I installed a UV strip light behind the trim in my closet doors. I moved AFM under it and it's glorious. Picture doesn't do it justice

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Wow! How Cool. Nicely Done.

The UV paint is so cool, it gets a bit washed out with the GI when playing but it's still noticeable. Wondering if the remake or the mirco playfield used UV paint

Good question. Maybe it will be worth a trip over to the remake thread to get an answer!

I moved and my game stopped working. It took me almost 8 months with all the moving stuff but I finally been working on finishing off the new game room and fixed the AFM. I have owned the game probably 15 yrs or so and I like to give it a little love every now and then. I had a chrome lockdown bar and coin door laying around that I added to the game. I think it looks great. I am going to do a couple of more mods (speaker panel and target decals) and call it good for a while again. The game plays great.....

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I installed the gozmod a few weeks ago and it functioned fine. Now, it won't turn red for saucer hits, just green lights. I installed bills mini saucer mod after the gozmod, I'm wondering if that's somehow an issue? I don't really see how unless it's the wire coming off the transistor for the saucer mod that's the problem. I emailed gozzle a few days ago with no reply, just emailed mezel where I bought it from. Does anyone else have both mods? Anyone had this issue?

Edit, it was a broken ground wire on my plug coming out of the saucer. Fixed and working great now.

Yes i have both.
The two won't interfer with each other.
But i had i problem with the gozmod not changing color.
The "fish-paper" underneath the gozmod moved somehow, and the gozmod shortned a chip, contacting the base.
After contacting Gozmod directly, i decided to upgrade to the GozMod Bullet. (https://gozmod.gozzled.com/flavours.html)
Working alongside the Bill Ung mod flawlessy since.

Good to know, I'll see if I have the same issue with the fish paper. I assume I bought the bullet version, but the website didn't specify.

https://mezelmods.com/products/attack-from-mars-pinball-interactive-mothership-upgrade

I have a Mirco playfield in mine. It also glows under a black light:

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I found a couple small holes where it could have been shorting though. I put a couple of layers of electrical tape over them but no change. My gozmod is white and on his site the bullet is black. I wonder if I have a lesser version. I was going to ping goz here but hasn't been seen since May

Nice, I'm glad they kept it. Looks great

If it is what happened to mine, the chip is fried and have to go in for repair.

Back in the day Martin was very responsive, and the service was top notch.

But like you said, he has not been here since May, so perhaps you have better luck with Mezelmods now, and they could arrange a swap as customer-service ?

(PS nice diversive collection you have, congrats!)

I was worried it was fried when you said you replaced it. Bummer. The 4 screws that hold the board tighten it down on the fish paper and metal underneath, it must have wore through due to the saucer vibration since it worked initially. Mezel should help, but it worries me it will happen again. Nice collection you have as well

Happy to join the club--again! I've owned two AFMs in the past and sold them after a few years, but my first love has returned to me. Just picked up an AFM that was originally in a bowling alley 20 years ago, then bought by a friend of mine who has now sold it to me. The machine has a few minor project elements, so I'll post a few questions here separately, but first I'm just sharing an amusing note found on the lightboard from the machine's bowling alley days. My friend who sold me the machine did great work on the power driver board, so I don't have any of the concerns expressed by ED 20 years ago. My friend left the lightboard note alone as part of the machine's legacy, but I thought it would be fun to share the note here before I remove it.

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The word attension got my attention.

LOL. It's a good point. Perhaps ED was French . . .

Help needed regarding switching out the home ROM on AFM so the machine can accept coin drop. This machine will be routed, so the "free play only" option won't work for me as it did for the previous owner who installed the chip. Can someone point me to exactly what chip or chips I need to ensure the latest code with coin drop, where the chips go, and where I can purchase them? I have installed chips before, but I remain clueless about these particular issues. Photo below.

Thanks for any insight.

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I'm thinking you'd want V1.1 from;

https://mattsbasementarcade.com/product/attack-from-mars-pinball-cpu-rom-1-1-g11-bally-williams-eprom/

Thanks so much. Is it logical that I would just need the CPU ROM 1.1 or would I need to swap in the sound 1.1 as well?

This.

LTG : )

Thanks, Lloyd!

The 1.13b rom is the similar to what you have but allows coins. It’s an unofficial ROM but includes Dirty Pool.

http://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=ROMS017

Cool. Thanks so much. Dirty Pool is the bomb.

I'm not sure what roms are in my game, but i'll assume original.
Is there a reason to change change them out?
What the hell is dirty pool?

Dirty Pool - Start any multiball with the Saucer gate down. Destroy the saucer. Then we precision timing and luck, as the gate starts to close shoot another ball inside the gate but do NOT shoot it straight down the center target. Ultimately you want the ball "trapped" behind the gate. Now with one of the other balls shoot the gate/shield in a manner that knocks the "trapped" ball down the hole. The game will display DIRTY POOL on the DMD, emit a cool call out, and instantly destroy the next Saucer on the list! This feature is also used in other games like Spiderman, Iron Maiden, and a few others.

wrong thread

Yep getting Dirty Pool is always fun and great if you can use it on one of the later saucers.

Dirty Pool was first used in TAF and I believe Jackpot also has one.

Hit the enter button and see what the DMD says.

LTG : )

Good tip.
So after doing so, says I have Rev 1.0.
Should I goto a newer version?

SOL hole area was really bad and had been badly repaired before. Some filling, sanding, decal cutting and Mylar soon had it looking good.
Cliffy now sits flat and making the shot is so much easier now. Ruled the universe after a couple of games of finishing it!

