Happy to join the club--again! I've owned two AFMs in the past and sold them after a few years, but my first love has returned to me. Just picked up an AFM that was originally in a bowling alley 20 years ago, then bought by a friend of mine who has now sold it to me. The machine has a few minor project elements, so I'll post a few questions here separately, but first I'm just sharing an amusing note found on the lightboard from the machine's bowling alley days. My friend who sold me the machine did great work on the power driver board, so I don't have any of the concerns expressed by ED 20 years ago. My friend left the lightboard note alone as part of the machine's legacy, but I thought it would be fun to share the note here before I remove it.

AFM Lightboard (resized).JPG

LOL. It's a good point. Perhaps ED was French . . .

Help needed regarding switching out the home ROM on AFM so the machine can accept coin drop. This machine will be routed, so the "free play only" option won't work for me as it did for the previous owner who installed the chip. Can someone point me to exactly what chip or chips I need to ensure the latest code with coin drop, where the chips go, and where I can purchase them? I have installed chips before, but I remain clueless about these particular issues. Photo below.

Thanks for any insight.

AFM Chip (resized).JPG

Thanks so much. Is it logical that I would just need the CPU ROM 1.1 or would I need to swap in the sound 1.1 as well?

Thanks, Lloyd!

Cool. Thanks so much. Dirty Pool is the bomb.

I need advice on preparing and replacing insert decals. As the pics below show, I have just a few damaged decals over inserts, ranging from some with white "bubbles" underneath (even though the decals are smooth) to a few where the decal is missing and the glass is "rough" or where there is a missing decal and flaking around the edges. There is no mylar over these insert areas--it's an original playfield with clearcoat (I believe).

I have a set of laminated decals, an exacto knife, naptha (which I have previously used to remove glue residue after mylar removal), and a can of air to use the "cold freeze" method if needed. Obviously I need to replace the decals where there is simply no print left, but I'm more tentative about replacing smooth decals where there is unsightly white but a smooth surface and whether I might do damage in the process. Looking for any advice on method, surface preparation, and decal installation. Many thanks!

AFM1 (resized).JPG

AFM2 (resized).JPG

AFM3 (resized).JPG

AFM4 (resized).JPG

AFM5 (resized).JPG

Thanks, Kevlar51! Awesome detail, and some things I would never have thought of. Much obliged!

On my (original) AFM, I'm getting Slam Tilts that can happen anytime during game play. I separated the contact points for the coin door slam tilt switch so that it can't activate mechanically, but the problem remains. Any ideas?

Thanks so much for the above three replies. I did replace both entire flipper assemblies recently and put in a new shooter lane switch. I'll check the bottom of the cabinet slam tilt and run a switch test. Everything was good for a month but now this has popped up. I'll report back once the problem is resolved. Thanks again!

Thanks, Lloyd. You're the best!

On the above phantom random slam tilts, I did check every switch in the switch matrix and all looked well, I checked the wiring and spacing in the bottom cabinet switch and that was fine too, and I checked the wiring and diode orientation for the shooter lane switch I had replaced, which was also fine. What I did find was that the cliffy protector on the SOL scoop was slightly lifted and was right up against one of the Martian targets, with that target also loose, so I pushed down the protector and tightened the switch, and I played one game so far with no slam tilt. I'm not sure if that switch being loose, activated by, or being sometimes stuck closed against the cliffy would cause a slam tilt, but I thought it was worth a try.

Aha. Thanks for the helpful explanatory analysis. That does make sense, especially after watching that video. A lesson learned. I played two more games on the machine in the last hour with no slam tilts, so I think the problem is licked. Thanks again!

As with other grace periods on AFM, I'd estimate that it's a full 2 seconds.

Having a problem with the three-target Motor Bank Up switch. When the game boots, the bank goes up, then down, then back up again, but as soon as a ball is launched, the bank goes down again and stays there. In diagnostics upon hitting Enter, I get a Motor Bank Up switch broken message.

Some background is in order in case I caused the problem. Originally, during multiball and sometimes during other circumstances, the Center Ramp Enter switch was also awarding the Right Ramp Enter, giving two jackpots for the price of one. With these two switches next to each other in the same column in the matrix, I reasoned that one of the switches had a bad diode, and I replaced both diodes and switches. I used 4004 diodes for replacement. When I replaced the Center Ramp Enter switch, I also found corrosion around the diode. This solved the double jackpot award problem. Hurrah. Wish I had stopped there.

