Check with http://www.planetarypinball.com/ , you may have to contact them. Same part used in AFMR, so it might be available. Though the switches won't have diodes. You'd have to add them.

LTG : )

https://pu-parts.com/navi.php?qs=attack+from+mars

Quite a lot of stuff here. Ship from Germany.

Thanks for the links, i did some inquirys if they can source the parts needed , i need to take a dive in the deep removing the motor ass en target bank ass seems simple like disconnecting some cables and removing some screws...

Well i ordered the 3 target assembly and the motor assembly from planetary pinball and a service guy is going to help me out on adding diodes and replacing the connectors as the ones from planetarypinball seem for the AFMR

Question can anyone tell me the part number for the complete wire harness for the backbox lights? the cables with all the sockets on them and the cable that connects to the backbox thanks !

I don't believe there is a part number. And no way to order one anyway. You'd have to make it.

LTG : )

I am going to finally put artwork on my restore and actually found 2 sets of artwork for AFM in my stash. One has Phoenix arcade printed on the 2 cab pieces but nothing on the head and coindoor piece. I know I bought these from Darrin but not sure why the one piece doesn’t say Phoenix. The other says I bought from IPB and has a matching label in yellow on all 3 pieces. Anyone know where the piece I got from IPB came from or if the Phoenix set should be labeled on all 3 pieces? Thanks

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First to get a new insert panel which is nearly impossible

Check out High End Pins AFM prototype restore - wood swing out panel. Might be easier to make than a plastic tub.

LTG : )

Just saw this on ebay: ebay.com link: Attack From Mars Pinball FLYER 1995 Original NOS Bally Aliens Martians Art Sheet

Hi - I wanted to share these videos for people curious how I drew my Attack From Mars alternate Translite and Backglass. We've sold over half of the LE backglasses, and a ton of Translites. THANK YOU!!!
If you're interested in one, please check them out in my shop:
https://www.flylanddesigns.com/product-category/pinball-and-arcade-artwork/

Inking the linework Video:

Speed Coloring Video:

Fitted my Eddy’s the other day, the last thing to add unless I see something for a topper.

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Just finished my AFM restore, if anyone needs the old plastics and ramps let me know.

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Great looking machine!! Compliments

Red ramps make such a difference!

Funny you commented because I bought the red ramps years ago but it was a post like yours in this thread where I knew I had to go AFM red because they looked so great in your games.

Here is the history of the red ramps I bought. It appears to be 2012 when I bought them and they were leftovers from the safecracker run that everyone was asking for. https://groups.google.com/forum/#!searchin/rec.games.pinball/pinballinc$20AFM%7Csort:date/rec.games.pinball/Ua25jZv5HUM/punNSm147z4J

Interesting that this run only did 24 sets. Thanks @thor-nl

Hi everyone, just wanted to join the party. I've taken this quarantine time as an opportunity to re-acquaint myself with my 4 machines and give them some love. I have an original AFM I thought I'd share a few photos of here. Honestly I wasn't sure how I felt about the remake, if it took away from the value of these originals, but this machine is the one most people move to when they play. Other than the cliffy protector and Bill Ung Light Kit, it's stock. Pretty bad fade on the left side. Right side is sweet!

I have some LEDs coming in and intend to make this my first LED conversion game. Not sure if I will add any spots, will see how it looks in the dark with stock first.

I do have the stroke of luck and extra ball lights in the package I intend to install with my LED retrofit.

One issue I seem to have is that occasionally a pure shot into the mothership dead center will spit the ball back without registering the hit on the ship. Not sure if there's a known fix for that issue or not.

I'm hoping to save $150 on the LED OCD board but we will see how I deal with it. I'd rather put that towards a ColorDMD eventually.

I see folks talking about knowing if there game is a reimport, matching boards, etc, how do I find all that out? This was purchased from a prior collector about 15 years ago and has been in my home since.

Anyway will catch up on this thread and all your games, just wanted to say hello and join the martian club.

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Good luck moving forward, but those puny stiff Martians look pathetic....

Mickspinball.com

Man, those some UGLY martians!!!!

The label on the inside right hand side of the main cabinet has the machine name - on late model B/W machines (not sure whether AFM is in this group - not near my pin) after the name of the machine is the country which it was destined for. Alternatively if no country is listed, that label will state the voltage and Hertz it was originally set for from the factory, which can help narrow down where it was originally destined for. This label also has the machines serial number on it.

