https://gozmod.gozzled.com

Superb mod.

Thanks all! Still working it.

I'm leaning away from it being a board issue as well after taking them off and doing a visual inspection. However, it occurs to me I havn't checked exactly what you are suggesting just yet.

Looks awesome, but the coin door switches are not working either. Will investigate further if can eventually make it to switch test.

I think the next thing for me to do when I get in front of the machine is unlug J206 and J208 as suggested by Completist. If F106 doesn't blow, I'll now it is for sure not the board, and a short somewhere down of the field (ugh).

I only had time to put it back together this morning and upon power up my GI is super dim now too, this leads me to further believe there is either a short, or I just messed something else up even worse.

Thanks all for your help!

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SantaEatsCheese

If you are blowing F106 look at this picture from WPC 95 schematic. You should pull J101 which unfortunately provides logic +5 as well as +12 to CPU and AV board so it won’t boot. But you will know if short is on the Power Driver. If it doesn’t blow short is on CPU or AV or in the wiring. That circuit doesn’t go anywhere else if the schematic is correct. BTW you can see the +5 comes from F105 but goes to CPU through J101 so F106 not working impacts +12V only which could be the original message

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I think you're using WPC-89 Schematics. AFM is WPC-95

SantaEatsCheese

Here's more diagnostics: http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wpc/index2.htm
Search for: "Check Fuse F114/F115" (or F106/F101) Message.

This indicates the voltage is out for the lamp/switch matrix. Sometimes this message is gotten even when the fuses are good!

A failing bridge (or diodes) can cause the game to think their respective fuses are bad. If the fuse F114 (or F106 on WPC-95) is actually blown, usually this is an indication that BR1 (or diodes D11-D14 on WPC-95) usually failed. But it could be as simple as a cracked solder pad on power driver board's BR1 (or diodes D11-D14 on WPC-95). See the above about jumper wires, and install those for good reliability. The shotgun method can also be used, replacing BR1 (and BR2, both for WPC-S and prior, while you are at it!) on the power driver board, in addition to the jumper wires.
...

It goes on to provide step by step tests. But replacing fat diodes D11-D14 might be a good start. Also consider the jumpers they refer to since your board is pulled.

Yes i think you are right! But now that i think about it i don’t think i own WPC-95 schematics. My set is a light blue cover which hist says WPC i think. I will have to correct that and source a -95 manual. I did notice some discrepancies between the schematics and the game manual and should of clued in. Sorry about that! I try to only give advice if i know its good advice...

These are awesome resources! Thanks All!
I’m going to check the easy stuff under first thing to check first. I wasn’t unplugging as much as I should have during my tests. Hopefully this will help identify the problem. I’ll report results .
The second set of things to check looks more involved and I’ll have to watch some multimeter youtube videos before trying.
----------------------------
First Thing To Check:
Lamp Matrix Fuse Keeps Failing (F106 on WPC-95).
If the lamp matrix 18 volt fuse keeps blowing (F106 on WPC-95), isolate the lamp matrix power from the rest of the game. This will determine if there is just a simple short or bad diode on the playfield, or if there is a bad rectifying bridge or diode on the power driver board.
On WPC-95, remove connectors J121-J126. Replace the blown fuse, and power the game on. If the fuse blows, the problem is probably a bad diode D11-D14 (WPC-95). See the Game Resets (Bridge Rectifiers, Diodes and Caps) section of this document for testing or replacement.
If the fuse does not blow with the game powered on, replace the removed connectors one at a time. When the fuse blows, you have issolated the problem to the connector just installed. Most likely there is a playfield lamp socket shorted. Or if new bulbs were just installed, there may be a new bulb that is shorted (yes this does happen). Either way, the wires from the connector just installed can be traced, and the short located.
------------------------------
Second Thing To Check:
"Check Fuse F106/F101 Message”.
Here is a step-by-step test to see exactly what is causing the F114/F115 (or F106/F101) error message. With the game on and the coin door closed:
Test for AC voltage at J129 pins 4 and 7 on WPC-95. A reading of 13 to 18 volts AC should be seen. This is the AC voltage coming from the transformer. If no voltage here, check the Molex connectors around the transformer and at the power driver board.
Test for DC voltage at TP102 on WPC-95 and ground. A reading of 16 to 18 volts DC should be seen. If no voltage here, replace D11 to D14 on WPC-95. Also no voltage here can occur because the solder pads are cracked around bridge or D11 to D14 on WPC-95. Using jumper wires for BR1 (as described in the Game Resets section) helps prevent this.
Test for DC voltage at or TP100 on WPC-95 and ground. A reading of 12 volts DC should be seen. If no voltage here, check or replace diodes D1 and D2 (1N4004, all WPC version).
If diodes D1/D2 are OK, replace Q2 (all WPC versions), a LM7812 voltage regulator.
If the above still does not fix the problem, replace U20 (all WPC versions) on the CPU board (ULN2803). If U20 died "hard", it could also blow the 74LS374 at U14 (on WPC-95 it's U23, a 74HC237) on the CPU board.
If the above still does not fix the problem, and the game has an under-the-playfield optic board, replace the LM339 chips on this board. Replace them all, and use sockets.
If voltage is still not right, or or diodes D11 to D14 on WPC-95 are REALLY hot, check all the TIP107 transistors on the power driver board. If these test good, check/replace the power driver board's ULN2803 at or U11 on WPC-95, or maybe the power driver board's 74LS374 at U10 on WPC-95.

