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(Topic ID: 86826)

Attack from Mars [AFM] - martians club


By OlDirty

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 1,025 posts
  • 213 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by Kevlar51
  • Topic is favorited by 131 Pinsiders

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There are 1025 posts in this topic. You are on page 20 of 21.
#951 63 days ago

I have a Mirco playfield in my game. I play the shit out of it, and it’s easily the most beat on game in my collection (friends and family love it). No issues. Still looks as good as the day it was new. Dmacy and myself (mostly dmacy though) too the liberty of protecting the high wear edges with Mylar. This includes on the front edge of the force field target bank and under the pops. We also put down small strips under the ramp flaps and I think the edge of the outhole. Probably overkill, but I’d rather be safe than sorry.

#952 63 days ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

I have a Mirco playfield in my game. I play the shit out of it, and it’s easily the most beat on game in my collection (friends and family love it). No issues. Still looks as good as the day it was new. Dmacy and myself (mostly dmacy though) too the liberty of protecting the high wear edges with Mylar. This includes on the front edge of the force field target bank and under the pops. We also put down small strips under the ramp flaps and I think the edge of the outhole. Probably overkill, but I’d rather be safe than sorry.

I'd recommend a strip of mylar about two inches wide and 5" long over the inserts leading up to the SOL scoop. Those get beat up from balls ejecting out of the scoop.

#953 62 days ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

I'd recommend a strip of mylar about two inches wide and 5" long over the inserts leading up to the SOL scoop. Those get beat up from balls ejecting out of the scoop.

What is the tick to putting this down, and preventing balls from rolling over it and being redirected when they hit the edge of the Mylar?

#954 62 days ago
Quoted from djreddog:

What is the tick to putting this down, and preventing balls from rolling over it and being redirected when they hit the edge of the Mylar?

I've not had that problem. Not sure how thick my mylar is, but I bought a big sheet years ago I think from pinballlife. My inserts had some wear, so after I put decals on, I put a strip of mylar down to protect them. A good coat of wax first, and I tucked the one end under the SOL cliffy protector. I don't even notice it when playing, can't see it and I have never seen a ball redirect, not even a slow roller.

#955 62 days ago

Is there anywhere to buy the GozMod (allows big saucer to change colors) in the U.S. anymore. I don't see it at Marco Specialities now.

#956 57 days ago

Hey All

Doing AFM shop job..

What is the best method to clean the light boards in the game.. so many results when searched that it doesn’t come up!..

Boards have black grime on them, tried spraying with IPA Solvent but not shifting it..

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#957 57 days ago
Quoted from Pinhead1982:

method to clean the light boards in the game..

I spray them down with 409 or Fantastic. Further clean with a brush of some kind. Rinse thoroughly.

LTG : )

#958 57 days ago
Quoted from Pinhead1982:

Hey All
Doing AFM shop job..
What is the best method to clean the light boards in the game.. so many results when searched that it doesn’t come up!..
Boards have black grime on them, tried spraying with IPA Solvent but not shifting it.. [quoted image]

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-do-you-clean-your-boards covers various options.

With lamp boards there's less components so should be easy to clean - either manually, ultrasonic wash (if you have one) or dishwasher (if your wife will let you ). There are PCB washing solutions but others just use a dish detergent (cheap degreaser)

#959 52 days ago

Progress report. Slow going but the playfield swap is coming along. I broke a few switches and posts i the swap but need to get fully back together before ordering. Only thingnIm murky on is GI wiring in pops. Gotta look for old photos.

This thing is going to be sweet
Already has newer cabinet wrap and color DMD.
Finishing up full playfield swap.
Added Blackbox decal.
Will have supplemental spotlights and maybe a backstrip light.
Mirror blades are ready
Topside metal polished.
Have the upgraded lit saucer ready to go into my hand painted saucers.
Full cliffy set and plastic protectors for 30 more years of fun.

This has been a great learning experience.

May do another playfield swap... next year.

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#960 48 days ago

Hey All

Looking for the post(s) that support the left wireform at the up kicker.. anyone know where I can buy these..

Thanks

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#961 48 days ago

EDIT: Removing my bad advice on hex posts

#962 48 days ago
Quoted from Pinhead1982:

Hey All
Looking for the post(s) that support the left wireform at the up kicker.. anyone know where I can buy these..
Thanks [quoted image]

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#963 48 days ago
Quoted from Pinhead1982:

Hey All
Looking for the post(s) that support the left wireform at the up kicker.. anyone know where I can buy these..
Thanks [quoted image]

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#964 48 days ago

Thanks sataneatscheese

Mine has sheered off in the T nut ☹️

Looking where I can buy

Thanks

#965 48 days ago
Quoted from Pinhead1982:

Thanks sataneatscheese
Mine has sheered off in the T nut ☹️
Looking where I can buy
Thanks

From the parts list there are 3 Male-Female hex standoff posts
02-5239-1 mf-stndff 8-32x1.82 5/16hex
02-5239-2 mf-stndff 8-32x1.88 5/16hex
02-5239-3 mf-stndff 8-32x2.50 5/16hex

