Thanks LTG during switch test recognises upper right flipper (not used) but bypasses the lower
If the flipper works, then I had the order of things mixed up. Sorry.
The opto not working is for lane changes, entering initials, etc.
LTG : )
Quoted from transprtr4u:Help please...
My game came with the limited edition topper, and the adapter that goes with it .
Can anybody tell me what plug this taps power from
Thanks in advance
Best probably try and contact the make of the topper to see if they can help.
LTG : )
Quoted from transprtr4u:Help please...
My game came with the limited edition topper, and the adapter that goes with it .
Can anybody tell me what plug this taps power from
Thanks in advance
Try contacting :
https://laseriffic.com/pages/contact-us
LTG : )
2 weeks later
Quoted from transprtr4u:Any idea of where to find a replacement strobe light?
Just an idea to increase your search.
Years ago for my game. I found a surplus store that had emergency exit lights from a hospital that changed them regularly. Well low and behold it used one of those little glass tube things. Worked great.
LTG : )
Quoted from transprtr4u:Could someone please take a picture of the 89 flasher between the pop bumpers , looks like I have a wrong color wire attached.
Tests - Flashers - Stop on that one. Hit the Start button then start hitting the "+" diagnostic button. That steps you through flasher, fuse, drive transistor, wire colors, and connector info.
LTG : )
2 weeks later
Quoted from Nysbadmk8:Whole kit, board, harness, strobe is for sale @ pinball life
Sweet !
https://www.pinballlife.com/attack-from-mars-xenon-strobe-light-kit.html
LTG : )
3 weeks later
Quoted from ataritoday:Where do I buy connector and pins (and which one's there seem to be a ton of them out there). What tools do i need (I have the usual suspects, but I dont think I have tool to insert wires in the connector. Any good pictures or videos of that out there ?
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/ Ed has what you need. Size .156
Ed has tools too.
LTG : )
Quoted from MadMaxDad:Here’s a link to what I have listed right now
Your link doesn't go to your items.
LTG : )
I'll try a single item.
LTG : )
ebay.com link: NOS New Pinbot Jack Bot Moving Target Assy Complete Found On Distributor Shelf
Quoted from Kevlar51:Any thoughts on where I should start looking?
20 volt test point od driver board. Could have an open fat diode.
LTG : )
Quoted from Kevlar51:I’ve got to cut the diode off to test though right?
I wouldn't do that. Do you have 20 volts on the 20 volt test point ?
LTG : )
Quoted from Kevlar51:i do not--reads at .7 (dmm set to 20) and the 20v LED is not lit
There are four of those fat diodes for it. I'd check with a meter first to see if one reads different from the others. After that you'd need to lift one leg to get a more accurate reading if you don't find anything obvious.
LTG : )
Quoted from Kevlar51:Keep in mind this is with all the diodes still in the circuit.
If you are good with circuit board repairs. I'd just replace all four. Lifting one leg of each you are half way there.
LTG : )
Quoted from Kevlar51:Not sure what the solution is there. Crimp it with pliers?
If you can't make it tighter. Hot Glue.
LTG : )
2 weeks later
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:I never understood how much work a real top side teardown was until now...
Don't forget where the small metal piece goes above the ramp in the upper left corner.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:Sigh... where does this go. Almost done!
Top left corner above the ramp. Screw holds it in, little thing hanging down goes in a small hole.
LTG : )
2 weeks later
Quoted from PilotPinball:Absolute beginner on this type.
The metal clips inside the socket. The red arrows point to them. Slip a jewelers screwdriver between the grey plastic socket body and the clip ( see yellow arrows ) and bend those clips closer together so they grip the bulb base better.
In your picture, you can se they are gaped too wide apart.
LTG : )
76bfe2bb38ac0f481223551a513c3011d5c18db7 (resized).jpg 1 week later
Quoted from Pinhead1982:method to clean the light boards in the game..
I spray them down with 409 or Fantastic. Further clean with a brush of some kind. Rinse thoroughly.
LTG : )
3 weeks later
Quoted from Pinhead1982:Any advice would be appreciated
Switch wired wrong, diode on backwards. Could be any of your stand up targets or ramp switches.
LTG : )
Quoted from Pinhead1982:Any of the switches... not just the ones on the row/coloum?
I'd start on the same row or column, then the others.
LTG : )
Quoted from Pinhead1982:It may well be switch 43 as there looks to be a wire.. (white/orange) soldiered to the switch lug on the banded side of the diode.. looked at all the others and they are not..
