(Topic ID: 86826)

Attack from Mars [AFM] - martians club


By OlDirty

6 years ago



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  • 917 posts
  • 208 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 17 hours ago by LOTR_breath
  • Topic is favorited by 126 Pinsiders

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There are 917 posts in this topic. You are on page 18 of 19.
#851 39 days ago

I'll try a single item.

LTG : )

ebay.com link » Nos New Pinbot Jack Bot Moving Target Assy Complete Found On Distributor Shelf

#852 39 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

I'll try a single item.

LTG : )

That worked. For one item. Then check sellers other items.

LTG : )

#853 36 days ago

My flashers have all stopped working (gameplay or test mode). Fuse F107 tests fine. Any thoughts on where I should start looking? Thanks!

#854 36 days ago
Quoted from Kevlar51:

Fuse F107 tests fine.

Just to be sure. Pull and check with a meter.

LTG : )

#855 36 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Just to be sure. Pull and check with a meter.
LTG : )

Yup that’s what i did

#856 36 days ago
Quoted from Kevlar51:

Any thoughts on where I should start looking?

20 volt test point od driver board. Could have an open fat diode.

LTG : )

#857 35 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

20 volt test point od driver board. Could have an open fat diode.
LTG : )

I’ve got to cut the diode off to test though right?

#858 35 days ago
Quoted from Kevlar51:

I’ve got to cut the diode off to test though right?

I wouldn't do that. Do you have 20 volts on the 20 volt test point ?

LTG : )

#859 35 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

I wouldn't do that. Do you have 20 volts on the 20 volt test point ?
LTG : )

i do not--reads at .7 (dmm set to 20) and the 20v LED is not lit

#860 35 days ago
Quoted from Kevlar51:

i do not--reads at .7 (dmm set to 20) and the 20v LED is not lit

There are four of those fat diodes for it. I'd check with a meter first to see if one reads different from the others. After that you'd need to lift one leg to get a more accurate reading if you don't find anything obvious.

LTG : )

#861 35 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

There are four of those fat diodes for it. I'd check with a meter first to see if one reads different from the others. After that you'd need to lift one leg to get a more accurate reading if you don't find anything obvious.
LTG : )

Thanks—I didn’t see anything obvious on D15-D18, they all had similar readings. Oddly enough though, D7, D8 and D10 did each have open readings each way. Could that be a contributor?

Keep in mind this is with all the diodes still in the circuit.

#862 35 days ago
Quoted from Kevlar51:

Keep in mind this is with all the diodes still in the circuit.

If you are good with circuit board repairs. I'd just replace all four. Lifting one leg of each you are half way there.

LTG : )

#863 35 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

If you are good with circuit board repairs. I'd just replace all four. Lifting one leg of each you are half way there.
LTG : )

Good? No. But probably better than some of the mess that’s on this board already. It’s been a couple years since I’ve soldered a board, but diodes hopefully won’t give me too much issue, and I have a desoldering gun that I’m borrowing from a friend.

#864 35 days ago

D15-D18 are your diodes for the flashlamp circuit. They form a bridge rectifier. Check for AC voltage between J128 pins 3 or 4 and J128 pins 1 or 2. If that is good, now check for DC voltage at the 20v test point. Similarly you could check between any of the red/white wires going to a flasher and ground braid.

If you have AC going into the bridge and no DC coming out of the bridge, it's most likely a failed power diode(P600D). Although there are a couple other things in that circuit like a resistor, a capacitor, and J133.

If you have no AC going into the bridge, double check F107 and the fuse holder and connector and pins of J128.

#865 35 days ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

D15-D18 are your diodes for the flashlamp circuit. They form a bridge rectifier. Check for AC voltage between J128 pins 3 or 4 and J128 pins 1 or 2. If that is good, now check for DC voltage at the 20v test point. Similarly you could check between any of the red/white wires going to a flasher and ground braid.
If you have AC going into the bridge and no DC coming out of the bridge, it's most likely a failed power diode(P600D). Although there are a couple other things in that circuit like a resistor, a capacitor, and J133.
If you have no AC going into the bridge, double check F107 and the fuse holder and connector and pins of J128.

I'm getting voltage at Pins 2 and 4. Sorry, but how to I check whether AC is going into the bridge? (I'm learning these things as issues pop up).
But I've got no DC voltage at the 20v test point and the LED is not lit.

Thanks

#866 35 days ago
Quoted from Kevlar51:

I'm getting voltage at Pins 2 and 4. Sorry, but how to I check whether AC is going into the bridge? (I'm learning these things as issues pop up).
But I've got no DC voltage at the 20v test point and the LED is not lit.
Thanks

Just put your meter on AC voltage and put one lead on pin 4 and one lead on pin 2. Should read roughly around 16VAC. This is coming directly off the transformer and through fuse F107.

