(Topic ID: 86826)

Attack from Mars [AFM] - martians club

By OlDirty

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 2,247 posts
  • 309 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 hours ago by slizzap
  • Topic is favorited by 180 Pinsiders

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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider desertT1.
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#235 7 years ago

What keeps a ball going into the lock shot from hitting the switch that gives dirty pool? On my new to me AFM a soft shot to the lock will give a lock, but a solid shot normally gives dirty pool.

#237 7 years ago
Quoted from Beemus:

One way wire gate between saucer microswitch and lock opto switch

Cool, thanks!

#239 7 years ago
Quoted from Beemus:

One way wire gate between saucer microswitch and lock opto switch

So I pulled the big saucer bracket off and found the gate. Funny thing is that it seems to be doing just fine in there. Swings to let a ball go to the VUK, and does not let a ball go back in the other direction.

Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:

seems to be a lot of these hitting the sale block in the last few weeks. guess ditching them before the remakes come out?

Probably, but I didn't want to wait 12+ months and who knows what the price will be. MMr came in at 8k when MM was 12k. AFM is not that high, so an 8k AFMr will not have as much appeal IMO.

#242 7 years ago
Quoted from Beemus:

Make sure microswitch in trough isn't set too sensitive and triggering due to vibration. Pretty sure it's adjustable. And obviously all wire/diode connections should be good. If not, again, vibration could be trouble.

I will check, again, thanks.

#243 7 years ago
Quoted from Beemus:

Make sure microswitch in trough isn't set too sensitive and triggering due to vibration. Pretty sure it's adjustable. And obviously all wire/diode connections should be good. If not, again, vibration could be trouble.

I checked the switch while the kids were still getting ready this morning and man was that thing on edge. Eased it off a little and didn't have a false trigger in two games. I wasn't shooting for the center ship at all though, so I will play some more tonight to make sure it still registers when you get behind the drop target. It should, but I won't turn down more play time on this game if I don't have to.

1 month later
#283 7 years ago

I'm having an issue every now and then where the 3-bank will drop (seemingly at random) and the first hit in behind the drop target will give dirty pool and then every hit after that will just pop up from the VUK. Power cycling fixes the issue, but I can't figure out what's causing it in the first place.

Also, is there a readme for the code versions? I'm curious what each version changed as well as the difference between the 1.13 and 1.13b ROMs. Mine is on location if that matters. Why is 1.13 3MB and 1.13b 364KB?

5 months later
#316 6 years ago

I recently replaced the switches in the shield assembly. I had been getting instances where the shield would not go up after a saucer was destroyed. The next shot would award dirty pool and then shots after that would just go through to the VUK without credit going to anything. It wasn't common, but happened often enough to be annoying. Well the switch replacement helped that a ton and I thought the issue was gone. It happened a few days ago in a 3-player game. Player 1 lowered the shield and then drained. It never went back up for player 2. Player 1 came back around and picked up where they left off and things seemed to be back to working fine. Not the end of the world, but I would really like to eliminate this issue.

3 weeks later
#345 6 years ago

What might cause the music to go out (briefly) or make the power up “bong” while a game is in play?

#347 6 years ago

The music cuts out briefly, but the sfx keep playing. It might be 3 seconds. Any way to check power is ok?

4 weeks later
#367 6 years ago

Well my shield did the thing again where it goes down and doesn’t raise back up after you destroy a ship. The three lights blink as if it thinks it’s up. I replaced the roller switches a few weeks ago, so it shouldn’t be that. Any thoughts? It gives dirty pool once and then just VUKs to the left habitrail. Power cycling fixes it (not an option during tournaments) and every now and then a following player will have it go up at the start of the ball.

3 weeks later
#384 6 years ago

THe wood between the drop target and the scoop is damaged and only half as thick as it should be. I think it is causing switch issues because the lock registers at times when the saucer scoop is shot. Any ideas as to how to repair that? I tried wood filler when I first got the game and that survived less than a handful of games.

1 month later
#414 6 years ago

Is the main saucer harness something that I can replace, or does it lead to multiple connectors? Mine was cut near the connector as some point and the short term repairs have now failed. I'd rather re-run a new harness if that's possible.

1 month later
#435 6 years ago

The super skill shot at times has a ball save, but other times is gone right away. Is there something that causes this?

