(Topic ID: 86826)

Attack from Mars [AFM] - martians club

By OlDirty

8 years ago


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  • 1,788 posts
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  • Latest reply 3 days ago by ORF
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There are 1,788 posts in this topic. You are on page 28 of 36.
#1351 11 months ago

I installed a UV strip light behind the trim in my closet doors. I moved AFM under it and it's glorious. Picture doesn't do it justice

20210824_163410 (resized).jpg
#1352 11 months ago

Wow! How Cool. Nicely Done.

#1353 11 months ago
Quoted from whthrs166:

Wow! How Cool. Nicely Done.

The UV paint is so cool, it gets a bit washed out with the GI when playing but it's still noticeable. Wondering if the remake or the mirco playfield used UV paint

#1354 11 months ago
Quoted from Dr_Gonzo:

Wondering if the remake or the mirco playfield used UV paint

Good question. Maybe it will be worth a trip over to the remake thread to get an answer!

#1355 11 months ago

I moved and my game stopped working. It took me almost 8 months with all the moving stuff but I finally been working on finishing off the new game room and fixed the AFM. I have owned the game probably 15 yrs or so and I like to give it a little love every now and then. I had a chrome lockdown bar and coin door laying around that I added to the game. I think it looks great. I am going to do a couple of more mods (speaker panel and target decals) and call it good for a while again. The game plays great.....

IMG_0670 (resized).jpegIMG_0671 (resized).jpegIMG_0673 (resized).jpegIMG_0674 (resized).jpeg
#1356 11 months ago

I installed the gozmod a few weeks ago and it functioned fine. Now, it won't turn red for saucer hits, just green lights. I installed bills mini saucer mod after the gozmod, I'm wondering if that's somehow an issue? I don't really see how unless it's the wire coming off the transistor for the saucer mod that's the problem. I emailed gozzle a few days ago with no reply, just emailed mezel where I bought it from. Does anyone else have both mods? Anyone had this issue?

Added 9 months ago:

Edit, it was a broken ground wire on my plug coming out of the saucer. Fixed and working great now.

#1357 11 months ago
Quoted from Dr_Gonzo:

Does anyone else have both mods? Anyone had this issue?

Yes i have both.
The two won't interfer with each other.
But i had i problem with the gozmod not changing color.
The "fish-paper" underneath the gozmod moved somehow, and the gozmod shortned a chip, contacting the base.
After contacting Gozmod directly, i decided to upgrade to the GozMod Bullet. (https://gozmod.gozzled.com/flavours.html)
Working alongside the Bill Ung mod flawlessy since.

#1358 11 months ago
Quoted from Thor-NL:

Yes i have both.
The two won't interfer with each other.
But i had i problem with the gozmod not changing color.
The "fish-paper" underneath the gozmod moved somehow, and the gozmod shortned a chip, contacting the base.
After contacting Gozmod directly, i decided to upgrade to the GozMod Bullet. (https://gozmod.gozzled.com/flavours.html)
Working alongside the Bill Ung mod flawlessy since.

Good to know, I'll see if I have the same issue with the fish paper. I assume I bought the bullet version, but the website didn't specify.

https://mezelmods.com/products/attack-from-mars-pinball-interactive-mothership-upgrade

#1359 11 months ago
Quoted from Dr_Gonzo:

Wondering if the remake or the mirco playfield used UV paint

I have a Mirco playfield in mine. It also glows under a black light:

E2CF6D09-500B-4D0A-8755-20561560AF98 (resized).jpeg
#1360 11 months ago
Quoted from Thor-NL:

Yes i have both.
The two won't interfer with each other.
But i had i problem with the gozmod not changing color.
The "fish-paper" underneath the gozmod moved somehow, and the gozmod shortned a chip, contacting the base.
After contacting Gozmod directly, i decided to upgrade to the GozMod Bullet. (https://gozmod.gozzled.com/flavours.html)
Working alongside the Bill Ung mod flawlessy since.

I found a couple small holes where it could have been shorting though. I put a couple of layers of electrical tape over them but no change. My gozmod is white and on his site the bullet is black. I wonder if I have a lesser version. I was going to ping goz here but hasn't been seen since May

#1361 11 months ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

I have a Mirco playfield in mine. It also glows under a black light:[quoted image]

Nice, I'm glad they kept it. Looks great

#1362 11 months ago
Quoted from Dr_Gonzo:

I put a couple of layers of electrical tape over them but no change.

If it is what happened to mine, the chip is fried and have to go in for repair.

Back in the day Martin was very responsive, and the service was top notch.

But like you said, he has not been here since May, so perhaps you have better luck with Mezelmods now, and they could arrange a swap as customer-service ?