This was like this when I got the game
White wire and what ever color stripe always goes to the black end of the diode.
LTG : )
3 months later
Quoted from paulg100:only have 1 left which is my upper left Martian isnt popping during Martian attack.
Look at the bottom of his plunger. He should rest on a rubber grommet. If it's missing the plunger rides too low in the coil and doesn't get a full whack.
Also if the rubber grommet is there, see if it has degenerated and is sticky and holding the plunger down.
LTG : )
Quoted from paulg100:I dont recall there being a rubber grommet on the bottom or any of the other 3 that are working properly in fact.
But ill double check in the morning.
If all else fails look at the diagram in the manual. Page 2-25
LTG : )
Quoted from paulg100:Dont really understand why it wasnt working without the grommet
Read this :
Quoted from LTG:If it's missing the plunger rides too low in the coil and doesn't get a full whack.
LTG : )
3 weeks later
3 weeks later
Quoted from Dr_Gonzo:and for the second time now I've seen this odd green post by the scoop. Every game I've played has always had a black post sleeve there. Does anyone know what this is or why it's there? It's oversized as well, I've never seen this before.
Looks like a reflection from something green, the bottom is black.
LTG : )
2 weeks later
Quoted from desertT1:Why does it get stuck down anyway?
There is a cam in an elongated slot that makes the bank go up and down. Is your cam not in the slot ?
LTG : )
Quoted from desertT1:so I can’t check where it’s at right now,
Playfield up and leaned back. Flashlight. Easy to check. It will be on the bottom with the playfield in this position.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from Shapeshifter:but where is the strobe bulb?
Page 1-61 and page 1-62 in the manual cover it pretty good. Under the big saucer.
LTG : )
Quoted from whthrs166:. Is it normal for the game to show random hits on the saucer
Tests - Switch Edge - bang on playfield. Adjust any switch registering on the screen.
LTG : )
Quoted from whthrs166:Got lucky with Ebay purchase. I got everything for 20 bucks.
The Gildan sock too ?
Nice score.
LTG : )
Quoted from jcar302:Was this game made with inferior switches?
No. By now they are old.
And I've seen from about AFM on there may have been labor changes on the assembly line. Switch wires are soldered on when the playfield is upside down. And often flux leaks into the switch body.
Result is over time the switch will work in test and fail in game play. The flux inside slows it down and the game doesn't see it.
LTG : )
2 weeks later
Quoted from Dr_Gonzo:Do you or somebody have a manual handy? It's a green/ yellow wire coming off the T target that's broken.
Look at all your targets. All wired the same. For this forget the colored stripe for right now just the base color. White wire and black end of diode to a lug, green wire to a lug, silver band end of the diode to a lug. This pattern is the same on every switch. Look at any other switch to see where the green wire goes.
LTG : )
2 weeks later
Quoted from enzopasciuti:I suppose it is from AFMremake...
Right you are.
Contact Sara at Planetary Pinball Supply to see if you can buy one.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from Av8:1. Right orbit randomly does not register the shot. Frustrating af.
Adjust the switch for it so the ball triggers it all the time yet doesn't trap the ball.
Quoted from Av8:2. Shot to saucer counts as ball lock. Ball must be bouncing over in trough?
Lift playfield and lean back. Check switch to see if it needs adjusting or for broken wires.
Quoted from Av8:3. Air balls off all the ramp posts and T and I targets.
Raise playfield so pitch is steeper.
LTG : )
Quoted from Dr_Gonzo:Anyone know what these holes are for?
Stand up target was changed from a front mount to a rear mount.
LTG : )
Quoted from JohnTTwo:3) Even I know this is a ground wire. I will put a nice end on it and connect it right. Wheres the best place to connect it?
Find where it broke off. Grab it and pull it around to where it all could go. Or to ground braid already fastened down.
Quoted from JohnTTwo:1) I don’t know if this plug is not supposed to be used cuz it’s not.
2) hob knobbed wiring I was wondering if I shoukd leave it. Plays great! Or fix it, if so how?
Might be part of the cobbled mess. Hopefully someone can post pictures to help you clean it up. Solder nicely and heat shrink tubing, replace connector if missing.
LTG : )
5 months later
Quoted from jcar302:I'm not sure what roms are in my game,
Hit the enter button and see what the DMD says.