From sataneatscheese pic above it looks like it's ~45mm (there a bit of parallax error on the pic), so think it's 02-5239-1 as 1.82" is 46mm. Unfortunately the only supplier referencing that part is out of stock https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/02-5239-1.html

This post supports the wireform and has another post screwed into the top of it to stop ball hangs
AFM Post (resized).jpg

I find it strange that there isn't a supply of these posts given the AFMR, unless they use something slightly different although it looks similar in the this post
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/attack-from-mars-remake-afmr-owners-club/page/52#post-4175678

#966 48 days ago

pinhead1982 the best replacement hex standoff post I've found is this one https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/254-5055-02

It's 1.75" long compared to 1.82" for the original, so you could use it and a small washer 0.07" thick (1.8mm) - hopefully this would get you up and going

#967 44 days ago

I’m getting close to getting my playfield swap finished!
I have a few gremlins I’m hunting down

1. The Vuks on the right side are not working. These consist of the pop bumpers, right sling, and lower right alien. Anybody got any ideas about where a common failure would hit these?
Other items I think I’m good on but still to do.
2. Still hunting down a rogue grounded item in my bottom ligtht string. Got a new box of fuses coming tonight to help me find it.
3. The left vuk sensor isn’t working. Just ordered a new one. Machine powers on and continuously runs the vuk there so I’m hoping replacing this helps.
Installing the lit UFO kit while I wait… so close!
Last thing will be cable management followed by mirror blades. It’s gonna be sweet!

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#968 44 days ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

I’m getting close to getting my playfield swap finished!
I have a few gremlins I’m hunting down
1. The Vuks on the right side are not working. These consist of the pop bumpers, right sling, and lower right alien. Anybody got any ideas about where a common failure would hit these?
Other items I think I’m good on but still to do.
[quoted image]

The slingshots and pop bumpers all fall under Column 5 in the switch matrix. Worth following the Green-black wire starting from the left slingshot down the column to make sure everything is in the right spot, and make sure the diode is attached correctly to each switch (before replacing each diode).

#969 43 days ago
Quoted from Kevlar51:

The slingshots and pop bumpers all fall under Column 5 in the switch matrix. Worth following the Green-black wire starting from the left slingshot down the column to make sure everything is in the right spot, and make sure the diode is attached correctly to each switch (before replacing each diode).

Found the cut wire. Thanks! Down to a bad opto switch and some bad lights. Might be up this weekend!

Thanks!

#970 41 days ago

Miniature Martian. Started making some miniatures. Originally was just making a few for myself then lots of folks started asking for em. So they are up on my ETSY if you are interested.

https://www.etsy.com/shop/factoryoffun/

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#971 41 days ago

BOOM! Playfield swap is done. Plays faster than greased lightining. Got the mirror blades in, upgraded saucers, and new to me 8 year old Micro Playfield installed. Repainted the coin door, tumbled all topside parts. Combined with the existing cabinet wrap, color DMD, and LED job it's amazing.

Final steps are cable management (zip ties incoming) along with final switch adjustments (everything works).

Shoutouts to everyone on this sub who helped in the troubleshooting process... Kevlar51 gets 2!

Thanks all!

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#972 35 days ago

Hey All

Got an issue with AFM switch matrix

When switch 33 ‘T’ in MARTIAN it activates switch 43.. Ball Trough Opto 2..

I have checked the diode on the target, it appears good (5.6 one way)

Looked at the switches on same row... but can’t see dang thing like crossed wires/solider splash etc..

Read Marvins guide, and looked at the 7opto board..
it’s only 1 switch and so I don’t think it’s the board.. that would be an entire Row/coloum Out or acting funny??

Any advice would be appreciated

#973 35 days ago
Quoted from Pinhead1982:

Any advice would be appreciated

Switch wired wrong, diode on backwards. Could be any of your stand up targets or ramp switches.

LTG : )

#974 35 days ago

Hey Lloyd,

Any of the switches... not just the ones on the row/coloum?

#975 35 days ago
Quoted from Pinhead1982:

Any of the switches... not just the ones on the row/coloum?

I'd start on the same row or column, then the others.

LTG : )

#976 35 days ago
Quoted from Pinhead1982:

Any of the switches...

Be sure no connectors mixed up either.

LTG : )

#977 35 days ago

Should note that it is only when the ball trough is empty... when balls are in the tough the opto reads as closed and then on switch test only reads the ‘T’ when switch is pressed

Started a game and did multiball.. took the balls out and pressed the T switch.. game didn’t shut off or award anything random.. just the lite T animation..

#978 35 days ago

The best way i have found to track down switch matrix issues is to first grab a copy of the switch matrix. I usually print a copy of it since i am going to mark it up. Then i go into switch test and check every switch and circle anyone that doesn’t behave the way it should. Wrong switches showing or multiple switches registering. Here it is important to keep track of your balls (pinballs in this case). Each one of those is activating a switch somewhere, most commonly the trough switches but could also be a physical ball lock. So mark all those down on the matrix too.