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I need advice on preparing and replacing insert decals. As the pics below show, I have just a few damaged decals over inserts, ranging from some with white "bubbles" underneath (even though the decals are smooth) to a few where the decal is missing and the glass is "rough" or where there is a missing decal and flaking around the edges. There is no mylar over these insert areas--it's an original playfield with clearcoat (I believe).

I have a set of laminated decals, an exacto knife, naptha (which I have previously used to remove glue residue after mylar removal), and a can of air to use the "cold freeze" method if needed. Obviously I need to replace the decals where there is simply no print left, but I'm more tentative about replacing smooth decals where there is unsightly white but a smooth surface and whether I might do damage in the process. Looking for any advice on method, surface preparation, and decal installation. Many thanks!

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My personal approach below.

Try to preserve as many of the existing decals as possible (except where they are cut in half). The new decals won't have the "cloudy" appearance of the originals.

Where possible, I created water slide decals, put it on the insert, and covered with a UV-hardened resin. This isn't feasible with white lettering, as my printer couldn't handle it.

Not sure if you've ordered your insert decals yet. The planetary pinball decals are frustrating to work with. They need to be trimmed to actually fit in the insert to be flush with the playfield surface, and the typeface doesn't match the game on some of the decals (Return to Battle looks awful).

I'd also ordered another set of decals from Europe. The typeface matches the game, which is nice, but they still need to be trimmed, same as PPS. Unfortunately, once I peeled off a decal, I found the black letters all had white edges from the printing, which made them more or less useless.

Try and retain the intact decals as best you can on the playfield. With an x-acto knife, cut a tiny hole in the edge, and using a syringe, squirt a bit of UV resin under the decal, then harden with the UV light.

I used Solarez UV resin: https://www.amazon.com/SOLAREZ-Fly-Tie-Cure-Resin/dp/B07MLTL3FM/ref=sr_1_14

Pour it into the insert, then place a stiff piece of mylar over it to flatten it out even with the playfield, then harden with a UV flashlight: https://www.amazon.com/LETION-Flashlight-Highlight-Waterproof-Detection/dp/B07X1H5TJQ/ref=sr_1_6

Curing the UV takes a couple minutes: shine the light on the resin for 5 seconds, leave off for 30 seconds, then another 5 seconds, leave off for 30, then leave on for another 30 (follow the directions on the bottle--my times might be off, but that's the gist).

This is not a perfect solution (stripping everything and clearcoating is more professional for sure); but I'm much happier with the inserts where I used the resin than the inserts where I used the stickers I purchased.

After about 8 months of use, the resin still holds, though there's some chipping around the edges.

Thanks, Kevlar51! Awesome detail, and some things I would never have thought of. Much obliged!

Any recommendations for shaker motors for AFM?

Pinshakers. Period.

Finally got around to installing the Bill Ung saucer kit and figured I'd wax and clean the PF while I was at it. 1st time doing this since I've own the game. I noticed the rubber post sleeves next to the ramp entries are 2 different sizes. One is the slim version and the other is the thicker standard version like titan sells. Which one is correct?

Also, can any one fill me in on what is correct for washer placement on the ramps and wire forms?

Left & Right wire forms have a washer under the nyloc nuts down by the slings.
Left ramp has x2 washers under under the nyloc nuts, none between sling plastics and wireforms
Right ramp has washer under ramp on the tall post and a washer under the nyloc nut
Is this correct?

Thanks!

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Just added clear green targets with target lights .

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I took a look, pretty neat.
How do you have it set to interact with gameplay?

I can’t remember all the triggers. Here is what I recall. Any ball launch. Pop bumpers activating. Shots to the saucer target. Blowing up the saucer. Hitting Martian’s in Martian MB. And a few more.

Dupe.

Anyone have the part number for the grommet on the Main Saucer Bracket (04-10319.1)?

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No promises, but I think it might be 23-6557 https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-rubber-bumper-pluggrommet.html

It's listed in the AFM BOM under the Saucer Assembly https://www.ipdb.org/files/3781/Bally_1995_Attack_from_Mars_Parts_List.txt

What did I fry?

Working on AFM, game on, duh, and I Dropped the screwdriver and something shorted. Game rebooted. Upon reboot, says check fuses 101 and 106. Pulled them out, checked ok. Proceeded to pull every fuse, all check ok. Went ahead and replaced 101 and 106, no change. No coils fire in test mode.

So what got fried?

If you have a PinSound, their Motion Control shaker is a must.

Those are cool. Are they wired to the corresponding letter, so illuminated in sync?

How did you make them, or did you buy them that way (from where)?

All I have is a small UV flashlight, but here is my LE remake playfield. The green plastic protectors, Titan GITD rings, and even the flipper toppers and VUK building mods I produce/sell all glow under UV. Almost forgot, I also changed out all of my star posts and the thin post at the upper left of the left wireframe from red to fluorescent green ones from Pinball Life (originally used on the DE TMNT pin).

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Here's what the manual says (for more places to check):

Check Fuses F101 and F106 and Opto 12V Supply
This message will be displayed if the game senses that all optical switches are not functioning. This
usually occurs when there is no 12V supply to the playfield optics.
The problem is likely to be a blown fuse (F109), or at connectors J138, J139, J140 or J141 on the
power driver board.

Check the voltage test points on the driver board, see what's missing.

LTG : )

Yay... finally after 5+ years and thousands of games.....it was so awesome
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Congrats!

I've yet to do it (but my 11 year old's gotten it 3 times). Last week I got all the gems lit except Martian freakin' Multiball. Unbelievable!