How do I test these? I need to learn to use a multimeter. I think I've narrowed it down to the board. When J121-J126 (the light outputs) are unplugged along with J205, J212, J206, J207, J208, J209 (the switch inputs) it still blows F106 instantly on power up. I replaced U20 for good measure as I had a spare to no effect. Articles referenced above point to D11 to D14. I might see some corosion on D11 and D14 but can't tell for sure. Can someone explain how exactly to test these? I have a multimeter but can't figure out what to do other than a tonal test, which is inconstant. Also. Using a cheapo LED and battery test, all these D chips have continuity with almost everything else on the board to include each other. Is that a grounding issue? I feel much better now that I feel that things are getting narrowed down. Thank you all for your help.

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Diode Test setting - residing in area C.

Also the setting you will use to test a bridge rectifier (which is an arrangement of 4 diodes).

Diodes often have to be removed from circuit (one leg removed) to test properly. Its an easy test - but probably best described by someone on youtube. Basically with your leads in one direction you will get a reading of 0.4-0.6 volts, and swapping the leads you should get no reading (OL). Current should flow in one direction, and not the other. Think of it as a check valve for electricity. If you get a voltage drop in both directions it is bad, or if it shorted it is bad.

Bridge rectifiers are tested similarly. Identify which leg is the (+), (-) and the two AC legs.

- black lead on the positive leg. Should see 0.4 to 0.6 on both the AC legs
- red lead on negative leg. Should see same in both the AC legs.

If you find a short - its bad. But good news you found a problem

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Phew! Was just hidden under a stack of other stuff.

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Thanks so much all. I tested the U1-U22 diodes this morning on the board with the power off and to the best of my abilities, I think U12 & U14 are toast for sure, and possibly U20/U22 (although unrelated to this). I think the plan is to order some new diodes, install them (U12/U14 only first), and see how that works. Thanks again so much for all the help!

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I think your black lead be plugged into the com port for diode testing.

Those readings don't sound correct - did you have the red test lead in the VΩmA terminal and the black test lead in the COM terminal? Below is from the manual for your multimeter on how to do a diode test

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Testing conducted like this. Readings for black on left red on right same as above, exact ranges between 480 and 520, red on left black on right between 900 and 1450. D 12 and 14 still show tones.

Please let me know if there is anything wrong with the way I am testing as awkwardly photographed below.

Really appreciate the help guys. I ordered some diodes that should be here tomorrow so should be able to switch out D12 and D14 this weekend unless something else is wrong.

Thanks!

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You may need to remove one end of the diode from the board to test the diode, as you may be getting a false reading (see Completist post below). Do you have a spare diode that you can test with your multimeter to check that it gives a reading of 0.4-0.6 volts (just to confirm your multimeter works as we expect)?