(PS nice diversive collection you have, congrats!)

#1363 11 months ago
Quoted from Thor-NL:

If it is what happened to mine, the chip is fried and have to go in for repair.
Back in the day Martin was very responsive, and the service was top notch.
But like you said, he has not been here since May, so perhaps you have better luck with Mezelmods now, and they could arrange a swap as customer-service ?
(PS nice diversive collection you have, congrats!)

I was worried it was fried when you said you replaced it. Bummer. The 4 screws that hold the board tighten it down on the fish paper and metal underneath, it must have wore through due to the saucer vibration since it worked initially. Mezel should help, but it worries me it will happen again. Nice collection you have as well

1 month later
#1364 10 months ago

Happy to join the club--again! I've owned two AFMs in the past and sold them after a few years, but my first love has returned to me. Just picked up an AFM that was originally in a bowling alley 20 years ago, then bought by a friend of mine who has now sold it to me. The machine has a few minor project elements, so I'll post a few questions here separately, but first I'm just sharing an amusing note found on the lightboard from the machine's bowling alley days. My friend who sold me the machine did great work on the power driver board, so I don't have any of the concerns expressed by ED 20 years ago. My friend left the lightboard note alone as part of the machine's legacy, but I thought it would be fun to share the note here before I remove it.

AFM Lightboard (resized).JPG
#1365 10 months ago
Quoted from JOESCHALL:

Happy to join the club--again! I've owned two AFMs in the past and sold them after a few years, but my first love has returned to me. Just picked up an AFM that was originally in a bowling alley 20 years ago, then bought by a friend of mine who has now sold it to me. The machine has a few minor project elements, so I'll post a few questions here separately, but first I'm just sharing an amusing note found on the lightboard from the machine's bowling alley days. My friend who sold me the machine did great work on the power driver board, so I don't have any of the concerns expressed by ED 20 years ago. My friend left the lightboard note alone as part of the machine's legacy, but I thought it would be fun to share the note here before I remove it.
[quoted image]

The word attension got my attention.

#1366 10 months ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

The word attension got my attention.

LOL. It's a good point. Perhaps ED was French . . .

#1367 10 months ago

Help needed regarding switching out the home ROM on AFM so the machine can accept coin drop. This machine will be routed, so the "free play only" option won't work for me as it did for the previous owner who installed the chip. Can someone point me to exactly what chip or chips I need to ensure the latest code with coin drop, where the chips go, and where I can purchase them? I have installed chips before, but I remain clueless about these particular issues. Photo below.

Thanks for any insight.

AFM Chip (resized).JPG
#1369 10 months ago
Quoted from scooter8416:

I'm thinking you'd want V1.1 from

Thanks so much. Is it logical that I would just need the CPU ROM 1.1 or would I need to swap in the sound 1.1 as well?

#1370 10 months ago
Quoted from JOESCHALL:

Is it logical that I would just need the CPU ROM 1.1

This.

LTG : )

#1371 10 months ago

Thanks, Lloyd!

#1372 10 months ago
Quoted from JOESCHALL:

Help needed regarding switching out the home ROM on AFM so the machine can accept coin drop. This machine will be routed, so the "free play only" option won't work for me as it did for the previous owner who installed the chip. Can someone point me to exactly what chip or chips I need to ensure the latest code with coin drop, where the chips go, and where I can purchase them? I have installed chips before, but I remain clueless about these particular issues. Photo below.
Thanks for any insight.
[quoted image]

The 1.13b rom is the similar to what you have but allows coins. It’s an unofficial ROM but includes Dirty Pool.

http://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=ROMS017

#1373 10 months ago
Quoted from Kevlar51:

The 1.13b rom is the similar to what you have but allows coins. It’s an unofficial ROM but includes Dirty Pool.

http://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=ROMS017

Cool. Thanks so much. Dirty Pool is the bomb.

#1374 10 months ago

I'm not sure what roms are in my game, but i'll assume original.
Is there a reason to change change them out?
What the hell is dirty pool?

#1375 10 months ago
Quoted from jcar302:

I'm not sure what roms are in my game, but i'll assume original.
Is there a reason to change change them out?
What the hell is dirty pool?

Dirty Pool - Start any multiball with the Saucer gate down. Destroy the saucer. Then we precision timing and luck, as the gate starts to close shoot another ball inside the gate but do NOT shoot it straight down the center target. Ultimately you want the ball "trapped" behind the gate. Now with one of the other balls shoot the gate/shield in a manner that knocks the "trapped" ball down the hole. The game will display DIRTY POOL on the DMD, emit a cool call out, and instantly destroy the next Saucer on the list! This feature is also used in other games like Spiderman, Iron Maiden, and a few others.