As for matching boards, if you open the backbox there’ll be a sticker on each board with the machines serial number. Sometimes you’ll find these different as a board has been replaced or sometimes the sticker has fell off or been removed

There is switch in the trough below the mothership that registers that shot. Mine took a lot of adjusting of the wire before it worked 100% with even the purest shots.

Hey, sweet. It's a USA machine, assuming that's a good thing. Made on May 2, 1996.

Thanks much for the tip on the trough switch, I will see if I can get that sucker dialed in this weekend when I install my SOL and EB LEDs.

While I'm down there, anyone tossed a trough light into their AFM and what color did you use? Was thinking maybe blue for my TZ, would an orange or red be too tacky? Maybe just warm white?

Any good tips for getting at the back right pop bumper? It's the only LED that was a challenge to get at in my retrofit. Man these LEDs look nice on this machine. Really brightens it up. Not a big deal but my OCD is bugging me about it. I started to go at the right ramp but it wasn't cooperating too well and playfield posts started coming up and I bailed. Boy they sure made that one pop bumper tough to get at.

Small open end wrench, or small vice grip. Grab the nut part of the metal post coming up through the plastic, then you can get the locknut off. And then at some point remove the plastic and screw the metal post part back in tight.

LTG : )

The wrench is a good idea. I was using a nut driver and it was turning the whole post along with the nut. So annoying.

Not sure how many people are on this thread but if anyone has their machine open and can post me a photo of the back side of the backbox to show the lighting pattern, I would appreciate. A lot of mine had broken tabs and the strings were not in holes, it's a little tough to determine the proper pattern for both the flashers and the yellow sockets (and which holes remain open). A photo would be a huge help to me in my LED conversion. I'll probably just tape down the sockets with busted tabs, shouldn't need to mess with this much back here once I'm done.

Go to page one and the third picture down on this forum you can see the back box and light pattern.

Here are some pics of the wire side I took when running down a short recently

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Absolutely amazing. Thanks so much. I did my LED swap today and got all excited to use your photos to route, only to determine only the small short yellow strand lighting. Opened the backbox and found a seriously burnt and mangled GI connector with cut and spliced cables leading to the braid for the backbox. Some pins just have a wire stub coming off them. Sigh. I have owned this machine forever and never noticed before (going from a player to a maintainer lately). The board looks okay but the connector is going to need totally rebuilt which is a skill I sadly do not have (though I have built CAT6 cables and punchdowns so not a total dunce I guess).

I'll likely have to call in the pros for this, my Whirlwind has had the back GI out for a while due to similar reason. Just kills me as I enjoy doing as much work myself as I can, but this type scares me as mistakes can be costly.

I took pictures but they'd probably make you guys cringe.

Alright, here it is. Welcome to my nightmare. I've never worked with connectors and wiring in the backbox before. I'm in over my head right? Stupid Williams/Bally GI.

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Bummer sorry to see that but very common especially the backbox. For the connector parts email Ed at Great Plains electronics for .156 pin and connectors and a crimper choice. I would get the male pins also as those are probably damaged. Get zero ohm resistors to replace the fat diodes right above the burned connectors in your picture. They removed these in later runs of the board cause they caused so much heat. Pinwiki has all the info you need to do this. However I don’t know if LEDs reduce the problem without replacing the male pins and diodes. Ping us with questions the hardest part of what I suggest is removing the board not the solder work

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If you need to know which color wire goes to which pin. Pinwiki has that info :

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#General_Illumination_Problems

And as KJL pointed out. Ed at Great Plains has tools and parts - https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/

LTG : )

Just finishing up my cabinet restoration. I used some alternate decals and I’m pretty happy with the results.

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Very nice result.

50 bill GC from Ash? A Dee's fan living in Perth.

Have had AFM for over ten years and not had anywhere near a score like that.

Yep there’s a couple of us Dee’s over here. Not many though. It’s hard following them in a house full of Eagles that’s for sure.
The GC score I set a last year but haven’t got near it again. Most good games around the 30 mark.

Good to see you're making to most of the lockdown period - nice job!

How'd you let the kids go for the Eagles??? Then again I guess they've seen 1-2 flags

Surprised there are Dees fans anywhere lol
As for the restoration, very impressive, where did the decals come from?

Very nice work!

Those PFs in your first pictures - are those new and ready to be installed? If so, do you mind me asking how you are hanging those on the walls without damaging them?