LTG : )
2 weeks later
Quoted from djreddog:So what got fried?
Check the voltage test points on the driver board, see what's missing.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from Kevlar51:Can a AFMr playfield be swapped into an original?
Bare playfield :
Not an even swap. Holes on top the same. Dimples underneath to mount boards and stuff will be different.
More work, I don't see any reason why it can't be done.
Populated playfield - no, not without a lot of work on the underside.
LTG : )
Quoted from JOESCHALL:Any ideas?
Slam tilt on floor of game near the front ?
You change any switches recently ? A switch matrix error can do this. Switch wired wrong or diode on backwards.
LTG : )
Quoted from JOESCHALL:I'll check the bottom of the cabinet slam tilt
Do that first.
Quoted from JOESCHALL:put in a new shooter lane switch.
Check that second. White wire to black end of diode and to a lug, green wire to a lug, silver band end of diode to a lug. Compare to other micro mini switches - all wired the same. Except for the stripe colors on white wire or green wire may differ.
Quoted from JOESCHALL:I did replace both entire flipper assemblies recently
Wouldn't cause this issue. Both EOS switches are part of the dedicated switches. Not part of the switch matrix.
LTG : )
Quoted from Kevlar51:Currently I have a switch matrix issue (likely a bad diode)
Not likely.
More likely a switch wired wrong or a short to switch lugs/wiring.
LTG : )
3 weeks later
Quoted from KJS:Hi guys...quick help if possible. I'm wondering where this guide mounts?
Top left corner above the ramp behind the saucer.
There are two holes back there for screw and metal thing sticking down.
LTG : )
Quoted from ImNotNorm:Could a busted diode be causing me this?
I doubt it. Switch wired wrong or diode on backwards.
LTG : )
3 weeks later
Quoted from ktuhde:First issue that I need help with is the display. It turns on and works, but has a horizontal blank line constantly cycling down. I tried to reset the ribbon cables and nothing. Can someone point me in the right direction to troubleshoot?
Reseat cables from CPU to AV board to DMD. If that doesn't help DMD or AV board has a serious issue.
LTG : )
Quoted from ktuhde:Or is it ok because it’s not powering anything anymore?
If you put in a color dmd, you unplug the high power connector to the dmd and tuck it away safe and unused. So it won't hurt anything as far as running high power to a dmd.
LTG : )
Quoted from Manny65:Are these caps are prone to leaking, that could damage the board? Or the state of the caps wouldn't deteriorate given the high power section of the board is no longer being used?
Caps aren't the usual thing that burns up on the high power section. If a couple big caps fail you can get the rolling image.
Once you disconnect the power cable to the DMD, nothing else will happen to the DMD driver section because nothing is going through it.
LTG : )
Quoted from mbaumle:D11 is obviously a short, but the others are not. I assume they’re testing strangely because of the shorted D11.
Hard to test them in circuit.
Replace D11 and then see where you are at.
LTG : )
Quoted from Deleenhe:Should these jumpers really be there?
Yes. Works the same. Diodes that were there were removed and won't burn the board anymore.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from Dr_Gonzo:anyone know who made them?
I believe Pinball Inc ( James Loflin ) made them. No idea if Starship Fantasy ever made them or not.
LTG : )
Quoted from Dr_Gonzo:Never heard of them,
Extremely limited production. Not available for some time. Originally sold for $280
LTG : )
Quoted from JOESCHALL:Should I replace the diode and the subminature switch to see what happens?
Tests - Switche Edge - do they work there when you press them ?
Tests - Target Bank - run it - anything bad pop up then ?
LTG : )
Quoted from Methos:Any suggestion on what to test next?
In test does the motor run ? If so has the cam in the back that rides in the horizontal slot slipped out of the slot ?
LTG : )
Quoted from Methos:Nothing happens in test mode. Does not sound like it is moving or trying to move at all. Guessing I need to verify power back up to the board. Do you know what the readings are in that mini board that it plugs into that is off on the left hand side?
12 volts DC off. Check manual for power in.
LTG : )
Quoted from Deleenhe:painting the whole thing white.
That is what High_End_Pins Chris has done on some of the restores.
LTG : )
Quoted from Deleenhe:I think that is what caused the damage to the pop bumper body as the ring was forced off centre every time it fired and wore holes in the body.
Plain old wear and tear. I've found similar wear on all three pop bumper bodies over time.