It lives! Thank you guys so much! D12 was bad, and D14 may or may not have been bad but I replaced it anyways. Behold! My Amazing Soldering Skills! Attack From Mars is now 100%! I'm going back and fixing up the last touch ups of the playfield and call her done. Hopefully the glass goes back on Attack from Mars this weekend.

Thanks!

Thanks!

Thanks!

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Whew, that soldering isn't pretty, but if it works, that's what counts!

Hi All

Got a Pinbits shaker motor (second hand)

It has the shaker, power board and wire harness.. but I’m not sure if it is all there..

Could a AFM owner with shaker take some pictures and show where the harness connects into please..

Thanks

I have the Pinbits shaker as well. I will take some pictures and post them here.

Thanks, Appreciate it..

Pinbits shaker in Original AFM.

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Hey jbovenzi

Could I get pictures of the connector to the 3bank target... is it a connector or soldiered

Under the playfield.

I got the shaker motor, board and a wire harness that plugs into the board and then plugs into a square 4 pin connector which has 3 wires - red, purple, and grey...

Is that right..

Painting my ships. In the middle of a second refresh taking things too far. More to come.

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If you are talking about the center 3 Bank Target, it is a connector (that plugs into another connector).

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Hi,

Back for another shot at help..... My upper G.I. is still out on AFM.

But your last round of advice did help! Fuse F112 is blowing... so I pulled all G.I sockets, visually inspected and they look ok. I also tested all the LED bulbs with a 9 volt battery outside of the machine and they all work everything was ok. Machine plays just no upper G.I.

The upper G.I. Seems to be all yellow wire.... I did notice that on one of the G.I bulbs, there is an orange wire as well... but it is only attached to one of the G.I sockets the rest are all yellow.

I'm stuck, what else could be blowing the fuse ? What does it look like if a socket is shorted ?

I guess I could put a fuse in, pull J106, turn on machine, turn off machine and recheck that fuse just to make sure it is something coming off off J106 ?

Any help much appreciated.

Jim

Where does the orange wire go? Any chance you could post a pic, so we can compare to our machines (maybe a close up pic and one showing it's specific location under the PF)?

A socket could be shorted if it’s touching another piece of metal hardware. Check to make sure that none of the sockets are making contact.

Hi Manny65 and hlaj78.. let me take some pictures...that once socket where the orange wires look like it was probably factory... but let me take a snap and post it.... I have looked across those sockets so many times.... and actually pulled every socket from the bottom of the playfield to change the bulbs, but clearly I am missing something

Hi, quick update... that orange wire I mentioned is ok, it is probably part of the Middle G.I string... that bulb goes on as it should so please ignore the organge wire comment.

Looks like the main thicker wires coming from plug J106 are solid yellow and solid white that go to the upper G.I. string that is out.

all right... Just realized what I have not looked at.... POP bumpers..... I think they are on the same G.I string... Any suggestions on how to examine those.... I think one of them I can look at from the top of the playfield, but the other two involve removing ramps and stuff... are they easy to take out from the bottom ?

No they are not completely bottom accessible. To remove the pop bumpers completely you need access from the top, would start by pulling the caps and see if you have a frayed wire , also a visual from the bottom where the metal leads come from the pops

Does anyone have an issue with ball hang ups in the scoop/trough beneath the mothership? I have a mantis trough replacement in there, and it seems like the ball all too often gets stuck between the switch and the front part of the trough. I adjusted the switch so it’s less aggressively stanced, but now only the most direct shots register, and balls still get jammed... thoughts?

When I did a playfield swap on mine I also installed a Mantis protector there. It was years ago and I can't find my pics. I could not seem to get everything to line up correctly. I even emailed Mantis asking about the correct way to install. I wish I could remember the details but it was years ago. I finally figured out a way to make it work and I get no ball sticks there at all. I might be able to get you a picture later today. Good luck, it can be made to work!

Mama mia! I can't figure out how to replace this bulb socket for a small saucer. How do you get it off, do you have to drill (those two small metal tabs)? Right now it only lights up two squares (I made sure it's not the bulb) and I already tried re-soldering. Absolute beginner on this type.