#867 35 days ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

Just put your meter on AC voltage and put one lead on pin 4 and one lead on pin 2. Should read roughly around 16VAC. This is coming directly off the transformer and through fuse F107.

Sorry—I misspoke, it’s pins 1 and 3 on J128. AC between those two came up as .6 (lowest AC my AstroAI DMM has is 200)

#868 35 days ago

This diagram may help. That voltage comes from the transformer. It's extremely rare to have a problem with a transformer. Try(with power off obviously) unplugging and re-plugging the large block shaped connectors in the bottom of the cabinet that connect the transformer to the rest of the game.

afm flasher circuit (resized).JPG
#869 34 days ago

Well good news is my flashers now work! Turns out a plug had popped off of the COM 1 slot on my coin door switch. Slid it back on and all is well again. But it doesn't slide on firmly, unfortunately--the connector sort of "rests" inside it. Not sure what the solution is there. Crimp it with pliers?

Thanks very much for the help everyone!

#870 34 days ago
Quoted from Kevlar51:

Not sure what the solution is there. Crimp it with pliers?

If you can't make it tighter. Hot Glue.

LTG : )

#871 33 days ago

Is the translight supposed to be clear around the AFM letters?
Doesn't seem right to be able to see the Bulbs?

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#872 33 days ago
Quoted from transprtr4u:

Is the translight supposed to be clear around the AFM letters?
Doesn't seem right to be able to see the Bulbs?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Yes it is, one of the things that first caught my attention about the game. Afm and dirty Harry. My game is all LEDs except behind that area because it looks so cool!

#873 32 days ago

When do the playfield flashers light in AFM (Center arrow, Jets, right and left martians)? They test fine in the test menu but I have no recollection of seeing them blink during a game. And I don't think they function during attract mode, right?

EDIT: never mind. They flash when you do good stuff. I just suck.

#874 27 days ago

I'm looking at a few trade packages right now and someone has an original AFM with a redone cabinet (looks nice), clean boards, and everything looks pretty nice except the playfield. I am thinking I could do some touchup paint around this to make it look decent and throw some Mylar on top, but wasn't sure if there were any overlays for these like they have on Addams Family and a few other popular machines. Is this beyond help?

I'm thinking the cheap way would be cliffy's on teh scoop and touch up paint followed by mylar. Any other options beyond the full playfield swap?

IMG_5782 (resized).jpeg
#875 27 days ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

I'm looking at a few trade packages right now and someone has an original AFM with a redone cabinet (looks nice), clean boards, and everything looks pretty nice except the playfield. I am thinking I could do some touchup paint around this to make it look decent and throw some Mylar on top, but wasn't sure if there were any overlays for these like they have on Addams Family and a few other popular machines. Is this beyond help?
I'm thinking the cheap way would be cliffy's on teh scoop and touch up paint followed by mylar. Any other options beyond the full playfield swap?
[quoted image]

I would get a new playfield, play the hell out of the the one you have and do the swap down the road. I'm sure you will enjoy yours as much as I enjoy mine!

#876 27 days ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

I'm looking at a few trade packages right now and someone has an original AFM with a redone cabinet (looks nice), clean boards, and everything looks pretty nice except the playfield. I am thinking I could do some touchup paint around this to make it look decent and throw some Mylar on top, but wasn't sure if there were any overlays for these like they have on Addams Family and a few other popular machines. Is this beyond help?
I'm thinking the cheap way would be cliffy's on teh scoop and touch up paint followed by mylar. Any other options beyond the full playfield swap?
[quoted image]

My AFM has similar wear. A previous owner slapped Mylar on top and an imitation cliffy in the scoop.

The Mylar isn’t pretty but plays great. I’d like to replace the cliffy though because it’s bending up in places (specifically the back) and it will halt a slow ball.

My purchase came with an extra Mirco playfield that I’m waffling about installing. Send me a PM if you’re interested in it.

#877 26 days ago
Quoted from Kevlar51:

My AFM has similar wear. A previous owner slapped Mylar on top and an imitation cliffy in the scoop.
The Mylar isn’t pretty but plays great. I’d like to replace the cliffy though because it’s bending up in places (specifically the back) and it will halt a slow ball.
My purchase came with an extra Mirco playfield that I’m waffling about installing. Send me a PM if you’re interested in it.

With Cliffy's or any of the thin metal protectors, it is best that a worn scoop hole to be refilled back to the original size & shape otherwise the ball will simply dent and bend the cliffy to the shape of the worn hole and cause issues such as rejecting shots and stopping the ball coming out of the pops as you describe.