#1376 10 months ago

wrong thread

#1377 10 months ago
Quoted from djreddog:

Dirty Pool - Start any multiball with the Saucer gate down. Destroy the saucer. Then we precision timing and luck, as the gate starts to close shoot another ball inside the gate but do NOT shoot it straight down the center target. Ultimately you want the ball "trapped" behind the gate. Now with one of the other balls shoot the gate/shield in a manner that knocks the "trapped" ball down the hole. The game will display DIRTY POOL on the DMD, emit a cool call out, and instantly destroy the next Saucer on the list! This feature is also used in other games like Spiderman, Iron Maiden, and a few others.

Yep getting Dirty Pool is always fun and great if you can use it on one of the later saucers.

Dirty Pool was first used in TAF and I believe Jackpot also has one.

#1378 10 months ago
Quoted from jcar302:

I'm not sure what roms are in my game,

Hit the enter button and see what the DMD says.

LTG : )

#1379 10 months ago
Quoted from LTG:

Hit the enter button and see what the DMD says.
LTG : )

Good tip.
So after doing so, says I have Rev 1.0.
Should I goto a newer version?

#1380 10 months ago

SOL hole area was really bad and had been badly repaired before. Some filling, sanding, decal cutting and Mylar soon had it looking good.
Cliffy now sits flat and making the shot is so much easier now. Ruled the universe after a couple of games of finishing it!

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#1381 10 months ago

I need advice on preparing and replacing insert decals. As the pics below show, I have just a few damaged decals over inserts, ranging from some with white "bubbles" underneath (even though the decals are smooth) to a few where the decal is missing and the glass is "rough" or where there is a missing decal and flaking around the edges. There is no mylar over these insert areas--it's an original playfield with clearcoat (I believe).

I have a set of laminated decals, an exacto knife, naptha (which I have previously used to remove glue residue after mylar removal), and a can of air to use the "cold freeze" method if needed. Obviously I need to replace the decals where there is simply no print left, but I'm more tentative about replacing smooth decals where there is unsightly white but a smooth surface and whether I might do damage in the process. Looking for any advice on method, surface preparation, and decal installation. Many thanks!

AFM1 (resized).JPGAFM2 (resized).JPGAFM3 (resized).JPGAFM4 (resized).JPGAFM5 (resized).JPG
#1382 10 months ago
Quoted from JOESCHALL:

I need advice on preparing and replacing insert decals. As the pics below show, I have just a few damaged decals over inserts, ranging from some with white "bubbles" underneath (even though the decals are smooth) to a few where the decal is missing and the glass is "rough" or where there is a missing decal and flaking around the edges. There is no mylar over these insert areas--it's an original playfield with clearcoat (I believe).
I have a set of laminated decals, an exacto knife, naptha (which I have previously used to remove glue residue after mylar removal), and a can of air to use the "cold freeze" method if needed. Obviously I need to replace the decals where there is simply no print left, but I'm more tentative about replacing smooth decals where there is unsightly white but a smooth surface and whether I might do damage in the process. Looking for any advice on method, surface preparation, and decal installation. Many thanks![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

My personal approach below.

Try to preserve as many of the existing decals as possible (except where they are cut in half). The new decals won't have the "cloudy" appearance of the originals.

Where possible, I created water slide decals, put it on the insert, and covered with a UV-hardened resin. This isn't feasible with white lettering, as my printer couldn't handle it.

Not sure if you've ordered your insert decals yet. The planetary pinball decals are frustrating to work with. They need to be trimmed to actually fit in the insert to be flush with the playfield surface, and the typeface doesn't match the game on some of the decals (Return to Battle looks awful).

I'd also ordered another set of decals from Europe. The typeface matches the game, which is nice, but they still need to be trimmed, same as PPS. Unfortunately, once I peeled off a decal, I found the black letters all had white edges from the printing, which made them more or less useless.

Try and retain the intact decals as best you can on the playfield. With an x-acto knife, cut a tiny hole in the edge, and using a syringe, squirt a bit of UV resin under the decal, then harden with the UV light.

I used Solarez UV resin: amazon.com link »

Pour it into the insert, then place a stiff piece of mylar over it to flatten it out even with the playfield, then harden with a UV flashlight: amazon.com link »

Curing the UV takes a couple minutes: shine the light on the resin for 5 seconds, leave off for 30 seconds, then another 5 seconds, leave off for 30, then leave on for another 30 (follow the directions on the bottle--my times might be off, but that's the gist).