Then I installed a protector in front of the three-target motor bank, which required some disassembly, and in the process I found that the white-violet wire came off of the Motor Bank Up switch, with the green-blue wire on the center lug intact. I can see from the manual (page 2-30) that the white-violet wire goes to the switch lug opposite the silver cathode, so I soldered it there and the problem began described above with the Motor Bank Up switch--which is in the same column as the above two switches and diodes I had already replaced. I removed the protector in case that was having any influence, but no change.

I do notice that the diode in the Motor Bank Up switch looks pretty mangled, which could have been preexisting or could have happened during disassembly. Should I replace the diode and the subminature switch to see what happens? Could the problem have anything to do with the complementary subminature switch above? This switch takes a white-blue and green-blue-wire and has no part number in the manual, but looks identical to the lower switch with all joints and mechanics looking intact. Before proceeding, I thought I should get advice first to see if I'm missing something or if anyone has any insights. I'm afraid I'm no good with a meter besides testing fuses, so I have to resort to more of a shotgun approach.

Help greatly appreciated to tackle this final vexing problem!

Thanks, Lloyd--as always, your advice helped get me there. And as usual, it was a case of operator error. When I reassembled the target bank originally, I had manually pushed the drop targets up and slid the motor shaft back in place. So the motor was running, but the targets were behaving the opposite of what they should have been. A switch test helped me figure that out. Once I disassembled and pushed the drop targets down, then reassembled, all was well.

Thanks again. You're the best!

I've always used Mean Green, but I'll bet the Bryan Kelly solution is better. Those Martians are tough little buggers!

Another AFM puzzle. During game play, if both the "I" and "A" green martian targets are hit simultaneously (as can happen during mutilball), then I get a SLAM TILT every time. In switch test, when I press both targets simultaneously, I also get SLAM TILT indicated briefly on the DMD. Looking at the switch matrix, when I try other combinations that I think could result in the same thing, such as LEFT SLINGSHOT and LEFT JET at the same time, then no SLAM TILT.

Thinking it could be a leaky diode in the "I" or "A" target, I replaced both, including their diodes, but with the same result.

What am I missing?

Hmm. Thanks for the quick reply. Good to know that someone else has seen the same thing. I resoldered all the related wires when I replaced both targets and visually inspected to be sure they weren't touching anything, but I'll look more closely at the wires if no one comes up with any other ideas. Again, thanks!

I'll try that tomorrow and report back. Thanks for the tip. I think I get a sense where you're going with this idea. In case it's relevant, I also replaced the coin door interlock switch recently, which was faulty.

Okay, IMNotNorm, Manny65, and Completist, it took a village but the problem is solved. With all due respect to stomach knotting, in the end it was indeed "fun" and I was glad for all of the diagnostics advice and confirmation of the somewhat stumbling approach I was taking. Indeed, it was the "I" target and Manny was correct--pressing "I" and N" (combined with the Always Closed switch in the matrix) did trigger the coin door closed switch briefly in switch test mode. I spent a few hours today troubleshooting, including removing the cliffy protector on the scoop to be sure it wasn't interfering, checking the connections on the coin door interface, putting the balls in the trough during switch test to be sure all the optos were working correctly, and even reinstalling the old target. But in the end it was IMNotNorm's solution that was correct. I desoldered everything on the new "I" target, then cleaned all of my solder points, stripped the insulation off to get fresh wire ends, and started over. Once I resoldered everything, including the diode, and reinstalled the target then all was well. Part of me wishes I had started with that, and I still wonder if the original target had a leaky diode, but the fact is I learned a lot through the process, and my better understanding of the switch matrix and the square/rectangle box short diagnosis is a great lesson.

And, for a change, Lloyd didn't even have to chime in on this one!

On a related note, on this same AFM I recently replaced the center ramp switch, which definitely had a bad diode, which caused a beneficial malfunction during multiball, awarding both the center ramp and the right ramp simultaneously. Again, the switch matrix and input from pinsiders helped me figure that out. So my bulb is still dim, but it's finally starting to glow.