I really want to hang "ready to install" PFs on the wall to minimize storage. I really like that idea/look!

Appreciate any insights!

I like how you have shoes on in one picture. And bare feet in another.

Great looking cabinet for you AFM !

LTG : )

I tried to force them but it was hard when the losses outweighed the wins.

Stuzza from Aussie arcade did these.

These are all either old playfields that I replaced with another that I restored or they are about to be restored. I like to screw them flat after being restored and cleared to allow the clear to really harden. Usually a minimum of 6 months. Having two playfields means I can continue to play the game during this time.
I just screwed them to the wall through existing holes in the playfield.

Sorry. Bare foot in both pictures.

might as well get the alternate backglass…

I like it.

Really ? You got webbed feet or something ?

LTG : )

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Didn’t see that one. Thought you meant the ones in the reflection. I’m guessing that is the shoeless picture you’re referring to. The shorts are different too.

Backbox lighting behavior checkup here...It's possible that my backbox is already working properly, but before I rebuild the connector, I want to make sure anyway.

So I got all 3 of the pair strands (and the flashers) working and lighting up. When I first turn the game on all the strands light equally with the new Comet LEDs. Then once the game goes into attract mode 2 of the 3 strands seem to dim down to 50% or less brightness. They also seem to stay that way during the game (the shortest of the 3 pair strands in the backbox seems to stay at 100% but then may totally shut off during the flasher show at the end, for example).

Is this actually the normal behavior of the light strands in the backbox and I just never took it apart and noticed before? Or do I still have a potential wiring or power issue if these strands are dimming?

I do use the Bill Ung mini saucer kit but not the expansion, so my kit doesn't touch J105.

Appreciate any advice / info, at least I know what the supposed behavior is then when I start ripping stuff apart.

I'll reply to my own post and also if anyone else sees this.

So yes, the connector was to blame, a fresh connector brought the lights back. Wow! The backglass looks brighter than ever, funny that this has been bad for years and I never bothered to fix until I got the LEDs to swap in. Looks great.

Full disclosure, this was my first ever molex build, and I of course used a ramped connector and had the lip facing the wrong direction (towards the pin headers) so it's a tight fit but it works. I'll likely rebuild this when I remove the board to have the large capacitors replaced by a tech locally -- I am not brave enough to work on a PCB yet, my soldering skill has proven awful, I seem very good at melting solder and terrible at hardening solder on an actual connection point for some reason.

All that aside, the dimming lights had to be the burnt connector, and I'm sure the board needs some love as well. I'll get an NVRAM put on the other board at the same time, may as well pay for all the board work at once.

Anyway, little by little, getting somewhat better at caring for my machines. If nothing good comes out of the news lately, at least I can make my pins a little happier by giving them some much overdue care.

Just finished designing and printing my 3D AFM flipper toppers. I'm selling them for $20 (includes US shipping) per pair. As always, please PM me if interested in purchasing these or any of my mods.

All 4 colors are selectable by the buyer, and the green I used for the saucer in mine is UV reactive. I also have a UV reactive orange as pictured at bottom. While I have solid black, I opted for galaxy black (silver speckles) in my first run which look really good.

FYI, I realize these are very similar to some other toppers on the market. However, I've incorporated the design elements and process of my many other 3D printed toppers that I offer. I was making these for myself, regardless, and figured if anyone happens to like my version and wants to customize the colors to their liking then they now have the ability to do so.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/attack-from-mars-3d-printed-flipper-toppers#post-5590477
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Here are a few color combination ideas.
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I joined the club this weekend! Here's a composite backglass image others may enjoy for LED planning. I made a few of these images for some other popular WPC games in my "gameroom" thread, which also has pics of this particular game. My questions for the club:

1) My other games all have ColorDMD and I love it. Am I crazy or does this back-to-basics game not really need ColorDMD?

2) Is Bill's ufopinball.com mod as must-have as it seems?

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In my opinion:
Colordmd on AFM is my first and favorite. I have added it to many other games, but afm just looks terrific.
The ung mod is also awesome and adds a really cool effect.

Anyone had any luck sourcing a new Strobe board other than the Pinbits one? They are Sold out.

If you just need the xenon tube, I found one on Google.

https://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/attack-from-mars-strobe-xenon-flash-lamp.html

Maybe keep an eye on Ebay ?

LTG : )