(Topic ID: 86826)

Attack from Mars [AFM] - martians club

By OlDirty

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 2,246 posts
  • 309 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 hours ago by slizzap
  • Topic is favorited by 180 Pinsiders

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#111 7 years ago
Quoted from deljaso:

I have a question for my fellow AFM owners about your lock ramp.
Is there any adjustment to the diverter? If I hit a hard shot to that ramp when the diverter is open (lock not lit), the ball sometimes acts like it is hitting something behind the mother ship and comes back down the ramp entrance.
I can't find anything that looks like it is in the way. The only thing I can figure out is that the end of the metal diverter is slightly out from the plastic ramp. Like a hard shot that goes all the way around the guide is directed into the opposite side of the ramp (the side closer to the front of the machine).
It's not bent, but I'm wondering how much of a gap you guys have in yours? Do you get rejections on lock ramp shots very often?
Can this be adjusted? Or do I just have to live with it?
I am worried that if I push the pivot toward the back, that it won't open up when the lock is lit (the short end of the metal guide would hit the plastic ramp).
I am gonna take the glass off to clean up my playfield and will try to take a picture of what I am talking about if this doesn't make sense.

I know EXACTLY what you are talking about. I was having the exact same identical issue about 3 weeks ago. Unfortunately, I do not have an answer for you. My game started behaving "normally" and I have not seen this symptom in 2 weeks or so. I thought there might be a wiring loom or something keeping the ball from traversing up the ramp, but ever since I checked that area out, everything has been fine.

It's almost like the game was like "Uh oh, he's snooping around...better behave!"

I didn't adjust or touch a single thing. Wish I could help =/ ....

1 week later
#150 7 years ago

I am a bit late to the party. Brought my AFM home after nearly a full 20 year wait. Played it at a defunct laser tag place called QZar. Loved the game so much I would miss out on laser games I paid for just to keep playing.

So good to finally have it home. It was worth the wait.

Home (resized).jpgHome (resized).jpg

#153 7 years ago

Hey guys, anyone have both the Pinbits Blackout mod AND the Bill Ung saucer mod? How did you introduce both of these to your AFM? Anyone have a picture of these two mods in your AFM and how they are introduced to the factory wiring?

#157 7 years ago
Quoted from Imeh:

If you also use Bills expansion kit, you don't use the blackout from pinbits, the expansion kit does the blackout.

If that is the case, do you still swap J105 and J106 (like the Pinbits mod), or do you keep all connectors in their original locations?

1 month later
#175 7 years ago
Quoted from NPO:

If that is the case, do you still swap J105 and J106 (like the Pinbits mod), or do you keep all connectors in their original locations?

So I'll answer my own question for posterity's sake: you DO flip the connectors. If you don't, the Pinbits black-out mod will NOT work as it should.

#178 7 years ago

The longer people wait to buy one, the higher the price will get.

I am so happy to own my grail game.

#180 7 years ago

Man, a lot of AFMs coming home after Expo. Good to see .

2 months later
#210 7 years ago
Quoted from patrickvc:

My buddy is looking for the color dmd. Anyone know where to pick one up. The color dmd site says out of stock. They are all compatible regardless of title now correct?

Just get the LED version:

http://shop.colordmd.com/led-replacement-display-for-attack-from-mars-pinball-machine/

Cheaper and prolly no where near the power load of the LCD.

I'd even be willing to sell you my LCD ColorDMD so I could go LED.

Not kidding either.

2 weeks later
#218 7 years ago

Got my playfield touched up, fixed up, and at least 4 layers of clearcoat done. Reassembly begins today....!b25c091ff086741d833f7c0f208ba8c49dc6ab7c (resized).jpgb25c091ff086741d833f7c0f208ba8c49dc6ab7c (resized).jpg

-1
#221 7 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Let it cure as long as possible... as fast as afm plays i can see that thick clear getting damaged especially at edges....

It's been 2 weeks since the playfield came back, so I think we'll be good!

Heading to WeirPinball's now to begin!

#222 7 years ago
Quoted from jyeakley:

Very nice! Who did your touch up/clear?

Someone off the radar who is completely not in the pinball community - a automotive specialist who does it on the side, and boy, was it worth the price (read: way cheaper than the numbers this community is used to).

#224 7 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Id try to at least wait a month...... longer is always better but a month is usually the minimum from my experience....

With me being active duty, I don't have that luxury. I report to my new base about 1000 miles south of here, 28 February.

That being said, here's a quick picture of where we go today. I'll have more in my own thread.

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2 weeks later
#231 7 years ago
Quoted from Okarcades:

Just about finished with my afm. Added a few leds in this bad boy. My favorite is the blue flasher in the out hole. Adds so much more to the light show.
» YouTube video

Looks great! Man, you did some serious upgrades in the lighting department.