This is not a perfect solution (stripping everything and clearcoating is more professional for sure); but I'm much happier with the inserts where I used the resin than the inserts where I used the stickers I purchased.

After about 8 months of use, the resin still holds, though there's some chipping around the edges.

#1383 10 months ago

Thanks, Kevlar51! Awesome detail, and some things I would never have thought of. Much obliged!

1 week later
#1384 9 months ago

Any recommendations for shaker motors for AFM?

#1385 9 months ago
Quoted from Kevlar51:

Any recommendations for shaker motors for AFM?

Pinshakers. Period.

#1386 9 months ago

Finally got around to installing the Bill Ung saucer kit and figured I'd wax and clean the PF while I was at it. 1st time doing this since I've own the game. I noticed the rubber post sleeves next to the ramp entries are 2 different sizes. One is the slim version and the other is the thicker standard version like titan sells. Which one is correct?

Also, can any one fill me in on what is correct for washer placement on the ramps and wire forms?

Left & Right wire forms have a washer under the nyloc nuts down by the slings.
Left ramp has x2 washers under under the nyloc nuts, none between sling plastics and wireforms
Right ramp has washer under ramp on the tall post and a washer under the nyloc nut
Is this correct?

Thanks!

20211024_200321 (resized).jpg
#1387 9 months ago

Just added clear green targets with target lights .

IMG_20211028_190124_HDR (resized).jpgIMG_20211028_190149_1_HDR (resized).jpgIMG_20211028_190239_HDR (resized).jpg
#1388 9 months ago
Quoted from djreddog:

Pinshakers. Period.

I took a look, pretty neat.
How do you have it set to interact with gameplay?

#1389 9 months ago
Quoted from jcar302:

I took a look, pretty neat.
How do you have it set to interact with gameplay?

I can’t remember all the triggers. Here is what I recall. Any ball launch. Pop bumpers activating. Shots to the saucer target. Blowing up the saucer. Hitting Martian’s in Martian MB. And a few more.

#1391 9 months ago

Anyone have the part number for the grommet on the Main Saucer Bracket (04-10319.1)?

pasted_image (resized).png
#1393 9 months ago

What did I fry?

Working on AFM, game on, duh, and I Dropped the screwdriver and something shorted. Game rebooted. Upon reboot, says check fuses 101 and 106. Pulled them out, checked ok. Proceeded to pull every fuse, all check ok. Went ahead and replaced 101 and 106, no change. No coils fire in test mode.

So what got fried?

#1394 9 months ago
Quoted from Kevlar51:

Any recommendations for shaker motors for AFM?

If you have a PinSound, their Motion Control shaker is a must.

#1395 9 months ago
Quoted from Staf:

Just added clear green targets with target lights .
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Those are cool. Are they wired to the corresponding letter, so illuminated in sync?

How did you make them, or did you buy them that way (from where)?

#1396 9 months ago
Quoted from Dr_Gonzo:

The UV paint is so cool, it gets a bit washed out with the GI when playing but it's still noticeable. Wondering if the remake or the mirco playfield used UV paint

All I have is a small UV flashlight, but here is my LE remake playfield. The green plastic protectors, Titan GITD rings, and even the flipper toppers and VUK building mods I produce/sell all glow under UV. Almost forgot, I also changed out all of my star posts and the thin post at the upper left of the left wireframe from red to fluorescent green ones from Pinball Life (originally used on the DE TMNT pin).

IMG_6655.JPG

#1397 9 months ago
Quoted from djreddog:

What did I fry?
Working on AFM, game on, duh, and I Dropped the screwdriver and something shorted. Game rebooted. Upon reboot, says check fuses 101 and 106. Pulled them out, checked ok. Proceeded to pull every fuse, all check ok. Went ahead and replaced 101 and 106, no change. No coils fire in test mode.
So what got fried?

Here's what the manual says (for more places to check):

Check Fuses F101 and F106 and Opto 12V Supply
This message will be displayed if the game senses that all optical switches are not functioning. This
usually occurs when there is no 12V supply to the playfield optics.
The problem is likely to be a blown fuse (F109), or at connectors J138, J139, J140 or J141 on the
power driver board.

#1398 9 months ago
Quoted from djreddog:

So what got fried?

Check the voltage test points on the driver board, see what's missing.

LTG : )

#1399 9 months ago

Yay... finally after 5+ years and thousands of games.....it was so awesome
20211031_002806 (resized).jpg
20211031_002749 (resized).jpg

#1400 9 months ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Yay... finally after 5+ years and thousands of games.....it was so awesome
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Congrats!

I've yet to do it (but my 11 year old's gotten it 3 times). Last week I got all the gems lit except Martian freakin' Multiball. Unbelievable!

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