Very grateful for this group and this fix, in that the AFM is routed and popular, so it's nice to know that the faithful flippers won't be getting inexplicable slam tilts any longer. Thank you pinside!

I know. That always bugs me as well. I try to read through the full owner's thread when possible to see if others have experienced the same issues. And I'm especially grateful when someone like Manny65 takes the time not just to write but to write clearly. I'd have quit the amateur tech portion of the hobby years ago if it weren't for pinsiders.

Correct. Use pliers covered with electrical tape over the jaws or a rag of some sort between the pliers and the scoop so as not to scratch the metal. Another idea is to add a washer to one side of the scoop underneath the playfield and see what effect that has.

Common with a lot of machines with scoops. Kickout can also be affected by whether or not there is a Cliffy protector installed and whether it is deformed due to age or overtightening. Even pitch and level of the machine can have some minimal effect, as can whether or not the coil assembly is loose. So if you don't have the machine in your possession, I'd fiddle with it when you do and consult this thread for input. It definitely an addressable issue and a mechanical one.

Sorry--no help there. No experience with the UFO mod.

Let us know how things go with your game.

Neither the old cliffy I removed nor the new Cliffy I put on had tape. These both came from cliffy himself.

This is an excellent point that I've found applies to other game kickouts as well, and it's quite an easy (and cheap) replacement to make. Just did this on two Stern games with scoop kickouts, with excellent results. Worth a try.

I'd say you're right, as supported by the ball wear marks on the broken piece as well. You can always partially remove just one of the plastics on either side of the saucer to verify and see if the holes match up. If so, I'd say you've got your solution.

True that. For my AFM backbox, I've had excellent results with premium non-ghosting warm white LEDs from Cointaker, but with other brands I've had the same problem you describe. Or you can go back to incandescents. And for the flashers, I would stick with incandescents or resort to a black Sharpie over the flasher LEDs if they're already installed--they're just too bright.

Keep at it, DaveTheTrain. These final little experiments will be worth it!

Yup, I took a photo of mine today to post as well and it looks just the same, so there's no need to post the photo. If I compress the spring with my fingers, I can basically count seven turns.

Also, I did a test of 10 scoop kickouts in a row, and they all feed to the very bottom of the left sling, which is what I recall from playing other AFMs as well and which preferable to it hitting the flipper directly from my POV. If I hold the left flipper up when the ball kicks out, it usually results in a trap or a pass to the other flipper. With all due respect to tinkering, I think when it comes to scoop kickouts--especially when the scoop is so far up the playfield--it doesn't pay to tinker too much or to expect exactitude. What matters is that the scoop never kicks the ball SDTM.

Cool. Thanks for letting us know. Now "Look--your shoe's untied!" Happy flipping!!

What Lloyd said. I'm surprised at how often I find in cases of ball kickouts that what I assume is electrical is actually mechanical. A whole new scoop, a little sanding and polishing, a little changing of pitch, adding a washer or two where the screws are to change the angle, a littler careful bending of a metal part--these kinds of mechanical experiments often do a lot more to solve kickout problems than you might think.

I'm not sure of some of the details of the cow video mode, but I do know that following the basic Easter Egg link advice I have gotten it to appear several times in the past. For those who haven't see it, here is a YouTube video link if you don't mind a spoiler:

Not positive, but I would always check Action Pinball's site:

https://www.actionpinball.com/

It's absolutely not normal--it shouldn't fire at all when you power the game on. Others can speak with more authority here, I'm sure, but again I would go into switch test and specifically test the shooter lane switch. Besides a leaky diode somewhere else which might trigger that switch (hopefully not, but possible, I think), I'd say the problem could be in the shooter lane switch itself and a minor adjustment to that switch might be all that's needed. My first thought is that the switch might be closed when it should be open. If that doesn't yield anything, I would look at every switch in the matrix that shares a row or column with the shooter lane switch and check on its status.

I'm speculating, but those are my ideas.

I'll see if I can help, starting with the left outlane switch and whether the two issues above for DaddyManD and dboeren are really the same scenario or not (I suspect not).