1 week later
#878 20 days ago

I am happily in the AFM club now and am attempting a repair on the playfield. So far, it is turning out "good enough". I've got some waterslide decals to fix the inserts by the scoop and then will top off with a small section of mylar. It wont' be CQ, but it is going from players to players + in the time I have it. It already has a great cabinet wrap and color DMD. The only other non-playfield fixes needed are some repairs to the pop bumpers which I have on order.

It's not fair! I got to "rule the universe" for the first time and my left flipper mounting bracket fell out... during the mode! I'll beat you sometime game!

Just slowly building up and leveling up the area by the scoop between games.

Glad to be back in the club!
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#879 18 days ago

decals under mylar now. Before and after. Not as good as a new playfield, but way better than it was. Am going to do this to the 3 bank then leave all else alone with inserts. Pretty happy.15952913183992613838766732829097 (resized).jpg

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#880 17 days ago

Time to open up the in lanes! 20200721_195006 (resized).jpg

#881 14 days ago

I never understood how much work a real top side teardown was until now...

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#882 14 days ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

I never understood how much work a real top side teardown was until now...

Don't forget where the small metal piece goes above the ramp in the upper left corner.

LTG : )

#883 8 days ago

I have a never used eat at Eddys building mod by mezel forsale. I placed a ad. $115

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#884 8 days ago

Mod is sold pending payment

#885 7 days ago

Sigh... where does this go. Almost done!

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#886 7 days ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Sigh... where does this go. Almost done!

Back of the lobster ramp there are 2 ball trap pieces on the ramp

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#887 7 days ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Sigh... where does this go. Almost done!

Top left corner above the ramp. Screw holds it in, little thing hanging down goes in a small hole.

LTG : )

#888 5 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Don't forget where the small metal piece goes above the ramp in the upper left corner.
LTG : )

Quoted from LTG:

Top left corner above the ramp. Screw holds it in, little thing hanging down goes in a small hole.
LTG : )

... It's like you knew this would happen.

I have a new problem. Played a few games after all back together and have been reworking decals on playfield topside. Have not lifted playfield since successful test games. Turned on this morning, heard 3 dings, came back to this message, the gate going up and down repeatedly, and 3 balls in the trough. I have not gotten to test much other than verifying fuse 106 is blown. Replaced it. Fuse blown again. Fuse 101 passes physical inspection but will check with multimeter. Will also check fuse 109 per manual when I get home. Where would you guys begin troubleshooting.

Symptoms.png
#889 5 days ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

I have a new problem.

A good test it to try and figure out if the new problem is on the board or playfield/cabinet. So disconnect the relevant connectors suggested and see if the fuse still blows. If it blows its on the power driver. If it doesn't, it is on the playfield (or cabinet).

If it doesn't blow, then add each connector back until it blows. It can eat up a lot of fuses, so since you were doing work on the play field concentrate on those connectors first.

#890 4 days ago
Quoted from KJL:

A good test it to try and figure out if the new problem is on the board or playfield/cabinet. So disconnect the relevant connectors suggested and see if the fuse still blows. If it blows its on the power driver. If it doesn't, it is on the playfield (or cabinet).
If it doesn't blow, then add each connector back until it blows. It can eat up a lot of fuses, so since you were doing work on the play field concentrate on those connectors first.

Okay,

Getting mixed results here. If I replace F106 and turn on the machine, the insert lights briefly come on and then wig out. I get a "Gnd. short row 1 is stuck closed error" as seen below. It then goes to the regular game menu. Pressing enter for the test report does nothing. If I reset the power again without changing the fuse I get the check fuses 106 and 101 message. If I reset the game with a new fuse in but the lamp plugs unplugged (J121, 124, and 125) the same thing happens. Ideas? I have tried unplugging J208 and get the same result. Does this mean the short is on the board, or should I be looking for an error in the first row of the switch matrix (Launch button, Slam Tilt, Trough Eject, etc.). Thanks!

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#891 4 days ago

I’m sure you have already but have a real close look at all the lamps and switches for any terminals that are bent over and shorting on something. Its just strange that the game worked before you tore it down but now its acting up.

Are you saying that if you unplug all the connectors (rows and column drivers) for both the lamp and switch matrices you are still getting errors? You would have to pull the driver board to test the BR’s the easy way. Though im sure some smart folk on here could test them off other components / header pins while in game. I’m a pull the board and flip it over kinda guy lol.

When i see the F114/F115 issue i suspect a shorted BR1. But your issue is with different fuses so it would be a different BR if it is in fact a board issue.