Here's mine. We just finished reassembly of the game. Did a PF restoration job to this one. Had damaged areas touched up, clearcoated at least 4 times, and then re-assembled, addressing any areas of concern like pair of flipper rebuilds, mylar reapplied to high traffic areas, all hardware run through tumblers, all plastic parts in the ultrasonic cleaner, pop bumpers rebuilt, ANYTHING electrically weird/trouble spots addressed and made like new again, plastic protectors throughout the game, and did some custom powercoating on the habit trails. The habit trails are to mimic the heat/fire emanating behind artillery or rockets/missiles (think the Jackpot animations). Figured we'd try something different.

All in all, I think it came out great!

680f5974b81a48a7923c9401d16ddd66c9107a5c (resized).jpg680f5974b81a48a7923c9401d16ddd66c9107a5c (resized).jpg

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1 month later
#255 7 years ago

So.............this happened tonight.

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Completed RTU 3x.

The biggest game on AFM I have ever had by far. Holy smokes.

I think I'll let the game chill for a week before I play it again....! Man, I LOVE this game.

1 week later
#276 7 years ago

Want to see what an $1100 box look like??? Sure - here you go!!!

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Getting time to do a PF swap soon....for the second time since February

2 months later
#292 6 years ago

Just got done changing a faulty drop target switch as the old one had finally given up the ghost. After putting it back in, I wanted to do a quick test.

Yeah........... that might have been my best "ball 1" ever.

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Kind of reminds me of the quote by Tom Cruise from The Color of Money:

It's like a nightmare.....it just keeps getting worse and worse.

For the machine that is .

3 months later
#311 6 years ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

I'm curious...seems like other games that have clubs have tons of page of postings. Only 7 pages for AFM? Why? Yes

Cause we're too busy having fun and playing the damn thing instead of talking about how many action figures we can hot glue gun onto it!

10 months later
#463 5 years ago
Quoted from Paul_from_Gilroy:

What's the story on "Dirty Pool"? I've been playing AFM for almost 10 years and I've never seen it. Today I pulled the glass off, started a game, and dropped a ball in the saucer hole while the 3-target bank was up. No Dirty Pool. I'm running 1.13 firmware. Am I missing something?

You have to destroy a saucer the normal way first. That way, the drop target will be down when the gate goes back up, THEN drop a ball in the scoop beneath the main saucer. Should register a DP.

If not, repeat everything above during multiball. should definitely happen then.

7 months later
#526 5 years ago
Quoted from Brunsie:

... or install a Kahr daughter board. .... Any suggestions/advice appreciated.

NO. Do not do that. Fix it right by replacing the problem component. No one needs to buy your problems if you ever sell the game.

I would snag one of these adjustable voltage regulators. They have been around a good number of years, and many people feel they are a solid replacement:

https://www.ezsbc.com/index.php/psu5.html#.XJMXGChKiM8

For the mounting nuts, I would anticipate the use of a ratchet on the nuts would "break" the solder joints. Or...you could use desolder rope to get as much of the excess solder off first, and then use a ratchet to gently "break loose" the nuts.

Final installation can be seen in this video. Note, the hexnuts are VERY close to a surface component, so make sure the hexnuts don't touch ANYTHING when you reinstall.

1 year later
#737 4 years ago
Quoted from Boof-Ed:

Just finishing up my cabinet restoration. I used some alternate decals and I’m pretty happy with the results.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Very nice work!

Those PFs in your first pictures - are those new and ready to be installed? If so, do you mind me asking how you are hanging those on the walls without damaging them?

I really want to hang "ready to install" PFs on the wall to minimize storage. I really like that idea/look!

Appreciate any insights!

2 months later
#839 3 years ago
Quoted from Kevlar51:

How difficult is a playfield swap for AFM? I've never done one, but my game included a NOS Bally playfield. The existing playfield isn't awful--it has wear across the inserts coming out of SOL, but besides that and too much mylar, it's in OK shape. But I'm staring at that new playfield and wondering what could be ...

Here is my experience doing it for the 2nd time.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/afm-tear-down

1 month later
#899 3 years ago
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:

Okay,
Getting mixed results here. If I replace F106 and turn on the machine, the insert lights briefly come on and then wig out. I get a "Gnd. short row 1 is stuck closed error" as seen below. It then goes to the regular game menu. Pressing enter for the test report does nothing. If I reset the power again without changing the fuse I get the check fuses 106 and 101 message. If I reset the game with a new fuse in but the lamp plugs unplugged (J121, 124, and 125) the same thing happens. Ideas? I have tried unplugging J208 and get the same result. Does this mean the short is on the board, or should I be looking for an error in the first row of the switch matrix (Launch button, Slam Tilt, Trough Eject, etc.). Thanks!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Try this:

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Switch_Matrix_Problems

You should NOT get multiple switches tripping if you follow the directions in the above link. If you do, problem lies on the MPU board.

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