LTG : )
2 weeks later
Quoted from mbaumle:but every well-tuned AFM I’ve played has been consistent in hitting roughly the same part of the left flipper each time.
And is hard on the nylon bushing the flipper shaft rides in. Always good to check it now and then for cracks or breaks.
LTG : )
Quoted from Deleenhe:On my flippers (and also my CFTBL), the switches are normally open and they close when the flipper is energized and reaches end of stroke. Is this correct?
This is correct for your game.
Vid's guide covers older high power EOS switches too, those would be normally closed. Your game is fliptronic and low power on the EOS that just let the game know to cut high power.
LTG : )
Quoted from Deleenhe:Today I was doing my first rebuild of a flipper assembly.
Your picture has high power EOS tungsten switches, they work, but being they are bent up you might replace them.
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:you might replace them.
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-end-of-stroke-switch-normally-open.html
LTG : )
2 weeks later
Quoted from ImNotNorm:Can someone tell me which prong this wire needs to be on?
White wire goes to black end of diode lug.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from Brewchap:Any ideas?
If coil and spring attaching diverter to plunger below playfield. If it works in test with high power interlock held in. Then read the error codes in the manual for what has to happen, so you don't get the error.
The game doesn't know what a diverter is, it does know if a switch past it has been hit or not.
LTG : )
Quoted from Brewchap:Where is the Left Popper Optical Switch at?
Bottom of the left popper.
Quoted from Brewchap:Because it's not working in test mode.
Then concentrate on coil and wiring.
LTG : )
3 weeks later
Quoted from Deleenhe:My machine has an AE-25-1000 installed
Weaker coil.
Quoted from Deleenhe:Page 2-23 of the manual says it should be AE-23-800 and the solenoid table on page 3-5 says it is AE-26-800.
Either one is stronger, 800 turns.
Quoted from Deleenhe:I am wondering if this incorrect(?) installed coil is responsible for the deformation of the scoop weldment?
No, 27 years of balls hitting it did this.
LTG : )
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:The ball sometimes bounces back into the vuk on mine, I wonder if my coil is wrong
Or the curved part of the chute has a divot and doesn't let the ball go up through and out.
LTG : )
1 month later
Quoted from wrd1972:The shooter mech looks fine.
Coil sleeve worn ? Plunger has too much wiggle so it doesn't hit the same spot on the ball every time ?
LTG : )
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:I've looked into it, it's not an opto it's a rollover switch.
I've tried adjusting it a few times but the issue returns.
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:get the switch working right
Replace it. Sounds like it has flux inside. Works in test fails in game play because it is slow.
You can screw with it forever and not gain any ground.
LTG : )
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:I've tried bending it to get it to activate on the slightest hit and also be closer to the gate but you can see it's been messed with a lot.
It's totally F'd up. That arm should be straight along the top of the switch body.
You can adjust that until the cows come home and never get it right.
Get a new switch and enjoy your game.
LTG : )
3a2b348d737f8d39d241442a0fb88c86ec1ae5c4 (resized).jpg 1 week later
Quoted from Biju:I inspect the fuse and it looks fine however I noticed the fuse is T4.0A 125V instead of the 250V the manual states.
Fuse rating is fine. Pull and check fuse with a meter.
Lower left area of the driver board - any burned connectors ?
LTG : )
3 weeks later
Quoted from Biju:solenoid would fire but not completely
The heavy spring that hooks the plunger to the diverter broken ?
LTG : )
1 month later
Quoted from jbovenzi:Does anyone have a wiring diagram/color code for that Saucer PCB cable please?
Should be in the manual.
LTG : )
2 weeks later
Quoted from ParisPinballAdct:So do you reckon i should look into the related fuse?
Or should i look into something elsewhere?
Pull and check 12 volt fuse with a meter, and check 12 volt test point to see if you have 12 volts there.
LTG : )
Quoted from SFBP36:Any guidance is greatly appreciated.
I would consider your standard switch matrix issue. Switch wired wrong, diode on backwards, or a short to switch lugs or wiring.
Only take a few minutes to check. Look over all your switches. All wired the same. White wire black end of diode to a lug, green wire to a lug, silver banded end of diode to a lug. All are the same !
Start with any your replaced or worked on recently, then ones that balls can hit like on ramps, then the others.
LTG : )
1 month later
1 - Thinner rubber ring and be sure switch arm isn't holding it there, not fully depressing.
2 - Divots in ball trough or magnetized balls holding things up.
