Hi guys...quick help if possible. I'm wondering where this guide mounts?

20211211_111323 (resized).jpg

Top left corner above the ramp behind the saucer.

There are two holes back there for screw and metal thing sticking down.

LTG : )

Random question.

Do you guys always go for the super skill shot? Would there be a benefit not to?

Almost never. I prefer to work towards super jets.

I always do to try and
get a full right ramp or right orbit.!!

Nearly finished my new playfield for my new build.
This is my 3rd original Attack from Mars...what a machine! I am working more on a clean pinsound mix, all call outs finished, cleaned up and made stereo so far as well as all music. About half the sfx files to go.
And my favourite little jingle, War of the Worlds boot file.
Going custom decals as well, never liked how the art didn't meet at the front corners and all the green saucers!

20210920_065402 (resized).jpg

image001 (resized).jpg

received_1224894371331246 (resized).jpeg

received_1531154270599981 (resized).jpeg

received_3062803837372748 (resized).jpeg

received_719592539432636 (resized).jpeg

received_908364776543898 (resized).jpeg

received_952337629017733 (resized).jpeg

Doesn't super jets happen by itself without any effort during any decent game?

That's what I was thinking.

Picked up a second AFM. The wife wanted me to bring the players condition AFM from the bar but that wasn’t happening

66328102-393D-41F4-8942-08DC5B2AB5E4 (resized).jpeg

If the gate is up, I go for super skill shot to knock it down. If the gate is down, I don’t go for super skill shot.

The one reason you wouldn't go the super skill shot on a ramp or orbit is if you are trying to score the 1B for the combined 4 hurry-ups (2 ramps and 2 orbits). Typically I always go the super skill shot, firstly to lower the gate otherwise the right ramp however if I'm getting close to having a crack at the 1B hurry-up (and the gate is already lowered) that's when I'll just do the standard skill shot into the top rollover lanes.

There’s a hurry up worth 1 billion? I only know about the 100k hit the saucer/gate hurry up

Complete one ramp or orbit, and then hit the saucer/gate = 100M
Complete two ramps and/or orbits, and then hit the saucer/gate = 300M
Complete three ramps and/or orbits, and then hit the saucer/gate = 500M
Complete all four ramps and orbits = 1B (automatically awarded)

My AFM died Friday night with family around, was playing ok then after while in attract mode just GI lights were on. Totally dead.
I have had a hangover since and only just managed to check it, it would not boot and had the bong with only GI lights on.

Opened the backbox hoping it had external batteries which it did, moved a few ribbon cables and pushed a few chips and then turned it on.
All good, phew. Did some reading in between and a bit wiser for it.

Would have been very annoying if it was battery acid damage, if you can’t remember best check!

Great stuff. Thanks!!

So you have to have all 4 shots ready for the hurry up then hit each one so it activates the hurry up on each one right?

Yes you're right, as getting all 4 will activate Total Annihilation and you are automatically award the 1B

Doesn't matter if they aren't all ready for their hurry-up (although it makes it easier as you have less shots to hit). You just need to complete all 4 during the hurry-up timer - I believe the hurry-up timer is reset on starting the next hurry-up

I've been getting a slam tilt anytime the Martian letters I and A are struck at the same time. The switches are recognizing them and I resoldered the switch connections. All other letter combos that are struck are fine. It's only when the I and A are struck at the same time does it slam tilt.

Could a busted diode be causing me this? I can't figure this out. Thanks for any help.

I doubt it. Switch wired wrong or diode on backwards.

LTG : )

Thanks Lloyd. Did some more investigating and I think it's resolved now.

So wondering groups opinion on value of a fully restored AFM is. I refinished and redecaled cabinet installed Mirco Playfield rebuilt all mechanical components, kept it original with incandescents and original dmd plays 100%. I’ve owned it for over 10 years and it sits next to my original MM so thinking of perhaps converting it into a Godzilla premium. Hard to tell what it’s worth in this crazy pin market would love your opinions.
Thanks Al
0576D212-0CA9-4388-BD4D-193FE4C86589 (resized).jpeg54F8C19A-974B-4C7C-B8FC-E5D05184664A (resized).jpegB9F595E6-C14F-43F1-BA2B-BDA212FAB999 (resized).jpeg

Before you say it the right Martian target broke last week at our tournament replacement will be installed this weekend. Had 63 players in the tournament so the games got some use out of them. Now I have all year to fix what broke at the party.

Probably 10 grand+. I don't think i would seperate an MM/AFM pair for a new stern though, but that's me. You will have to buy it back for 12 grand a year from now if things keep up.
I'd also consider some better lighting and or better camera. Your description sounds likes it's really nice (and i believe it is), but IMO it doesn't show all too well in those pics.

I think it easily sells in less then 48 hours at 9k

A MM/AFM pair is tough to break up!