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Drill out the rivets , replace with rivet gun or rivet kit.
Can also use small screws

Would check all wires first ,and perhaps a incandescent 906, also pull the bulb you may not be getting good contact.
Check the metal tabs which hold the bulb

The metal clips inside the socket. The red arrows point to them. Slip a jewelers screwdriver between the grey plastic socket body and the clip ( see yellow arrows ) and bend those clips closer together so they grip the bulb base better.

In your picture, you can se they are gaped too wide apart.

LTG : )

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Hmm, I'm not enthusiastic about drilling rivets. Tried a couple different bulbs (and messing with the wires). Guess I'll re-solder and see if I get lucky.

Thanks, I took a screwdriver and pushed those tabs together, but no joy.

Yes they are

Sigh...

Long story short I just installed an overlay on my AFM. The material is fantastic, installation is okay,

1. Got original AFM, had SOL damage.
2. Fixed up SOL with laminated decals, touched up, looked great!
3. Used rest of laminated decals on rest of inserts.
4. Laminated decals everywhere made playfield uneven, and unfun.
5. Removed insert decals... took up half of inserts and some playfield art despite best efforts.
6. Decided to just sand down and do an overlay.
7. Did just that... received overlay not perfect as shown in detailed photos below (zoom in to see).

Knowing what I know now, I would use waterslide decals (non laminated) and if I didn't want to clear, just add a playflied protector on top.

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Sorry to hear this. But unfortunately those overlays are garbage. Your only option last are replacement PF’s or the hardtops (not sure if they make a hardtop of this game).

The PPS laminated decals are disappointing to say the least:

1. They are too big because they are based on the playfield graphic and not the portion that goes in the insert. I had to trim mine with an X-acto knife to get it to fit. It's not a particularly easy thing to do either since you're trimming both the sticker and the paper it's stuck on. But on the bright side, a trimmed sticker will fit on the insert pretty well level with the playfield.

2. For AFM, the typeface they used for the text isn't correct. They just found something close and slapped it on there--"return to battle" looks awful.

I had very similar SOL damage on mine, with ugly mylar covering the whole PF. I pulled the mylar with dust cleaner to freeze, but still lost a few insert laminates--a couple simply popped up with the mylar as i was freezing it. Wherever possible, I used waterslide decals. They aren't perfect--they aren't as opaque as the originals (I tried to double-up, but found that to be more trouble that it was worth) and they don't have the "frosted" look like the rest.

Unfortunately, two of my lost inserts--"Super Jackpot" and "5-Way Combo" mission lights, have white lettering. There's no cost effective way to get white lettering (or very light gray lettering) that works on these. So I had to buy the PPS decals (and that's when I got frustrated with 1 and 2 above).

But all in all--I'm MUCH happier with the mylar off. For insert filling, I wholeheartedly recommend Solarez thin-hard fly-tie resin. Put the waterslide decal on the insert, pour the resin in, cover with clear transparency film, roll something cylindrical over it to ensure it's level, wipe the excess away, then shine it with a UV blacklight flashlight (follow resin directions). In less than a minute, you can peel the transparency away and you've got a nice hard clear surface.

Has anyone bought a Mirco AFM playfield recently.. wondering what sort of quality he is pumping out recently

I'm picking this playfield up from a local pinsider after work today (Thanks Kevlar!). Looks good from the photos.

Gonna try the playfield swap now that I'm already in deep.

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Yup--this is an earlier run playfield though; it won't be able to answer @pinhead1982's question on current mirco quality

SantaEatsCheese Kevlar51

Yes it is. A first run - look at the COW RAMP Jackpot insert art.. notice anything different about it..

I was actually the one who pointed it out to Mirco some years ago, it was corrected on later runs

What I'm I missing?
Please

Second jackpot circle from the right is missing a black “keystone” shaped section of paint below it.

Yeah, it’s nothing major..

The clear on the first runs were thin, check edges of SOL hole, and look around ball guide holes, put washers in there to spread the load..

I did an AFM restore with a first run and the clear cracked after around 4 weeks... put this playfield has had 7+yrs to cure

Picked this baby up last night.

I've got the SOL cliffy's and have a full playfield protector on it's way I had got in preparation for the overlay and will probably put that down as well. I'm going to do my best to keep this one minty while playing the crap out of it...

I also picked up a bunch of small nylon washers in preparation for the overlay so I can definitely spread that load out.

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