DaddyManD, you said the left outlane switch comes up bad when you "start a game." I'm not sure what you mean by that. During gameplay, does that switch get triggered immediately when you push the Start button or you push the Ball Launch button? I'll follow up based on your answer.

For dboeren, when you trigger the switch in test mode have you tried both your finger and a ball? During gameplay, have you tried both your finger and the ball as well to see if there's a difference?

Okay. I'm somewhat grasping at straws here and unfortunately I don't own the game anymore, but perhaps your Dirty Pool problem and this left outlane switch issue are related. I'm wondering if you have a leaky diode somewhere and that thorough testing--both in test mode and with the game powered up--will help you diagnose the issue, using the switch matrix in the back of the manual. Both with a game started and in test mode, try every relevant combination based on the switch matrix, starting with anything that shares a row or column with the left outlane and motor bank. In other words, try pressing the left outlane switch and pressing the center motor bank at the same time (same row), the left outlane and shooter lane switch at the same time (same row), and try pressing the left outlane switch and Start button or Launch Button and at the same time (same column). With each scenario, see if you get any unusual behavior with the game on or indicators on the DMD during test mode that don't make sense.

For the Dirty Pool problem, it seems that whatever switch would be tied to your dropping the bank targets is being activated as well or is already activated. So try every scenario with the game on that you can--hit just the left target, just the center, just the right. See if the behavior is the same if the rear drop target is up or down. Again, I suspect a leaky diode or possibly a switch being closed that should be open. Test both manually and while using a ball by hand.

I wish I could explain and diagnose better (I'm sure someone else can, such as Lloyd, who may weigh in), but when I've had similar problems with my AFM in the past the answer has been to use the switch matrix and different testing scenarios in combination to isolate the problem, which I think could be diode-related. On that note, focus on any related switch that has a diode in particular, with the idea that one leaky diode on one switch can refer a problem to another switch that has a diode and resides in the same row or column in the matrix.

Hopefully this gets you on the right path and someone else with more knowledge will chime in to correct me if I'm off base.

AFM Switch Matrix (resized).JPG

No problem. Until someone weighs in with a better idea, keep troubleshooting every logical scenario. Here are others: With the game on, do the skill shot by holding up the left flipper when you launch the ball, then touch the three-bank target to drop it and see if you get Dirty Pool. Also, with the game on, try every combination of hitting the bank targets individually (left, center, right; left right, center, etc.) and see if Dirty Pool is ONLY awarded when the bank target drops or if it's actually being awarded by an individual target. And with the bank target up, activate the rear drop target (if it's up) and see if that awards Dirty Pool. My hope is that such experiments will illuminate something.

Yes to all that Bryan said. And be sure the switch is secured properly under the playfield by checking the wood screws. I have also tried carefully bending the switch just to the point that it activates more easily (that is, it offers a bit more resistance to ball flow but still activates) and that has resolved such problems. And, if you really want to be sure, assuming you can solder and that the right outlane and left outlane switches are the same, just swap them and see if the problem transfers. If it does, I'd say you can be sure it's the switch and it's time to adjust or replace it.

And since you can solder, one other test is to take the left outlane out of the equation temporarily. Remove one of the wires running to that switch and see if there is any Dirty Pool behavior change.

Last point for DaddyManD for now about diagnosing leaky diodes with the switch matrix. There are several youtube videos related to this topic. Here is the one that helped me most in the past.

Good to hear. Let us know how you make out. And I think your left outlane issue is probably totally separate and should be addressed separately per the advice to dboeren--your likely answer is in that three-bank drop target and the related switches and possibly the related diodes.

Welcome! Original or remake?

Lucky dog! Congrats.

Congrats. Yes, that is, um, indeed a steal, especially in the current market.

Do you mean the Right Ramp Enter switch--#63? I think getting the exact switch name is an important beginning to correct diagnostics. I agree with Lloyd's (LTG's) comment above, and I have a notion as to the cause if you can identify it by switch name and number.

And to further clarify, confirm that it's the Right Ramp Enter switch and not the Right Ramp Exit switch. It could be either, and testing each one at a time to verify could be important.

I figured as much. One more simple test might confirm something. Open the coin door, do NOT pull the coin door interlock switch, and try the same test on the switches again. See what kind of results you get.