#892 4 days ago

Still looking at errors but am running out of spare fuses! I have conducted a visual inspection of all lamps and switches above and below, with an extra look at everything on row 1. No luck. I have reseated all connectors in the head. No luck. One thing I have noticed is that fuse 106 blows whether or not I have the insert lights plugged in or not... hmmm... Gonna think on this some more. Completist, are you suggesting removing the row and colum plugs from the bottom of the chipset on the left of the backboard and then trying a power cycle? I have not changed fuse 101 (spare hasn't arrived yet) but it passes the continuity check with a battery and LED.

All help appreciated folks.

#893 4 days ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Still looking at errors but am running out of spare fuses! I have conducted a visual inspection of all lamps and switches above and below, with an extra look at everything on row 1. No luck. I have reseated all connectors in the head. No luck. One thing I have noticed is that fuse 106 blows whether or not I have the insert lights plugged in or not... hmmm... Gonna think on this some more. Completist, are you suggesting removing the row and colum plugs from the bottom of the chipset on the left of the backboard and then trying a power cycle? I have not changed fuse 101 (spare hasn't arrived yet) but it passes the continuity check with a battery and LED.
All help appreciated folks.

Just a note on saving you going through a bunch of fuses, you can use a circuit breaker soldered with a blown fuse for this sort of troubleshooting

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=EM_Repair#Electrical_short_troubleshooting_Fuse_helper

Hope you track down the issue, following with interest

#894 3 days ago

Hi All

Rejoining the AFM club after about 5yrs!

Last machine had it all.. my new one not so much...

I would like to see the different colour Bill Ung Saucer & Expansion kits with different colours.. blue looks cool on the Expansion, but I can find a picture of them in the saucers..

What are people’s thoughts!?

Thanks

#895 3 days ago

In my game I have the blue LEDs with blue caps
However the running lights are red. They are easy to see even during bright daylight. Came with the game installed and I'm happy with the blue as there is a lot of red on the game already

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#896 3 days ago

When i picked up mine, i had a choice between 2 AFM’s. One with red and one green. I liked the green. I have jiggly martians with red led eyes (not installed yet) and i thought that would be a lot of red.

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#897 3 days ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Still looking at errors but am running out of spare fuses! I have conducted a visual inspection of all lamps and switches above and below, with an extra look at everything on row 1. No luck. I have reseated all connectors in the head. No luck. One thing I have noticed is that fuse 106 blows whether or not I have the insert lights plugged in or not... hmmm... Gonna think on this some more. Completist, are you suggesting removing the row and colum plugs from the bottom of the chipset on the left of the backboard and then trying a power cycle? I have not changed fuse 101 (spare hasn't arrived yet) but it passes the continuity check with a battery and LED.
All help appreciated folks.

I pulled out the WPC schematics and the game manual. Now i’m no pro here but i’m leaning away from issues with your bridge rectifiers since F106 are not directly connected to that fuse.

What i see is F106 is before J120. pin 11 if i’m reading it right is the hold side of the right flipper coil. Maybe i’m off track but i’d be inclined to hunt around the solenoids associated with J120.

Note: iphone wont let me rotate that pic. I am aware it is sideways lol
1F292F60-FECC-4330-BB78-D270F204157C (resized).jpeg8C598503-3789-4A34-A29A-C725F3E9895A (resized).jpeg

#898 3 days ago

Completist. Thank you. Will investigate more in the morning and go down that route. Thank you so much.

I just finished pulling my boards and conducting visual inspection. CPU board looks clean. Power Driver Board has got some scorch marks around one corner, but the flow looks in tact. The connector has been replaced in that area. However, this is on the exact opposite end of the board from where the F106 fuse is and is close to the GI. I am assuming these scorch marks are from electronics running hot when the GI was incandecent back in the day. Will re-install and try the Completist flipper EOS route next.

When this first happened I had.

1. Played a game successfully after installing a bit of mylar around the return to battle insert.
2. Installed new leg protectors.
3. Gone to bed (the problem?)

Thanks all! Pics for the curious.

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#899 3 days ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Okay,
Getting mixed results here. If I replace F106 and turn on the machine, the insert lights briefly come on and then wig out. I get a "Gnd. short row 1 is stuck closed error" as seen below. It then goes to the regular game menu. Pressing enter for the test report does nothing. If I reset the power again without changing the fuse I get the check fuses 106 and 101 message. If I reset the game with a new fuse in but the lamp plugs unplugged (J121, 124, and 125) the same thing happens. Ideas? I have tried unplugging J208 and get the same result. Does this mean the short is on the board, or should I be looking for an error in the first row of the switch matrix (Launch button, Slam Tilt, Trough Eject, etc.). Thanks!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Try this:

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Switch_Matrix_Problems

You should NOT get multiple switches tripping if you follow the directions in the above link. If you do, problem lies on the MPU board.

#900 3 days ago

Thanks for the saucer feedback..

Has anyone put the Pingrafix lighted art blades in their AFM? They also look the nuts!

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