I just sold a minty one for over 10k and I am still suffering from PBSA bad. Guy had the cutest little girl who loves pinball so that’s helping.

Holy smokes.

I remember when I bought mine 3(ish) years ago for $3,900, I sunk in around $1,500 to restore it to like new, and was underwater with the game since I could buy a NIB remake out of the box for roughly the same and without the hassle of the restoration efforts.

Kinda nice to know there’s still a healthy market for the original.

Anyone know where this piece goes? Or what it's from?

Thanks

20211215_112817.jpg

Much appreciated.

PBSA?

Pinball separation anxiety? (Guessing)

Reminder, today is the last day of the sale.

For those they do not have these Big O Jiggly Martians, with or without the LED eyes, you are missing a great enhancement for your playfield.

-------------------

Mick's Pinball Christmas Sale

https://www.mickspinball.com/

Use Discount Code Santa2021 at time of checkout for a 10% savings.

Discount code valid on purchases dated
Dec. 20th - Dec. 31st

AFM & AFMr Big O Jiggly LED Martians, Red or Multi Colored Eyes
Big O Jiggly Martians, no LEDs, Just Bigger and Jiggly

Thank you all for the continuing support of my products,

Mick

Any question please PM me here.

Star Trek the Next Generation Products offered too.

Laser Cannons
Cannon Covers with Red, Green or Clear Domes
Red LED Oscillator’s, always on or just when the cannons are rotating

Big-O Martian Comparison (resized).jpg

I've got a ball stuck twice in the shooter lane area. Not sure if it's just by chance or not. Just curious if there's supposed to be a metal post of something where where stuck pinball is in the picture.

(Like what you see on the other side of the ball ejection area)

2f711e5aacb03ccb4ecfc26c36ded7f48463d57b.jpg

Pinball Separation Anxiety

That's how mine looks, so you aren't missing any components. I'm assuming this occurs when the trough coil is kicking a ball out into the shooter lane and it is bouncing off the shooter lane and right hand shooter rail into that hole - right? In which case I'd be marginally adjusting the metal tabs at the top and front of the kickout bracket to change the angle the ball is going into the shooter lane. Also check that you have the correct coil (spec) for the trough kickout

Thanks for the reply. I just put an extra pinball in where its getting stuck to prevent a stuck ball during game play. Lol

I'll fiddle around a bit and double check the coil. Much appreciated @manny65!

LOL - great ingenuity right there!! Nicely done

Sometimes the simplest solution is the best solution.

I think mine has a red star post there to prevent that. I'm not sure offhand exactly where it is, but it's very close to the shooter lane

Must be the same spot as mine.

Screenshot_20211231-215801_Firefox.jpg

There's a red star post below the trough kickout - you can see it in the pic https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/attack-from-mars-afm-martians-welcome/page/30#post-6685400 and my machine matches this

Edit: Haha ImNotNorm you beat me to it

Do any of you have the CPR mirrored backglass for AFM? Thoughts?

I don’t have the AFM one, but I got one for my WH2O and it’s very nice. So nice, that I’m considering replacing all the translites with CPR glass…

After two years of it sitting in a box i finally installed my AFM backglass this week. I was waiting to restore the game but it’s safe in there so what the hell. Anyway i think it looks great. Reinstalling the trim was a pain in the ass. My lift channel isnt in the best shape so i will need to replace it, the question is - is there a better option that accepts a slightly thicker glass and the light tub? I also did funhouse and on this one the System 11 trim was a good fit.

DC5957D9-382A-4051-AA77-88E2C4C93654 (resized).jpeg

I have been looking for an original AFM for a while and finally got one yesterday. Had to overpay a little in this current market, but thats ok. It was with the last owner for 20 years. It’s looks to be in ok condition, but hasn’t been gone through in many many years. A lot of dirt in hard to reach places and rubbers are probably 20 years old.

First issue that I need help with is the display. It turns on and works, but has a horizontal blank line constantly cycling down. I tried to reset the ribbon cables and nothing. Can someone point me in the right direction to troubleshoot?

Second issue is that a couple inserts in the center(mainly return to battle and attack from mars) are starting to flake. I think I read somewhere that you can use a clear super glue with a syringe to stabilize it?

BCC3E8FF-E90A-4B4C-9613-9A3A43BE42E9 (resized).jpeg

DEE91CBF-992F-45CA-809A-9C154FE1A91E (resized).jpeg

Reseat cables from CPU to AV board to DMD. If that doesn't help DMD or AV board has a serious issue.

LTG : )

The caps on you A/V board is most likely the issue https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#.22Rolling.22_Horizontal_Line_on_WPC-95_Display

You should get a ColorDMD anyway.

I would consider this if it’s a fix.

I did read in another forum topic about doing this because it doesn’t use the high voltage. But could the issue causing the problem now eventually cause more damage down the road? Or is it ok because it’s not powering anything anymore?