Now you can draw boxes around the switches you noted. Sometimes it is easy to identify the corners. Other times you can form more than one box. Your issue will be found in one of the corners of the box(es).

This narrows down where you need to look. Bad diodes will look good to the eye, and you need to pull one leg to test properly with a DMM. So this trick helps me get to the root of my issue quicker.

Bad diode, switch terminals bend over and shorting could be the issue. Recently i had a friend over and he noticed he was getting progress on the right ramp when he was hitting the left orbit. I never noticed it. So i did the trick above, then looked at the 4 switches i suspected. Noticed that the drop target under the mothership looked odd. There was a wire attached to the banded end of the diode which should not be. So i moved it to the correct terminal and bingo it was back to normal. I later found out that that wire broke off during a temp trade and must of got soldered onto the wrong terminal.

#979 35 days ago

completist ltg thanks for the help.

It may well be switch 43 as there looks to be a wire.. (white/orange) soldiered to the switch lug on the banded side of the diode.. looked at all the others and they are not..

This was like this when I got the game

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#980 35 days ago
Quoted from Pinhead1982:

It may well be switch 43 as there looks to be a wire.. (white/orange) soldiered to the switch lug on the banded side of the diode.. looked at all the others and they are not..

This was like this when I got the game

White wire and what ever color stripe always goes to the black end of the diode.

LTG : )

#981 35 days ago

Will change it over tomorrow.. is 12midnight here.. it’s been driving me nuts!

#982 32 days ago

Added 2 post lights, a backstrip light. And a trough light. Bright lights make a difference.

Flipper fixes are next!

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#983 29 days ago

Time to open up the outlanes!

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#984 28 days ago

Well I just joined the club. A little sooner than expected but I'm happy nonetheless. Can't wait to get it all dialed in!!

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#985 28 days ago

I'm out of this club...
However she went to a great home where I know it will be well loved! See post above.
Plus I still get to play now and then

#986 28 days ago

Thought I would give AFM some love. Gloss Black hardware and coin box lid..

Can you guess what games the other 3 colours are for!?

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#987 27 days ago
Quoted from Pinhead1982:

Thought I would give AFM some love. Gloss Black hardware and coin box lid..
Can you guess what games the other 3 colours are for!?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Green - Creech
Red - MM
Blue - not sure ... wrong blue for few games I have

#988 27 days ago

Green- scared stiff
Red- acdc
Blue- whitewater

#989 27 days ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

Green- scared stiff
Red- acdc
Blue- whitewater

Yep hadn't though of Whitewater , that'd work nice call. I was originally thinking T2 but it's a much lighter blue

#990 26 days ago

RED - WONKA CE
BLUE - DIALLED IN LE
GREEN - GHOSTBUSTERS LE

#991 25 days ago

FINALLY joined the AFM club today!

#992 25 days ago
Quoted from gunstarhero:

FINALLY joined the AFM club today!

Let’s see some pics!

#993 25 days ago

Just following up with the ball hangup issue I was having under the mothership. I currently have a Mantis amusements trough installed, and I also have an original. The mantis’s “pocket” behind the switch is larger than on the original, so the ball gets stuck behind the switch.

Solution was really simple: flatten the switch out, and spread it back towards that pocket. It took a bit of trial and error, but eventually I was able to get it so that the weight of the ball will always push the switch down regardless of positioning. Seems to work just great, and I recommend it if anyone else experiences the same problem.

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#994 24 days ago

Agggghhhhh. Ball 3. Extra ball lit, martian multiball lit, 2 balls locked, 1 shot from total anhilation.

Game is much more fun with outlanes fully open and pitched to 7.5.

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#995 24 days ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

Let’s see some pics!

41BF7980-7CEA-47E4-AB86-E1BA34911523 (resized).jpeg

It’s a collab with a local pin-bro and is in his garage right now!

Came with some nice mods; Gen 1 Bill Ung saucer mod, translucent backboard, ColorDMD, LEDs and misc lighting mods too. Got new cab art coming soon!

#996 24 days ago

Anyone is getting hissing from left speaker when putting in a color dmd?

I thought they released a patch for this years ago?

Or maybe it's something wrong on my game?

Thanks

#997 24 days ago
Quoted from Shapeshifter:

Anyone is getting hissing from left speaker when putting in a color dmd?
I thought they released a patch for this years ago?
Or maybe it's something wrong on my game?
Thanks

I bet you a nickel if you move the spot the dmd is grounded to it will stop.

#998 24 days ago

Hey big spender, easy on the betting

#999 24 days ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

I bet you a nickel if you move the spot the dmd is grounded to it will stop.

I just looked at instructions again and see there is a specific spot for the ground cable.

I will put it back in tomorrow and see if it makes any difference!

Thanks

#1000 23 days ago

Absolutely loving this pin!

The wife said it can never be sold. Fine by me
IMG_20200928_1613041.jpg

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