3 - Turn game off. Adjust the leaf blade switch for it below the playfield.
Turn the game off. Lift playfield up and lean back. See the leaf blade switch ? The long one with the plastic spoon is pushed by a plastic rod coming down from the pop bumper skirt. This plastic spoon should be clean, ( not worn on older games ) well centered on the rod, just resting on it, not pushing it up. The shorter lower leaf blade switch should be close enough so the slightest ball hit triggers it yet vibration doesn't set it off. A little adjusting/tweaking, and you'll be fine.
6 - AFM when new shipped with black rubber rings. What color you use is up to you.
LTG : )
Quoted from slizzap:very rarely registers,
Original switches with this issue I'd replace them. They get flux inside and work fine in test but are slow and fail in game play.
LTG : )
Quoted from slizzap:Can someone please confirm
I confirm. They shipped that way from the factory. Original and remake.
Quoted from slizzap:According to the manual, the silver post and plastic post should be reversed from how mine is.
Manuals aren't always accurate.
The metal post with big ring and little ring takes a beating. Hence the small ring on top. Both get ball hits.
LTG : )
1 week later
Quoted from Wariodolby:More help needed.
This peace came off around the lobster ramp.
Not sure where it goes.
Top left corner on top the ramp behind the flasher. Two holes there. One for the screw and one for the tab.
LTG : )
Quoted from Wariodolby:More help needed.
This peace came off around the lobster ramp.
Not sure where it goes.
From the picture gallery for this thread.
LTG : )
befcaf8ee1c0ab531c11ff070b04d290b71147e3 (resized).jpg 4 weeks later
Quoted from jcar302:However when you put Hold on repeat, it never opens,
You have to physically hold it open when running this test. Hold can hold it, but not pop it open.
Quoted from jcar302:Diverter stuck open
Is this an error that popped up ? If so check page 1-49 about this error. What needs to happen, and if you play a bunch of games it may go away on it's own.
LTG : )
3 weeks later
Quoted from DaddyManD:2) Left outlane switch keeps coming up as bad and tech alert when I start game. it works fine in test menu and then doesnt work during game play. i reflowed solder but this didnt fix it. Thoughts? Have never replaced a switch on a B/W, if I replace to I also need to add a new resistor?
If you replace the switch, wire it exactly the same way. Picture or notes where white wire goes, green wire goes, and which end the silver band of the DIODE is. If you get a new diode, 1N4004 or 1N4007 will work fine.
Replace the switch. It is gunked up inside. Works fine in test, but too slow to work in game play.
LTG : )
Quoted from DaddyManD:mechanical issue with the back drop target being gunked (a few weeks ago it was and I cleaned it but think its acting up again).
A couple connectors and 3 or 4 screws. Easy to remove from the game for a good cleaning. Get clips and spring back in the right order. ( refer to drawing in the manual for help ) check the washers for sharp edges dragging on the plastic drop target. File them smooth if they had a raised sharp edge.
Check switch for loose or broken wires, and check the switch on the subway below the playfield behind the drop target assembly for loose or broken wires too.
LTG : )
3 months later
Quoted from goamie:How did they come when new from Bally?
From Williams. I uncrated the one I had when it was new. All the way up.
LTG : )
2 months later
Quoted from djreddog:Not sure where to go from here.
Sounds like your 12 volts is dropping now and then.
LTG : )
2 weeks later
Quoted from Shapeshifter:Wow, that makes it way tougher!
Still saw a tournament player put up a 74 billion on it.
LTG : )
4 months later
Quoted from pacman11:ideas?
Check out High_End_Pins , his restorations. He's painted them if need be and new ones can't be found.
LTG : )
2 months later
Quoted from TheShadowsNose:Is that normal behavior?
Connectors mixed up ? Switch matrix issue somewhere in the game ? Switch wired wrong, diode on backwards, a short to switch lugs or wiring ?
LTG : )
1 month later
Quoted from radial_head:I cannot for the life of me figure out where this metal piece goes.
Top left behind the saucer. Two holes up there. One for the screw and one for the point sticking down.
LTG : )
DSC00938 (resized).JPG 1 week later
Quoted from slizzap:I'm convinced this is a bug at this point.
I'm convinced you have poor solder joints on the optos in there or flaky optos.
LTG : )
Quoted from slizzap:but would you mind elaborating on your logic given the details I provided?
No logic. Just doesn't sound like a bug.
LTG : )
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