To follow up further on the above--others with more knowledge can correct me if I am off base--I think the issue might actually be with the Right Ramp Exit switch since that is the one triggering the problem. That switch is actually closing the Center Ramp Enter switch, which then activates the diverter and turns on the ball lock. I suppose it could be either switch, but my assumption is that you have a bad diode in the Right Ramp Exit switch which, in the switch matrix, shares a column with the Center Ramp Enter switch, which shares a row with the Coin Door Closed switch--that's why I suggested above that you try the switch test with the coin door open and without pulling the coin door interlock switch, which I think would, in effect, take the Coin Door Closed switch out of the equation. So, by all means, check both the Right Ramp Exit switch and the Center Ramp Enter switch for wires that have come off or bad diodes, but if my thinking is correct, you likely have a bad diode on the Right Ramp Exit switch. Just my two cents.

I've read your posts and watched the video and wish I could offer something more helpful. My first thought was the same as LTGs--an opto issue and not a code issue--but as you demo the problem it's pretty puzzling. All I can say is that I have owned four original AFMs in the past and reached RTU well over 100 times, and what you're describing never occurred for me. Again, I realize that isn't very helpful, but it makes me think the problem you're chasing is not specific to the code. I do like the NVRAM and factory reset idea, and I also wonder if your game is losing track of the number of balls.

Yes, well over 100 times, I'm afraid, and sometimes twice in one game. That's part of why I sold the game and took to restoring and reselling the title--I just got too good at it. Hang in there, and have me over to play yours and I'll show you.

Well, jcar302 (a fellow Joe), after my above claim about reaching RTU over 100 times and your saying you've never done it, I thought I'd film a demo. I briefly have an AFM remake at the moment that I am adding some upgrades to for a customer, so I decided to battle test it today and see if I could get RTU in 20 minutes and post the video on youtube. Others have done it, including the great Robert Gagno, and indeed I was able to achieve RTU in 20 minutes with a few seconds to spare. Unfortunately, you can't see the flipper action in the video due to the limitations of my camera (mounted on a tripod, so I also had to stand behind the tripod while playing and I bumped it a few times), but nevertheless the video represents my basic strategy of earning extra balls and using the multiballs to save the countries. So if anyone feels like watching a 20-minute RTU run, here it is:

Not a known challenge, but it would make for an interesting one. Good for you that you got close to RTU that fast. I suppose a good "speed run" challenge would be 10 minutes. And that's one of the great things about this title and why I have always called it my favorite--you can reach a lot of goals in a short time, but it can also drive you nuts when you fall short of one particular goal over and over. And once you get to RTU consistently, the victory laps are gratifying and the challenge can be to achieve RTU twice. By comparison, I have played LOTR to death as well, but as great a game as it is, it always takes me about an hour to get to Valinor the few times I have done so, and somehow that can feel like a grind because of the time sink. For my money, RTU is still about the most satisfying wizard mode in pinball.

I know what you mean about AFM, in every way, and that's why I have owned four over the years. I would probably still own one if the prices hadn't gone crazy.

Going for Super Jackpot first is a strategy, but you might sacrifice your chance at other achievements in the process. The keys to Super Jackpot, for me, are mastering those nicely flowing ramp and loop combinations, especially if you can manage to get in at least two ramps or loops in right away when multiball starts before the other balls start to potentially block your way. And if you pay attention to hitting balls on the fly I have found that you can backhand all ramps and loops except for the center loop, so that helps. Another trick, if I recall correctly, is to get Total Annihilation or Martian Attack just set up with one shot away from completion, then start the multiball, and if you get down to the last ball and just need Super Jackpot, start TA or MA and you can use the multiball then to complete Super Jackpot and even keep the multiball recycling that way. This is from memory, but I'm pretty sure you can use those tactics. And then of course there's that nice little "grace period" that Lyman included if you're down to the last ball and still a shot away from a Jackpot or Super Jackpot, so don't give up on that possibility once you are down to one ball. If I'm down to the wire with one shot left and that Super Jackpot is still not collected, I tend to trap the ball on a flipper and wait to take the shot I am most confident in as that Super Jackpot shot rotates around.

So go ahead and RTU, Joe, then get bored with the game and sell it to me cheap. Good luck in your continued quest.