#437 6 years ago

The shield is still going down and staying down, even though the three inserts are flashing as if they are waiting to be hit. Power cycling fixes the game most of the time as far as I know. I'd love to permanently solve the issue though. Any guesses?

I should point out that I have recently replaced the roller switches that are on the rotating piece. That did not change the behavior even though those are the switches to know if the visor is up or down.

7 months later
#475 5 years ago

My AFM is set for .75 per play. I went into my location where it is yesterday and it said something like 1/6 or 5/6 credits. It took some fiddling but got it back to a quarter adding 1/3 credit, but am puzzled as to how it happened. The menu to change the fractions is pretty deep in there, so have a feeling the game did it on its own. Anyone have this happen to know what happened?

#476 5 years ago

Oh, one more thing. The shield did its little glitch yesterday where the shield is down, but the inserts are blinking as if it thinks it is up waiting for the stand ups to be hit. If you get “lower shields” from stroke of luck it cures it, but other than that it takes a power cycle. I’m going to change out the 6 month old switches to see if that fixes it, but new switches should have cured this if switches were in fact the issue. It did this with the old switches too.

#478 5 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Williams pricing occasionally does some weird things. Nothing you can do about it.
LTG : )

Ok. Game’s been out for 18 months, so at least it’s not happening every week.

1 month later
#482 5 years ago

What do I need to adjust if lock shots sometimes don't give the locks (but also don't give saucer credit either as if it passed the opto) and instead just kicks it up the VUK? Not happening every time, which is the worst part.

1 month later
#506 5 years ago

Fire in coil test I’m assuming. Do the skirt switches register in switch test?

7 months later
#601 4 years ago

F105 is blowing and the manual says that is for 5V logic. However, all of my results are showing up with people talking about coils being powered with that fuse. What's the deal?

#604 4 years ago
Quoted from KJL:

F105 is the +5V in the schematic for WPC 95. For the WPC driver board F105 is high power solenoids according to the schematic. Check if your search is coming up with games prior to Congo which is the first to use the WPC 95 driver board.
It looks like F105 goes through D7-D10 Then C9 then Q1 etc until leaving the board at J101, J138, J139, J140, and J141
Pull those connectors and replace the fuse. If the fuse blows again the problem in on the driver board start with testing D7-10 and working towards those connectors J101 etc.
Good luck[quoted image]

Thanks. D8 was shorted open. Replaced that and AFM is happy again.

3 months later
#686 4 years ago

Has anyone ever had something in the shield 3-bank wear out so it was down but thought it was up or the other way around? Every now and then mine does that. There is a cam that touches the up/down switch but I’m wondering if there is some way for that to wear and not work perfectly, but maybe 90%+ of the time.

1 year later
#1219 3 years ago

Had the motor bank forget that it was down and went into switch test. It shows that it knows the bank is down. When you back out of the menu the game reboots and it went back up in attract mode. Why does it get stuck down anyway? Anything I can do about it? Code is rev 1.1

BCF9CE18-E223-423B-A2A5-8D6ECF50241A (resized).jpegBCF9CE18-E223-423B-A2A5-8D6ECF50241A (resized).jpeg
#1221 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

There is a cam in an elongated slot that makes the bank go up and down. Is your cam not in the slot ?
LTG : )

It reset the bank just fine when it went back into attract mode, so I can’t check where it’s at right now, but I can inspect the area. I’ll do the up/down test and see what the cam does. I have a new black plastic piece for the 3 switches to sit in. Mine does have some play, but not too bad.

#1224 3 years ago
Quoted from darkryder:

Is this backboard decal available to purchase anywhere? I have my original AFM playfield stripped down and don't care for the original cityscape backboard decal. Interested in either purchasing this backboard decal or the version from the guy in Russia, but would rather buy Stateside and not wait 4-6 weeks. Any leads would be appreciated. I also have the Bryan Allen Flyland Designs inner side art decals on the way, too bad he doesn't also make a backboard decal.
https://www.flylanddesigns.com/product/afm-art-blade/
[quoted image]

Weeks? Ha! I waited 4-6 months. In all fairness, i ordered and then covid hit and closed everything down. I’m sure it’s much closer to normal now. Very happy with mine and will be tearing my game apart so I can install soon.

4 months later
#1348 2 years ago
Quoted from pacman11:

Quick question what was the cost on a Classic Remake AFM when it was first release?

6200? 6300? Somewhere around there I think.

EDIT: now I’m thinking it was 6500/7300/8000 for the models originally.

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